Lamb couscous and caramelised onions, prepared by Mark Dougherty, a chef from Ireland. Courtesy Philip Cheung
Lamb couscous and caramelised onions, prepared by Mark Dougherty, a chef from Ireland. Courtesy Philip Cheung
Lamb couscous and caramelised onions, prepared by Mark Dougherty, a chef from Ireland. Courtesy Philip Cheung
Lamb couscous and caramelised onions, prepared by Mark Dougherty, a chef from Ireland. Courtesy Philip Cheung

The unexpected allure of couscous: the history and tradition behind the North African staple


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  • Arabic

In a solemn announcement that may surprise gourmets across the globe, the august arbiters of Unesco have decided that the humble North African dish of couscous is to be elevated to the UN Agency’s elite list of the world’s Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.

Foodies from the Maghreb are hailing their “couscous traditions”, a staple that is just as much a part of daily life as rice and noodles in Asia or potatoes in Europe and North America.

Because while couscous may sound like the blandest base for a meal – steamed semolina traditionally made from crushed durum wheat – what brings it to life are the traditions of its preparation, the rites and rituals of serving, and, above all, the incredible variety of ingredients that can accompany it.

Algerian chef Rabah Ourrad prepares a couscous dish in Algiers on December 13, 2020. AFP
Algerian chef Rabah Ourrad prepares a couscous dish in Algiers on December 13, 2020. AFP

Why has Unesco chosen to single out couscous? Because it is actually more than just a dish.

It represents a way of life, originally that of the North African Maghreb, which is why the official description extolls the ”knowledge, know-how and practices related to the production and consumption of couscous”.

Transcending national borders

And in a unique judgment of heritage transcending national borders, Unesco has not chosen one country as “the home of couscous”, but awarded a joint inscription to Algeria, Morocco, Tunisia and Mauritania, recognising that “couscous is much more than a dish, it is a moment, memories, traditions, know-how, gestures that are passed on from generation to generation”.

Couscous is much more than a dish, it is a moment, memories, traditions, know-how, gestures that are passed on from generation to generation

This historic dish almost certainly began with nomadic Berber tribes whose indigenous word "seksu" has metamorphosed over the centuries into couscous, though dates for its first appearance are disputed.

Some food historians point back more than 2,000 years, to the then Berber kingdom of Numidia, while the earliest recipes were written down in Arabic during the 13th century.

The beauty of couscous is that it is indefinable. The magical semolina granules can be made from sorghum or pearl millet, as well as classic hard wheat. Alongside the obligatory harissa paste, you can serve it with raisins, almonds, saffron, orange blossoms and cinnamon.

Fish couscous served at Assud Porta Nuova. Courtesy Elena Dan
Fish couscous served at Assud Porta Nuova. Courtesy Elena Dan

Couscous can be eaten as a basic vegetarian dish without the usual cornucopia of meats, while as far away as Sicily, there is a North African tradition of seafood couscous with fish, octopus and squid.

In Libya or Mauritania, don’t be surprised to see couscous accompanied by camel meat, while the Egyptians save couscous for dessert, topping it with honey, dates, sultanas and nuts.

From Dubai to Dallas

As you would expect in any discussion about food, every nation is fiercely patriotic when it comes to where the best couscous is made, especially chefs from neighbouring Algeria, Morocco and Tunisia. But what is interesting about couscous is that at the end of any heated argument, all food lovers will end up agreeing that “the best couscous is my mother’s”.

While its origins may lie in Algeria, Morocco and Tunisia, the heritage of preparing and eating couscous soon spread across North Africa, becoming a vital element in the traditional cuisine of Libya, Mauritania, Egypt and the Sahel, before more recently making its mark on the global eating-out scene.

A marinated lamb rump with couscous from Jones the Grocer. Courtesy Jones the Grocer
A marinated lamb rump with couscous from Jones the Grocer. Courtesy Jones the Grocer

While certainly not as ubiquitous as McDonald’s, the Maghreb diaspora has today ensured that a hungry diner can find a colourful couscous eatery, invariably cheap and cheerful, in every corner of the world, from Dubai to Dallas, Shanghai to Seville, Bombay to Berlin.

'It belongs to everyone'

Moroccan-born chef Fatema Hal goes as far to say that couscous "really belongs to everyone".

"It is that rare dish that transcends frontiers, a dish that existed long before our modern international boundaries," she says.

"It is the only dish that accompanies the Maghreban throughout his life, served at birth, marriage, birthdays and death, always reunifying the family. Another profound tradition is that on Fridays, couscous is served for free to the poor.”

