Dolce & Gabbana strips back with 'authentically Italian' Alta Moda collection in Puglia


Farah Andrews
  • English
  • Arabic

“If there is one word for this collection, it's authenticity,” said Stefano Gabbana, as Domenico Dolce nodded in agreement, hours before the unveiling of Dolce & Gabbana's 2023 Alta Moda line in Italy.

And as I watched the collection come to life on the streets of Alberobello in the heart of Puglia, it was clearly a love letter to the southern Italian region.

With a pared-back colour palette of black, white and blush, with occasional splashes of gold, red, violet and blue, the collection is a significant departure from 2022's fantasy and colour-packed demonstration of exuberance, which was unveiled in Sicily last July.

The collection is magical, transformative
Dame Helen Mirren

Much more than a runway show, the experience began at the entrance to the town's winding streets.

Those attending walked through Alberobello, meeting townspeople and craftsmen and women, before finally making their way to the piazza at its heart.

Guests – including Kim Kardashian, Christian Bale, Kerry Washington and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley – then took their places on the front-row set in the town's main piazza.

Known for its trulli, whitewashed stone huts with conical roofs, Alberobello was a perfect backdrop to the collection, a celebration of Italian fatto a mano (handmade) craftsmanship.

A model wearing a basket-weave dress and Apulian trullo roof-inspired headpiece walks the Dolce & Gabbana Alta Moda runway. Farah Andrews / The National
A model wearing a basket-weave dress and Apulian trullo roof-inspired headpiece walks the Dolce & Gabbana Alta Moda runway. Farah Andrews / The National

“Ancient crafts are still practised [in Alberobello] with love for fatto a mano, there is nothing artificial about it,” announced a voice-over as the show began.

The first look was of a sheer black gown with a black conical headpiece, inspired by the shape of the Apulian roofs in the background.

What followed was a stream of 86 striking looks. A monochrome colour scheme was prevalent throughout, with floral motifs, and models carrying baskets of bread in lieu of handbags and wearing classic Italian headscarves.

As promised by the designers, there were no sequins or over-the-top use of gemstones.

Instead, there was an abundance of lace, lashings of tulle and stunning structure, care of boning and corsetry.

Two full-skirt silk pieces stood out in particular, printed with a townscape reflective of Alberobello with metallic details.

A model wears a skirt printed with an Italian townscape at the 2023 Dolce & Gabbana Alta Moda show. Farah Andrews / The National
A model wears a skirt printed with an Italian townscape at the 2023 Dolce & Gabbana Alta Moda show. Farah Andrews / The National

The show began with townspeople lining the runway, and as it progressed more locals joined the crowd, at one stage bringing a goat and donkey down the path to the runway.

Far from humble, however, the collection featured caped tuxedos, flowing gowns and lingerie-like sheer sultry dresses, worn with thigh-high flat boots or sandals.

Dame Helen Mirren, who had attended the opening night celebrations, was sitting in the front row of the Alta Moda show.

Speaking to The National after the collection had been unveiled, she described the pieces as “magical, transformative,” singling out the use of “structure and corsetry as a highlight of the show”.

The years Ramadan fell in May

1987

1954

1921

1888

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Arctic Monkeys

Tranquillity Base Hotel Casino (Domino) 

 

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18

This is how many recognised sects Lebanon is home to, along with about four million citizens

450,000

More than this many Palestinian refugees are registered with UNRWA in Lebanon, with about 45 per cent of them living in the country’s 12 refugee camps

1.5 million

There are just under 1 million Syrian refugees registered with the UN, although the government puts the figure upwards of 1.5m

73

The percentage of stateless people in Lebanon, who are not of Palestinian origin, born to a Lebanese mother, according to a 2012-2013 study by human rights organisation Frontiers Ruwad Association

18,000

The number of marriages recorded between Lebanese women and foreigners between the years 1995 and 2008, according to a 2009 study backed by the UN Development Programme

77,400

The number of people believed to be affected by the current nationality law, according to the 2009 UN study

4,926

This is how many Lebanese-Palestinian households there were in Lebanon in 2016, according to a census by the Lebanese-Palestinian dialogue committee

'The worst thing you can eat'

Trans fat is typically found in fried and baked goods, but you may be consuming more than you think.

Powdered coffee creamer, microwave popcorn and virtually anything processed with a crust is likely to contain it, as this guide from Mayo Clinic outlines: 

Baked goods - Most cakes, cookies, pie crusts and crackers contain shortening, which is usually made from partially hydrogenated vegetable oil. Ready-made frosting is another source of trans fat.

