I’m always a little wary of fine-dining experiences. On the one hand, it’s exciting to see how chefs can manipulate ingredients in unexpected ways, but on the other, there have been times I was served a series of bites that, at the end of the night, left me wondering what I should have for dinner.
You will have no such experience at Les Dangereux, which had me taking deep breaths and shifting in my seat hoping to find room in my stomach for one more bite.
The flagship concept from White Hospitality, Les Dangereux takes a refreshingly relaxed approach to French fine dining, turning familiar dishes on their head and challenging diners with a new experience.
With chefs James Kim and Llorenc Sagarra at the helm, the restaurant is throwing out the rule book, ignoring trends and instead focusing on what the chefs think the people of Abu Dhabi, in all their diversity, want to eat. It is a simple concept but one that is also, as they say, “quite dangerous”.
Where to sit and what to expect
Dining at Les Dangereux feels like getting dinner and a show. Diners have a view out on to Mamsha Saadiyat, where they can watch people go by and waves lap over, arguably, Abu Dhabi’s most beautiful beach.
The open-kitchen layout also allows guests to see the chefs bent over stations, delicately placing herbs down leaf by leaf to construct beautifully plated dishes.
Fine-dining restaurants can feel stuffy and unwelcoming, but Les Dangereux takes a more casual approach. The restaurant still feels luxurious, opting for white marble tables instead of typical tablecloths, as well as banquette sofa-style seating. The interior features touches of Art Deco with curved mirrors and gold accents that are disrupted by a ceiling-to-floor screen displaying the colourful and graphic works of Takashi Murakami.
Also taking any potential snootiness out of the restaurant is the punchy playlist, featuring Lil Wayne, Drake and Nina Simone among others.
When I visit Les Dangereux with my dining partner – a friend who was making her third trip to the restaurant in a month – chef Kim tells us the plan is for the restaurant to spill out on to the boardwalk in the winter months.
Outdoor diners will be served French brasserie cuisine, while those sat inside will be offered the fine-dining experience.
The menu
Les Dangereux offers four options for dining – a la carte, bar bites, a set menu of 12 courses and an abridged version of eight courses.
My friend and I sample the 12-course menu, which is sectioned into three parts. It begins with “bites”, punctuated by a bread course, then progresses to three mains and three desserts.
The menu is frequently tweaked by the chefs, who add and change courses depending on diner feedback and seasonal produce, some of which comes from a farm in Abu Dhabi.
With names such as “butter, octopus and oud”, dish descriptions are deliberately minimalistic, encouraging guests to trust the culinary journey. For example, carpaccio, cryptically described as a “non-disclosure agreement” features a mysterious ingredient that diners are encouraged to try to identify. I won’t spoil it, but the reveal is a testament to the chefs’ ability to manipulate the texture of ingredients and the profound impact of context on a dish's perception.
Each menu item also comes with a detailed backstory, personally delivered by the server – a part of fine dining I really enjoy.
Among the dishes, my personal favourite is the “egg,” a seemingly simple soft-boiled egg. Within the perfectly sliced eggshell, however, is chawanmushi, a Japanese savoury steamed custard, enhanced with bottarga, Parmesan and maple syrup. This small yet intricate creation manages to be both deeply satisfying and remarkably light.
The salmon and beef come in close second. The salmon is perfectly cooked with a coral pink gradient following its darkened crisp skin. It is served with a bouquet of herbs wrapped with a perilla leaf. Topped with edible flowers, the beautifully wrapped bouquet wouldn’t be out of place at a wedding. It is served with two sauces, though could easily have been eaten without, the salmon still juicy and almost buttery.
The octopus, grilled and served with spots of pureed celeriac, sambal and black garlic, is my least favourite dish – but only because I tend to struggle with its texture.
The dessert portion of the menu begins on your feet. We are invited to visit the kitchen to meet some of the staff and learn about the different workstations. Afterwards, we are served a small glass of cold coffee with beans sourced from Brazil and a biscuit. That same coffee is served in a decadent tiramisu, ambitiously called GTOAT (greatest tiramisu of all time), back at the table.
The coffee is very strong and leans almost sour, but it is cut though with a thick layer of mascarpone cheese.
My favourite dessert is the churro, deep-fried and served in a spiral alongside Chantilly cream and dulce de leche. It is gently laced with oud and frankincense, but does not taste at all like a perfume.
