British label Vivienne Westwood made its debut on the Saudi Arabian catwalks last night, delivering a blockbuster show on the opening day of Riyadh Fashion Week.
During the annual event, which has been running since October 2023, Saudi Arabia's fashion crowd turned out to celebrate and support global names as well as emerging designers from the kingdom.
In a sign of the growing influence of the event, Vivienne Westwood showed a collection created in collaboration with Art of Heritage, an organisation committed to the preservation and conservation of Saudi cultural heritage and training the kingdom's craftswomen, the collection centred largely on evening wear – fitting for dressy clientele.
The show was marked by Westwood’s unmistakable DNA, most notably corsetry, seen in the Galaxy dress: a burgundy silk gown hand-embroidered in orange, red and gold, finished with artisanal bridal techniques from eastern Saudi Arabia. More corsetry appeared as a mini dress and floaty green chiffon piece, both echoing the label’s signature mix of structure and fluidity.
Designer Andreas Kronthaler, who has led the brand since Westwood’s death in 2022, also revisited her famous tartan, rendered in leg-of-mutton-sleeved draped dresses and sharp jackets, while fine tailoring swept past with three-piece trouser suits for women and men.
For the finale, Kronthaler sent out a parade of glamorous gowns, closing with Lebanese model and entrepreneur Jessica Kahawaty in the Bird of Paradise taffeta gown - a full-skirted, Baroque-inspired silhouette hand-embroidered in silver and gold metalwork, a nod to the northern Zabon region.
Elsewhere, Saudi designer Tima Abid presented a show brimming with the occasion wear for which she is known. Richly constructed, one look was entirely covered in white fabric flowers – down to the gloves and high collar that obscured the face – while another was sculpted from a circular expanse of black cloth framing the torso. A third, high-necked design in sheer caramel tones, was intricately boned to stand proud from the hips.
Also showing on the opening day, Atelier Hekayat unveiled a grand, Alice in Wonderland-inspired collection. A harlequin print cloaked a tiered bubble dress, while a Queen of Hearts-style neck ruff topped a long black gown and another dress was sprinkled with tiny black hearts. Elsewhere, a baby-blue high-low dress was paired with striped leggings and a trailing train, while a kick-flare skirt and shirt were cut from fabric printed with sketches of dresses.
Vibrant, theatrical and full of movement, it was a bolder direction than clients might expect – but one that showcased the cutting prowess and imagination for which the Saudi house is known.
Spotted front row at the Palm Court venue were Thai actors Win Metawin and Faye Peraya Malisorn, who were sitting next to Burak Cakmak, chief executive of the Saudi Arabian Fashion Commission.
