The National's Taste Test series takes you inside the latest restaurants just before they open their doors, and ask chefs what dishes they would recommend – and what makes them special – for you to try (or, indeed, avoid).
Here is a preview of the menu at Mimi Mei Fair, a Chinese restaurant from London that opens in Dubai on Thursday.
Inside Mimi Mei Fair
With the global popularity of Chinese cuisine and Dubai's fierce competition when it comes to novelty, Mimi Mei Fair has its work cut out. But if Samyukta Nair's passion and enthusiasm are any indication, the Dubai outpost of her chic London venture might just have all the makings of a noteworthy addition to the city's vibrant dining scene.
I catch up with the Indian entrepreneur over lunch, perched on plush seating in the nearly completed restaurant in Downtown Dubai. For someone in the middle of a restaurant-opening whirlwind (she just opened an Italian venture in London), Nair still exudes calm confidence – though she’d probably laugh it off if you pointed it out.
“I'm sorry about the chaos,” she says, alluding to the pre-opening rush as we take a tour of the venue, with one intimate room leading to another.
“You can see 1920s Shanghai in the design, very much inspired by Art Deco,” says Nair. Walking through the venue is an experience in itself, with its stunning blend of moody hues, chinoiserie panels and quirky vintage touches. While many modern restaurants tend to embrace a clean industrial look, Mimi Mei Fair is on the other end of the spectrum: here you'll find utter maximalism full of character yet without being overbearing.
“At its core, Mimi Mei Fair is designed like a residence or empress Mimi's home away from home, if you will,” explains Nair. When I enter through an unassuming front door, the first thing I see is a lavish private dining room, which is a perfect introduction to the venue's flair for the dramatic. It's a feast for the eyes, with the furniture looking like it's curated from the estate of a vintage collector.
Three dining spaces follow: a parlour, anchored by bold red chandeliers and rose velvet banquettes; a library, with a charming mix of English country house and 19th-century Chinese decorative styles; and a garden-style terrace with views of Burj Khalifa. There's also the Moon bar, inspired by the legend of Yutu (aka the Jade Rabbit).
The venue is layered with thoughtful details, with each corner offering its own little surprise. Also tucked away are quirky and personal touches, inspired by Nair's own family stories. “My parents are collectors – from a love for reading and books, to antiques such as Chinese urns, the collectables seen in the space are deeply personal,” she says.
While Nair is not a chef, her involvement in creating the menu is palpable, as much as her obsession with the perfect shade of lacquer for the furniture. Capturing the depth of Chinese cuisine is important to Nair, who has her fair share of stories of living and studying in the country.
The food is a vast mix of Chinese flavours, spanning regions and tastes, from delicate dim-sum-inspired starters to the bold and fiery dishes of Hunan and Sichuan. Nair recommends the following dishes for your first visit when the restaurant opens on Thursday.
Xiao long jewels
“This is our take on xiao long bao, using vegetables to create natural food colouring,” says Nair, who adds it's a popular item in their London location. “The dumplings are very delicate, but are full of flavour.”
Taste test: A theatrical opener that carries the danger of being a bit too cheeky, Mimi Mei Fair's take on the traditional xiao long bao is fun and satisfying. I love soup dumplings, so I was a bit anxious when I saw the dish (purists should order with caution). But the execution is near-flawless, with the quirky wrappers packing an umami bomb inside – my favourite is the spicy crab.
Crispy golden langoustines
“Langoustines can be quite simple, so we added the filo pastry to elevate it. There's also truffle essence that adds to the flavour profile,” says Nair.
Taste test: The langoustines are a visual and textural delight, with the crunch of the filo giving way to the delicate sweetness of the seafood. It's a demonstration of simplicity, with the thoughtful addition of truffle, which adds an interesting earthy element.
Applewood-fired roasted Peking duck
Nair says serving duck is a no-brainer for Mimi Mei Fair, but it is important to have the right tools for it, such as a Josper oven where they use applewood to cook the poultry. “We recommend guests have the skin first, with caviar if they want, before digging into the meat.”
