The first time I met Salam Dakkak, we were both reaching for the last canape at the Michelin Guide Dubai unveiling ceremony in June. Despite my protests, she graciously insisted I eat it (“Feeding people is what I do, after all,” she says), admitting she was a touch nervous about whether her restaurant, Bait Maryam, would be acknowledged at the star-studded event.
She needn’t have worried. Not only was Dakkak’s restaurant one of 14 in Michelin’s Bib Gourmand category, but she also took home the Welcome & Service award, a nod to the high level of hospitality she prides herself on.
The next time I met the Palestinian-Jordanian chef, she was on home turf, reigning large as the mother figure at the cosy JLT restaurant that serves Levantine cuisine and that she has been running since 2017. Hearteningly, she had also just been named the Middle East and North Africa's Best Female Chef 2023 by the World’s 50 Best group, a food and beverage award-bestowing body that is, arguably, as popular as the Michelin Guide. The debut list for the Mena region was revealed in Abu Dhabi in February, with the second set to be announced on January 30.
“I am now convinced that hard work pays off,” Dakkak says of her 50 Best award. “It makes me feel happy and accomplished, yes, but with it also comes the desire to do more and the responsibility to be both more successful and more supportive of others in my field.”
Dakkak says F&B awards are crucial for the industry because they bring about a level of credibility and help to put restaurants and countries on the culinary world map. “Most importantly, though, it is the biggest compliment to be recognised for serving Middle Eastern food, which has not yet got the recognition it deserves.
“For most people, Arabic only means Lebanese food, while we specialise in Palestinian dishes alongside a mix of other Levantine cuisine, including dishes from Syria, Jordan and Lebanon. Even common dishes like dolma, stuffed vine leaves, are prepared differently in the four countries, not to mention musakhan, makluba and mansaf.”
Dakkak was 54 when she opened Bait Maryam and says she’s had “a long and lovely journey”, which started with her observing her mother, Maryam, cooking the simplest of dishes with love and treating even the most basic ingredients with respect. “This encouraged me to always cook from my heart, and enabled me to change a bad mood to good just by entering the kitchen,” she says.
In 1999, Dakkak moved to Saudi Arabia, where she opened a cooking school with only eight chairs. “It went from eight to 16, and then some people even brought their own chairs with them,” she says. She also consulted with two hotels to train their sous chefs on preparing authentic dishes.
In 2004, Dakkak and her family moved to Houston in the US, where she met a mother-son duo running an Arabic restaurant called Fadi’s. “I admired that lady so much that she sparked in me the dream of one day opening my own restaurant. And so Bait Maryam, or home of Maryam, named after my mother, was born after we moved to the UAE.” The JLT spot is replete with homely touches, including Dakkak’s mother's lace curtains and her sewing machine.
The end game is to serve homestyle meals. “I never wanted a fine-dining restaurant with showy dishes, but rather for every guest, whether Arab or not, to feel like they are coming home.”
It’s why Dakkak recommends sampling the hummus and tabbouleh above all else. “If a restaurant does these right, you know it will serve good food.”
As the recipient of the Mena’s Best Female Chef award, Dakkak follows in the footsteps of Bahraini chef Tala Bashmi, who won the award in 2022. And yet the two could not be more different: where Bashmi — who Dakkak describes as “amazing” — is known for her highly experamentative fusion cuisine (think soft-shell crab with cardamom pickled cabbage, harissa honey, micro herbs, finger lime and mehyawa aioli), Salam is all about simple, home-cooked meals.
“It goes to show that there is room for both styles of cooking at this point in time. I also believe that ours is a restaurant that a person can come and eat in every day; how many other places can you say that about? I am pleased that both the Michelin and Mena’s 50 Best awards acknowledge that this style of food is as important, maybe even more so.”
Scroll through the gallery below to see which other restaurants were included on Michelin's Bib Gourmand list in Dubai
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UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
The%20specs
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THE%20SPECS
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Company%20profile
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3ECompany%20name%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3ETwig%20Solutions%20(with%20trade%20name%20Twig)%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EStarted%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E2021%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EFounders%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EChafic%20Idriss%2C%20Karam%20El%20Dik%20and%20Rayan%20Antonios%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EBased%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EUAE%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ESector%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EFinTech%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EInitial%20investment%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3Ebootstrapped%20(undisclosed)%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ECurrent%20number%20of%20staff%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E13%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EInvestment%20stage%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3Epre-seed%20%E2%80%94%20closing%20the%20round%20as%20we%20speak%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EInvestors%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20senior%20executives%20from%20the%20GCC%20financial%20services%20industry%20and%20global%20family%20offices%3Cbr%3E%3Cbr%3E%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
Results
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The Details
Article 15
Produced by: Carnival Cinemas, Zee Studios
Directed by: Anubhav Sinha
Starring: Ayushmann Khurrana, Kumud Mishra, Manoj Pahwa, Sayani Gupta, Zeeshan Ayyub
Our rating: 4/5
Sun jukebox
Rufus Thomas, Bear Cat (The Answer to Hound Dog) (1953)
This rip-off of Leiber/Stoller’s early rock stomper brought a lawsuit against Phillips and necessitated Presley’s premature sale to RCA.
Elvis Presley, Mystery Train (1955)
The B-side of Presley’s final single for Sun bops with a drummer-less groove.
Johnny Cash and the Tennessee Two, Folsom Prison Blues (1955)
Originally recorded for Sun, Cash’s signature tune was performed for inmates of the titular prison 13 years later.
Carl Perkins, Blue Suede Shoes (1956)
Within a month of Sun’s February release Elvis had his version out on RCA.
Roy Orbison, Ooby Dooby (1956)
An essential piece of irreverent juvenilia from Orbison.
