There's nothing quite like the international culinary options for foodies in Dubai.
That's why it comes as no surprise that Mariam Shevardnadze, co-founder of Qartuli, found a home for authentic Georgian cuisine in the heart of Downtown Dubai.
Its name – meaning leisure – perfectly encapsulates the experience of savouring each flavourful dish in a setting akin to a cosy Georgian home. And while there is no dearth of Georgian venues in the UAE, Qartuli stands out for its approach to preserving heritage, flavours and traditions, as I discover on a visit to the restaurant on Burj Khalifa Boulevard behind Dubai Mall.
Where to sit and what to expect
Diners are presented with two seating options – an open-plan yet cosy interior dining area with vintage decor reminiscent of the 19th and 20th centuries, and an outdoor terrace decorated with an abundance of greenery and ambient lighting.
Each table features vintage cutlery, glasses and mismatched plates curated to create a nostalgic feel, as though you've been transported to a traditional Georgian home. On trips to the bathroom, black-and-white photographs of a bygone era make you feel like you've walked into a time machine.
Since the humidity is still bearable, my dining partner and I opt for the outdoor option. Despite directly facing the bright lights of the Address Residences opposite the restaurant, the space feels cosy and enclosed, and we soon forget we're in the heart of the city.
The menu
With the scene set, we're greeted with a welcome bread basket accompanied by a delicious adjika dip that I sheepishly ask the waiter to top up.
For drinks, I opt for a juicy pear mocktail (Dh35) and my dining partner orders the traditional Natakhtari pear lemonade (Dh35), which is so tasty that we take photos of the label, planning to buy a lifetime supply from the distributor in Al Quoz.
Our starters comprise the Georgian-style Olivier salad (Dh45) and freshly made, warm sulguni cheese (Dh130), both of which come as surprisingly generous portions – a sign we needed to slow down if we want space for the mains.
Next we choose the lamb and beef khinkali (Dh39) and mushroom khinkali (Dh39), delicious twisted dumplings made of knots of dough and stuffed with meat, vegetables and spices. Again, they are much larger than they appear on the menu, and the generous filling bursts with comforting flavours.
As we pick up our cutlery, the server instructs us how to eat khinkali “the Georgian way” – holding the crown and tipping the dumpling upside down, slowly and gentling biting a hole in it before drinking the juices inside. We also learn that the crown is not designed to be eaten; rather, it is intended to be left on the plate.
We move on to a palate cleanser, cheese chebureki (Dh47), a decadent crispy deep-fried turnover, before diving right into mains, which include lamb chops (Dh110) served with Georgian tomato satsebeli sauce and seasoned onions.
The real star of our meal is the veal chakhapuli with tarragon (Dh85), a traditional meat stew that is hearty, filling and feels like one of those meals your grandmother fills your plate with to fatten you up.
We leave dessert up to our waiter's recommendation. Pelamushi (Dh48), a traditional pudding served with walnuts, is an acquired texture – one that my partner does not enjoy but I devour. It has the perfect balance of sweet and savoury, with a velvety, gooey texture that melts on the tongue.
Our meal concludes with one of Qartuli's warming signature teas – we opt for the currants and lavender tea (Dh50), a delicious blend of Assam black tea, currants puree, lavender syrup and mint.
During our visit, we enjoy a folk music performance by Ana Bujiashvili, Lia Khuntsaria, and UCHA on the outdoor terrace. We are particularly impressed by the warm Georgian hospitality, delightful entertainment and the homely dining experience.
Standout dish
The first whiff of the aromatic veal chakhapuli causes my dining partner and I to gasp in unison, followed by a happy food dance. Similar to ghormeh sabzi, a traditional Iranian dish that my partner grew up on, the veal chakhapuli is packed full of fresh herbs and tender pieces of meat.
The dish celebrates the comforts of homestyle cooking, reminiscent of the hearty meals you'd crave after a day of hiking in the cool Georgian mountains – a far cry from the warmer climate we're sitting in. But it still works.
A chat with the founder
Shevardnadze, co-founder of Qartuli, is no stranger to food and hospitality. When she was nine, she asked for her father's permission to assist in the family's food production business in Tbilsi.
