When I cook Christmas dinner in Dubai, I make it “proper British” — Turkey, trimmings and a bathtub of gravy.
However, there’s usually one ingredient missing: Brussels sprouts.
It’s not because I don’t like them — since taking responsibility for cooking them myself, I’m firmly on the “love them” side of the Marmite-style divide. It’s the price I can’t quite stomach. I refuse to pay Dh30 (about £6.60 at today’s rates, and six times more than they should cost) for a thimble-sized bag at the few supermarkets that stock them.
This year, while my friends and relatives risked bankruptcy at the mere thought of turning up the thermostat back home, a splurge was especially out of the question. So, in chivalry and solidarity, I didn’t bother.
However, when a little birdie told me about one unassuming Jumeirah Lakes Towers restaurant serving them year-round, I cancelled all plans and made a reservation.
And, with years worth of sprouts to make up for, I was ready for Not Only Fish.
What to expect and where to sit
Blink and you’ll miss the entrance, which is a sliver of a doorway hiding in the hustle and bustle of Almas Tower. It’s on the ground floor of the 68-storey office block, making it a popular post-work hangout.
However, the relaxed interior with its central bar and cosy tables is welcome to all, while the outdoor terrace is a must in the cooler season.
During the day, vast, triple-height windows bathe the sophisticated space in light illuminating its bounty of greenery — it’s buzzing with a business lunch crowd, understandably.
At night, the soft lighting is elegant, the music gently nudges up a notch and office workers trickle in after clocking off time.
The menu
The clue is in the name — while seafood is everywhere, carnivores, vegans and all those in between will be pleased to find it’s not only fish.
It’s supposed to be pan-Asian, but pan-Earth is probably more fitting.
Yes, there’s sushi, pad Thai, ramen and kushiyaki. However, the menu is a round-the-world trip with pit stops in Mexico via tacos, New York with its beloved pastrami (OK, I know it hails from Europe), France via duck breast, Texas and its braised brisket and Christmas in the UK in the shape of the aforementioned sprouts.
And why not in this city of hodgepodge histories and upbringings, with different nationalities and diverse palates at the dinner table? With a kitchen this good, it works.
It certainly makes lunch with colleagues easier — if the boss thinks a “balanced diet” means a meat skewer in each hand, you can relax with a poke bowl.
Our waiter, John, is chatty and engaging, with a warm smile and when he asks how your day is going, he genuinely means it. My wife and I put our faith in him as he fires out recommendations and within seconds he rushes off to the kitchen. “Just one thing,” he turns around and beams, “you guys are British, right?”
Before we know it, here’s Johnny, back with a wild grin and a burgeoning bowl of sprouts. “You guys will love these,” he nods.
Oh, boy, is he right. Not only am I planning on breaking all rules and starting every meal with sprouts now, the recipe itself is anything but textbook. They’re not boiled, mushy and zapped of all life like in my childhood; they’re crunchy, caramelised and finished with crispy onions and fresh spring onions, nuts and a sticky glaze. It's like a gourmet bag of cheese and onion crisps, only it counts as two of my five a day.
For the uninitiated, sprouts have a bad rap in the UK, thanks to traumatic childhood memories for many. They’re typically only served for Christmas lunch, shortly after grandparents had finished torturing them and before mums forced them down us under whispered hisses of: “Eat your vegetables, grandma’s been up boiling them since 5am for you.”
However, recently, and more specifically thanks to heroes such as Not Only Fish and others, they’ve enjoyed the sort of culinary makeover they always needed, a recipe reinvention for the modern diner (just don’t tell my gran).
But it’s not all about sprouts here. Soon, John’s excellent recommendations arrive including a mixed sashimi platter of octopus (cooked), sea bream, salmon and tuna; spicy dragon roll; and pastrami on roti, which is actually delightfully crumbly puff pastry.
The chicken and octopus kushiyaki skewers (separate skewers, I should add) are up there with the best in the city; the duck breast salad could give MayaBay’s a run for its money; and the pad Thai whisks me back to the backstreets of Bangkok. For vegetarians, the spicy miso-glazed aubergine is the closest thing you’ll find to the ubiquitous black cod, too.
There’s no room for dessert but, even without John’s firm insistence, I’ll undoubtedly be back to pick up from where I left off.
Standout dish
In the words of my wife: “Why did we only order one bowl of sprouts when we should’ve had three?” It’s hard to fault the logic.
Price point and contact information
Sushi ranges from Dh40 to Dh120; starters and salads range from Dh30 to Dh90; and mains range from Dh85 to Dh170.
