Update: Qabu by Paco Morales has permanently closed
Haute cuisine, history and heaps of Arab heritage are served at Qabu, the brainchild of Paco Morales.
And less than a year after it opened in Dubai, the restaurant was included in the Michelin Guide Dubai following a glittering ceremony at One&Only One Za’abeel, where Qabu is.
Andalusian chef Morales, whose Noor restaurant in Cordoba holds three Michelin stars, brings the cultural connection between the Spanish region and the Middle East together at the restaurant in Dubai.
Science, trade, arts and the ways of life were moulded by a shared religion and, via his mini-kitchen time machine, he’s whipping together his versions of the past on a plate. With a hungry mind and curiosity piqued, I head to the cosy corner of The Link, Dubai's famed cantilever, for a lesson to savour.
Where to sit and what to expect
The Link is big. Enormous even. It’s 100 metres above ground, 230 metres long and has the world’s longest cantilever (67 metres). It plays host to 10 restaurants and bars, with some of the world’s top chefs jostling for space and plaudits – Anne-Sophie Pic, whose venues have earned 10 stars over the years, making her the most decorated female chef; Bo Songvisava and husband Dylan James, who have a star in Bangkok; and Tetsuya Wakuda, who has two stars at his restaurant in Singapore and now one in Dubai.
They all spill out into the space, which has become half palatial food hall and half bucket-list destination already. Qabu sits at the furthest end from the lift, meaning I can tick off the experience while working on the step count. StreetXO by the world’s best chef Dabiz Munoz sits directly beneath on floor four. While his venue is loud, brash and punk rock, The Link, and Qabu in particular, is like a classical violinist playing Vivaldi’s Four Seasons metres away.
The restaurant itself is all muted terracotta colours with swish leather-style furnishings. There is a curved open kitchen, lightwood detailing and an extraordinarily kitsch statement chandelier. It’s surrounded by triple-height windows that soak the space in light, or bring the twinkling skyscrapers in at night.
It’s simply too gorgeous and contemporary, but dinner at Qabu begins with a dose of tradition from the Middle Ages, as we’re warmly greeted and shown to the bar for a pre-dinner drink (the list of mocktails is excellent) before our waiter brings over a gold-plated jug of water to begin the “handwashing ceremony”.
No, it’s not a quick trip back to the depths of Covid: it’s a ritual that dates back to the beginnings of Islam – and it’s a nice touch to begin.
The menu
While there is an a la carte menu, this is experiential fine dining and that means the real fun is found in the chef's set menu. Titled Al Andalus, it is an 11-course journey (though a smaller version is in the works) through sweet, savoury, smokiness, shellfish, sorbets, sponges and so on.
The aim is to share the story of the region and the chef's childhood in Cordoba, where Noor, meaning light in Arabic, is. Before getting into the dishes and their origins, the plates, bowls and cups they're served on are worth a mention. They're stunning hand-painted Moorish mosaics and patterns synonymous with the region's aesthetics.
For the dishes, highlights include little nuggets of details such as the amuse-bouche of turmeric toast topped with salt-cured lamb, which harks back to the days when the seasoning was more expensive than gold. It's served with an aubergine bun that has a date and sugarcane jelly on top. The latter was one of the first crops cultivated on an industrial level in Egypt after being introduced in the seventh century.
The first sea bass dish represents the significant trade routes that converged in Al Andulas a millennia ago, with tomatoes (first imported from South America in the 15th century before becoming a cornerstone of Mediterranean cuisine) served with a delicate piece of fish that's cured in a marinade of vinegar and olive oil, better known as escabeche, which is believed to have been born in the region. There are notes of mandarin, too, to highlight its Asian connection.
As Morales' lesson goes on, his standard of cooking soars. In the middle of service, while still in the throes of the savoury courses, there's a reminder of his three-star pedigree built on dividing opinion. Pistachio is served as a cream, or “karim”, and an ice cream version, alongside smoked herring caviar, black bread crumble and green apple.
It's Noor's speciality dish and is presented on a Moorish-style painted dish. It's painfully pretty and sparks the sort of conversations more commonly overheard at art galleries – “Oh yes, I see what he's trying to do here; do you think security will let me touch it?”
There are dishes of sauteed lobster (which is the best of the night); roasted beef loin (ask for a little more cooking if you don't want yours blue); and more sea bass.
Desserts of a fake mint sponge and a quartet of Qabu's version of petit four end the night. The former celebrates the history of chocolate's lesser-known cousin carob, while the latter puts star anise, cinnamon, coffee and dates centre stage.
It's a two-and-a-half-hour dive through the history books and by the time I come out of the other side, all I know is that, if all classes were taught like this, I'd probably have a PhD in history by now.
Standout dish
Lobster, butter and sheep's cheese? Whichever genius first put these together deserves to be up there with Aristotle or Archimedes. Though it's Morales' elegant and dainty precision that pulls it off to aplomb.
The lobster is so soft, it's almost translucent (no, it's not raw). It sits on a bed of emulsified butter and six cubes of Manchego surround it. It is literally sunshine on a plate.
