Spanish fast fashion brand Zara is facing a boycott for its latest advertising campaign, which features a model standing amid rubble, posing with what looks like a body wrapped in a shroud.
The images – created to sell clothes – feel uncomfortably close to the real-life tragedy unfolding in Gaza.
Social media is flooded with distressing scenes of maimed and injured civilians, while whole neighbourhoods have been wiped off the map. The sheer horror of the information coming out of Gaza, where the destruction is being documented in real-time, makes Zara's decision to go ahead with its latest campaign all the more depressing.
At best it is tone-deaf. Perhaps Zara shot its images before October 7 and the subsequent violence and destruction that has unfolded in Gaza. But the campaign was nevertheless approved for release to the public in the middle of the conflict.
For any brand to believe human devastation is a suitable theme for a fashion shoot is beyond comprehension. So the big question is how, in 2023, can this have been allowed to happen?
The fashion world has always courted controversy, with the link between fashion and real life running deep as it looks to reflect broader moods across society. The full-skirted excess of Christian Dior’s 1947 New Look, for example, can be seen as pushback against the austerity of the Second World War, while the mini skirt of the 1960s heralded new social freedoms for women.
Capturing these important social shifts is the role of fashion photography, as it looks to push boundaries and challenge norms. Working hand in hand with fashion design, it creates imagery that echoes the coming mood.
In the early 1990s, images of a young Kate Moss coincided with the rise of musical grunge, sparking an obsession with thinness dubbed “heroin chic”. The hedonism of that decade, meanwhile, was summed up by the original supermodels, Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campbell and Christie Turlington, dressed in head-to-toe Versace.
As it seeks to capture the zeitgeist, fashion photography skirts around topics deemed taboo and off-limits. In the late 1980s, Italian company Benetton began making deliberately provocative campaigns featuring, among others, death-row inmates, a murder victim, a dying Aids patient, and a priest and nun kissing.
Then-creative director Oliviero Tuscani explained his intention to stir things up, saying that advertising was the perfect medium to tackle unpleasant prejudice head-on. “Just advertising a product is a waste of communication,” he said.
In 2010, Vogue Italia raised eyebrows when it ran a fashion story inspired by a spill of crude oil that devastated the landscape and wildlife of the Gulf of Mexico. Shot by Steven Meisel – who has always flirted with difficult topics, including domestic abuse and murder – the images star Kristen McMenamy, the same model, incidentally, who appears in the recent Zara campaign.
Just last year, Balenciaga managed to offend its audience not once, but twice, after it released a campaign featuring a teddy bear – typically regarded as a children's toy – dressed in padlock necklaces and harnesses. A second image, starring Nicole Kidman, threw fuel on the fire when eagle-eyed customers noticed that a pile of papers in the image were legal documents pertaining to a child sexual abuse case.
The backlash was fast and brutal, exacerbated by the brand’s attempt to shift blame away from itself and on to the team who shot the images, as if it had not seen and approved every element.
In 2018, Italian luxury house Prada was forced to issue an apology and withdraw products from sale after pieces of its Pradamalia line were condemned for using blackface. Monkey-style characters with large red lips, the Otto figurines were deemed reminiscent of the 1930s American genre that saw white actors dress as black people for entertainment.
The lawsuit that followed saw Prada agree to create a scholarship for racial minorities across its ranks, roll out racial equity training and appoint a full-time diversity office, as well as obligating it to report to the NYC Human Rights Commission for two years.
While the fallout should have rung alarm bells across the industry, three months later, Gucci ran into trouble for almost the same reason. It was forced to withdraw a high-necked sweater designed to be worn half covering the face and decorated with blackface-style red lips.
In May the same year, the brand released a Sikh turban costing about $800. The piece drew condemnation from the Sikh community for monetising a religious head covering.
The ensuing backlash saw Gucci's then-chief executive Marco Bizzarri set up internal training to “increase inclusivity, diversity, participation and cultural awareness”, while then-creative director, Alessandro Michele, took “full accountability” for the “unintentional effects” of his designs.
In early 2018, Swedish fashion chain H&M was also forced to offer a public apology after it photographed a black child in a sweatshirt with the words “coolest monkey in the jungle”.
The same year, Italian house Dolce & Gabbana triggered a China-wide boycott of its products following the release of an online campaign that seemed to mock how Chinese people eat and pronounce foreign words.
Showing a model struggling to eat pasta with chopsticks – China invented noodles, the forerunner to pasta, over 4,000 years ago – the images were proclaimed as cliched and offensive by millions of Chinese consumers, causing Dolce & Gabbana products to be removed from shelves across the country, effectively shutting it out of a billion-dollar luxury market. Despite an apology from the designers, the fallout continues five years later.
Notable moments in society have inspired fashion and photography, and will continue to do so. What makes the mistakes listed above all the more depressing is that each one would have passed through a battery of different desks and departments before being exposed to the public.
From the advertising agency that came up with the idea and the brand headquarters that approved it, to the team tasked with shooting the final image, no one seems to have stood up and said: “Perhaps this isn't such a great idea after all.”