Hal has dedicated herself to safeguarding and recording culinary heritage with her books, including Couscous, published in 2001.

She remembers when welcoming France’s most famous Michelin-starred chef, Alain Ducasse, to try her very own couscous recipe, how “very, very curious he was, always taking pleasure to taste something new, always taking the time to appreciate the subtleties of each dish”.

In another of the cradles of couscous, one of Tunisia's most respected chefs, Slim Bettaieb, who oversees the kitchens of the luxury La Badira hotel in the seaside resort of Hammamet, reminisces how he found his early inspiration for cuisine. "In Tunisia, the spicy hot harissa sauce that accompanies every couscous is often prepared to a family recipe," he says.

“My maman would make enough to last the whole year, and as soon as I could walk, I loved helping her and learning her secrets. I continue the tradition today, serving it in my restaurant, though the only time I could not make enough was when I entered the Guinness Book of Records in 2001, preparing two tonnes of couscous!”

He makes the point that couscous can also be the perfect seasonal dish.

“My all time favourite couscous is right now, using winter vegetables: cabbage, fava beans, potatoes, peppers, pumpkin and a little ‘kaddid’, salted air-dried lamb that is traditionally prepared after Eid.”

The local couscous joint

When I was making Paris my home, it quickly became apparent that in addition to deciding on my favourite local cafe, bistrot and brasserie, I also had to choose my preferred couscous restaurant, Le Berbere. After all, way back in 2006, Gallic food critics were already taken by surprise when couscous came first in a poll of France’s favourite dishes, ahead of steak-frites, boeuf bourguignon and cassoulet.

The Berbere’s owner, Hocin Buouaziz, who was born in Paris from a family of the Algerian diaspora, recently told me how, “couscous was always present in my life, as I was born upstairs from a restaurant, Le Roi du Couscous, where my father was the chef".

"France has made me what I am, but my origins are Berber and from 11 to 17 years of age I lived in the family 'bled', our village in the Kabylie mountains," he says.

"When I came to Paris in 1999 and opened Le Berbere, the name was a nod to my origins, my culture. Over the years, my clients, who are 99.5 per cent local French, have become my friends, my family, and we now have wonderful meals with three generations at table, eating a couscous of course.”

My work as a travel and food writer takes me to some of the world's top gastronomic fine-dining restaurants, but once back home, I can’t wait for a convivial couscous shared with friends at Le Berbere, where the table is laid out with a huge tureen of vegetables floating in a rich broth – carrots, courgettes, celery, turnip, chickpeas, fennel, leek – plates of spicy merguez sausages, juicy grilled chops, skewers of chunky beef and chicken, savoury kofta meatballs, and a spit-roasted joint of mechoui lamb.

The waiter slowly does a tour of the table, gently ladling generous spoonfuls of delicately steamed couscous on to plates, and then everyone tucks into the ultimate comfort food feast. Definitely worthy of the title Intangible Cultural Heritage.

Scroll through the gallery below to see more 2020 additions to Unesco's list of Intangible Cultural Heritage:

Wydad 2 Urawa 3

Wydad Nahiri 21’, Hajhouj 90'

Urawa Antonio 18’, 60’, Kashiwagi 26’

UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
How much of your income do you need to save?

The more you save, the sooner you can retire. Tuan Phan, a board member of SimplyFI.com, says if you save just 5 per cent of your salary, you can expect to work for another 66 years before you are able to retire without too large a drop in income.

In other words, you will not save enough to retire comfortably. If you save 15 per cent, you can forward to another 43 working years. Up that to 40 per cent of your income, and your remaining working life drops to just 22 years. (see table)

Obviously, this is only a rough guide. How much you save will depend on variables, not least your salary and how much you already have in your pension pot. But it shows what you need to do to achieve financial independence.

 

The Africa Institute 101

Housed on the same site as the original Africa Hall, which first hosted an Arab-African Symposium in 1976, the newly renovated building will be home to a think tank and postgraduate studies hub (it will offer master’s and PhD programmes). The centre will focus on both the historical and contemporary links between Africa and the Gulf, and will serve as a meeting place for conferences, symposia, lectures, film screenings, plays, musical performances and more. In fact, today it is hosting a symposium – 5-plus-1: Rethinking Abstraction that will look at the six decades of Frank Bowling’s career, as well as those of his contemporaries that invested social, cultural and personal meaning into abstraction. 

