An open flame and an open road … dream on



S'mores - a campground stalwart and a generally adored hot mess of graham cracker, toasted marshmallow and squares of melting chocolate - was where my understanding of campfire cuisine began and ended.

At the risk of getting myself into trouble with s'mores fans, my inner purist admits to viewing s'mores as a classic example of good things combining to create something that's less than the sum of its parts.

Though less is often more, s'mores, true to their name, are the essence of lily-gilding. My sister loves to assemble them at home using a microwave for the marshmallows and nutella in place of the traditional Hershey's bar, but I call it sacrilege. What is a s'more if not for the toasty, blackened flakes of smouldering sugar, the wisps of caramel-scented smoke?

"At the very least, use a toaster oven," I'd plead. But good sense falls on deaf ears after the s'more has cast its spell.

I daydream about a lot of things that are out of reach: world peace, better hand-eye coordination and an ability to communicate effortlessly with my dog. Some of my longest-running fantasies involve adventures on an open road, cooking on an open fire and eating off paper plates.

Time has delayed some daydreams in favour of others. The original version of my fantasy food-crawl caravan was formulated with a school friend while bouncing on a trampoline in a junior gym class. The plan involved three of us driving from Abu Dhabi to Saudi Arabia to Jordan to Syria to Turkey to Greece to Italy to France to Spain in an old but good first-generation Range Rover we would miraculously manage both to acquire and to soup up for the expedition.

Our adolescent idealism was the rose-tinted window on that car ride to freedom, shielding us from whatever realities of danger, disease and acute unrest might have been raging along the way at the time. In deference to this, we replaced Saudi Arabia with Iran before shifting the mission to the back burner while prepping for more immediate goals, like high school.

I volunteered to be the mobile cook for the journey, and took to writing menus in preparation. Like many things that look fine on paper, these imaginary itineraries and their accompanying menus ran low on the feasibility scale.

Oddly enough, given my obsession with cooking, I own neither a toaster oven nor an outdoor grill. I use my gas stove for everything I cook in the absence of an open flame, in spite of the fact that some of my favourite foods are exponentially improved after direct contact with fire: peaches and steak, long green chilli peppers and thick onion rings, juicy burgers and corn on the cob.

After my toaster oven stopped working, I took to heating up Arabic bread for lunch over the low, open flame of the gas burner on my stove, using tongs to flip it quickly and regularly to prevent it from charring or crisping unevenly.

For babaganoush and roasted bell peppers, I lay down aluminium foil to protect the stove, pierce the washed vegetables a few times with a skewer to allow the heat to escape and place them directly into the flame. For a large number of vegetables, I just slip them on to the rack beneath the broiler. I leave cooking outdoors at home to people who are better primed for such variables as unpredictable heating and climatic elements.

Just before the US went to war in Afghanistan, I began revising my childhood dream crusade, hatching an ostensibly more adult plan to tag along with an architect friend on a 40-day drive in a clunky old Mercedes-Benz built for life on the road. We would drive from Kabul to Morocco to look at minarets. Well, she'd look at the minarets; I'd study couscous. We were in college at the time. We tried unsuccessfully to win a fellowship that would fund the project. Fortunately, our professors were smarter than we were.

Operation Maiden Voyage was intended to be an examination of food patriotism. The reason I was particularly interested in north Africa was because it was the birthplace of durum wheat pasta. Libyans were responsible for the introduction of pasta to Italy during the failed Arab attempt to conquer Sicily in the late seventh century. But pasta is as undeniably Italian as Sophia Loren, whom I shall love forever for saying: "Everything you see I owe to spaghetti."

Where does one culture end and the next begin? Is there room for cultural entitlement at the dinner table? Should there be? Why are Arabs feuding over the right to declare felafel a national dish? Is its authenticity determined by geography alone?

In the land of wishful thinking, the planning and preparation of meals is my primary responsibility during road trips. I still have a terrible sense of direction, despite my father's considerable efforts to activate my inner desert dweller's biological compass. I spent a good portion of my teens navigating the dusty sienna dunes of Ras Al Khaimah with him, a man whose idea of a driving lesson consisted of getting us "lost" in the desert, then challenging me to find a way out. Indeed, I can calibrate a compass and read a map, but most importantly, I can build a fire, and he taught me how.

Now if only I had a taste for s'mores.

NO OTHER LAND

Director: Basel Adra, Yuval Abraham, Rachel Szor, Hamdan Ballal

Stars: Basel Adra, Yuval Abraham

Rating: 3.5/5

The smuggler

Eldarir had arrived at JFK in January 2020 with three suitcases, containing goods he valued at $300, when he was directed to a search area.
Officers found 41 gold artefacts among the bags, including amulets from a funerary set which prepared the deceased for the afterlife.
Also found was a cartouche of a Ptolemaic king on a relief that was originally part of a royal building or temple. 
The largest single group of items found in Eldarir’s cases were 400 shabtis, or figurines.

Khouli conviction

Khouli smuggled items into the US by making false declarations to customs about the country of origin and value of the items.
According to Immigration and Customs Enforcement, he provided “false provenances which stated that [two] Egyptian antiquities were part of a collection assembled by Khouli's father in Israel in the 1960s” when in fact “Khouli acquired the Egyptian antiquities from other dealers”.
He was sentenced to one year of probation, six months of home confinement and 200 hours of community service in 2012 after admitting buying and smuggling Egyptian antiquities, including coffins, funerary boats and limestone figures.

For sale

A number of other items said to come from the collection of Ezeldeen Taha Eldarir are currently or recently for sale.
Their provenance is described in near identical terms as the British Museum shabti: bought from Salahaddin Sirmali, "authenticated and appraised" by Hossen Rashed, then imported to the US in 1948.

- An Egyptian Mummy mask dating from 700BC-30BC, is on offer for £11,807 ($15,275) online by a seller in Mexico

- A coffin lid dating back to 664BC-332BC was offered for sale by a Colorado-based art dealer, with a starting price of $65,000

- A shabti that was on sale through a Chicago-based coin dealer, dating from 1567BC-1085BC, is up for $1,950

How to protect yourself when air quality drops

Install an air filter in your home.

Close your windows and turn on the AC.

Shower or bath after being outside.

Wear a face mask.

Stay indoors when conditions are particularly poor.

If driving, turn your engine off when stationary.

THE BIO: Martin Van Almsick

Hometown: Cologne, Germany

Family: Wife Hanan Ahmed and their three children, Marrah (23), Tibijan (19), Amon (13)

Favourite dessert: Umm Ali with dark camel milk chocolate flakes

Favourite hobby: Football

Breakfast routine: a tall glass of camel milk

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Our legal consultants

Name: Hassan Mohsen Elhais

Position: legal consultant with Al Rowaad Advocates and Legal Consultants.

Tuesday's fixtures
Group A
Kyrgyzstan v Qatar, 5.45pm
Iran v Uzbekistan, 8pm
N Korea v UAE, 10.15pm