Not Only Fish is open Monday to Wednesday from noon to midnight; Thursday to Saturday from noon to 2am; and closed Sunday. Reservations can be made by contacting 04 554 0707 or visiting notonlyfish-dxb.com.
This review was conducted at the invitation of the restaurant
Some of Darwish's last words
"They see their tomorrows slipping out of their reach. And though it seems to them that everything outside this reality is heaven, yet they do not want to go to that heaven. They stay, because they are afflicted with hope." - Mahmoud Darwish, to attendees of the Palestine Festival of Literature, 2008
His life in brief: Born in a village near Galilee, he lived in exile for most of his life and started writing poetry after high school. He was arrested several times by Israel for what were deemed to be inciteful poems. Most of his work focused on the love and yearning for his homeland, and he was regarded the Palestinian poet of resistance. Over the course of his life, he published more than 30 poetry collections and books of prose, with his work translated into more than 20 languages. Many of his poems were set to music by Arab composers, most significantly Marcel Khalife. Darwish died on August 9, 2008 after undergoing heart surgery in the United States. He was later buried in Ramallah where a shrine was erected in his honour.
The five pillars of Islam
The specs: 2018 Nissan Patrol Nismo
Price: base / as tested: Dh382,000
Engine: 5.6-litre V8
Gearbox: Seven-speed automatic
Power: 428hp @ 5,800rpm
Torque: 560Nm @ 3,600rpm
Fuel economy, combined: 12.7L / 100km
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
Mohammed bin Zayed Majlis
GCC-UK%20Growth
%3Cp%3EAn%20FTA%20with%20the%20GCC%20would%20be%20very%20significant%20for%20the%20UK.%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20My%20Department%20has%20forecast%20that%20it%20could%20generate%20an%20additional%20%C2%A31.6%20billion%20a%20year%20for%20our%20economy.%3Cbr%3EWith%20consumer%20demand%20across%20the%20GCC%20predicted%20to%20increase%20to%20%C2%A3800%20billion%20by%202035%20this%20deal%20could%20act%20as%20a%20launchpad%20from%20which%20our%20firms%20can%20boost%20their%20market%20share.%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
Killing of Qassem Suleimani
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
The specs
Engine: 2.3-litre, turbo four-cylinder
Transmission: 10-speed auto
Power: 300hp
Torque: 420Nm
Price: Dh189,900
On sale: now
Zayed Sustainability Prize
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The specs
Engine: 4.0-litre V8 twin-turbocharged and three electric motors
Power: Combined output 920hp
Torque: 730Nm at 4,000-7,000rpm
Transmission: 8-speed dual-clutch automatic
Fuel consumption: 11.2L/100km
On sale: Now, deliveries expected later in 2025
Price: expected to start at Dh1,432,000
More on Quran memorisation:
TRAP
Starring: Josh Hartnett, Saleka Shyamalan, Ariel Donaghue
Director: M Night Shyamalan
Rating: 3/5
The five pillars of Islam
The specs
Engine: Turbocharged four-cylinder 2.7-litre
Power: 325hp
Torque: 500Nm
Transmission: 10-speed automatic
Price: From Dh189,700
On sale: now
What can victims do?
Always use only regulated platforms
Stop all transactions and communication on suspicion
Save all evidence (screenshots, chat logs, transaction IDs)
Report to local authorities
Warn others to prevent further harm
Courtesy: Crystal Intelligence
Mohammed bin Zayed Majlis
WWE Evolution results
- Trish Stratus and Lita beat Alicia Fox and Mickie James in a tag match
- Nia Jax won a battle royal, eliminating Ember Moon last to win
- Toni Storm beat Io Shirai to win the Mae Young Classic
- Natalya, Sasha Banks and Bayley beat The Riott Squad in a six-woman tag match
- Shayna Baszler won the NXT Women’s title by defeating Kairi Sane
- Becky Lynch retained the SmackDown Women’s Championship against Charlotte Flair in a Last Woman Standing match
- Ronda Rousey retained the Raw Women’s title by beating Nikki Bella
F1 The Movie
Starring: Brad Pitt, Damson Idris, Kerry Condon, Javier Bardem
Director: Joseph Kosinski
Rating: 4/5
TOUR RESULTS AND FIXTURES
June 3: NZ Provincial Barbarians 7 Lions 13
June 7: Blues 22 Lions 16
June 10: Crusaders 3 Lions 12
June 13: Highlanders 23 Lions 22
June 17: Maori All Blacks 10 Lions 32
June 20: Chiefs 6 Lions 34
June 24: New Zealand 30 Lions 15 (First Test)
June 27: Hurricanes 31 Lions 31
July 1: New Zealand 21 Lions 24 (Second Test)
July 8: New Zealand v Lions (Third Test) - kick-off 11.30am (UAE)
BUNDESLIGA FIXTURES
Saturday
Borussia Dortmund v Eintracht Frankfurt (5.30pm kick-off UAE)
Bayer Leverkusen v Schalke (5.30pm)
Wolfsburg v Cologne (5.30pm)
Mainz v Arminia Bielefeld (5.30pm)
Augsburg v Hoffenheim (5.30pm)
RB Leipzig v Bayern Munich (8.30pm)
Borussia Monchengladbach v Freiburg (10.30pm)
Sunday
VfB Stuttgart v Werder Bremen (5.30pm)
Union Berlin v Hertha Berlin (8pm)
Coal Black Mornings
Brett Anderson
Little Brown Book Group
The specs
AT4 Ultimate, as tested
Engine: 6.2-litre V8
Power: 420hp
Torque: 623Nm
Transmission: 10-speed automatic
Price: From Dh330,800 (Elevation: Dh236,400; AT4: Dh286,800; Denali: Dh345,800)
On sale: Now
Essentials
The flights
Emirates, Etihad and Malaysia Airlines all fly direct from the UAE to Kuala Lumpur and on to Penang from about Dh2,300 return, including taxes.