For a few of the dishes, I find I liked the idea more than the execution. For example, the lamb sando, which is presented in a way to be eaten in thirds with each bite offering a different experience. The first third is topped with caviar, the second is sat in an oyster emulsion and the final bite is all about the flavour of the seasoned lamb. The idea is intriguing and, while I enjoyed the experience of eating it, the lamb on my visit is a little bland.
Given the price of the tasting menu, that is quite disappointing. However, the chefs are constantly making tweaks and changes to the menu in response to diner feedback, so here's hoping.
The price point is a factor to consider when dining at Les Dangereux, and it's subjective whether the experience justifies the cost. Nevertheless, for those who appreciate fine dining and have the means to indulge, it's an experience I would recommend.
A chat with the chef
A conversation with chef Kim reveals his commitment to longevity and an approach that prioritises authenticity over fleeting trends. In Abu Dhabi’s rapidly evolving food scene, his focus is to develop enduring culinary offerings while catering to the emirate’s diverse population. This will involve trial and error.
“We trying to discover what that palate is supposed to be for Abu Dhabi,” he says. “We are a team that is trying to do our own thing – not for own ego, but because someone had to.”
Chef Kim says he was exposed to cooking at a very young age. His mother was a TV celebrity chef in South Korea before they immigrated to the US. With about a decade of experience in fine-dining kitchens in New York City, he brings a wealth of knowledge and creativity to Abu Dhabi. His mission is to experiment and strip away the conventions of fine dining that are no longer relevant.
He also hopes to encourage a wider movement in the emirate for restaurants to work more closely with local farms, as Les Dangereux does.
Chef Llorenc, from Barcelona, comes from a family of farmers, giving him a greater appreciation for the relationship between the land and our food. Trained at Joviat School in Barcelona, he went on to work in French restaurants including a two-Michelin-starred restaurant.
For Les Dangereux, he hopes to generate a “local gastronomy … with an eye to creativity and haute cuisine”.
The chefs set challenges for themselves such as using as many local ingredients as possible and pushing the boundaries of technique.
“We have good allies who offer us good and local produce, that is for us the biggest challenge,” said Chef Llorenc.
“We usually go to the fish market in Abu Dhabi, use local oysters and vegetables from our garden … maybe that's our biggest addition [to the emirate’s food scene].”
Price point and contact details
The 12-course tasting menu costs Dh1,000, while the eight-course alternative menu, known as the “short voyage” is Dh600.
The a la carte menu includes dishes that cost between Dh45 for a goat milk and honey dessert to Dh321 for a Wagyu dish. There is also a Bar bites menu that offer “treats for one”, priced between Dh32 for a grilled oyster and Dh225 for scallop and caviar.
Les Dangereux is open between 6pm and midnight every day. Reservations can be made online through SevenRooms or by calling 050 977 2774.
This review was conducted at the invitation of the restaurant.
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SPECS
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Specs
Engine: Electric motor generating 54.2kWh (Cooper SE and Aceman SE), 64.6kW (Countryman All4 SE)
Power: 218hp (Cooper and Aceman), 313hp (Countryman)
Torque: 330Nm (Cooper and Aceman), 494Nm (Countryman)
On sale: Now
Price: From Dh158,000 (Cooper), Dh168,000 (Aceman), Dh190,000 (Countryman)
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BMW M5 specs
Engine: 4.4-litre twin-turbo V-8 petrol enging with additional electric motor
Power: 727hp
Torque: 1,000Nm
Transmission: 8-speed auto
Fuel consumption: 10.6L/100km
On sale: Now
Price: From Dh650,000
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The bio
His favourite book - 1984 by George Orwell
His favourite quote - 'If you think education is expensive, try ignorance' by Derek Bok, Former President of Harvard
Favourite place to travel to - Peloponnese, Southern Greece
Favourite movie - The Last Emperor
Favourite personality from history - Alexander the Great
Role Model - My father, Yiannis Davos
MATCH INFO
Uefa Champions League semi-final, first leg
Bayern Munich v Real Madrid
When: April 25, 10.45pm kick-off (UAE)
Where: Allianz Arena, Munich
Live: BeIN Sports HD
Second leg: May 1, Santiago Bernabeu, Madrid
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The biog
Age: 30
Position: Senior lab superintendent at Emirates Global Aluminium
Education: Bachelor of science in chemical engineering, post graduate degree in light metal reduction technology
Favourite part of job: The challenge, because it is challenging
Favourite quote: “Be the change you wish to see in the world,” Gandi
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Results
1. Lewis Hamilton (Mercedes) 1hr 32mins 03.897sec
2. Max Verstappen (Red Bull-Honda) at 0.745s
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4. Lando Norris (McLaren) 46.466s
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8. Carlos Sainz Jr (Ferrari) 1:07.100
9. Yuki Tsunoda (AlphaTauri-Honda) 1:25.692
10. Lance Stroll (Aston Martin-Mercedes) 1:26.713,
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Defence review at a glance
• Increase defence spending to 2.5% of GDP by 2027 but given “turbulent times it may be necessary to go faster”
• Prioritise a shift towards working with AI and autonomous systems
• Invest in the resilience of military space systems.
