Is mall food having its moment? It just might be.
I have not-too-distant memories of fighting over the last soggy, lukewarm pasty to refuel on the way home after a day of shopping. I'd frequently force it down in a setting about as glamorous as an underpass during the armageddon. Thankfully, those days are gone. Mainly because that was England and this is the UAE, where malls are practically an art form.
Konjiki Hototogisu is consistently packed in Mall of the Emirates, while Beirut-born Almayass is impressing with seriously good Armenian-Lebanese fusion in the Galleria Al Maryah Island. Both have Bib Gourmand nods. Slrp by 3 Fils in Yas Mall is knockout and the burgers firing out of Eleven Green attract queues that stretch out of Meydan Mall before it even opens.
The latest restaurant to add to this lofty list is Goldfish Sushi and Yakitori, the brainchild of chef Akmal Anuar (11 Woodfire, Osteria Funkcoolio and, formerly, 3 Fils). It’s reeling in diners with high expectations at Marina Mall, Abu Dhabi, following the success of its Dubai counterpart inside, you guessed it, a mall.
Where to sit and what to expect
In keeping with the rest of the shared projects between Sunset Hospitality Group and Anuar’s company White Rice, the space is decidedly cool. It’s all dark walls and floors, with light wood furniture softening the Berghain vibes. Plus, there is statement tiling and finishes around the drinks stations and sushi bar. However, it spills out into the mall for “outdoor” seating that, though inside, is bathed in light from the enormous glass ceiling. There’s also plenty of room – handy to swing your shopping bags around without fear of thwacking table No 12.
My dining partner and I make a beeline for one of the semi-circle booths at the back with squashy cushioning. Within seconds, our affable and attentive waiter Lin is heading over armed with an iPad and two of the house-branded fizzy drinks.
The menu
Chef Anuar is from Singapore, and this menu sums up his style of creative and precise Japanese technique with South-East Asian flair. It’s split into starters, sushi, skewers and mains and is liberally peppered with seafood. There’s a delicate hand with snapper ceviche (Dh70), yellowtail carpaccio (Dh72) and otoro nigiri (Dh85), alongside get-stuck-in-style dishes of sea bass claypot (Dh150) and king prawn skewers (Dh84).
Veggies and carnivores don’t fret, there is a solid smattering of creations to suit, including chicken ramen (Dh70), Wagyu sliders (Dh115), mushroom claypot (Dh82) and grilled miso corn (Dh32).
I pluck dishes from a recommendation list Anuar gave me beforehand while diving full steam into Lin’s suggestion of Hana Spritz (Dh40) one of the fizzy drinks. It’s zingy, tart and utterly moreish.
The folds of yellowtail carpaccio are so thin they’re translucent, but aren’t lost in the big, bold flavours of spicy cracked black and pink peppercorns, green chilli and soy sauce – Anuar’s favourite ingredient (“they add layers of flavour that enhance and elevate the overall taste”).
The volcano maki (Dh52) is perfectly suited to its name, with rolls of teriyaki salmon dripping in a thick lava of fiery mayo; the lamb sate skewers (Dh55) are a jazzy, Middle Eastern twist on the Malay/Thai classic; and the leg of octopus (Dh90) is a dish I remember fondly from Anuar's time at 3 Fils, but it's even better here. The tentacle's suckers have been gently caught by fire and the marinade has caramelised, while the artichoke puree it sits on is wonderfully light.
The sea bass claypot is finished tableside as Lin smashes chunks of the fillet into the rice and lashes it in more soy. But the star of the show here is the rice stuck to the bottom and side, which I use a wooden spoon to prise off like barnacles and crunch down.
I usually forgo dessert, not because I have a shouty personal trainer. I just don't like them. But Anuar insists on the chocolate bomber (Dh45). It has the air of a cigar lounge and is sophistication on a plate, with dark chocolate, flakes of salt and velvety vanilla ice cream rich with seeds.
It’s dishes like this that are spearheading the mall food revolution.
To order or not to order
The chocolate bomber (which is really just a tart) is made with chocolate-infused pastry and filled with a deep, dark and decadent ganache. Teeth don’t bite, they glide through it.
Despite Anuar’s recommendation, I avoid the Wagyu sliders. They look outstanding in the pictures, but the menu reveals they include contentious foie gras.
Save or splurge
Embracing the casual mall crowd means offering an effectively priced menu and, at Goldfish, you can get three courses for a touch above Dh100. Try the shiitake skewers (Dh22), shrimp or chicken noodles with chilli and egg (Dh45) and the Rosie mess (a rose-inspired variation on the traditional Eton mess, Dh40).
However, there is room for “I-just-got-paid” splurging, with the tuna belly and caviar bowl (Dh175), Australian tenderloin (Dh320) and matcha cheesecake (Dh45).
A chat with the chef
“Goldfish represents my vision of blending creativity, precision and passion for Japanese cuisine,” Anuar tells me, “offering guests a dining experience that is both authentic and innovative.”
He says he wanted to build on the success of the Dubai branch by heading down Sheikh Zayed Road to the capital and reaching a new audience.
“My cooking style is always driven by the ingredients,” he adds. “I believe each product has its own identity and peak season, and my approach starts with respecting and highlighting these qualities. From there, I create dishes that complement and enhance the natural characteristics of the produce.”
With that in mind, he chooses some of his favourite dishes on the menu. To start, he recommends the aforementioned yellowtail carpaccio. For vegetarians, he picks the mizuna and corn salad as it’s “light, refreshing, and full of vibrant flavours”. For meat lovers, it’s the aforementioned Wagyu foie sliders.
Seafood enthusiasts “will relish” the sea bass claypot for its “comfort and bold flavours”. For something healthy, he suggests the mushroom riff on the claypot, which is elevated with generous shavings of black truffle. And for dessert it’s the uber-decadent chocolate bomber “to perfectly round off the meal”.
Contact information
Goldfish is open daily from 10am-11pm, and reservations can be made by calling 02 665 6485.
This review was conducted at the invitation of the restaurant