Jerry Lee Lewis, Great Balls of Fire (1957)
Lee’s trademark anthem is one of the era’s best-remembered – and best-selling – songs.
Ferrari 12Cilindri specs
Engine: naturally aspirated 6.5-liter V12
Power: 819hp
Torque: 678Nm at 7,250rpm
Price: From Dh1,700,000
Available: Now
more from Janine di Giovanni
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Killing of Qassem Suleimani
Killing of Qassem Suleimani
More from Neighbourhood Watch:
Global state-owned investor ranking by size
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China
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UAE
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Japan
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Norway
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Canada
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Australia
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Tearful appearance
Chancellor Rachel Reeves set markets on edge as she appeared visibly distraught in parliament on Wednesday.
Legislative setbacks for the government have blown a new hole in the budgetary calculations at a time when the deficit is stubbornly large and the economy is struggling to grow.
She appeared with Keir Starmer on Thursday and the pair embraced, but he had failed to give her his backing as she cried a day earlier.
A spokesman said her upset demeanour was due to a personal matter.
KILLING OF QASSEM SULEIMANI
Killing of Qassem Suleimani
if you go
Getting there
Etihad (Etihad.com), Emirates (emirates.com) and Air France (www.airfrance.com) fly to Paris’ Charles de Gaulle Airport, from Abu Dhabi and Dubai respectively. Return flights cost from around Dh3,785. It takes about 40 minutes to get from Paris to Compiègne by train, with return tickets costing €19. The Glade of the Armistice is 6.6km east of the railway station.
Staying there
On a handsome, tree-lined street near the Chateau’s park, La Parenthèse du Rond Royal (laparenthesedurondroyal.com) offers spacious b&b accommodation with thoughtful design touches. Lots of natural woods, old fashioned travelling trunks as decoration and multi-nozzle showers are part of the look, while there are free bikes for those who want to cycle to the glade. Prices start at €120 a night.
More information: musee-armistice-14-18.fr ; compiegne-tourisme.fr; uk.france.fr
RECORD%20BREAKER
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Company%20Profile
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STAGE%201%20RESULTS
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'Panga'
Directed by Ashwiny Iyer Tiwari
Starring Kangana Ranaut, Richa Chadha, Jassie Gill, Yagya Bhasin, Neena Gupta
Rating: 3.5/5
Key facilities
- Olympic-size swimming pool with a split bulkhead for multi-use configurations, including water polo and 50m/25m training lanes
- Premier League-standard football pitch
- 400m Olympic running track
- NBA-spec basketball court with auditorium
- 600-seat auditorium
- Spaces for historical and cultural exploration
- An elevated football field that doubles as a helipad
- Specialist robotics and science laboratories
- AR and VR-enabled learning centres
- Disruption Lab and Research Centre for developing entrepreneurial skills
COMPANY%20PROFILE
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3ECompany%20name%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%203S%20Money%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EStarted%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%202018%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EBased%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20London%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EFounders%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Ivan%20Zhiznevsky%2C%20Eugene%20Dugaev%20and%20Andrei%20Dikouchine%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ESector%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20FinTech%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EInvestment%20stage%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20%245.6%20million%20raised%20in%20total%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
Ain Dubai in numbers
126: The length in metres of the legs supporting the structure
1 football pitch: The length of each permanent spoke is longer than a professional soccer pitch
16 A380 Airbuses: The equivalent weight of the wheel rim.
9,000 tonnes: The amount of steel used to construct the project.
5 tonnes: The weight of each permanent spoke that is holding the wheel rim in place
192: The amount of cable wires used to create the wheel. They measure a distance of 2,4000km in total, the equivalent of the distance between Dubai and Cairo.
Afghanistan fixtures
- v Australia, today
- v Sri Lanka, Tuesday
- v New Zealand, Saturday,
- v South Africa, June 15
- v England, June 18
- v India, June 22
- v Bangladesh, June 24
- v Pakistan, June 29
- v West Indies, July 4
Results
2.30pm: Dubai Creek Tower – Handicap (PA) Dh40,000 (Dirt) 1,200m; Winner: Marmara Xm, Gary Sanchez (jockey), Abdelkhir Adam (trainer)
3pm: Al Yasmeen – Maiden (PA) Dh40,000 (D) 1,700m; Winner: AS Hajez, Jesus Rosales, Khalifa Al Neyadi
3.30pm: Al Ferdous – Maiden (PA) Dh40,000 (D) 1,700m; Winner: Soukainah, Sebastien Martino, Jean-Claude Pecout
4pm: The Crown Prince Of Sharjah – Prestige (PA) Dh200,000 (D) 1,200m; Winner: AF Thayer, Ray Dawson, Ernst Oertel
4.30pm: Sheikh Ahmed bin Rashid Al Maktoum Cup – Handicap (TB) Dh200,000 (D) 2,000m; Winner: George Villiers, Antonio Fresu, Bhupat Seemar
5pm: Palma Spring – Handicap (PA) Dh40,000 (D) 2,000m; Winner: Es Abu Mousa, Antonio Fresu, Abubakar Daud
The specs
Common to all models unless otherwise stated
Engine: 4-cylinder 2-litre T-GDi
0-100kph: 5.3 seconds (Elantra); 5.5 seconds (Kona); 6.1 seconds (Veloster)
Power: 276hp
Torque: 392Nm
Transmission: 6-Speed Manual/ 8-Speed Dual Clutch FWD
Price: TBC
The specs
Engine: 3-litre twin-turbo V6
Power: 400hp
Torque: 475Nm
Transmission: 9-speed automatic
Price: From Dh215,900
On sale: Now
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