Dolce & Gabbana strips back with 'authentically Italian' Alta Moda collection in Puglia


Farah Andrews
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“If there is one word for this collection, it's authenticity,” said Stefano Gabbana, as Domenico Dolce nodded in agreement, hours before the unveiling of Dolce & Gabbana's 2023 Alta Moda line in Italy.

And as I watched the collection come to life on the streets of Alberobello in the heart of Puglia, it was clearly a love letter to the southern Italian region.

With a pared-back colour palette of black, white and blush, with occasional splashes of gold, red, violet and blue, the collection is a significant departure from 2022's fantasy and colour-packed demonstration of exuberance, which was unveiled in Sicily last July.

The collection is magical, transformative
Dame Helen Mirren

Much more than a runway show, the experience began at the entrance to the town's winding streets.

Those attending walked through Alberobello, meeting townspeople and craftsmen and women, before finally making their way to the piazza at its heart.

Guests – including Kim Kardashian, Christian Bale, Kerry Washington and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley – then took their places on the front-row set in the town's main piazza.

Known for its trulli, whitewashed stone huts with conical roofs, Alberobello was a perfect backdrop to the collection, a celebration of Italian fatto a mano (handmade) craftsmanship.

A model wearing a basket-weave dress and Apulian trullo roof-inspired headpiece walks the Dolce & Gabbana Alta Moda runway. Farah Andrews / The National
A model wearing a basket-weave dress and Apulian trullo roof-inspired headpiece walks the Dolce & Gabbana Alta Moda runway. Farah Andrews / The National

“Ancient crafts are still practised [in Alberobello] with love for fatto a mano, there is nothing artificial about it,” announced a voice-over as the show began.

The first look was of a sheer black gown with a black conical headpiece, inspired by the shape of the Apulian roofs in the background.

What followed was a stream of 86 striking looks. A monochrome colour scheme was prevalent throughout, with floral motifs, and models carrying baskets of bread in lieu of handbags and wearing classic Italian headscarves.

As promised by the designers, there were no sequins or over-the-top use of gemstones.

Instead, there was an abundance of lace, lashings of tulle and stunning structure, care of boning and corsetry.

Two full-skirt silk pieces stood out in particular, printed with a townscape reflective of Alberobello with metallic details.

A model wears a skirt printed with an Italian townscape at the 2023 Dolce & Gabbana Alta Moda show. Farah Andrews / The National
A model wears a skirt printed with an Italian townscape at the 2023 Dolce & Gabbana Alta Moda show. Farah Andrews / The National

The show began with townspeople lining the runway, and as it progressed more locals joined the crowd, at one stage bringing a goat and donkey down the path to the runway.

Far from humble, however, the collection featured caped tuxedos, flowing gowns and lingerie-like sheer sultry dresses, worn with thigh-high flat boots or sandals.

Dame Helen Mirren, who had attended the opening night celebrations, was sitting in the front row of the Alta Moda show.

Speaking to The National after the collection had been unveiled, she described the pieces as “magical, transformative,” singling out the use of “structure and corsetry as a highlight of the show”.

UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
COMPANY%20PROFILE
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The five pillars of Islam

1. Fasting 

2. Prayer 

3. Hajj 

4. Shahada 

5. Zakat 

Company profile

Name: Back to Games and Boardgame Space

Started: Back to Games (2015); Boardgame Space (Mark Azzam became co-founder in 2017)

Founder: Back to Games (Mr Azzam); Boardgame Space (Mr Azzam and Feras Al Bastaki)

Based: Dubai and Abu Dhabi 

Industry: Back to Games (retail); Boardgame Space (wholesale and distribution) 

Funding: Back to Games: self-funded by Mr Azzam with Dh1.3 million; Mr Azzam invested Dh250,000 in Boardgame Space  

Growth: Back to Games: from 300 products in 2015 to 7,000 in 2019; Boardgame Space: from 34 games in 2017 to 3,500 in 2019

RESULT

Brazil 2 Croatia 0
Brazil: 
Neymar (69'), Firmino (90' 3)    

