The United Nations Tourism World Forum – centred around “gastronomy tourism” was held in Bahrain this week, marking its first outing in the Middle East. Over the course of two days, a number of speakers shared their expertise, opinions and anecdotes as to how chefs, restaurants and countries at large can attract food-first travellers or gastro-tourists.
From the importance of creativity and tailoring culinary experiences, to the role of awards, such as the Michelin Guide and World’s 50 Best Restaurants, the experts waxed eloquent on ways to brand destinations as food hubs for international visitors. Some touched upon the appeal of seasonal produce, others shared circular solutions to reduce food waste and most agreed that local and home-grown operators are the way forward as gastro-tourists increasingly seek out a combination of culinary and cultural experiences.
But what can you – as a foodie and a traveller – do to enhance your journey as well as better serve the destination you visit? We chat to chefs, tourism experts and ministers alike for their top tips.
Be informed
“Did you know that the kingdom of Bahrain has been a trade hub since its Dilmun civilisation days, from 5,000 years ago? Or that it connected the Indus Valley to Mesopotamia? Both facts that plays a huge part in its gastronomy scene, with most ingredients and recipes influenced by different cultures that have now come into fruition as Bahraini cuisine,” says Fatima Al Sairafi, minister of tourism of the Kingdom of Bahrain.
Her point – and pro tip – is crystal clear: rather than focusing only on the dishes and restaurants a country can offer, tourists also have the opportunity and responsibility to learn about the history and culture of the places they visit.
“You can’t truly understand the present of a place if you don’t understand its past,” adds Al Sairafi. “You will find internationally renowned dishes and cuisines anywhere, but explore the traditional cuisine of the country you visit so you can get a taste, quite literally, of what it offers and why.”
It’s a point echoed by Sandra Carvao, UN Tourism’s director of market intelligence, policies and competitiveness. “Research is key when it comes to travel, and where you eat is part of this self-education. Inform yourself about the culture of a place such that you’re embedded in it before you go and learn from it once you’re there.”
Doing so, she suggests, will take you off the beaten path, which is also a sure-shot way of not contributing to overtourism. “There are so many interesting culinary experiences to discover, from cheese and olive oil factories to restaurants set in rural areas or on uncrowded mountains.”
Be open-minded
Indian chef Deepanker “DK” Khosla helms the kitchen at Haoma in Thailand. The restaurant achieved a rare feat when it won both a Michelin star and Michelin’s Green Star at the same ceremony in 2022. It is lauded for DK’s vision of creating an urban farm and zero-waste eatery in the heart of the concrete jungle that is Bangkok.
Over his 17-year-strong career, the chef says he has spent up to 12 hours a day working to provide his diners with a masterful meal that offers a glimpse into neo-Indian cuisine. Think crab pepper fry with crab foam; scallop bhelpuri tart; and lamb served on cumin and mustard mashed potatoes with fermented black eggplant, beetroot gel and nihari jus made from bone marrow and tallow.
This is what he hopes for from his diners in return. “If you walk into Haoma and you’re looking for food that has no spice in it, or if you’re not interested in the story behind a dish, or you want to wrap up in an hour and go home, you’re in the wrong place,” says the chef. “Come to the restaurant if you believe cuisine is more than consumption, food is more than satiation and dishes have the power to nourish the mind and soul as well as the body. Come here with an open mind, so the three and a half hours and $200 you spend allow you to appreciate the art of the man who has spent decades to curate this experience for you,” he adds.
For true-blue foodies, variety is the spice of life. Rather than taking this to only mean a different fancy restaurant each evening whilst on holiday, gastro-tourists should push the envelope further, suggests Basma Al Mayman, UN Tourism’s regional director for the Middle East.
“Gastronomy has come to mean more than just fine dining. Being open to sampling local cuisines is your contribution to the country you’re visiting. Go to a high-end restaurant for sure, but also visit the corner bakery. Refine your search for not only ‘restaurants near me’, and seek out street food bylanes, pop-ups in a seasonal festival and eateries that may not have more than four tables, too,” says Al Mayman, adding: “We are living in one big small world, and sitting around one big small table.”
Be conscientious
Tala Bashmi refuses to serve salmon, sea bass and tuna on her menu. While the Bahraini chef recently announced she was renouncing her role as head chef at her award-winning restaurant Fusions by Tala, her ethos remains unchanged.
Bashmi, who was appointed as a UN Tourism Special Ambassador for Gastronomy at the forum in Bahrain, says: “As an island nation, Bahrain has amazing seafood. But salmon, for example, is not a local fish. To catch one tuna fish, you get hundreds of by-catch that dies or goes to waste. Why should I serve these when we have other options?”
She says re-educating palates is always top of mind for her. “How diners perceive food, sustainability and waste is important. Little changes go a long way, and I hope gastro-tourists shift their mentality to enjoy every morsel of food that is in front of them rather than come with the attitude of ‘my table has to be full of food.’”
Fellow Bahraini Rashid Al Khalifa and founder of Peninsula vegetable and dairy farm in Bahrain, comes to the conscientious gastro-tourist discussion from another angle: Farmers’ markets.
“Go to as many farmers’ markets as you can during your holiday, figure out what produce is in season and eat what’s grown locally,” he says. “Supporting people with their heart on the line – be it a local producer or chef – will not only help them, but also make you feel good. If you can sample local and seasonal delicacies, great. But even if not, seek out chefs from the region you have travelled to and sample their interpretation of the country’s food.”
Finally, says Carvao: “Souvenirs aside, always buy local produce to take back home with you. It’s a win-win way to leave a positive impact behind.”
