Bisou review: Romantic restaurant next to Dubai Opera lives up to its name

Nestled just a stone’s throw from Dubai Opera in the heart of Downtown, Bisou is a restaurant that does exactly what it says on the tin.

Its name translates from the French to “kiss”, and the target audience is self-evident. Bisou's location alone, so close to the emirate’s most prestigious theatre venue, lends itself to being a good date spot.

Where to sit, what to expect

The entrance to Bisou is relatively understated within the context of its location but, upon opening one of the two large doors, a labyrinth of French-Arabesque design awaits.

There is an open-plan kitchen while drooping curtains line the walls, seemingly paying homage to the looming presence of the nearby opera house. It’s very much a classic-meets-modern decor, but one that provides a homely feel.

A sprawling staircase is something of a centrepiece and it is here my dining partner and I are taken as we settle down in our upstairs seats.

The menu

This is a restaurant that wants to stand out from the crowd. In line with chef Aleksandr Loschinin’s philosophy of trying to “step out of his comfort zone”, the menu’s opening page quickly defines what the place is all about.

Dubbing French cuisine “the rockstar of the foodie world”, it adds that Bisou's dishes have a “dash of oriental magic” from the Middle East to create a “sensory symphony of flavour”.

What’s more, a literary theme with elegant references to classic French novels, such as The Count of Monte Cristo and The Three Musketeers, providing a talking point for visiting diners.

The staff are attentive, friendly and knowledgable. So impressed by the passion with which our server, Vanessa, recommends her favourite dishes, my dining partner and I follow her lead and we are not disappointed.

To start, we share a selection of beef tartare served with French fries; muhammara with artichoke, spice oil and walnut, which is served with brioche bread; and a plate of Uzbek tomatoes alongside tzatziki and basil.

The beef tartare, chosen as something of a comfortable crowd-pleaser, delivers on exactly that. As delicious as it is, though, it is outshone by the muhammara and Uzbek tomatoes, which define what this restaurant is trying to be.

The muhammara has a distinctly Arabic feel blended with the more European flavour emanating from the artichoke and walnut. Alongside the brioche, it is a comfortable, homely dish to kick-start a dinner. The tomatoes, meanwhile, are magnificently fresh, juicy and sweet. With such wonderful raw ingredients, simplicity is king and the delicate serving of tzatziki brings out the eloquence of the tomato flavour.

Our main course, lamb kebab with tomatoes, also blends the two styles, as the traditional Middle Eastern dish is served with fresh black truffle on a bed of rocket salad and black peppercorn sauce. Vanessa recommends a side dish of the broccoli served with smoked cheese and oriental pesto, which ends up stealing the show. This is a side to complement any main course on Bisou’s menu.

By this point we are suitably well-fed and satisfied with what has been an exquisite dinner but, of course, there is more to come. For dessert, I opt for the Bisou honey cake, while my dining partner goes for the cream brulee.

Looking a bit like a Belgian waffle, the cake has a doughy exterior and the flavour from the honey is blended with prune. It’s unusual and truly delicious, albeit a little on the filling side.

As for the cream brulee, this classic French dessert is served exactly as you’d expect but with a delicate Middle Eastern touch to it, as the addition of pomegranate sorbet and fruit salad makes it refreshing as well as comforting.

Bisou sets out to break the mould, and succeeds. It blends two cooking styles, but does so with elegance and simplicity at its core in a venue that’s perfect to visit with your better half, be it your first date or your 51st.

A chat with the chef

Head chef Loschinin was born in Russia’s Ural Mountains and has spent 16 years in the kitchen.

Asked what his favourite ingredient to cook with is, he quickly replies “tomatoes” with a smile. “We prioritised finding perfect tomatoes here, incorporating them into many dishes on our main and breakfast menus,” he says.

“The smell and taste of ripe tomatoes transport me back to my childhood, and I love sharing this experience with our guests.”

The chef is not afraid to admit his cooking style has evolved over the years, saying it took him “a long time to define and evolve” it and explaining that he used to “experiment with bold, unconventional combinations”.

“Now, my focus is on creating food that's enjoyable every day,” he says. “I realised it's more fulfilling to cook dishes I want to eat regularly, not just as a new taste experience. While my previous style was popular and drew crowds, I chose to shift my approach and step out of my comfort zone.

“Today, we still explore interesting combinations and seasonal ingredients, but we aim for balance. A full restaurant from morning until closing energises us, driving us to continually improve and innovate.”

For vegetarians, chef Loschinin recommends the cold eggplant soup; for meat lovers he picks the smoked duck salad or lamb shoulder; while for those favouring seafood, his go-to dish is the white asparagus with Cantabrian anchovies. As for dessert, he says the honey cake or pavlova are bankers.

Price point and contact information

Starters range from Dh30 to Dh295, mains are Dh120 to Dh850, while desserts are Dh50 to Dh90.

Bisou is open daily, from 9pm to midnight. Reservations can be made by contacting 058 140 6888.

This review was conducted at the invitation of the restaurant