Models present creations against a backdrop of burnished yellow at the Hermes spring/summer 2022 show. AFP
Models present creations against a backdrop of burnished yellow at the Hermes spring/summer 2022 show. AFP
Models present creations against a backdrop of burnished yellow at the Hermes spring/summer 2022 show. AFP
Models present creations against a backdrop of burnished yellow at the Hermes spring/summer 2022 show. AFP

Paris Fashion Week: pared-back Elie Saab and the sunny side of Hermes


Selina Denman
  • English
  • Arabic

Paris Fashion Week continues, with a hybrid of virtual and physical presentations. Hermes transported guests to the outskirts of the city, where it served up a stunning collection in an airport hangar, while Lebanese designers Elie Saab and Rabih Kayrouz stuck with the digital format to unveil spring/summer collections that reasserted their technical know-how.

Elie Saab

Dubbed Splendor in the Sun, Elie Saab’s spring/summer 2022 collection was presented as a 12-minute video. Filmed on the grounds of Paris’s Hotel Potocki, a former residence of Polish nobility, it was a relatively pared-back offering from the man best known for his embellished fairy tale gowns, and intended, Saab said, “for a new generation of women”.

An initial smattering of bold prints, consisting of interlocking lower-case Es, made way for crisp white shirt dresses, crocheted shorts and macrame lace sundresses, all paired with oversized sunglasses, flat sandals and beaming smiles.

Tiered column dresses offered delicate plays on transparency, while white tunic tops with delicate gold detailing around the midriff were paired with wide-legged trousers. It felt fun, carefree and comfortable, but also, in Saab’s trademark style, impeccably crafted.

An injection of colour came midway through the show, with one-shouldered flowing dresses in bold shades of orange and citrus green. Pretty pleats, asymmetric hemlines and painterly floral motifs built on the idea of effortless style. Structured strapless dresses with fitted bodices and voluminous midi-length skirts shimmered in shades of green and red, and evening dresses were fitted with billowing sleeves and capes, and slits that extended almost to the hip. Saab’s trademark embellishments made an appearance towards the end, on glimmering wraparound dresses with plunging necklines, and floor-length gowns in ivory and midnight blue.

Hermes

The Hermes spring/summer 2022 collection was unveiled in a hangar. Photo: AFP
The Hermes spring/summer 2022 collection was unveiled in a hangar. Photo: AFP

Hermes transported its guests to an airport on the outskirts of Paris, where its spring/summer 2022 collection was unveiled on a circular hangar and a plane landed in the background as part of the finale.

Designer Nadege Vanhee-Cybulski presented a collection that celebrates the idea of women moving freely in their clothes, combining practicality, comfort and sensuality in the form of drawstring trousers, structured bra tops and athletic silhouettes.

A model presents a creation for Hermes during the women's spring/summer 2022 ready-to-wear collection fashion show in Le Bourget, on the outskirts of Paris, as part of the Paris Fashion Week. AFP
A model presents a creation for Hermes during the women's spring/summer 2022 ready-to-wear collection fashion show in Le Bourget, on the outskirts of Paris, as part of the Paris Fashion Week. AFP

Set against a backdrop of burnished yellow, the collection was a sunny salute to post-pandemic dressing, with buttery leathers, soft knits, loose-fitting jumpsuits and sturdy thick-soled sandals and shoes. Gentle shades of yellow, dusky pinks and soft shades of orange dominated, with a smattering of subtle prints. It felt, above all, optimistic.

Maison Rabih Kayrouz

To present his spring/summer 2022 collection, Rabih Kayrouz took us behind the scenes of a fun-filled fashion shoot, starring a model dancing to the kitschy beats of Raffaella Carra’s 1979 hit Rumore, in a gold gown, duvet-esque dresses, high-waisted shorts and layers of denim. Structure and volume reigned supreme, whether in the form of billowing sleeves or oversized capes, serving as a reminder that Kayrouz is a master at manipulating materials.

