In a new series, we talk to UAE food institutions that have been serving customers for decades about these unprecedented times ...
If you’re looking for authentic South Indian food in Dubai, chances are, Calicut Paragon, with branches in Karama and Al Nahda, has been recommended as the place to go.
The restaurant was started in 1939 by Govindan Panhikeyil and his son, PM Valsan, in Kerala, India, and opened its first branch in Dubai in 2005. Now handled by the third generation, Sumesh Govind and his wife, Liju, the restaurant is one of Dubai’s best-loved spots for authentic South Indian fare – whether its fish moilee (a curry made with coconut milk), a thali or a cup of filter coffee.
“Growing up, I always heard stories about my grandfather. He was adamant about quality and hygiene – he wanted everything to be perfect,” says Govind, who got into the family business 35 years ago when he was only 21 years old. “We would always go that extra length to bring something new to the customer. And we cater to the masses. We were never trying to be a fine-dining restaurant.
“Business was perfect. We were doing really well. But the coronavirus pandemic has been a complex issue that has taken the world by surprise. Now we are just trying to find ways to survive.”
With restaurants closed to dine-in customers for much of April, and more people eschewing outside food in favour of home-cooked meals, the food and beverage sector has been one of the worst affected amid the pandemic. Even restaurants such as Calicut Paragon, with its strong fan base and long history, have been hard hit.
According to Govind, the restaurant has made roughly 15 to 20 per cent of its usual sales over the past two months. In other words, it has been making a huge loss. Even as restrictions are being eased and restaurants are allowed to seat dine-in customers again (at a 30 per cent capacity), it still has not helped too much, he says.
“Running a restaurant is a labour-intensive business. It's not a 9-to-5 job. Moreover, we have a staff of about 100 right now, and overheads that are huge. Business needs to go up. If things carry on the way they are, more than 50 per cent of restaurants in Dubai – at least in the Keralite community – will go broke,” he says.
Calicut Paragon has always been known for its ability to innovate, says Govind, who believes that this is the only way restaurants will be able to survive, going forward. “About 12 years ago, we noticed that there was a worldwide trend towards healthier food. At that time, we looked at the Kerala paratha and thought, 'Why can’t we make this, but with wholewheat flour instead?' It took a lot of experimentation. We finally found a way to get the right percentage of wholewheat and minimal white flour that needed to be added to create the dish without compromising on quality, and it was a hit. Now there are many restaurants serving the same dish,” says Govind. It is this need to constantly innovate that he is bringing with him as the restaurant struggles to cope with the pandemic.
“Every situation demands something. Right now, it is all about going that extra mile, thinking about hygiene and about nutrition. We want to serve dishes to our customers that might contribute to someone’s health in a positive way,” says Govind.
In order to adapt to the current situation, the restaurant has launched a new healthy menu. It has also taken to making an immunity-boosting soup, served complimentary to customers. Other than that, the restaurant is adapting by cooking food in small batches and having all of its food served within four hours of preparation. Govind hopes this will help.
“It’s hard when you are so passionate about something and you see everything turn upside down,” he says. “The restaurant business can be unpredictable – but at the same time it is an industry that helps some of the most downtrodden people in the world. Those working for this sector know that you can hire people who otherwise don’t have educational qualifications, teach them how to be a waiter or assistant to the cook, and within two years they can climb the ladder. That’s what is making me hold on. Just by being in this industry, we are able to touch the lives of so many people.”
Killing of Qassem Suleimani
In numbers
- Number of children under five will fall from 681 million in 2017 to 401m in 2100
- Over-80s will rise from 141m in 2017 to 866m in 2100
- Nigeria will become the world’s second most populous country with 791m by 2100, behind India
- China will fall dramatically from a peak of 2.4 billion in 2024 to 732 million by 2100
- an average of 2.1 children per woman is required to sustain population growth
MISSION: IMPOSSIBLE – FINAL RECKONING
Director: Christopher McQuarrie
Starring: Tom Cruise, Hayley Atwell, Simon Pegg
Rating: 4/5
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
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Indoor cricket in a nutshell
Indoor cricket in a nutshell
Indoor Cricket World Cup - Sept 16-20, Insportz, Dubai
16 Indoor cricket matches are 16 overs per side
8 There are eight players per team
9 There have been nine Indoor Cricket World Cups for men. Australia have won every one.
5 Five runs are deducted from the score when a wickets falls
4 Batsmen bat in pairs, facing four overs per partnership
Scoring In indoor cricket, runs are scored by way of both physical and bonus runs. Physical runs are scored by both batsmen completing a run from one crease to the other. Bonus runs are scored when the ball hits a net in different zones, but only when at least one physical run is score.
Zones
A Front net, behind the striker and wicketkeeper: 0 runs
B Side nets, between the striker and halfway down the pitch: 1 run
C Side nets between halfway and the bowlers end: 2 runs
D Back net: 4 runs on the bounce, 6 runs on the full
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F1 The Movie
Starring: Brad Pitt, Damson Idris, Kerry Condon, Javier Bardem
Director: Joseph Kosinski
Rating: 4/5
Black Panther
Dir: Ryan Coogler
Starring: Chadwick Boseman, Michael B Jordan, Lupita Nyong'o
Five stars
UAE%20medallists%20at%20Asian%20Games%202023
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Closing the loophole on sugary drinks
As The National reported last year, non-fizzy sugared drinks were not covered when the original tax was introduced in 2017. Sports drinks sold in supermarkets were found to contain, on average, 20 grams of sugar per 500ml bottle.