Where to stay
In Kuala Lumpur, Element is a recently opened, futuristic hotel high up in a Norman Foster-designed skyscraper. Rooms cost from Dh400 per night, including taxes. Hotel Stripes, also in KL, is a great value design hotel, with an infinity rooftop pool. Rooms cost from Dh310, including taxes.
In Penang, Ren i Tang is a boutique b&b in what was once an ancient Chinese Medicine Hall in the centre of Little India. Rooms cost from Dh220, including taxes.
23 Love Lane in Penang is a luxury boutique heritage hotel in a converted mansion, with private tropical gardens. Rooms cost from Dh400, including taxes.
In Langkawi, Temple Tree is a unique architectural villa hotel consisting of antique houses from all across Malaysia. Rooms cost from Dh350, including taxes.
Avatar%20(2009)
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Sarfira
Director: Sudha Kongara Prasad
Starring: Akshay Kumar, Radhika Madan, Paresh Rawal
Rating: 2/5
Schedule
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3ENovember%2013-14%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Abu%20Dhabi%20World%20Youth%20Jiu-Jitsu%20Championship%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ENovember%2015-16%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EAbu%20Dhabi%20World%20Masters%20Jiu-Jitsu%20Championship%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ENovember%2017-19%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Abu%20Dhabi%20World%20Professional%20Jiu-Jitsu%20Championship%20followed%20by%20the%20Abu%20Dhabi%20World%20Jiu-Jitsu%20Awards%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
Where to buy
Limited-edition art prints of The Sofa Series: Sultani can be acquired from Reem El Mutwalli at www.reemelmutwalli.com
EU's%2020-point%20migration%20plan
%3Cp%3E1.%20Send%20EU%20border%20guards%20to%20Balkans%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E2.%20%E2%82%AC40%20million%20for%20training%20and%20surveillance%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E3.%20Review%20EU%20border%20protection%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E4.%20Reward%20countries%20that%20fund%20Balkans%C2%A0%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E5.%20Help%20Balkans%20improve%20asylum%20system%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E6.%20Improve%20migrant%20reception%20facilities%C2%A0%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E7.%20Close%20gaps%20in%20EU%20registration%20system%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E8.%20Run%20pilots%20of%20faster%20asylum%20system%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E9.%20Improve%20relocation%20of%20migrants%20within%20EU%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E10.%20Bolster%20migration%20unit%20in%20Greece%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E11.%20Tackle%20smuggling%20at%20Serbia%2FHungary%20border%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E12.%20Implement%20%E2%82%AC30%20million%20anti-smuggling%20plan%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E13.%20Sanctions%20on%20transport%20linked%20to%20smuggling%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E14.%20Expand%20pilot%20deportation%20scheme%20in%20Bosnia%C2%A0%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E15.%20Training%20for%20Balkans%20to%20deport%20migrants%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E16.%20Joint%20task%20forces%20with%20Balkans%20and%20countries%20of%20origin%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E17.%20Close%20loopholes%20in%20Balkan%20visa%20policy%C2%A0%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E18.%20Monitor%20migration%20laws%20passed%20in%20Balkans%C2%A0%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E19.%20Use%20visa-free%20travel%20as%20leverage%20over%20Balkans%C2%A0%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E20.%20Joint%20EU%20messages%20to%20Balkans%20and%20countries%20of%20origin%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
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Starring: Saja Kilani, Clara Khoury, Motaz Malhees
Director: Kaouther Ben Hania
Rating: 4/5
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