It wasn't so much the news that a faux French brasserie had opened at Souk Al Bahar that got me excited about Margaux. Rather, it was the announcement that the executive chef at this new Dubai restaurant had spent considerable time training and working under the French "superchef" Alain Ducasse that quickened my heartbeat. For quite a while now, there have been whispers in the industry that a Ducasse opening in Dubai was imminent, yet none of the rumours have come to fruition.
Julian Mercier's time with Ducasse began as a trainee at Spoon in London, and took him to Monaco, Switzerland, Tunisia and Japan, where he was part of the opening team for Ducasse's Benoit restaurant in Tokyo. With a track record like that, Mercier has either been unable to settle in any one place, or he's been a trusted ambassador and custodian of the Ducasse philosophy and brand. Perhaps the food at Margaux would provide the answers?
We entered a fairly unremarkable recreation of a French brasserie made brighter by the addition of a few arty prints about the place. But as if to divert our attention from the ordinariness within, the beaming waitress immediately suggested that we take seats on the outdoor terrace, where we could gawp at the enormity of the Burj Dubai and witness a test run of the fountains below. A few brittle crostini were brought to the table with dips of ricotta cheese and olive oil, which were perhaps erroneously announced as an amuse bouche. A rather unimaginative amuse bouche, if I may say so. But the smooth, gallic charm of the waiters, all dressed up in bistro-style black waistcoats and impeccably white shirts, helped to gloss over that somewhat. Especially when they bought us some more bread.
As we waited for our starters to arrive, the fountains that had hitherto lain dormant at the foot of the world's tallest building began to spit and spurt before erupting into a storm of activity. A squadron of water jets leapt up into the air in all directions to provide an impressive distraction that will be even more momentous once the test run is complete. Margaux's test run was about to commence with a cold green pea soup. The veloute was certainly smooth and refreshing poured on to a hearty dollop of crème fraîche, yet the helping was too large and a little too bland to hold our interest until the last spoonful. The garden bruschetta on the side, littered with baby vegetables, was an interesting diversion, however. My mozzarella with tomato salad presented a stupendously soft and malleable ball of creamy Burrata cheese and a deliriously tangy collection of chopped tomatoes of every imaginable hue, next to yet more bread in the form of garlic toast.
The mains were delivered with much ceremony; my companion's traditional beef tartar was made at the table. It was fascinating to watch each ingredient go in the basin, from the egg yolk, Dijon mustard and olive oil mayonnaise base, to the ground beef, onions, capers, parsley and gherkins that followed. The result was a dish of acute freshness, where each ingredient shone through. The fat chips on the side were large, riddled with flavour and one of the highlights of the meal. My rare fish was expertly cooked, and elegantly served on a smidgen of Riviera condiment to remind us of the Ducasse connection.
As the fountains jolted into life once more, my dining partner chose two desserts: the raspberry tart was notable for its crumbly shortcrust pastry, and the chocolate mousse with hazelnut centre offered a variety of textures and chocolate hints to savour. I couldn't resist the grapefruit pizza, chiefly because it reminded me of a chocolate burger by Laurent Pillard that I'd happened upon recently. This sweet deception featured grapefruit in place of tomato, mascarpone instead of mozzarella and green pistachio where the basil leaves should be, rather haphazardly arranged on a sweet pastry pizza base drizzled with honey. It wasn't unpleasant, but I don't think it will give Pizza Hut too many headaches or sleepless nights.
Margaux had its moments, that is without doubt. Once out on the terrace, the setting was clearly something to behold. The service was exemplary throughout - not overly attentive and perfectly knowledgeable. And chef Mercier's food had flashes of accomplishment, despite its simplicity. His highlights were clearly inspired by Ducasse, and I wouldn't be surprised if Ducasse himself doesn't take very careful notice of Mercier's progress here.
