The best looks from the Marc Jacobs and Moschino shows


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In the new topsy-turvy world of fashion, one side effect of the pandemic is that the once rigid diary of runway shows has seen the rule book thrown out of the window, freeing designers to show what they want, when they want.

Marc Jacobs

At Marc Jacobs' autumn/winter 2021, outlandish proportions and bold colours ruled. Courtesy Marc Jacobs
At Marc Jacobs' autumn/winter 2021, outlandish proportions and bold colours ruled. Courtesy Marc Jacobs

Marc Jacobs has just returned to the fashion runway for the first time in a year, showing his autumn/winter 2021 collection to a live audience in New York. Totally disjointed from the rest of the fashion schedule – as everyone else is busy unveiling menswear spring/summer 2022 – Jacobs gave us the wintery clothes he wanted us to see.

No doubt inspired by the almost primeval need to cocoon thanks to the pandemic, Jacobs presented not only clothes to wrap up in, but also to have fun with, bringing some much needed joy back into the world.

With supersized logos running down the arms and legs of models, Jacobs offered pieces that were either skintight or hugely oversized. Trousers came as skinny leggings ending in platform shoes, or as flares wide enough to swallow feet. Tops and jackets stopped short at the waist, or stretched past hips, while sleeves continued to a mid-point between wrist and floor.

Dresses and coats were fit to burst, padded with cosy down, and there were clashing patterns of pink and mulberry, while fluffy blanket stoles finished the looks, creating outlandish proportions reminiscent of the children's character Barbapapa.

Moschino

Moschino opted for the Americana cartoons and all-day-diners for its spring/summer 2022 menswear collection. Courtesy Moschino
Moschino opted for the Americana cartoons and all-day-diners for its spring/summer 2022 menswear collection. Courtesy Moschino

Meanwhile, at Moschino, designer Jeremy Scott was equally playful for spring/summer 2022, delivering a co-ed collection built around the Americana cartoons and all-day-diner food. Men came dressed in all manners of lime and pink, with cartoon stripped suits, shirts and coats, broken up with looks of head-to-toe sequins.

The women were dressed in themes of an Americana diner – meaning caped dresses that looked like hot dogs, and hats that resembled cakes.

For all his craziness, however, Scott’s pieces were well cut, so that the 1980s frilled, sparkly, lilac dress, worn by model Karen Elson would fit any summer party – ice cream sundae hat optional.

Another dress was cut to hug curves, as well as look like melted ice cream cones, while those with more savoury tastes can appreciate the dress and skirt outfit that looked like burgers, or the buttons that are fried eggs, sunny side up.

Calorie-filled madness aside, the best moments in any Scott collection is always the details, seen here as fabulous two-toned wingtip shoes for men, in raspberry, blue and white, with a clutch that is modelled after a soft drink cup with straw, or a tiny bag that is topped with chocolate sauce.

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2020 Oscars winners: in numbers
  • Parasite – 4
  • 1917– 3
  • Ford v Ferrari – 2
  • Joker – 2
  • Once Upon a Time ... in Hollywood – 2
  • American Factory – 1
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  • Jojo Rabbit – 1
  • Judy – 1
  • Little Women – 1
  • Learning to Skateboard in a Warzone (If You're a Girl) – 1
  • Marriage Story – 1
  • Rocketman – 1
  • The Neighbors' Window – 1
  • Toy Story 4 – 1
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While you're here

The Outsider

Stephen King, Penguin

Global state-owned investor ranking by size

1.

United States

2.

China

3.

UAE

4.

Japan

5

Norway

6.

Canada

7.

Singapore

8.

Australia

9.

Saudi Arabia

10.

South Korea

Analysis

Members of Syria's Alawite minority community face threat in their heartland after one of the deadliest days in country’s recent history. Read more

The specs
 
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Price: From Dh330,000 (estimate)
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RESULTS

6pm: Al Maktoum Challenge Round-2 – Group 1 (PA) $55,000 (Dirt) 1,900m
Winner: Rajeh, Antonio Fresu (jockey), Musabah Al Muhairi (trainer)

6.35pm: Oud Metha Stakes – Rated Conditions (TB) $60,000 (D) 1,200m
Winner: Get Back Goldie, William Buick, Doug O’Neill

7.10pm: Jumeirah Classic – Listed (TB) $150,000 (Turf) 1,600m
Winner: Sovereign Prince, James Doyle, Charlie Appleby

7.45pm: Firebreak Stakes – Group 3 (TB) $150,000 (D) 1,600m
Winner: Hypothetical, Mickael Barzalona, Salem bin Ghadayer