Price point and contact information
The Al Andalus set menu is Dh895 for food only; a la carte prices range from Dh150 to Dh250 for starters; Dh330 to Dh370 for mains; and Dh95 for desserts.
Qabu is open daily from 6pm to midnight. For reservations, call 04 666 1777.
This review was conducted at the invitation of the restaurant
The specs
Engine: 2.0-litre 4cyl turbo
Power: 261hp at 5,500rpm
Torque: 405Nm at 1,750-3,500rpm
Transmission: 9-speed auto
Fuel consumption: 6.9L/100km
On sale: Now
Price: From Dh117,059
Disturbing%20facts%20and%20figures
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3E51%25%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20of%20parents%20in%20the%20UAE%20feel%20like%20they%20are%20failing%20within%20the%20first%20year%20of%20parenthood%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3E57%25%20vs%2043%25%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20is%20the%20number%20of%20mothers%20versus%20the%20number%20of%20fathers%20who%20feel%20they%E2%80%99re%20failing%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3E28%25%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20of%20parents%20believe%20social%20media%20adds%20to%20the%20pressure%20they%20feel%20to%20be%20perfect%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3E55%25%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20of%20parents%20cannot%20relate%20to%20parenting%20images%20on%20social%20media%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3E67%25%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20of%20parents%20wish%20there%20were%20more%20honest%20representations%20of%20parenting%20on%20social%20media%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3E53%25%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20of%20parents%20admit%20they%20put%20on%20a%20brave%20face%20rather%20than%20being%20honest%20due%20to%20fear%20of%20judgment%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cspan%20style%3D%22font-size%3A%2014px%3B%22%3ESource%3A%20YouGov%3C%2Fspan%3E%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
WHEN TO GO:
September to November or March to May; this is when visitors are most likely to see what they’ve come for.
WHERE TO STAY:
Meghauli Serai, A Taj Safari - Chitwan National Park resort (tajhotels.com) is a one-hour drive from Bharatpur Airport with stays costing from Dh1,396 per night, including taxes and breakfast. Return airport transfers cost from Dh661.
HOW TO GET THERE:
Etihad Airways regularly flies from Abu Dhabi to Kathmandu from around Dh1,500 per person return, including taxes. Buddha Air (buddhaair.com) and Yeti Airlines (yetiairlines.com) fly from Kathmandu to Bharatpur several times a day from about Dh660 return and the flight takes just 20 minutes. Driving is possible but the roads are hilly which means it will take you five or six hours to travel 148 kilometres.
COMPANY%20PROFILE%20
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Some of Darwish's last words
"They see their tomorrows slipping out of their reach. And though it seems to them that everything outside this reality is heaven, yet they do not want to go to that heaven. They stay, because they are afflicted with hope." - Mahmoud Darwish, to attendees of the Palestine Festival of Literature, 2008
His life in brief: Born in a village near Galilee, he lived in exile for most of his life and started writing poetry after high school. He was arrested several times by Israel for what were deemed to be inciteful poems. Most of his work focused on the love and yearning for his homeland, and he was regarded the Palestinian poet of resistance. Over the course of his life, he published more than 30 poetry collections and books of prose, with his work translated into more than 20 languages. Many of his poems were set to music by Arab composers, most significantly Marcel Khalife. Darwish died on August 9, 2008 after undergoing heart surgery in the United States. He was later buried in Ramallah where a shrine was erected in his honour.
Real estate tokenisation project
Dubai launched the pilot phase of its real estate tokenisation project last month.
The initiative focuses on converting real estate assets into digital tokens recorded on blockchain technology and helps in streamlining the process of buying, selling and investing, the Dubai Land Department said.
Dubai’s real estate tokenisation market is projected to reach Dh60 billion ($16.33 billion) by 2033, representing 7 per cent of the emirate’s total property transactions, according to the DLD.
How to tell if your child is being bullied at school
Sudden change in behaviour or displays higher levels of stress or anxiety
Shows signs of depression or isolation
Ability to sleep well diminishes
Academic performance begins to deteriorate
Changes in eating habits
Struggles to concentrate
Refuses to go to school
Behaviour changes and is aggressive towards siblings
Begins to use language they do not normally use
$1,000 award for 1,000 days on madrasa portal
Daily cash awards of $1,000 dollars will sweeten the Madrasa e-learning project by tempting more pupils to an education portal to deepen their understanding of math and sciences.
School children are required to watch an educational video each day and answer a question related to it. They then enter into a raffle draw for the $1,000 prize.
“We are targeting everyone who wants to learn. This will be $1,000 for 1,000 days so there will be a winner every day for 1,000 days,” said Sara Al Nuaimi, project manager of the Madrasa e-learning platform that was launched on Tuesday by the Vice President and Ruler of Dubai, to reach Arab pupils from kindergarten to grade 12 with educational videos.
“The objective of the Madrasa is to become the number one reference for all Arab students in the world. The 5,000 videos we have online is just the beginning, we have big ambitions. Today in the Arab world there are 50 million students. We want to reach everyone who is willing to learn.”
