The National's Taste Test series takes you inside the latest restaurants just before they open their doors, and ask chefs what dishes they would recommend – and what makes them special – for you to try (or, indeed, avoid).
Here is a preview of the menu at Argianos, a French-Italian dining spot that opens at Conrad Dubai on Thursday.
Inside Argianos
Combining French and Italian cooking comes naturally for chef Alessandro Bertinetti. He was born and brought up in Turin – the capital of Piedmont in northern Italy – which is close to the French border and renowned for its stunning baroque architecture and remarkable food history.
“We share a lot of ingredients and recipes,” he tells The National, revealing they will be at the core of the new Dubai restaurant. “It's less about technique and more about getting the best ingredients from Italy and France to use here.”
The menu leans more to the Italian side, with classic dishes such as risotto cooked in a creamy roasted pumpkin base with balsamic reduction and Parmesan cream. But the French influence comes up now and again, evidenced by the Australian Wagyu chateaubriand, which refers to a specific cut of beef named after a French literary figure, Francois-Rene de Chateaubriand, who's said to have particularly enjoyed it.
The restaurant sits on the mezzanine at Conrad Dubai, in the segment of Sheikh Zayed Road that's notorious for its rush-hour traffic. Most upscale dining spots are on the other side in Downtown Dubai, so Argianos' arrival in the area could prove refreshing – even as Dubai, in general, welcomes a new French or Italian spot regularly.
Argianos' interiors have echoes of baroque design, owing to its Italian roots, with massive angel sculptures at the entrance and frescoed segments on the ceiling. Tables are clad in white and paired with dark green leather chairs.
Bertinetti, who's previously worked in Michelin-starred venues in his home country, recommends the following dishes.
Saint-Jacque carpaccio
“This is supposed to be a very fresh dish,” he says. “We cut the scallops very thinly, marinating them with some orange juice, oil, salt and pepper. We add some caviar on top, as well as a few garnishes. The point of French, but mostly Italian, cooking is that you don't touch the ingredients that much. You don't cover it with spices, but allow them to shine.”
Taste test: The thinly sliced scallops shine through in this classic carpaccio. The orange juice adds the tinge of acidity the dish needs, but it's delicate enough not to be overpowering. The briny pop of the caviar adds a layer of indulgence to it, locking in its finesse as a fitting start to a meal here.
Veal tonne
“This is a classic Italian dish. We roast the veal tenderloin and slowly cook it in the oven at a very controlled temperature so it stays nice and pink,” says chef Bertinetti. “We then serve it with a blend of tuna, capers and egg sauce that we simply put on top of the meat.”
Taste test: Perhaps my favourite dish of the meal, the veal is cooked beautifully with the rich tuna sauce providing a flavour punch. I'm not usually a fan of cold starters, but I'd order this again. There's something comforting about its flavour and simplicity, with the chef's penchant to stick to tradition working well for the satisfying dish.
Charred octopus black olives and roasted cherry tomatoes
“When we get the octopus, we take the tentacles, season it a bit with just salt and pepper before vacuum-sealing it for cooking,” he says. “We steam it before putting it in the grill with some light seasoning. As you've seen, the focus is on the ingredients. Not much is on the plate.”
Taste test: While the octopus is cooked and seasoned well, with just the right level of chewiness, the charring is a bit overdone, leaving some parts of the tentacle slightly bitter. The trimmings add depth of flavour, however, especially the tomatoes that provide balance to the richness of the octopus. The small blobs of mash potato are a delight, making me wish it had more of these.
Sole meuniere with white asparagus
“We played with the meuniere a bit by making the sauce lighter,” says Bertinetti. “Instead of having a heavy sauce, we still use the same ingredients of capers, lemon and butter, but we remove the flour. We also don't put the actual capers in, but instead, make a powder out of them and dust it on top so it's not heavy on the taste and smell.”
Taste test: The chef's adjustments create a well-balanced main course, with the perfectly cooked Dover intact but not dry. The accompanying asparagus, perhaps simple in nature, is the ideal vehicle to soak up the light lemon butter sauce, making each bite a satisfying combination of textures. It's a dish that is still hearty and indulgent despite being light.
Argianos opens on October 3, and will operate from 4pm to 11am Monday to Saturday. For reservations, call 04 444 7444
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