Top Hundred overseas picks

London Spirit: Kieron Pollard, Riley Meredith 

Welsh Fire: Adam Zampa, David Miller, Naseem Shah 

Manchester Originals: Andre Russell, Wanindu Hasaranga, Sean Abbott

Northern Superchargers: Dwayne Bravo, Wahab Riaz

Oval Invincibles: Sunil Narine, Rilee Rossouw

Trent Rockets: Colin Munro

Birmingham Phoenix: Matthew Wade, Kane Richardson

Southern Brave: Quinton de Kock

The Great Derangement: Climate Change and the Unthinkable
Amitav Ghosh, University of Chicago Press

Our legal consultant

Name: Dr Hassan Mohsen Elhais

Position: legal consultant with Al Rowaad Advocates and Legal Consultants.

World Series

Game 1: Red Sox 8, Dodgers 4
Game 2: Red Sox 4, Dodgers 2
Game 3: Saturday (UAE)

* if needed

Game 4: Sunday
Game 5: Monday
Game 6: Wednesday
Game 7: Thursday

FIXTURES (all times UAE)

Sunday
Brescia v Lazio (3.30pm)
SPAL v Verona (6pm)
Genoa v Sassuolo (9pm)
AS Roma v Torino (11.45pm)

Monday
Bologna v Fiorentina (3.30pm)
AC Milan v Sampdoria (6pm)
Juventus v Cagliari (6pm)
Atalanta v Parma (6pm)
Lecce v Udinese (9pm)
Napoli v Inter Milan (11.45pm)

RACECARD

4.30pm Jebel Jais – Maiden (PA) Dh60,000 (Turf) 1,000m
5pm: Jabel Faya – Maiden (PA) Dh60,000 (T) 1,000m
5.30pm: Al Wathba Stallions Cup – Handicap (PA) Dh70,000 (T) 2,200m
6pm: The President’s Cup Prep – Conditions (PA) Dh100,000 (T) 2,200m
6.30pm: Abu Dhabi Equestrian Club – Prestige (PA) Dh125,000 (T) 1,600m
7pm: Al Ruwais – Group 3 (PA) Dh300,000 (T) 1,200m
7.30pm: Jebel Hafeet – Maiden (TB) Dh80,000 (T) 1,400m

Key facilities
  • Olympic-size swimming pool with a split bulkhead for multi-use configurations, including water polo and 50m/25m training lanes
  • Premier League-standard football pitch
  • 400m Olympic running track
  • NBA-spec basketball court with auditorium
  • 600-seat auditorium
  • Spaces for historical and cultural exploration
  • An elevated football field that doubles as a helipad
  • Specialist robotics and science laboratories
  • AR and VR-enabled learning centres
  • Disruption Lab and Research Centre for developing entrepreneurial skills
'The Batman'

Stars:Robert Pattinson

Director:Matt Reeves

Rating: 5/5

All you need to know about Formula E in Saudi Arabia

What The Saudia Ad Diriyah E-Prix

When Saturday

Where Diriyah in Saudi Arabia

What time Qualifying takes place from 11.50am UAE time through until the Super Pole session, which is due to end at 12.55pm. The race, which will last for 45 minutes, starts at 4.05pm.

Who is competing There are 22 drivers, from 11 teams, on the grid, with each vehicle run solely on electronic power.

While you're here
About Tenderd

Started: May 2018

Founder: Arjun Mohan

Based: Dubai

Size: 23 employees 

Funding: Raised $5.8m in a seed fund round in December 2018. Backers include Y Combinator, Beco Capital, Venturesouq, Paul Graham, Peter Thiel, Paul Buchheit, Justin Mateen, Matt Mickiewicz, SOMA, Dynamo and Global Founders Capital

Company%20profile
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3ECompany%20name%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20FinFlx%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EStarted%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20January%202021%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EFounders%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Amr%20Yussif%20(co-founder%20and%20CEO)%2C%20Mattieu%20Capelle%20(co-founder%20and%20CTO)%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EBased%20in%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Dubai%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EIndustry%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20FinTech%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EFunding%20size%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20%241.5m%20pre-seed%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EInvestors%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Venture%20capital%20-%20Y%20Combinator%2C%20500%20Global%2C%20Dubai%20Future%20District%20Fund%2C%20Fox%20Ventures%2C%20Vector%20Fintech.%20Also%20a%20number%20of%20angel%20investors%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
Tearful appearance

Chancellor Rachel Reeves set markets on edge as she appeared visibly distraught in parliament on Wednesday. 

Legislative setbacks for the government have blown a new hole in the budgetary calculations at a time when the deficit is stubbornly large and the economy is struggling to grow. 

She appeared with Keir Starmer on Thursday and the pair embraced, but he had failed to give her his backing as she cried a day earlier.