In a poem shared on Instagram with the video, Kayrouz described a woman who takes her suitcase and flies away, prepared for any situation: "To walk through foreign streets / To venture forth on a safari / To dance under the stars / Her bag contains every key piece.”

Vivienne Westwood

A model at the Vivienne Westwood presentation. Photo: AP
A model at the Vivienne Westwood presentation. Photo: AP

Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood presented a typically eccentric collection that mixed glam rock references from Westwood’s 1980s heyday with historical musings and a healthy dose of humour. It incorporated plenty of deadstock fabrics, but also Kronthaler’s baby blanket and a cuddly toy from his childhood.

A cacophony of influences collided on the catwalk, in what has aptly been described by some as “fashion mayhem”. Orange boots that expanded into Michelin man-worthy chaps were held up by straps that wrapped around the neck, shirts doubled as turbans, and capes extended upwards and outwards as if attached to an invisible clothesline. Some may question the collection's wearability; few will dispute that it was a whole lot of fun.

Stats at a glance:

Cost: 1.05 billion pounds (Dh 4.8 billion)

Number in service: 6

Complement 191 (space for up to 285)

Top speed: over 32 knots

Range: Over 7,000 nautical miles

Length 152.4 m

Displacement: 8,700 tonnes

Beam:   21.2 m

Draught: 7.4 m

The five pillars of Islam

1. Fasting 

2. Prayer 

3. Hajj 

4. Shahada 

5. Zakat 

The burning issue

The internal combustion engine is facing a watershed moment – major manufacturer Volvo is to stop producing petroleum-powered vehicles by 2021 and countries in Europe, including the UK, have vowed to ban their sale before 2040. The National takes a look at the story of one of the most successful technologies of the last 100 years and how it has impacted life in the UAE.

Read part three: the age of the electric vehicle begins

Read part two: how climate change drove the race for an alternative 

Read part one: how cars came to the UAE

UAE tour of Zimbabwe

All matches in Bulawayo
Friday, Sept 26 – UAE won by 36 runs
Sunday, Sept 28 – Second ODI
Tuesday, Sept 30 – Third ODI
Thursday, Oct 2 – Fourth ODI
Sunday, Oct 5 – First T20I
Monday, Oct 6 – Second T20I

UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
Where to donate in the UAE

The Emirates Charity Portal

You can donate to several registered charities through a “donation catalogue”. The use of the donation is quite specific, such as buying a fan for a poor family in Niger for Dh130.

The General Authority of Islamic Affairs & Endowments

The site has an e-donation service accepting debit card, credit card or e-Dirham, an electronic payment tool developed by the Ministry of Finance and First Abu Dhabi Bank.

Al Noor Special Needs Centre

You can donate online or order Smiles n’ Stuff products handcrafted by Al Noor students. The centre publishes a wish list of extras needed, starting at Dh500.

Beit Al Khair Society

Beit Al Khair Society has the motto “From – and to – the UAE,” with donations going towards the neediest in the country. Its website has a list of physical donation sites, but people can also contribute money by SMS, bank transfer and through the hotline 800-22554.

Dar Al Ber Society

Dar Al Ber Society, which has charity projects in 39 countries, accept cash payments, money transfers or SMS donations. Its donation hotline is 800-79.

Dubai Cares

Dubai Cares provides several options for individuals and companies to donate, including online, through banks, at retail outlets, via phone and by purchasing Dubai Cares branded merchandise. It is currently running a campaign called Bookings 2030, which allows people to help change the future of six underprivileged children and young people.

Emirates Airline Foundation

Those who travel on Emirates have undoubtedly seen the little donation envelopes in the seat pockets. But the foundation also accepts donations online and in the form of Skywards Miles. Donated miles are used to sponsor travel for doctors, surgeons, engineers and other professionals volunteering on humanitarian missions around the world.

Emirates Red Crescent

On the Emirates Red Crescent website you can choose between 35 different purposes for your donation, such as providing food for fasters, supporting debtors and contributing to a refugee women fund. It also has a list of bank accounts for each donation type.