The non-fizzy drink AriZona Iced Tea contains 65 grams of sugar – about 16 teaspoons – per 680ml can. The average can costs about Dh6, which would rise to Dh9.
Drinks such as Starbucks Bottled Mocha Frappuccino contain 31g of sugar in 270ml, while Nescafe Mocha in a can contains 15.6g of sugar in a 240ml can.
Flavoured water, long-life fruit juice concentrates, pre-packaged sweetened coffee drinks fall under the ‘sweetened drink’ category
Not taxed:
Freshly squeezed fruit juices, ground coffee beans, tea leaves and pre-prepared flavoured milkshakes do not come under the ‘sweetened drink’ band.
ESSENTIALS
The flights
Emirates flies from Dubai to Phnom Penh via Yangon from Dh2,700 return including taxes. Cambodia Bayon Airlines and Cambodia Angkor Air offer return flights from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap from Dh250 return including taxes. The flight takes about 45 minutes.
The hotels
Rooms at the Raffles Le Royal in Phnom Penh cost from $225 (Dh826) per night including taxes. Rooms at the Grand Hotel d'Angkor cost from $261 (Dh960) per night including taxes.
The tours
A cyclo architecture tour of Phnom Penh costs from $20 (Dh75) per person for about three hours, with Khmer Architecture Tours. Tailor-made tours of all of Cambodia, or sites like Angkor alone, can be arranged by About Asia Travel. Emirates Holidays also offers packages.
RESULT
Norway 1 Spain 1
Norway: King (90 4')
Spain: Niguez (47')
Tearful appearance
Chancellor Rachel Reeves set markets on edge as she appeared visibly distraught in parliament on Wednesday.
Legislative setbacks for the government have blown a new hole in the budgetary calculations at a time when the deficit is stubbornly large and the economy is struggling to grow.
She appeared with Keir Starmer on Thursday and the pair embraced, but he had failed to give her his backing as she cried a day earlier.
A spokesman said her upset demeanour was due to a personal matter.
Benefits of first-time home buyers' scheme
- Priority access to new homes from participating developers
- Discounts on sales price of off-plan units
- Flexible payment plans from developers
- Mortgages with better interest rates, faster approval times and reduced fees
- DLD registration fee can be paid through banks or credit cards at zero interest rates
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
EXPATS
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Sholto Byrnes on Myanmar politics
Most sought after workplace benefits in the UAE
- Flexible work arrangements
- Pension support
- Mental well-being assistance
- Insurance coverage for optical, dental, alternative medicine, cancer screening
- Financial well-being incentives
Our legal consultant
Name: Hassan Mohsen Elhais
Position: legal consultant with Al Rowaad Advocates and Legal Consultants.
THE SPECS
Engine: 1.6-litre turbo
Transmission: six-speed automatic
Power: 165hp
Torque: 240Nm
Price: From Dh89,000 (Enjoy), Dh99,900 (Innovation)
On sale: Now
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UK-EU trade at a glance
EU fishing vessels guaranteed access to UK waters for 12 years
Co-operation on security initiatives and procurement of defence products
Youth experience scheme to work, study or volunteer in UK and EU countries
Smoother border management with use of e-gates
Cutting red tape on import and export of food
Specs
Engine: Duel electric motors
Power: 659hp
Torque: 1075Nm
On sale: Available for pre-order now
Price: On request
WITHIN%20SAND
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At a glance
Global events: Much of the UK’s economic woes were blamed on “increased global uncertainty”, which can be interpreted as the economic impact of the Ukraine war and the uncertainty over Donald Trump’s tariffs.
Growth forecasts: Cut for 2025 from 2 per cent to 1 per cent. The OBR watchdog also estimated inflation will average 3.2 per cent this year
Welfare: Universal credit health element cut by 50 per cent and frozen for new claimants, building on cuts to the disability and incapacity bill set out earlier this month
Spending cuts: Overall day-to day-spending across government cut by £6.1bn in 2029-30
Tax evasion: Steps to crack down on tax evasion to raise “£6.5bn per year” for the public purse
Defence: New high-tech weaponry, upgrading HM Naval Base in Portsmouth
Housing: Housebuilding to reach its highest in 40 years, with planning reforms helping generate an extra £3.4bn for public finances
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
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The biog
Hometown: Cairo
Age: 37
Favourite TV series: The Handmaid’s Tale, Black Mirror
Favourite anime series: Death Note, One Piece and Hellsing
Favourite book: Designing Brand Identity, Fifth Edition
The%20specs
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FULL%20FIGHT%20CARD
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Abdullah Abdullah 39.52 per cent
Gulbuddin Hekmatyar 3.85 per cent
Rahmatullah Nabil 1.8 per cent
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The number of Chinese people living in Dubai: An estimated 200,000
Number of Chinese people in International City: Almost 50,000
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Daily visitors to Dragon Mart in 2010: 20,000
Percentage increase in visitors in eight years: 500 per cent
FROM%20THE%20ASHES
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