“My early involvement in food preparation sparked a lifelong passion for culinary arts,” she says. “By the age of 19, I ventured abroad to study and subsequently work in various countries, collaborating with chefs from diverse backgrounds in places such as the Alps in Switzerland, southern France, Brazil's Rio de Janeiro, Istanbul, and my beloved home country of Georgia.”
After launching a delivery concept to test the demand for authentic Georgian cuisine last year, Shevardnadze opened Qartuli in Downtown Dubai four months later.
She says her favourite ingredient to cook with is Kakhetian oil, which is exclusively produced in the eastern Georgian region of Kakheti by local residents. “Unlike other oils, it is unfiltered and thick with a strong sunflower aroma, offering an authentic taste of Georgia,” she says. “This oil adds a distinct flavour and depth to my dishes, infusing them with the essence of the region.”
Prioritising high-quality and locally sourced ingredients from Georgia is also one of Qartuli's unique selling points. “My approach is innovative yet respectful of tradition, ensuring each dish offers a memorable and authentic dining experience,” she adds.
Price point and contact information
Starters are priced between Dh45 and Dh145; salads cost from Dh45 to Dh75; mains from Dh65 to Dh275; and desserts from Dh35 to Dh50.
Qartuli is open daily from noon to midnight. Reservations can be made by contacting 058 120 9347.
This review was conducted at the invitation of the restaurant
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The smuggler
Eldarir had arrived at JFK in January 2020 with three suitcases, containing goods he valued at $300, when he was directed to a search area.
Officers found 41 gold artefacts among the bags, including amulets from a funerary set which prepared the deceased for the afterlife.
Also found was a cartouche of a Ptolemaic king on a relief that was originally part of a royal building or temple.
The largest single group of items found in Eldarir’s cases were 400 shabtis, or figurines.
Khouli conviction
Khouli smuggled items into the US by making false declarations to customs about the country of origin and value of the items.
According to Immigration and Customs Enforcement, he provided “false provenances which stated that [two] Egyptian antiquities were part of a collection assembled by Khouli's father in Israel in the 1960s” when in fact “Khouli acquired the Egyptian antiquities from other dealers”.
He was sentenced to one year of probation, six months of home confinement and 200 hours of community service in 2012 after admitting buying and smuggling Egyptian antiquities, including coffins, funerary boats and limestone figures.
For sale
A number of other items said to come from the collection of Ezeldeen Taha Eldarir are currently or recently for sale.
Their provenance is described in near identical terms as the British Museum shabti: bought from Salahaddin Sirmali, "authenticated and appraised" by Hossen Rashed, then imported to the US in 1948.
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- A shabti that was on sale through a Chicago-based coin dealer, dating from 1567BC-1085BC, is up for $1,950
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Key figures in the life of the fort
Sheikh Dhiyab bin Isa (ruled 1761-1793) Built Qasr Al Hosn as a watchtower to guard over the only freshwater well on Abu Dhabi island.
Sheikh Shakhbut bin Dhiyab (ruled 1793-1816) Expanded the tower into a small fort and transferred his ruling place of residence from Liwa Oasis to the fort on the island.
Sheikh Tahnoon bin Shakhbut (ruled 1818-1833) Expanded Qasr Al Hosn further as Abu Dhabi grew from a small village of palm huts to a town of more than 5,000 inhabitants.
Sheikh Khalifa bin Shakhbut (ruled 1833-1845) Repaired and fortified the fort.
Sheikh Saeed bin Tahnoon (ruled 1845-1855) Turned Qasr Al Hosn into a strong two-storied structure.
Sheikh Zayed bin Khalifa (ruled 1855-1909) Expanded Qasr Al Hosn further to reflect the emirate's increasing prominence.
Sheikh Shakhbut bin Sultan (ruled 1928-1966) Renovated and enlarged Qasr Al Hosn, adding a decorative arch and two new villas.
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Sources: Jayanti Maitra, www.adach.ae
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New Zealand police began closer scrutiny of social media and online communities after the attacks on two mosques in March, the country's top officer said.
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