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Closing the loophole on sugary drinks
As The National reported last year, non-fizzy sugared drinks were not covered when the original tax was introduced in 2017. Sports drinks sold in supermarkets were found to contain, on average, 20 grams of sugar per 500ml bottle.
The non-fizzy drink AriZona Iced Tea contains 65 grams of sugar – about 16 teaspoons – per 680ml can. The average can costs about Dh6, which would rise to Dh9.
Drinks such as Starbucks Bottled Mocha Frappuccino contain 31g of sugar in 270ml, while Nescafe Mocha in a can contains 15.6g of sugar in a 240ml can.
Flavoured water, long-life fruit juice concentrates, pre-packaged sweetened coffee drinks fall under the ‘sweetened drink’ category
Not taxed:
Freshly squeezed fruit juices, ground coffee beans, tea leaves and pre-prepared flavoured milkshakes do not come under the ‘sweetened drink’ band.
SPECS
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EEngine%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E2.4-litre%204-cylinder%20turbo%20hybrid%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EPower%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20366hp%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ETorque%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E550Nm%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ETransmission%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3ESix-speed%20auto%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EPrice%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20From%20Dh360%2C000%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EAvailable%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3ENow%0D%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
Why it pays to compare
A comparison of sending Dh20,000 from the UAE using two different routes at the same time - the first direct from a UAE bank to a bank in Germany, and the second from the same UAE bank via an online platform to Germany - found key differences in cost and speed. The transfers were both initiated on January 30.
Route 1: bank transfer
The UAE bank charged Dh152.25 for the Dh20,000 transfer. On top of that, their exchange rate margin added a difference of around Dh415, compared with the mid-market rate.
Total cost: Dh567.25 - around 2.9 per cent of the total amount
Total received: €4,670.30
Route 2: online platform
The UAE bank’s charge for sending Dh20,000 to a UK dirham-denominated account was Dh2.10. The exchange rate margin cost was Dh60, plus a Dh12 fee.
Total cost: Dh74.10, around 0.4 per cent of the transaction
Total received: €4,756
The UAE bank transfer was far quicker – around two to three working days, while the online platform took around four to five days, but was considerably cheaper. In the online platform transfer, the funds were also exposed to currency risk during the period it took for them to arrive.
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
Lexus LX700h specs
Engine: 3.4-litre twin-turbo V6 plus supplementary electric motor
Power: 464hp at 5,200rpm
Torque: 790Nm from 2,000-3,600rpm
Transmission: 10-speed auto
Fuel consumption: 11.7L/100km
On sale: Now
Price: From Dh590,000
UAE central contracts
Full time contracts
Rohan Mustafa, Ahmed Raza, Mohammed Usman, Chirag Suri, Mohammed Boota, Sultan Ahmed, Zahoor Khan, Junaid Siddique, Waheed Ahmed, Zawar Farid
Part time contracts
Aryan Lakra, Ansh Tandon, Karthik Meiyappan, Rahul Bhatia, Alishan Sharafu, CP Rizwaan, Basil Hameed, Matiullah, Fahad Nawaz, Sanchit Sharma
more from Janine di Giovanni
Living in...
This article is part of a guide on where to live in the UAE. Our reporters will profile some of the country’s most desirable districts, provide an estimate of rental prices and introduce you to some of the residents who call each area home.
'Munich: The Edge of War'
Director: Christian Schwochow
Starring: George MacKay, Jannis Niewohner, Jeremy Irons
Rating: 3/5
Nepotism is the name of the game
Salman Khan’s father, Salim Khan, is one of Bollywood’s most legendary screenwriters. Through his partnership with co-writer Javed Akhtar, Salim is credited with having paved the path for the Indian film industry’s blockbuster format in the 1970s. Something his son now rules the roost of. More importantly, the Salim-Javed duo also created the persona of the “angry young man” for Bollywood megastar Amitabh Bachchan in the 1970s, reflecting the angst of the average Indian. In choosing to be the ordinary man’s “hero” as opposed to a thespian in new Bollywood, Salman Khan remains tightly linked to his father’s oeuvre. Thanks dad.
MATCH INFO
Manchester United 2
(Martial 30', McTominay 90 6')
Manchester City 0
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
More on Quran memorisation:
The five pillars of Islam
1. Fasting
2. Prayer
3. Hajj
4. Shahada
5. Zakat
Volvo ES90 Specs
Engine: Electric single motor (96kW), twin motor (106kW) and twin motor performance (106kW)
Power: 333hp, 449hp, 680hp
Torque: 480Nm, 670Nm, 870Nm
On sale: Later in 2025 or early 2026, depending on region
Price: Exact regional pricing TBA
The specs
AT4 Ultimate, as tested
Engine: 6.2-litre V8
Power: 420hp
Torque: 623Nm
Transmission: 10-speed automatic
Price: From Dh330,800 (Elevation: Dh236,400; AT4: Dh286,800; Denali: Dh345,800)
On sale: Now
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
