The National's Taste Test series takes you inside the latest restaurants just before they open their doors, and asks chefs which dishes they would recommend – and what makes them special – for you to try (or, indeed, avoid).
Here is a preview of the menu at Bar des Pres, a French-Asian dining spot by celebrity chef Cyril Lignac that opens at ICD Brookfield Place in Dubai on Saturday.
Inside Bar des Pres
Sitting beside Cyril Lignac at his restaurant, which is humming with the quiet chaos of pre-opening preparations, I quickly understand why he is France's culinary darling.
“I grew up in the countryside in the South of France and I don't speak a lot of English so bear with me,” he says, leaning in conspiratorially.
Years of top-notch cooking, as well as his formidable television fame, have not dimmed Lignac's humility. He is bringing Bar des Pres from Paris and London to the UAE. With his first Dubai venture, he admits to some nerves, acknowledging the city's increasingly competitive dining scene.
“Dubai is an amazing place, and I feel lucky to have the chance of opening a restaurant here, but I'm also aware of the competition here because of so many amazing chefs from all over the world,” he says. “We'll do our jobs as best as we can, and we'll see.”
Part of this humility is rooted in Lignac's beginnings in Aveyron, where he lived with his mother, who worked at a hospital, and his father, who is a carpenter. Lignac says he was not gifted academically – “I loved school, but school didn't love me!” – and turned to cooking to compensate.
“Whenever we had family over, my mother would cook and I'd see how her food made people look at her with respect and regard,” he says. “Maybe if I learnt how to cook, people will see me too, I thought.”
This motivation has guided Lignac's career over the years, under the tutelage of renowned French chefs such as Alain Passard and the Pourcel brothers. In 2005, he opened Le Quinzieme in Paris, which earned one Michelin star and set the pace for his restaurant empire, which also includes patisseries.
The Dubai venture blends Parisian chic with Dubai glamour, sitting on the 51st floor of IDC Brookfield Place in the Dubai International Financial Centre. Luxurious velvet finishes, opulent marble tables and vibrant embroidered draping dominate the venue, which has majestic views of the bustling district.
Lignac surveys it all like a proud parent, his sharp eyes catching details to be ironed out even as he speaks to me. The food is a curated combination of French and East Asian flavours, with dishes such as Wagyu sando, langoustine ravioli and an extensive selection of sushi and sashimi.
“I'm bringing recipes from our Paris and London locations, but maybe we'll add dishes specific to Dubai,” Lignac says. He adds that he is excited to learn more about diners from this part of the world. The dessert menu is worth focusing on, as the chef says he would choose to cook sweet over savoury dishes for the rest of his life.
For now, though, these are the three dishes and one dessert he recommends from the Bar des Pres menu.
Crab and avocado galette with Madras curry
“This is my signature dish that everyone loves back home,” says Lignac, who is visibly proud of the craftsmanship involved in the gallete. “You have to be very patient in slicing the avocado for the top part,” he adds. The avocado sits on a bed of crab and mayonnaise and Madras curry. “We add small bites of green apple for a little bit of acidity too.”
Taste test: The delicate sweetness of the crab is complemented well by the buttery richness of the avocado. The crisp of the thin galette adds a satisfying crunch to the dish, while the Madras curry creates an aromatic depth, subtly cutting through the creaminess with a warm kick. The presentation of this dish is so striking, it deserves a shot for the 'Gram before taking a bite.
Beef gyoza
Lignac's passion for Japan is palpable throughout our conversation. “I improved my gyoza recipe from my time in Japan,” he says. “It's a little bit crispy on the outside, but soft inside. I see it like a bolognese, but without wine and tomatoes. There's soya sauce, a bit of yuzu and sesame oil, and we let it sit in the fridge to fully marinate.”
Taste test: Refining humble classics is a recurring theme in Lignac's culinary repertoire. The dumplings are perfectly seared, with crispy edges and a tender underside. The beef filling has a depth of flavour thanks to a spice mix. This makes the dipping sauce crucial to fully enjoying the dish, as it adds some much-needed zest.
Langoustine ravioli, classic bisque
“This is a classic ravioli with langoustine inside, and we serve it with a velvet bisque,” Lignac says, breaking midway into a brief lecture about the tradition of drying Espelette pepper in France.
Taste test: The ravioli is a masterclass in elegance and restraint, with the perfectly cooked pasta encasing langoustine that bursts with oceanic sweetness. Resting in a pool of bisque foam, the dish is only subtly accented with notes of cream, making it light and fresh as opposed to cloying. A drizzle of powdered Espelette pepper adds colour and a mild kick to the dish, and is a clever nod to its French origins.
Berry pavlova, raspberry sorbet, fresh strawberries
“I cook the meringue first and set it aside,” Lignac says, highlighting that “timing is crucial” for this dessert. “At the last minute, we assemble it on a plate with the ice cream, the fruit and the fresh Chantilly to finish.”
Taste test: Lignac's dessert mastery shines through in this pavlova, which is a symphony of lightness and vibrancy. The pavlova itself is crisp on the outside, with a cloudlike centre that melts in the mouth. The berries and the sorbet add a delicate tart profile, providing a delightful counterpoint to the sweet meringue.