Taste test: The restaurant does a good job of recreating an authentic Chinese duck. The tableside carving adds a performative touch, while the accompanying pancakes and condiments allow me to customise the dish to suit my preferences. The meat is tender and the skin is pure decadence. The applewood adds a subtle smoky aroma.
Hunan crispy Atlantic sea bass
“We have a steamed version of this, but we also wanted to serve it crispy fried,” says Nair, who admits that her South Indian quirks come out when it comes to seafood. “It's quite delicate and warm, which is key to this dish.”
Taste test: The golden crust-concealed fish is moist and flaky, with the chilli-forward sauce providing just the right amount of heat. Chinese sauces can be one-dimensional when done poorly, but this dish has a subtle complexity to it without overwhelming the palate.
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The burning issue
The internal combustion engine is facing a watershed moment – major manufacturer Volvo is to stop producing petroleum-powered vehicles by 2021 and countries in Europe, including the UK, have vowed to ban their sale before 2040. The National takes a look at the story of one of the most successful technologies of the last 100 years and how it has impacted life in the UAE.
Read part four: an affection for classic cars lives on
Read part three: the age of the electric vehicle begins
Read part one: how cars came to the UAE
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Countdown to Zero exhibition will show how disease can be beaten
Countdown to Zero: Defeating Disease, an international multimedia exhibition created by the American Museum of National History in collaboration with The Carter Center, will open in Abu Dhabi a month before Reaching the Last Mile.
Opening on October 15 and running until November 15, the free exhibition opens at The Galleria mall on Al Maryah Island, and has already been seen at the Jimmy Carter Presidential Library and Museum in Atlanta, the American Museum of Natural History in New York, and the London School of Hygiene and Tropical Medicine.
How to help
Send “thenational” to the following numbers or call the hotline on: 0502955999
2289 – Dh10
2252 – Dh 50
6025 – Dh20
6027 – Dh 100
6026 – Dh 200
Dubai Rugby Sevens
November 30, December 1-2
International Vets
Christina Noble Children’s Foundation fixtures
Thursday, November 30:
10.20am, Pitch 3, v 100 World Legends Project
1.20pm, Pitch 4, v Malta Marauders
Friday, December 1:
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Artist: Coldplay
Label: Parlophone/Atlantic
Number of tracks: 10
Rating: 3/5
Mercer, the investment consulting arm of US services company Marsh & McLennan, expects its wealth division to at least double its assets under management (AUM) in the Middle East as wealth in the region continues to grow despite economic headwinds, a company official said.
Mercer Wealth, which globally has $160 billion in AUM, plans to boost its AUM in the region to $2-$3bn in the next 2-3 years from the present $1bn, said Yasir AbuShaban, a Dubai-based principal with Mercer Wealth.
“Within the next two to three years, we are looking at reaching $2 to $3 billion as a conservative estimate and we do see an opportunity to do so,” said Mr AbuShaban.
Mercer does not directly make investments, but allocates clients’ money they have discretion to, to professional asset managers. They also provide advice to clients.
“We have buying power. We can negotiate on their (client’s) behalf with asset managers to provide them lower fees than they otherwise would have to get on their own,” he added.
Mercer Wealth’s clients include sovereign wealth funds, family offices, and insurance companies among others.
From its office in Dubai, Mercer also looks after Africa, India and Turkey, where they also see opportunity for growth.
Wealth creation in Middle East and Africa (MEA) grew 8.5 per cent to $8.1 trillion last year from $7.5tn in 2015, higher than last year’s global average of 6 per cent and the second-highest growth in a region after Asia-Pacific which grew 9.9 per cent, according to consultancy Boston Consulting Group (BCG). In the region, where wealth grew just 1.9 per cent in 2015 compared with 2014, a pickup in oil prices has helped in wealth generation.
BCG is forecasting MEA wealth will rise to $12tn by 2021, growing at an annual average of 8 per cent.
Drivers of wealth generation in the region will be split evenly between new wealth creation and growth of performance of existing assets, according to BCG.