Margaux, Souk Al Bahar, 04 439 7555, Old Town Island, Dubai. Average cost of a meal for two: Dh500-600.
jbrennan@thenational.ae
How being social media savvy can improve your well being
Next time when procastinating online remember that you can save thousands on paying for a personal trainer and a gym membership simply by watching YouTube videos and keeping up with the latest health tips and trends.
As social media apps are becoming more and more consumed by health experts and nutritionists who are using it to awareness and encourage patients to engage in physical activity.
Elizabeth Watson, a personal trainer from Stay Fit gym in Abu Dhabi suggests that “individuals can use social media as a means of keeping fit, there are a lot of great exercises you can do and train from experts at home just by watching videos on YouTube”.
Norlyn Torrena, a clinical nutritionist from Burjeel Hospital advises her clients to be more technologically active “most of my clients are so engaged with their phones that I advise them to download applications that offer health related services”.
Torrena said that “most people believe that dieting and keeping fit is boring”.
However, by using social media apps keeping fit means that people are “modern and are kept up to date with the latest heath tips and trends”.
“It can be a guide to a healthy lifestyle and exercise if used in the correct way, so I really encourage my clients to download health applications” said Mrs Torrena.
People can also connect with each other and exchange “tips and notes, it’s extremely healthy and fun”.
In numbers: PKK’s money network in Europe
Germany: PKK collectors typically bring in $18 million in cash a year – amount has trebled since 2010
Revolutionary tax: Investigators say about $2 million a year raised from ‘tax collection’ around Marseille
Extortion: Gunman convicted in 2023 of demanding $10,000 from Kurdish businessman in Stockholm
Drug trade: PKK income claimed by Turkish anti-drugs force in 2024 to be as high as $500 million a year
Denmark: PKK one of two terrorist groups along with Iranian separatists ASMLA to raise “two-digit million amounts”
Contributions: Hundreds of euros expected from typical Kurdish families and thousands from business owners
TV channel: Kurdish Roj TV accounts frozen and went bankrupt after Denmark fined it more than $1 million over PKK links in 2013
SPECS
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EEngine%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%201.5-litre%204-cylinder%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EPower%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20101hp%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ETorque%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20135Nm%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ETransmission%3C%2Fstrong%3E%3A%20Six-speed%20auto%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EPrice%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20From%20Dh79%2C900%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EOn%20sale%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Now%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
The Perfect Couple
Starring: Nicole Kidman, Liev Schreiber, Jack Reynor
Creator: Jenna Lamia
Rating: 3/5
Formula Middle East Calendar (Formula Regional and Formula 4)
Round 1: January 17-19, Yas Marina Circuit – Abu Dhabi
Round 2: January 22-23, Yas Marina Circuit – Abu Dhabi
Round 3: February 7-9, Dubai Autodrome – Dubai
Round 4: February 14-16, Yas Marina Circuit – Abu Dhabi
Round 5: February 25-27, Jeddah Corniche Circuit – Saudi Arabia
MATCH INFO
Azerbaijan 0
Wales 2 (Moore 10', Wilson 34')
MATCH INFO
Asian Champions League, last 16, first leg:
Al Jazira 3 Persepolis 2
Second leg:
Monday, Azizi Stadium, Tehran. Kick off 7pm
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
Fixtures (all in UAE time)
Friday
Everton v Burnley 11pm
Saturday
Bournemouth v Tottenham Hotspur 3.30pm
West Ham United v Southampton 6pm
Wolves v Fulham 6pm
Cardiff City v Crystal Palace 8.30pm
Newcastle United v Liverpool 10.45pm
Sunday
Chelsea v Watford 5pm
Huddersfield v Manchester United 5pm
Arsenal v Brighton 7.30pm
Monday
Manchester City v Leicester City 11pm
The Cairo Statement
1: Commit to countering all types of terrorism and extremism in all their manifestations
2: Denounce violence and the rhetoric of hatred
3: Adhere to the full compliance with the Riyadh accord of 2014 and the subsequent meeting and executive procedures approved in 2014 by the GCC
4: Comply with all recommendations of the Summit between the US and Muslim countries held in May 2017 in Saudi Arabia.