Either they weren't listened to, or simply no one flagged anything as problematic or racist, while brands scrabbling to hit that zeitgeist sweet spot signed off images and ideas that are at best tone-deaf and at worst exploitative.
The road from first idea to final product is long and complex, meaning none of these mistakes are knee-jerk, raising the question that if these were the ideas allowed to filter through to the public, what were the ones that were blocked?
This is an unacceptable failing from a sector that prides itself as setting the pulse we all follow.
Zara is not alone in falling foul over Gaza. British retailer Marks & Spencer has been criticised for its festive advert, which shows traditional paper hats being burnt in a fireplace. Accompanied with the caption, “This Christmas, do only what you love”, it was deemed offensive after the colours of the hats were seen to match those of the Palestinian flag.
M&S withdrew the images and apologised, explaining they were created before the latest round of hostilities. With red, green and silver or white the traditional colours of festive hats, perhaps this one is open to interpretation.
Perhaps Zara, too, shot its images before the conflict started, but the issue is that the images released this week – depicting rubble, mannequins in body bags and dismembered statues – were not pulled.
In a situation where we are running out of words to describe the scale of the human suffering unfolding in front of us, only three words remain for Zara and its cynical ploy to be edgy: Shame on you.
The specs: 2019 Mercedes-Benz C200 Coupe
Price, base: Dh201,153
Engine: 2.0-litre turbocharged four-cylinder
Transmission: Nine-speed automatic
Power: 204hp @ 5,800rpm
Torque: 300Nm @ 1,600rpm
Fuel economy, combined: 6.7L / 100km
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COMPANY%20PROFILE
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Fines for littering
In Dubai:
Dh200 for littering or spitting in the Dubai Metro
Dh500 for throwing cigarette butts or chewing gum on the floor, or littering from a vehicle.
Dh1,000 for littering on a beach, spitting in public places, throwing a cigarette butt from a vehicle
In Sharjah and other emirates
Dh500 for littering - including cigarette butts and chewing gum - in public places and beaches in Sharjah
Dh2,000 for littering in Sharjah deserts
Dh500 for littering from a vehicle in Ras Al Khaimah
Dh1,000 for littering from a car in Abu Dhabi
Dh1,000 to Dh100,000 for dumping waste in residential or public areas in Al Ain
Dh10,000 for littering at Ajman's beaches
The Sand Castle
Director: Matty Brown
Stars: Nadine Labaki, Ziad Bakri, Zain Al Rafeea, Riman Al Rafeea
Rating: 2.5/5
Global state-owned investor ranking by size
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The Indoor Cricket World Cup
When: September 16-23
Where: Insportz, Dubai
Indoor cricket World Cup:
Insportz, Dubai, September 16-23
UAE fixtures:
Men
Saturday, September 16 – 1.45pm, v New Zealand
Sunday, September 17 – 10.30am, v Australia; 3.45pm, v South Africa
Monday, September 18 – 2pm, v England; 7.15pm, v India
Tuesday, September 19 – 12.15pm, v Singapore; 5.30pm, v Sri Lanka
Thursday, September 21 – 2pm v Malaysia
Friday, September 22 – 3.30pm, semi-final
Saturday, September 23 – 3pm, grand final
Women
Saturday, September 16 – 5.15pm, v Australia
Sunday, September 17 – 2pm, v South Africa; 7.15pm, v New Zealand
Monday, September 18 – 5.30pm, v England
Tuesday, September 19 – 10.30am, v New Zealand; 3.45pm, v South Africa
Thursday, September 21 – 12.15pm, v Australia
Friday, September 22 – 1.30pm, semi-final
Saturday, September 23 – 1pm, grand final
COMPANY%20PROFILE%20
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Lexus LX700h specs
Engine: 3.4-litre twin-turbo V6 plus supplementary electric motor
Power: 464hp at 5,200rpm
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Pharaoh's curse
British aristocrat Lord Carnarvon, who funded the expedition to find the Tutankhamun tomb, died in a Cairo hotel four months after the crypt was opened.
He had been in poor health for many years after a car crash, and a mosquito bite made worse by a shaving cut led to blood poisoning and pneumonia.
Reports at the time said Lord Carnarvon suffered from “pain as the inflammation affected the nasal passages and eyes”.
Decades later, scientists contended he had died of aspergillosis after inhaling spores of the fungus aspergillus in the tomb, which can lie dormant for months. The fact several others who entered were also found dead withiin a short time led to the myth of the curse.
Profile of Whizkey
Date founded: 04 November 2017
Founders: Abdulaziz AlBlooshi and Harsh Hirani
Based: Dubai, UAE
Number of employees: 10
Sector: AI, software
Cashflow: Dh2.5 Million
Funding stage: Series A
'Top Gun: Maverick'
Rating: 4/5
Directed by: Joseph Kosinski
Starring: Tom Cruise, Val Kilmer, Jennifer Connelly, Jon Hamm, Miles Teller, Glen Powell, Ed Harris
House-hunting
Top 10 locations for inquiries from US house hunters, according to Rightmove
- Edinburgh, Scotland
- Westminster, London
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Ferrari 12Cilindri specs
Engine: naturally aspirated 6.5-liter V12
Power: 819hp
Torque: 678Nm at 7,250rpm
Price: From Dh1,700,000
Available: Now
How much do leading UAE’s UK curriculum schools charge for Year 6?