Another general trend in the region is clients’ looking for a comprehensive approach to investing, according to Mr AbuShaban.
“Institutional investors or some of the families are seeing a slowdown in the available capital they have to invest and in that sense they are looking at optimizing the way they manage their portfolios and making sure they are not investing haphazardly and different parts of their investment are working together,” said Mr AbuShaban.
Some clients also have a higher appetite for risk, given the low interest-rate environment that does not provide enough yield for some institutional investors. These clients are keen to invest in illiquid assets, such as private equity and infrastructure.
“What we have seen is a desire for higher returns in what has been a low-return environment specifically in various fixed income or bonds,” he said.
“In this environment, we have seen a de facto increase in the risk that clients are taking in things like illiquid investments, private equity investments, infrastructure and private debt, those kind of investments were higher illiquidity results in incrementally higher returns.”
The Abu Dhabi Investment Authority, one of the largest sovereign wealth funds, said in its 2016 report that has gradually increased its exposure in direct private equity and private credit transactions, mainly in Asian markets and especially in China and India. The authority’s private equity department focused on structured equities owing to “their defensive characteristics.”
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The five pillars of Islam
1. Fasting
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3. Hajj
4. Shahada
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GAC GS8 Specs
Engine: 2.0-litre 4cyl turbo
Power: 248hp at 5,200rpm
Torque: 400Nm at 1,750-4,000rpm
Transmission: 8-speed auto
Fuel consumption: 9.1L/100km
On sale: Now
Price: From Dh149,900
UAE'S%20YOUNG%20GUNS
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Uefa Nations League
League A, Group 4
Spain v England, 10.45pm (UAE)
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Key figures in the life of the fort
Sheikh Dhiyab bin Isa (ruled 1761-1793) Built Qasr Al Hosn as a watchtower to guard over the only freshwater well on Abu Dhabi island.
Sheikh Shakhbut bin Dhiyab (ruled 1793-1816) Expanded the tower into a small fort and transferred his ruling place of residence from Liwa Oasis to the fort on the island.
Sheikh Tahnoon bin Shakhbut (ruled 1818-1833) Expanded Qasr Al Hosn further as Abu Dhabi grew from a small village of palm huts to a town of more than 5,000 inhabitants.
Sheikh Khalifa bin Shakhbut (ruled 1833-1845) Repaired and fortified the fort.
Sheikh Saeed bin Tahnoon (ruled 1845-1855) Turned Qasr Al Hosn into a strong two-storied structure.
Sheikh Zayed bin Khalifa (ruled 1855-1909) Expanded Qasr Al Hosn further to reflect the emirate's increasing prominence.
Sheikh Shakhbut bin Sultan (ruled 1928-1966) Renovated and enlarged Qasr Al Hosn, adding a decorative arch and two new villas.
Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan (ruled 1966-2004) Moved the royal residence to Al Manhal palace and kept his diwan at Qasr Al Hosn.
Sources: Jayanti Maitra, www.adach.ae
Schedule:
Friday, January 12: Six fourball matches
Saturday, January 13: Six foursome (alternate shot) matches
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Engine: 2.9L twin-turbo V6
Transmission: Eight-speed automatic
Power: 450hp at 5,700rpm
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UAE - India ties
The UAE is India’s third-largest trade partner after the US and China
Annual bilateral trade between India and the UAE has crossed US$ 60 billion
The UAE is the fourth-largest exporter of crude oil for India
Indians comprise the largest community with 3.3 million residents in the UAE
Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi first visited the UAE in August 2015
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Sheikh Mohamed bin Zayed, Crown Prince of Abu Dhabi and Deputy Supreme Commander of the Armed Forces, visited India in February 2016
Sheikh Mohamed was the chief guest at India’s Republic Day celebrations in January 2017
Modi will visit Bahrain on August 24-25
Paatal Lok season two
Directors: Avinash Arun, Prosit Roy
Stars: Jaideep Ahlawat, Ishwak Singh, Lc Sekhose, Merenla Imsong
Rating: 4.5/5
