Most hair trends, from butterfly bobs to Taylor Swift-inspired fringes, come and go. Others move in an upwards trajectory. Over the past few years, the world of haircare has merged more and more with its close companion, skincare.
The so-called skinification of hair “involves using ingredients and approaches traditionally associated with skincare in haircare products, which has likely risen due to increasing consumer focus on overall wellness”, explains Dr Tanya Unni, a cosmetic care specialist.
Skin-worthy ingredients
Skincare brands such as The Ordinary and Inkey List make star ingredients their key selling point – even deconstructing skincare to sell products such as retinol, vitamin C, and niacinamide as individual steps to be mixed and matched into a personal cosmetic cocktail. Haircare has now followed suit.
“As people become more conscious of the need for holistic care, they seek products that offer multiple benefits beyond just addressing specific concerns,” notes Dr Unni. “Hair products now include ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, niacinamide and ceramides, traditionally found in skincare, to provide hydration, nourishment and protection to the hair and scalp.”
cosmetic care specialist
Experts say hyaluronic acid's humectant properties help hair retain moisture and reduce dehydration; and that niacinamide is a powerful form of vitamin B3 that can fortify and strengthen strands. Because they are a vital component of the follicle structure, ceramides strengthen and smooth brittle hair.
The haircare trend is an opportunity to create a more personalised routine, much like how the deconstructed-skincare approach allows consumers to rebuild a tailor-made day and night cream to suit their needs.
Dr Unni says picking products based on holistic benefits can ensure “solutions tailored to individual scalp and hair needs, potentially leading to better results and a more effective regimen. The understanding is that protecting the scalp and maintaining the scalp environment is crucial in preventing hair loss.”
Scrub up scalp care
Jamilla Paul, hair artist and creative director at Schwarzkopf Professional GCC, says: “For me, healthy scalp equals healthy hair. It all begins there. This region especially has a very large number of people suffering with major scalp issues, which equals many hair issues.”
Paul says more stylists are recommending scalp regimes to their clients. “The importance of exfoliation on the scalp, like on the skin, is the number-one priority. If we do not exfoliate, hair health will suffer with a build-up of dead skin, oil, dirt and product. This leads to the hair follicle being blocked.”
Schwarzkopf's Scalp Clinic Pre-Shampoo Scrub incorporates biotic technology. It means the scalp's microbiome – the unique microorganisms in one environment in or on the body – has been considered in the formulations, aiming to help balance the environment to improve the health and condition of hair.
There are plenty of premium options on the market for those willing to invest, but scalp care does not have to involve excessive spending. Many high-street brands sell textured scrubs (much like classic body exfoliators), too, that can be applied before shampooing, and online retailers such as Noon, Temu and Amazon sell plastic scalp massagers (which should have a long shelf life) for as little as Dh7. Experts recommend massaging gently on to wet hair in the shower once or twice a week.
“The positives of a hair follicle not being blocked from such impurities are fuller, thicker hair, less hair loss and, of course, healthier, frizz-free shiner locks as our cuticle will be smoother,” adds Paul.
However, she cautions: “If you have an excessive scalp condition such as eczema or psoriasis, consult a dermatologist or trichologist before starting a new regimen.”
Step ahead with supplements
The skinification trend in haircare is a multi-step regimen for A-Z hair routines. And one of these steps includes thinking about how to care for hair from the outside in.
Paul says: “We need to treat our scalp like we do our nutrition. We have to nourish it to feed the hair follicle to pass on the goodness to our locks.”
While some people are experimenting with kitchen staples to create home-made hair products, others are seeking out food with lock-boosting nutrients.
Ingredients such as collagen shots and beauty glow gummies are increasingly popular. While hair supplements are not new, they are enjoying a resurgence as holistic beauty takes a front seat, hitting an all-time high on Google Trends this year.
To nourish hair from within, experts recommend looking out for foods or supplements containing vitamins A, C and E, as well as omega-rich fatty acids and protein. They say it is advisable to speak to a medical professional before adopting a new supplement routine.
Embracing the skinification of hair adds complexity to any routine, however. Dr Unni says those with sensitive skin should not to go overboard by adding too many steps at once.
“This may lead to product build-up on the scalp and hair if not properly cleansed, potentially causing issues like greasiness or dullness,” she explains. “Ultimately, while the skinification trend can offer benefits to many, it's important to consider individual factors such as hair type, skin sensitivity, and scalp conditions to determine the most suitable products and approaches for your haircare routine.”