- Nord Anglia International School (Dubai) – Dh85,032
- Kings School Al Barsha (Dubai) – Dh71,905
- Brighton College Abu Dhabi - Dh68,560
- Jumeirah English Speaking School (Dubai) – Dh59,728
- Gems Wellington International School – Dubai Branch – Dh58,488
- The British School Al Khubairat (Abu Dhabi) - Dh54,170
- Dubai English Speaking School – Dh51,269
*Annual tuition fees covering the 2024/2025 academic year
Gothia Cup 2025
4,872 matches
1,942 teams
116 pitches
76 nations
26 UAE teams
15 Lebanese teams
2 Kuwaiti teams
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
MISSION: IMPOSSIBLE – FINAL RECKONING
Director: Christopher McQuarrie
Starring: Tom Cruise, Hayley Atwell, Simon Pegg
Rating: 4/5
GAC GS8 Specs
Engine: 2.0-litre 4cyl turbo
Power: 248hp at 5,200rpm
Torque: 400Nm at 1,750-4,000rpm
Transmission: 8-speed auto
Fuel consumption: 9.1L/100km
On sale: Now
Price: From Dh149,900
Mohammed bin Zayed Majlis
Tearful appearance
Chancellor Rachel Reeves set markets on edge as she appeared visibly distraught in parliament on Wednesday.
Legislative setbacks for the government have blown a new hole in the budgetary calculations at a time when the deficit is stubbornly large and the economy is struggling to grow.
She appeared with Keir Starmer on Thursday and the pair embraced, but he had failed to give her his backing as she cried a day earlier.
A spokesman said her upset demeanour was due to a personal matter.
Key facilities
- Olympic-size swimming pool with a split bulkhead for multi-use configurations, including water polo and 50m/25m training lanes
- Premier League-standard football pitch
- 400m Olympic running track
- NBA-spec basketball court with auditorium
- 600-seat auditorium
- Spaces for historical and cultural exploration
- An elevated football field that doubles as a helipad
- Specialist robotics and science laboratories
- AR and VR-enabled learning centres
- Disruption Lab and Research Centre for developing entrepreneurial skills
Nayanthara: Beyond The Fairy Tale
Starring: Nayanthara, Vignesh Shivan, Radhika Sarathkumar, Nagarjuna Akkineni
Director: Amith Krishnan
Rating: 3.5/5
SQUADS
South Africa:
Faf du Plessis (capt), Hashim Amla, Temba Bavuma, Farhaan Behardien, Quinton de Kock (wkt), AB de Villiers, JP Duminy, Imran Tahir, David Miller, Wayne Parnell, Dane Paterson, Andile Phehlukwayo, Dwaine Pretorius, Kagiso Rabada
Coach: Ottis Gibson
Bangladesh:
Mashrafe Mortaza (capt), Imrul Kayes, Liton Das (wkt), Mahmudullah, Mehidy Hasan, Mohammad Saifuddin, Mominul Haque, Mushfiqur Rahim (wkt), Mustafizur Rahman, Nasir Hossain, Rubel Hossain, Sabbir Rahman, Shakib Al Hasan, Soumya Sarkar, Tamim Iqbal, Taskin Ahmed.
Coach: Chandika Hathurusingha
If you go...
Etihad Airways flies from Abu Dhabi to Kuala Lumpur, from about Dh3,600. Air Asia currently flies from Kuala Lumpur to Terengganu, with Berjaya Hotels & Resorts planning to launch direct chartered flights to Redang Island in the near future. Rooms at The Taaras Beach and Spa Resort start from 680RM (Dh597).
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
MORE ON IRAN'S PROXY WARS
Jebel Ali Dragons 26 Bahrain 23
Dragons
Tries: Hayes, Richards, Cooper
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What's in the deal?
Agreement aims to boost trade by £25.5bn a year in the long run, compared with a total of £42.6bn in 2024
India will slash levies on medical devices, machinery, cosmetics, soft drinks and lamb.
India will also cut automotive tariffs to 10% under a quota from over 100% currently.
Indian employees in the UK will receive three years exemption from social security payments
India expects 99% of exports to benefit from zero duty, raising opportunities for textiles, marine products, footwear and jewellery
Abaya trends
The utilitarian robe held dear by Arab women is undergoing a change that reveals it as an elegant and graceful garment available in a range of colours and fabrics, while retaining its traditional appeal.
The%20Emperor%20and%20the%20Elephant
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EAuthor%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3ESam%20Ottewill-Soulsby%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EPublisher%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EPrinceton%20University%20Press%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EPages%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E392%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EAvailable%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EJuly%2011%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