A spokesman said her upset demeanour was due to a personal matter.

Infobox

Western Region Asia Cup Qualifier, Al Amerat, Oman

The two finalists advance to the next stage of qualifying, in Malaysia in August

Results

UAE beat Iran by 10 wickets

Kuwait beat Saudi Arabia by eight wickets

Oman beat Bahrain by nine wickets

Qatar beat Maldives by 106 runs

Monday fixtures

UAE v Kuwait, Iran v Saudi Arabia, Oman v Qatar, Maldives v Bahrain

Benefits of first-time home buyers' scheme
  • Priority access to new homes from participating developers
  • Discounts on sales price of off-plan units
  • Flexible payment plans from developers
  • Mortgages with better interest rates, faster approval times and reduced fees
  • DLD registration fee can be paid through banks or credit cards at zero interest rates
Global state-owned investor ranking by size

1.

United States

2.

China

3.

UAE

4.

Japan

5

Norway

6.

Canada

7.

Singapore

8.

Australia

9.

Saudi Arabia

10.

South Korea

BACK%20TO%20ALEXANDRIA
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EDirector%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3ETamer%20Ruggli%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EStarring%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3ENadine%20Labaki%2C%20Fanny%20Ardant%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3ERating%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E3.5%2F5%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
The biog

Age: 35

Inspiration: Wife and kids 

Favourite book: Changes all the time but my new favourite is Thinking, Fast and Slow  by Daniel Kahneman

Best Travel Destination: Bora Bora , French Polynesia 

Favourite run: Jabel Hafeet, I also enjoy running the 30km loop in Al Wathba cycling track

Will the pound fall to parity with the dollar?

The idea of pound parity now seems less far-fetched as the risk grows that Britain may split away from the European Union without a deal.

Rupert Harrison, a fund manager at BlackRock, sees the risk of it falling to trade level with the dollar on a no-deal Brexit. The view echoes Morgan Stanley’s recent forecast that the currency can plunge toward $1 (Dh3.67) on such an outcome. That isn’t the majority view yet – a Bloomberg survey this month estimated the pound will slide to $1.10 should the UK exit the bloc without an agreement.

New Prime Minister Boris Johnson has repeatedly said that Britain will leave the EU on the October 31 deadline with or without an agreement, fuelling concern the nation is headed for a disorderly departure and fanning pessimism toward the pound. Sterling has fallen more than 7 per cent in the past three months, the worst performance among major developed-market currencies.

“The pound is at a much lower level now but I still think a no-deal exit would lead to significant volatility and we could be testing parity on a really bad outcome,” said Mr Harrison, who manages more than $10 billion in assets at BlackRock. “We will see this game of chicken continue through August and that’s likely negative for sterling,” he said about the deadlocked Brexit talks.

The pound fell 0.8 per cent to $1.2033 on Friday, its weakest closing level since the 1980s, after a report on the second quarter showed the UK economy shrank for the first time in six years. The data means it is likely the Bank of England will cut interest rates, according to Mizuho Bank.

The BOE said in November that the currency could fall even below $1 in an analysis on possible worst-case Brexit scenarios. Options-based calculations showed around a 6.4 per cent chance of pound-dollar parity in the next one year, markedly higher than 0.2 per cent in early March when prospects of a no-deal outcome were seemingly off the table.

Bloomberg

Low turnout
Two months before the first round on April 10, the appetite of voters for the election is low.

Mathieu Gallard, account manager with Ipsos, which conducted the most recent poll, said current forecasts suggested only two-thirds were "very likely" to vote in the first round, compared with a 78 per cent turnout in the 2017 presidential elections.

"It depends on how interesting the campaign is on their main concerns," he told The National. "Just now, it's hard to say who, between Macron and the candidates of the right, would be most affected by a low turnout."

How to apply for a drone permit
  • Individuals must register on UAE Drone app or website using their UAE Pass
  • Add all their personal details, including name, nationality, passport number, Emiratis ID, email and phone number
  • Upload the training certificate from a centre accredited by the GCAA
  • Submit their request
What are the regulations?
  • Fly it within visual line of sight
  • Never over populated areas
  • Ensure maximum flying height of 400 feet (122 metres) above ground level is not crossed
  • Users must avoid flying over restricted areas listed on the UAE Drone app
  • Only fly the drone during the day, and never at night
  • Should have a live feed of the drone flight
  • Drones must weigh 5 kg or less
Top financial tips for graduates

Araminta Robertson, of the Financially Mint blog, shares her financial advice for university leavers:

1. Build digital or technical skills: After graduation, people can find it extremely hard to find jobs. From programming to digital marketing, your early twenties are for building skills. Future employers will want people with tech skills.