Gulf for Good

Gulf for Good raises funds for partner charity projects through challenges, like climbing Kilimanjaro and cycling through Thailand. This year’s projects are in partnership with Street Child Nepal, Larchfield Kids, the Foundation for African Empowerment and SOS Children's Villages. Since 2001, the organisation has raised more than $3.5 million (Dh12.8m) in support of over 50 children’s charities.

Noor Dubai Foundation

Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum launched the Noor Dubai Foundation a decade ago with the aim of eliminating all forms of preventable blindness globally. You can donate Dh50 to support mobile eye camps by texting the word “Noor” to 4565 (Etisalat) or 4849 (du).

UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
RESULTS

 

Catchweight 63.5kg: Shakriyor Juraev (UZB) beat Bahez Khoshnaw (IRQ). Round 3 TKO (body kick)

Lightweight: Nart Abida (JOR) beat Moussa Salih (MAR). Round 1 by rear naked choke

Catchweight 79kg: Laid Zerhouni (ALG) beat Ahmed Saeb (IRQ). Round 1 TKO (punches)

Catchweight 58kg: Omar Al Hussaini (UAE) beat Mohamed Sahabdeen (SLA) Round 1 rear naked choke

Flyweight: Lina Fayyad (JOR) beat Sophia Haddouche (ALG) Round 2 TKO (ground and pound)

Catchweight 80kg: Badreddine Diani (MAR) beat Sofiane Aïssaoui (ALG) Round 2 TKO

Flyweight: Sabriye Sengul (TUR) beat Mona Ftouhi (TUN). Unanimous decision

Middleweight: Kher Khalifa Eshoushan (LIB) beat Essa Basem (JOR). Round 1 rear naked choke

Heavyweight: Mohamed Jumaa (SUD) beat Hassen Rahat (MAR). Round 1 TKO (ground and pound)

Lightweight: Abdullah Mohammad Ali Musalim (UAE beat Omar Emad (EGY). Round 1 triangle choke

Catchweight 62kg: Ali Taleb (IRQ) beat Mohamed El Mesbahi (MAR). Round 2 KO

Catchweight 88kg: Mohamad Osseili (LEB) beat Samir Zaidi (COM). Unanimous decision

Dubai World Cup nominations

UAE: Thunder Snow/Saeed bin Suroor (trainer), North America/Satish Seemar, Drafted/Doug Watson, New Trails/Ahmad bin Harmash, Capezzano, Gronkowski, Axelrod, all trained by Salem bin Ghadayer

USA: Seeking The Soul/Dallas Stewart, Imperial Hunt/Luis Carvajal Jr, Audible/Todd Pletcher, Roy H/Peter Miller, Yoshida/William Mott, Promises Fulfilled/Dale Romans, Gunnevera/Antonio Sano, XY Jet/Jorge Navarro, Pavel/Doug O’Neill, Switzerland/Steve Asmussen.

Japan: Matera Sky/Hideyuki Mori, KT Brace/Haruki Sugiyama. Bahrain: Nine Below Zero/Fawzi Nass. Ireland: Tato Key/David Marnane. Hong Kong: Fight Hero/Me Tsui. South Korea: Dolkong/Simon Foster.

CHELSEA'S NEXT FIVE GAMES

Mar 10: Norwich(A)

Mar 13: Newcastle(H)

Mar 16: Lille(A)

Mar 19: Middlesbrough(A)

Apr 2: Brentford(H)

MATCH INFO

Euro 2020 qualifier

Ukraine 2 (Yaremchuk 06', Yarmolenko 27')

Portugal 1 (Ronaldo 72' pen)

Company profile

Name: Thndr

Started: October 2020

Founders: Ahmad Hammouda and Seif Amr

Based: Cairo, Egypt

Sector: FinTech

Initial investment: pre-seed of $800,000

Funding stage: series A; $20 million

Investors: Tiger Global, Beco Capital, Prosus Ventures, Y Combinator, Global Ventures, Abdul Latif Jameel, Endure Capital, 4DX Ventures, Plus VC,  Rabacap and MSA Capital