Snacks - Potato, corn and tortilla chips often contain trans fat. And while popcorn can be a healthy snack, many types of packaged or microwave popcorn use trans fat to help cook or flavour the popcorn.

Fried food - Foods that require deep frying — french fries, doughnuts and fried chicken — can contain trans fat from the oil used in the cooking process.

Refrigerator dough - Products such as canned biscuits and cinnamon rolls often contain trans fat, as do frozen pizza crusts.

Creamer and margarine - Nondairy coffee creamer and stick margarines also may contain partially hydrogenated vegetable oils.

The five pillars of Islam

1. Fasting 

2. Prayer 

3. Hajj 

4. Shahada 

5. Zakat 

Specs

Engine: Dual-motor all-wheel-drive electric

Range: Up to 610km

Power: 905hp

Torque: 985Nm

Price: From Dh439,000

Available: Now

DRIVERS' CHAMPIONSHIP STANDINGS

1. Sebastian Vettel (Ferrari) 171 points
2. Lewis Hamilton (Mercedes-GP) 151
3. Valtteri Bottas (Mercedes-GP) 136
4. Daniel Ricciardo (Red Bull Racing) 107
5. Kimi Raikkonen (Ferrari) 83
6. Sergio Perez (Force India) 50
7. Max Verstappen (Red Bull Racing) 45
8. Esteban Ocon (Force India) 39
9. Carlos Sainz (Torro Rosso) 29
10. Felipe Massa (Williams) 22

The biog

Favourite films: Casablanca and Lawrence of Arabia

Favourite books: Start with Why by Simon Sinek and Good to be Great by Jim Collins

Favourite dish: Grilled fish

Inspiration: Sheikh Zayed's visionary leadership taught me to embrace new challenges.

The burning issue

The internal combustion engine is facing a watershed moment – major manufacturer Volvo is to stop producing petroleum-powered vehicles by 2021 and countries in Europe, including the UK, have vowed to ban their sale before 2040. The National takes a look at the story of one of the most successful technologies of the last 100 years and how it has impacted life in the UAE.

Part three: an affection for classic cars lives on

Read part two: how climate change drove the race for an alternative 

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Dust and sand storms compared

Sand storm

  • Particle size: Larger, heavier sand grains
  • Visibility: Often dramatic with thick "walls" of sand
  • Duration: Short-lived, typically localised
  • Travel distance: Limited 
  • Source: Open desert areas with strong winds

Dust storm

  • Particle size: Much finer, lightweight particles
  • Visibility: Hazy skies but less intense
  • Duration: Can linger for days
  • Travel distance: Long-range, up to thousands of kilometres
  • Source: Can be carried from distant regions
The burning issue

The internal combustion engine is facing a watershed moment – major manufacturer Volvo is to stop producing petroleum-powered vehicles by 2021 and countries in Europe, including the UK, have vowed to ban their sale before 2040. The National takes a look at the story of one of the most successful technologies of the last 100 years and how it has impacted life in the UAE.

Read part three: the age of the electric vehicle begins

Read part two: how climate change drove the race for an alternative 

Read part one: how cars came to the UAE

War and the virus
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1. Fasting

2. Prayer

3. Hajj

4. Shahada

5. Zakat 

UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
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Wydad 2 Urawa 3

Wydad Nahiri 21’, Hajhouj 90'

Urawa Antonio 18’, 60’, Kashiwagi 26’

PRISCILLA
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The years Ramadan fell in May

1987

1954

1921

1888

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Ahmed Raza

UAE cricket captain

Age: 31

Born: Sharjah

Role: Left-arm spinner

One-day internationals: 31 matches, 35 wickets, average 31.4, economy rate 3.95

T20 internationals: 41 matches, 29 wickets, average 30.3, economy rate 6.28

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• Supports military aid for Ukraine, unlike other eurosceptic leaders, but he will oppose its membership in western alliances.

• A nationalist, his campaign slogan was Poland First. "Let's help others, but let's take care of our own citizens first," he said on social media in April.

• Cultivates tough-guy image, posting videos of himself at shooting ranges and in boxing rings.

• Met Donald Trump at the White House and received his backing.

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Cast: Vicky Kaushal, Akshaye Khanna, Diana Penty, Vineet Kumar Singh, Rashmika Mandanna

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Our family matters legal consultant

Name: Hassan Mohsen Elhais

Position: legal consultant with Al Rowaad Advocates and Legal Consultants.

Updated: July 11, 2023, 7:25 AM`