8.20pm: Al Maktoum Challenge Round-2 – Group 2 (TB) $350,000 (D) 1,900m
Winner: Hot Rod Charlie, William Buick, Doug O’Neill

8.55pm: Al Bastakiya Trial – Conditions (TB) $60,000 (D) 1,900m
Winner: Withering, Adrie de Vries, Fawzi Nass

9.30pm: Balanchine – Group 2 (TB) $180,000 (T) 1,800m
Winner: Creative Flair, William Buick, Charlie Appleby

Results

4pm: Al Bastakiya Listed US$300,000 (Dirt) 1,900m; Winner: Emblem Storm, Oisin Murphy (jockey), Satish Seemar (trainer).

4.35pm: Mahab Al Shimaal Group 3 $350,000 (D) 1,200m; Winner: Wafy, Tadhg O’Shea, Satish Seemar.

5.10pm: Nad Al Sheba Turf Group 3 $350,000 (Turf) 1,200m; Winner: Wildman Jack, Fernando Jara, Doug O’Neill.

5.45pm: Burj Nahaar Group 3 $350,000 (D) 1,600m; Winner: Salute The Soldier, Adrie de Vries, Fawzi Nass.

6.20pm: Jebel Hatta Group 1 $400,000 (T) 1,800m; Winner: Barney Roy, William Buick, Charlie Appleby.

6.55pm: Al Maktoum Challenge Round-3 Group 1 $600,000 (D) 2,000m; Winner: Matterhorn, Mickael Barzalona, Salem bin Ghadayer.

7.30pm: Dubai City Of Gold Group 2 $350,000 (T) 2,410m; Winner: Loxley, Mickael Barzalona, Charlie Appleby.

The more serious side of specialty coffee

While the taste of beans and freshness of roast is paramount to the specialty coffee scene, so is sustainability and workers’ rights.

The bulk of genuine specialty coffee companies aim to improve on these elements in every stage of production via direct relationships with farmers. For instance, Mokha 1450 on Al Wasl Road strives to work predominantly with women-owned and -operated coffee organisations, including female farmers in the Sabree mountains of Yemen.

Because, as the boutique’s owner, Garfield Kerr, points out: “women represent over 90 per cent of the coffee value chain, but are woefully underrepresented in less than 10 per cent of ownership and management throughout the global coffee industry.”

One of the UAE’s largest suppliers of green (meaning not-yet-roasted) beans, Raw Coffee, is a founding member of the Partnership of Gender Equity, which aims to empower female coffee farmers and harvesters.

Also, globally, many companies have found the perfect way to recycle old coffee grounds: they create the perfect fertile soil in which to grow mushrooms. 

The smuggler

Eldarir had arrived at JFK in January 2020 with three suitcases, containing goods he valued at $300, when he was directed to a search area.
Officers found 41 gold artefacts among the bags, including amulets from a funerary set which prepared the deceased for the afterlife.
Also found was a cartouche of a Ptolemaic king on a relief that was originally part of a royal building or temple. 
The largest single group of items found in Eldarir’s cases were 400 shabtis, or figurines.

Khouli conviction

Khouli smuggled items into the US by making false declarations to customs about the country of origin and value of the items.
According to Immigration and Customs Enforcement, he provided “false provenances which stated that [two] Egyptian antiquities were part of a collection assembled by Khouli's father in Israel in the 1960s” when in fact “Khouli acquired the Egyptian antiquities from other dealers”.
He was sentenced to one year of probation, six months of home confinement and 200 hours of community service in 2012 after admitting buying and smuggling Egyptian antiquities, including coffins, funerary boats and limestone figures.

For sale

A number of other items said to come from the collection of Ezeldeen Taha Eldarir are currently or recently for sale.
Their provenance is described in near identical terms as the British Museum shabti: bought from Salahaddin Sirmali, "authenticated and appraised" by Hossen Rashed, then imported to the US in 1948.

- An Egyptian Mummy mask dating from 700BC-30BC, is on offer for £11,807 ($15,275) online by a seller in Mexico

- A coffin lid dating back to 664BC-332BC was offered for sale by a Colorado-based art dealer, with a starting price of $65,000

- A shabti that was on sale through a Chicago-based coin dealer, dating from 1567BC-1085BC, is up for $1,950

UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
Gothia Cup 2025

4,872 matches 

1,942 teams

116 pitches

76 nations

26 UAE teams

15 Lebanese teams

2 Kuwaiti teams

Updated: July 01, 2021, 8:01 AM`