 

 

Skoda Superb Specs

Engine: 2-litre TSI petrol

Power: 190hp

Torque: 320Nm

Price: From Dh147,000

Available: Now

The Voice of Hind Rajab

Starring: Saja Kilani, Clara Khoury, Motaz Malhees

Director: Kaouther Ben Hania

Rating: 4/5

2024%20Dubai%20Marathon%20Results
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EWomen%E2%80%99s%20race%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%0D%3Cbr%3E1.%20Tigist%20Ketema%20(ETH)%202hrs%2016min%207sec%0D%3Cbr%3E2.%20Ruti%20Aga%20(ETH)%202%3A18%3A09%0D%3Cbr%3E3.%20Dera%20Dida%20(ETH)%202%3A19%3A29%0D%3Cbr%3EMen's%20race%3A%0D%3Cbr%3E1.%20Addisu%20Gobena%20(ETH)%202%3A05%3A01%0D%3Cbr%3E2.%20Lemi%20Dumicha%20(ETH)%202%3A05%3A20%0D%3Cbr%3E3.%20DejeneMegersa%20(ETH)%202%3A05%3A42%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
The alternatives

• Founded in 2014, Telr is a payment aggregator and gateway with an office in Silicon Oasis. It’s e-commerce entry plan costs Dh349 monthly (plus VAT). QR codes direct customers to an online payment page and merchants can generate payments through messaging apps.

• Business Bay’s Pallapay claims 40,000-plus active merchants who can invoice customers and receive payment by card. Fees range from 1.99 per cent plus Dh1 per transaction depending on payment method and location, such as online or via UAE mobile.

• Tap started in May 2013 in Kuwait, allowing Middle East businesses to bill, accept, receive and make payments online “easier, faster and smoother” via goSell and goCollect. It supports more than 10,000 merchants. Monthly fees range from US$65-100, plus card charges of 2.75-3.75 per cent and Dh1.2 per sale.

2checkout’s “all-in-one payment gateway and merchant account” accepts payments in 200-plus markets for 2.4-3.9 per cent, plus a Dh1.2-Dh1.8 currency conversion charge. The US provider processes online shop and mobile transactions and has 17,000-plus active digital commerce users.

• PayPal is probably the best-known online goods payment method - usually used for eBay purchases -  but can be used to receive funds, providing everyone’s signed up. Costs from 2.9 per cent plus Dh1.2 per transaction.

Frankenstein in Baghdad
Ahmed Saadawi
​​​​​​​Penguin Press

Profile of RentSher

Started: October 2015 in India, November 2016 in UAE

Founders: Harsh Dhand; Vaibhav and Purvashi Doshi

Based: Bangalore, India and Dubai, UAE

Sector: Online rental marketplace

Size: 40 employees

Investment: $2 million

Dust and sand storms compared

Sand storm

  • Particle size: Larger, heavier sand grains
  • Visibility: Often dramatic with thick "walls" of sand
  • Duration: Short-lived, typically localised
  • Travel distance: Limited 
  • Source: Open desert areas with strong winds

Dust storm

  • Particle size: Much finer, lightweight particles
  • Visibility: Hazy skies but less intense
  • Duration: Can linger for days
  • Travel distance: Long-range, up to thousands of kilometres
  • Source: Can be carried from distant regions
UK-EU trade at a glance

EU fishing vessels guaranteed access to UK waters for 12 years

Co-operation on security initiatives and procurement of defence products

Youth experience scheme to work, study or volunteer in UK and EU countries

Smoother border management with use of e-gates

Cutting red tape on import and export of food

THE SPECS

Engine: 1.5-litre turbocharged four-cylinder

Transmission: Constant Variable (CVT)

Power: 141bhp 

Torque: 250Nm 

Price: Dh64,500

On sale: Now

if you go
Updated: October 03, 2021, 2:03 PM