As a food writer, I get to sample some of the UAE's best restaurants as part of my job. But even for my experienced palate – when I'm not living on Chinese takeaway and instant noodles, that is – eating at Cantonese powerhouse T'ang Court is a revelation.
Located within the historic Langham hotel in Kowloon, the restaurant is one of only seven in Hong Kong with three Michelin stars and has been dazzling diners since 1988.
Where to sit and what to expect
I'm ushered into the intimate-but-grand dining space, with its plush fabrics, elegant table sets and eye-catching Chinese art adorning the walls. Warm gold and rich burgundy tones dominate the space. Some tables are partitioned with intricate wooden lattice panels, offering privacy to those who prefer it.
The layout feels spacious yet intimate. The restaurant might be located in Tsim Sha Tsui, one of the busiest districts of Hong Kong, with casual eateries and eclectic shops lining the roads, but its understated luxury is perfect for those who want to escape Kowloon's otherwise vibrant street scene.
The menu
The kitchen is helmed by chef Wong Chi Fai, who has prepared a halal-friendly set menu on the evening my dining group from Dubai visits. Cantonese cuisine, as traditionally practised in the Guangdong region of mainland China, is not typically associated with being halal. But then this not your typical restaurant.
The evening starts with three appetisers, providing a sneak peek into T'ang Court's culinary excellence. Chilled fresh scallops are served with citrus honey, with the briny pop of the mollusks subdued by the pulp of the fruit. I'm not a big fan of celery, but the crispy-fried bean curd skin roll has turned me into a convert. My favourite of the three is the fried diced codfish with honey syrup, with the sweet darkened sauce beautifully coating the crispy fish.
Next comes golden-fried shrimp toast, which is a masterclass of flavour and texture, and served with a side of freshly made sweet chilli sauce. At this point, it's become apparent that everything I think I knew about Chinese cuisine is an affront to what it really is. The spice in this dish is light and subtle, with individual ingredients allowed to shine on their own.
Two more seafood dishes arrive: sauteed sliced grouper with asparagus, and stir-friend lobster with spring onions, red onions and shallots. Again, the ocean's bounties have been treated with masterful cooking, playing on texture and flavours.
The next course is the one I am most excited about. Soup, after all, is a cornerstone of Cantonese cuisine. T'ang Court's version is a double-boiled cauliflower and fig fungus. It is delicate, warming and restorative (apparently the ingredients are good for your skin).
Double boiling is a time-honoured method of extracting deep flavours from soups, while producing a crystal-clear broth. This soup is a perfect palate-cleanser for the main courses: pan-friend sliced lamb with mushrooms, coriander and shallot, and braised and crispy rice with porcini.
The lamb is cooked to perfection with its vegetable accompaniments providing an aromatic aftertaste, while the rice dish is an interplay of textures, with its soft grains and crispy ceps. I only wish there were more on the plate.
After a high-flying experience with the appetisers and mains, the dessert is underwhelming. It is double-boiled papaya soup with dried peach gum and rock sugar. I grew up in the Philippines, so I'm used to hot desserts, but I don't get the allure of this concoction. The gelatinous peach gum doesn't add anything to the subtle sweetness of the papaya soup. Sure, it's a palate-cleanser, but it pales in comparison to the masterful main dishes.
Standout dish
I can safely say I've now eaten the best “fried” chicken in the world, and it's right here at Michelin-epitomised T'ang Court. It's not everyday that a dish as seemingly simple as crispy salted chicken leaves me speechless, but the restaurant manages to elevate this dish into a culinary marvel.
The skin is a sight to behold, golden and glistening. I can almost hear the crisp sound even before biting into it – and when I do, the amber coating shatters in my mouth like delicate glass, a symphony of crunch that gives way to the most tender, juicy meat within.
The seasoning is subtle but purposeful, and there is barely any grease and heaviness perhaps because the chicken is not deep-fried, rather the skin is doused repeatedly in hot oil to achieve the crispiness. This dish is a testament to T'ang Court's obsession with simplicity executed flawlessly.
The baked stuff crab shell is also noteworthy, with its indulgent flavour profile that is creamy but not cloying. The sweetness of the crabmeat is front and centre, beautifully balanced with the right amount of umami.
Price point and contact information
Tasting menus range from Dh700 to Dh1,200. T'ang Court in The Langham Hong Kong, is open from noon to 3pm and 6pm to 10pm. Reservations are recommended and can be made by contacting +852 2132 7898 or tang.court@langhamhotels.com.
This review was conducted at the invitation of the restaurant
