In the deep summer months, one of the most refreshing dishes around is ceviche. We went to Ben Wan, head chef at the hot Four Seasons eatery Coya Dubai, with some pressing questions about this Peruvian essential. He came back with not only the answers, but his recipe for Tuna Chifa.
What is the essence of Peruvian food?
Maybe it has to do with pride, the Peruvians’ pride in their national cuisine, stemming from the incredible produce of their land. Maybe it’s the original fusion food. It’s been influenced by almost every continent over the last few hundred years, the consistent flow of immigrants from Africa, through Europe to Asia, bringing their own ingredients and techniques mixed with the produce of Peru, is in essence what you have today, as Peruvian food.
When and how were you introduced to Peruvian cuisine and what were your thoughts then and now?
Roughly three years ago, at a London restaurant. I always had this misconception that Peruvian food was spicy, should be spicy, has to be spicy, because of the amount of aji [a spicy “sauce” of tomatoes, coriander, ají pepper, onions, and water] varieties. Now, yes, we use a lot of chillies. More than I’ve ever encountered before, with many different levels of heat, but the aji we use is first and foremost for its flavour, not for its heat. Aji Amarillo, Limo, Arnaucho, Mirasol, Charapita, Panca, all with their very own unique flavour.
People are sometimes scared of ceviche – can you tell them why they shouldn’t be?
I’ve never met anyone that is scared of having ceviche, but to reassure those who are, I can honestly say there is nothing to fear. Use the best ingredients, the freshest of fish. It’s as safe as sashimi/sushi, more so as we cure the fish with lime juice.
What fish is best suited, and why?
Most fish works for ceviche, firm white flesh as opposed to an oily fish. Medium-sized, anything larger than 3.5 kilograms can be quite tough with a lot of sinew and strong in flavour.
Where is the best place to buy raw fish in Dubai and what questions should you ask when doing so?
For me if I was to buy for home I will go to Deira fish market. I want to touch the fish, lift it up, look at the eyes and smell the gills. To make sure it’s fresh, you can’t do that when it’s filleted, off the bone at the supermarket. Ask about the varieties, the texture of the fish, what it’s best used for. Act like you know and the fishmonger will spend time with you and maybe give you a better price. But remember, prices change daily. The prices today will be different from last week. It’s about supply and demand, seasons, weather conditions, the fishermen will want a higher price for fishing in bad conditions. For Coya Dubai, our fish comes directly from Europe and Japan, but local fish is something we are exploring right now.
How central is the concept of ceviche to Peruvian cooking?
Ceviche is absolutely integral to Peruvian cooking, it was born there. They have a National Ceviche day. That tells you everything you need to know about how important it is.
Recipe for Tuna Chifa
Chifa dressing
150g Konbu water (filtered water infused with konbu for 24 hrs)
100g white ponzu
30g Chilli garlic Paste
5g chilli oil
2g sesame oil
Lime juice to taste
Maldon salt
Garnish
Prawn crackers
Sliced spring onions
Chopped chives
Sesame seeds
100g Diced Yellowfin tuna
Method
Add the tuna to a mixing bowl and season with the salt and lime juice, to taste.
Continue to mix for a minute or two to semi-cure the tuna.
Add a pinch of chives, sesame seeds and spring onions and mix further.
Add enough Chifa tiger (dressing) to dress the fish.
Serve in a bowl over ice, garnished on top with a prawn cracker, spring onions, chives and sesame seeds.