• Number of active reserves should be increased by 20%
• More F-35 fighter jets required in the next decade
• New “hybrid Navy” with AUKUS submarines and autonomous vessels
The five pillars of Islam
1. Fasting
2. Prayer
3. Hajj
4. Shahada
5. Zakat
Our legal consultant
Name: Hassan Mohsen Elhais
Position: legal consultant with Al Rowaad Advocates and Legal Consultants.
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Defined benefit and defined contribution schemes explained
Defined Benefit Plan (DB)
A defined benefit plan is where the benefit is defined by a formula, typically length of service to and salary at date of leaving.
Defined Contribution Plan (DC)
A defined contribution plan is where the benefit depends on the amount of money put into the plan for an employee, and how much investment return is earned on those contributions.
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Uefa Champions League semi-finals, second leg:
Liverpool (0) v Barcelona (3), Tuesday, 11pm UAE
Game is on BeIN Sports
Specs
Engine: 51.5kW electric motor
Range: 400km
Power: 134bhp
Torque: 175Nm
Price: From Dh98,800
Available: Now
Herc's Adventures
Developer: Big Ape Productions
Publisher: LucasArts
Console: PlayStation 1 & 5, Sega Saturn
Rating: 4/5
ICC Awards for 2021
MEN
Cricketer of the Year – Shaheen Afridi (Pakistan)
T20 Cricketer of the Year – Mohammad Rizwan (Pakistan)
ODI Cricketer of the Year – Babar Azam (Pakistan)
Test Cricketer of the Year – Joe Root (England)
WOMEN
Cricketer of the Year – Smriti Mandhana (India)
ODI Cricketer of the Year – Lizelle Lee (South Africa)
T20 Cricketer of the Year – Tammy Beaumont (England)
Married Malala
Malala Yousafzai is enjoying married life, her father said.
The 24-year-old married Pakistan cricket executive Asser Malik last year in a small ceremony in the UK.
Ziauddin Yousafzai told The National his daughter was ‘very happy’ with her husband.
THREE
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Need to know
The flights: Flydubai flies from Dubai to Kilimanjaro airport via Dar es Salaam from Dh1,619 return including taxes. The trip takes 8 hours.
The trek: Make sure that whatever tour company you select to climb Kilimanjaro, that it is a reputable one. The way to climb successfully would be with experienced guides and porters, from a company committed to quality, safety and an ethical approach to the mountain and its staff. Sonia Nazareth booked a VIP package through Safari Africa. The tour works out to $4,775 (Dh17,538) per person, based on a 4-person booking scheme, for 9 nights on the mountain (including one night before and after the trek at Arusha). The price includes all meals, a head guide, an assistant guide for every 2 trekkers, porters to carry the luggage, a cook and kitchen staff, a dining and mess tent, a sleeping tent set up for 2 persons, a chemical toilet and park entrance fees. The tiny ration of heated water provided for our bath in our makeshift private bathroom stall was the greatest luxury. A standard package, also based on a 4-person booking, works out to $3,050 (Dh11,202) per person.
When to go: You can climb Kili at any time of year, but the best months to ascend are January-February and September-October. Also good are July and August, if you’re tolerant of the colder weather that winter brings.
Do not underestimate the importance of kit. Even if you’re travelling at a relatively pleasant time, be geared up for the cold and the rain.
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THE SPECS
Cadillac XT6 2020 Premium Luxury
Engine: 3.6L V-6
Transmission: nine-speed automatic
Power: 310hp
Torque: 367Nm
Price: Dh280,000
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Where to donate in the UAE
The Emirates Charity Portal
You can donate to several registered charities through a “donation catalogue”. The use of the donation is quite specific, such as buying a fan for a poor family in Niger for Dh130.