2. Side hustle: At 16, I lived in a village and started teaching online, as well as doing work as a virtual assistant and marketer. There are six skills you can use online: translation; teaching; programming; digital marketing; design and writing. If you master two, you’ll always be able to make money.

3. Networking: Knowing how to make connections is extremely useful. Use LinkedIn to find people who have the job you want, connect and ask to meet for coffee. Ask how they did it and if they know anyone who can help you. I secured quite a few clients this way.

4. Pay yourself first: The minute you receive any income, put about 15 per cent aside into a savings account you won’t touch, to go towards your emergency fund or to start investing. I do 20 per cent. It helped me start saving immediately.

COMPANY PROFILE

Company: Bidzi

● Started: 2024

● Founders: Akshay Dosaj and Asif Rashid

● Based: Dubai, UAE

● Industry: M&A

● Funding size: Bootstrapped

● No of employees: Nine

The Land between Two Rivers: Writing in an Age of Refugees
Tom Sleigh, Graywolf Press

COMPANY%20PROFILE
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EName%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Floward%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EBased%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3ERiyadh%2C%20Saudi%20Arabia%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EFounders%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EAbdulaziz%20Al%20Loughani%20and%20Mohamed%20Al%20Arifi%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ESector%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EE-commerce%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ETotal%20funding%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EAbout%20%24200%20million%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EInvestors%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EAljazira%20Capital%2C%20Rainwater%20Partners%2C%20STV%20and%20Impact46%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ENumber%20of%20employees%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E1%2C200%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
Ferrari 12Cilindri specs

Engine: naturally aspirated 6.5-liter V12

Power: 819hp

Torque: 678Nm at 7,250rpm

Price: From Dh1,700,000

Available: Now

Financial considerations before buying a property

Buyers should try to pay as much in cash as possible for a property, limiting the mortgage value to as little as they can afford. This means they not only pay less in interest but their monthly costs are also reduced. Ideally, the monthly mortgage payment should not exceed 20 per cent of the purchaser’s total household income, says Carol Glynn, founder of Conscious Finance Coaching.

“If it’s a rental property, plan for the property to have periods when it does not have a tenant. Ensure you have enough cash set aside to pay the mortgage and other costs during these periods, ideally at least six months,” she says. 

Also, shop around for the best mortgage interest rate. Understand the terms and conditions, especially what happens after any introductory periods, Ms Glynn adds.

Using a good mortgage broker is worth the investment to obtain the best rate available for a buyer’s needs and circumstances. A good mortgage broker will help the buyer understand the terms and conditions of the mortgage and make the purchasing process efficient and easier. 

The five types of long-term residential visas

Obed Suhail of ServiceMarket, an online home services marketplace, outlines the five types of long-term residential visas:

Investors:

A 10-year residency visa can be obtained by investors who invest Dh10 million, out of which 60 per cent should not be in real estate. It can be a public investment through a deposit or in a business. Those who invest Dh5 million or more in property are eligible for a five-year residency visa. The invested amount should be completely owned by the investors, not loaned, and retained for at least three years.

Entrepreneurs:

A five-year multiple entry visa is available to entrepreneurs with a previous project worth Dh0.5m or those with the approval of an accredited business incubator in the UAE.  

Specialists

Expats with specialised talents, including doctors, specialists, scientists, inventors, and creative individuals working in the field of culture and art are eligible for a 10-year visa, given that they have a valid employment contract in one of these fields in the country.

Outstanding students:

A five-year visa will be granted to outstanding students who have a grade of 95 per cent or higher in a secondary school, or those who graduate with a GPA of 3.75 from a university. 

Retirees:

Expats who are at least 55 years old can obtain a five-year retirement visa if they invest Dh2m in property, have savings of Dh1m or more, or have a monthly income of at least Dh20,000.

Henrik Stenson's finishes at Abu Dhabi HSBC Championship:

2006 - 2
2007 - 8
2008 - 2
2009 - MC
2010 - 21
2011 - 42
2012 - MC
2013 - 23
2014 - MC
2015 - MC
2016 - 3
2017 - 8

Rebel%20Moon%20-%20Part%20One%3A%20A%20Child%20of%20Fire
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EDirector%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EZack%20Snyder%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EStars%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3ESofia%20Boutella%2C%20Djimon%20Hounsou%2C%20Ed%20Skrein%2C%20Michiel%20Huisman%2C%20Charlie%20Hunnam%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ERating%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E2%2F5%3C%2Fp%3E%0A