5: Refrain from interfering in the internal affairs of countries and of supporting rogue entities.
6: Carry out the responsibility of all the countries with the international community to counter all manifestations of extremism and terrorism that threaten international peace and security
The rules on fostering in the UAE
A foster couple or family must:
- be Muslim, Emirati and be residing in the UAE
- not be younger than 25 years old
- not have been convicted of offences or crimes involving moral turpitude
- be free of infectious diseases or psychological and mental disorders
- have the ability to support its members and the foster child financially
- undertake to treat and raise the child in a proper manner and take care of his or her health and well-being
- A single, divorced or widowed Muslim Emirati female, residing in the UAE may apply to foster a child if she is at least 30 years old and able to support the child financially
'The worst thing you can eat'
Trans fat is typically found in fried and baked goods, but you may be consuming more than you think.
Powdered coffee creamer, microwave popcorn and virtually anything processed with a crust is likely to contain it, as this guide from Mayo Clinic outlines:
Baked goods - Most cakes, cookies, pie crusts and crackers contain shortening, which is usually made from partially hydrogenated vegetable oil. Ready-made frosting is another source of trans fat.
Snacks - Potato, corn and tortilla chips often contain trans fat. And while popcorn can be a healthy snack, many types of packaged or microwave popcorn use trans fat to help cook or flavour the popcorn.
Fried food - Foods that require deep frying — french fries, doughnuts and fried chicken — can contain trans fat from the oil used in the cooking process.
Refrigerator dough - Products such as canned biscuits and cinnamon rolls often contain trans fat, as do frozen pizza crusts.
Creamer and margarine - Nondairy coffee creamer and stick margarines also may contain partially hydrogenated vegetable oils.
WHAT IS A BLACK HOLE?
1. Black holes are objects whose gravity is so strong not even light can escape their pull
2. They can be created when massive stars collapse under their own weight
3. Large black holes can also be formed when smaller ones collide and merge
4. The biggest black holes lurk at the centre of many galaxies, including our own
5. Astronomers believe that when the universe was very young, black holes affected how galaxies formed
NO OTHER LAND
Director: Basel Adra, Yuval Abraham, Rachel Szor, Hamdan Ballal
Stars: Basel Adra, Yuval Abraham
Rating: 3.5/5
On the menu
First course
▶ Emirati sea bass tartare Yuzu and labneh mayo, avocado, green herbs, fermented tomato water
▶ The Tale of the Oyster Oyster tartare, Bahraini gum berry pickle
Second course
▶ Local mackerel Sourdough crouton, baharat oil, red radish, zaatar mayo
▶ One Flew Over the Cuckoo’s Nest Quail, smoked freekeh, cinnamon cocoa
Third course
▶ Bahraini bouillabaisse Venus clams, local prawns, fishfarm seabream, farro
▶ Lamb 2 ways Braised lamb, crispy lamb chop, bulgur, physalis
Dessert
▶ Lumi Black lemon ice cream, pistachio, pomegranate
▶ Black chocolate bar Dark chocolate, dates, caramel, camel milk ice cream
Voy!%20Voy!%20Voy!
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EDirector%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Omar%20Hilal%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EStars%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Muhammad%20Farrag%2C%20Bayoumi%20Fouad%2C%20Nelly%20Karim%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ERating%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%204%2F5%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
Stats at a glance:
Cost: 1.05 billion pounds (Dh 4.8 billion)
Number in service: 6
Complement 191 (space for up to 285)
Top speed: over 32 knots
Range: Over 7,000 nautical miles
Length 152.4 m
Displacement: 8,700 tonnes
Beam: 21.2 m
Draught: 7.4 m
COMPANY PROFILE
Initial investment: Undisclosed
Investment stage: Series A
Investors: Core42
Current number of staff: 47