The General Authority of Islamic Affairs & Endowments
The site has an e-donation service accepting debit card, credit card or e-Dirham, an electronic payment tool developed by the Ministry of Finance and First Abu Dhabi Bank.
Al Noor Special Needs Centre
You can donate online or order Smiles n’ Stuff products handcrafted by Al Noor students. The centre publishes a wish list of extras needed, starting at Dh500.
Beit Al Khair Society
Beit Al Khair Society has the motto “From – and to – the UAE,” with donations going towards the neediest in the country. Its website has a list of physical donation sites, but people can also contribute money by SMS, bank transfer and through the hotline 800-22554.
Dar Al Ber Society
Dar Al Ber Society, which has charity projects in 39 countries, accept cash payments, money transfers or SMS donations. Its donation hotline is 800-79.
Dubai Cares
Dubai Cares provides several options for individuals and companies to donate, including online, through banks, at retail outlets, via phone and by purchasing Dubai Cares branded merchandise. It is currently running a campaign called Bookings 2030, which allows people to help change the future of six underprivileged children and young people.
Emirates Airline Foundation
Those who travel on Emirates have undoubtedly seen the little donation envelopes in the seat pockets. But the foundation also accepts donations online and in the form of Skywards Miles. Donated miles are used to sponsor travel for doctors, surgeons, engineers and other professionals volunteering on humanitarian missions around the world.
Emirates Red Crescent
On the Emirates Red Crescent website you can choose between 35 different purposes for your donation, such as providing food for fasters, supporting debtors and contributing to a refugee women fund. It also has a list of bank accounts for each donation type.
Gulf for Good
Gulf for Good raises funds for partner charity projects through challenges, like climbing Kilimanjaro and cycling through Thailand. This year’s projects are in partnership with Street Child Nepal, Larchfield Kids, the Foundation for African Empowerment and SOS Children's Villages. Since 2001, the organisation has raised more than $3.5 million (Dh12.8m) in support of over 50 children’s charities.
Noor Dubai Foundation
Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum launched the Noor Dubai Foundation a decade ago with the aim of eliminating all forms of preventable blindness globally. You can donate Dh50 to support mobile eye camps by texting the word “Noor” to 4565 (Etisalat) or 4849 (du).
Key facilities
- Olympic-size swimming pool with a split bulkhead for multi-use configurations, including water polo and 50m/25m training lanes
- Premier League-standard football pitch
- 400m Olympic running track
- NBA-spec basketball court with auditorium
- 600-seat auditorium
- Spaces for historical and cultural exploration
- An elevated football field that doubles as a helipad
- Specialist robotics and science laboratories
- AR and VR-enabled learning centres
- Disruption Lab and Research Centre for developing entrepreneurial skills
Lexus LX700h specs
Engine: 3.4-litre twin-turbo V6 plus supplementary electric motor
Power: 464hp at 5,200rpm
Torque: 790Nm from 2,000-3,600rpm
Transmission: 10-speed auto
Fuel consumption: 11.7L/100km
On sale: Now
Price: From Dh590,000
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UPI facts
More than 2.2 million Indian tourists arrived in UAE in 2023
More than 3.5 million Indians reside in UAE
Indian tourists can make purchases in UAE using rupee accounts in India through QR-code-based UPI real-time payment systems
Indian residents in UAE can use their non-resident NRO and NRE accounts held in Indian banks linked to a UAE mobile number for UPI transactions
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OPINIONS ON PALESTINE & ISRAEL
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Learn more about Qasr Al Hosn
In 2013, The National's History Project went beyond the walls to see what life was like living in Abu Dhabi's fabled fort:
Company profile
Name: Fruitful Day
Founders: Marie-Christine Luijckx, Lyla Dalal AlRawi, Lindsey Fournie
Based: Dubai, UAE
Founded: 2015
Number of employees: 30
Sector: F&B
Funding so far: Dh3 million
Future funding plans: None at present
Future markets: Saudi Arabia, potentially Kuwait and other GCC countries
SERIE A FIXTURES
Saturday Spezia v Lazio (6pm), Juventus v Torino (9pm), Inter Milan v Bologna (7.45pm)
Sunday Verona v Cagliari (3.30pm), Parma v Benevento, AS Roma v Sassuolo, Udinese v Atalanta (all 6pm), Crotone v Napoli (9pm), Sampdoria v AC Milan (11.45pm)
Monday Fiorentina v Genoa (11.45pm)
Mohammed bin Zayed Majlis