HIJRA

Starring: Lamar Faden, Khairiah Nathmy, Nawaf Al-Dhufairy

Director: Shahad Ameen

Rating: 3/5

THE LOWDOWN

Photograph

Rating: 4/5

Produced by: Poetic License Motion Pictures; RSVP Movies

Director: Ritesh Batra

Cast: Nawazuddin Siddiqui, Sanya Malhotra, Farrukh Jaffar, Deepak Chauhan, Vijay Raaz

Farage on Muslim Brotherhood

Nigel Farage told Reform's annual conference that the party will proscribe the Muslim Brotherhood if he becomes Prime Minister.
"We will stop dangerous organisations with links to terrorism operating in our country," he said. "Quite why we've been so gutless about this – both Labour and Conservative – I don't know.
“All across the Middle East, countries have banned and proscribed the Muslim Brotherhood as a dangerous organisation. We will do the very same.”
It is 10 years since a ground-breaking report into the Muslim Brotherhood by Sir John Jenkins.
Among the former diplomat's findings was an assessment that “the use of extreme violence in the pursuit of the perfect Islamic society” has “never been institutionally disowned” by the movement.
The prime minister at the time, David Cameron, who commissioned the report, said membership or association with the Muslim Brotherhood was a "possible indicator of extremism" but it would not be banned.

GAC GS8 Specs

Engine: 2.0-litre 4cyl turbo

Power: 248hp at 5,200rpm

Torque: 400Nm at 1,750-4,000rpm

Transmission: 8-speed auto

Fuel consumption: 9.1L/100km

On sale: Now

Price: From Dh149,900

Global Fungi Facts

• Scientists estimate there could be as many as 3 million fungal species globally
• Only about 160,000 have been officially described leaving around 90% undiscovered
• Fungi account for roughly 90% of Earth's unknown biodiversity
• Forest fungi help tackle climate change, absorbing up to 36% of global fossil fuel emissions annually and storing around 5 billion tonnes of carbon in the planet's topsoil

The burning issue

The internal combustion engine is facing a watershed moment – major manufacturer Volvo is to stop producing petroleum-powered vehicles by 2021 and countries in Europe, including the UK, have vowed to ban their sale before 2040. The National takes a look at the story of one of the most successful technologies of the last 100 years and how it has impacted life in the UAE. 

Read part four: an affection for classic cars lives on

Read part three: the age of the electric vehicle begins

Read part one: how cars came to the UAE

 

AGL AWARDS

Golden Ball - best Emirati player: Khalfan Mubarak (Al Jazira)
Golden Ball - best foreign player: Igor Coronado (Sharjah)
Golden Glove - best goalkeeper: Adel Al Hosani (Sharjah)
Best Coach - the leader: Abdulaziz Al Anbari (Sharjah)
Fans' Player of the Year: Driss Fetouhi (Dibba)
Golden Boy - best young player: Ali Saleh (Al Wasl)
Best Fans of the Year: Sharjah
Goal of the Year: Michael Ortega (Baniyas)

The years Ramadan fell in May

1987

1954

1921

1888

UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
The candidates

Dr Ayham Ammora, scientist and business executive

Ali Azeem, business leader

Tony Booth, professor of education

Lord Browne, former BP chief executive

Dr Mohamed El-Erian, economist

Professor Wyn Evans, astrophysicist

Dr Mark Mann, scientist

Gina MIller, anti-Brexit campaigner

Lord Smith, former Cabinet minister

Sandi Toksvig, broadcaster

 

Profile box

Company name: baraka
Started: July 2020
Founders: Feras Jalbout and Kunal Taneja
Based: Dubai and Bahrain
Sector: FinTech
Initial investment: $150,000
Current staff: 12
Stage: Pre-seed capital raising of $1 million
Investors: Class 5 Global, FJ Labs, IMO Ventures, The Community Fund, VentureSouq, Fox Ventures, Dr Abdulla Elyas (private investment)

War and the virus
The burning issue

The internal combustion engine is facing a watershed moment – major manufacturer Volvo is to stop producing petroleum-powered vehicles by 2021 and countries in Europe, including the UK, have vowed to ban their sale before 2040. The National takes a look at the story of one of the most successful technologies of the last 100 years and how it has impacted life in the UAE. 

Read part four: an affection for classic cars lives on

Read part three: the age of the electric vehicle begins

Read part two: how climate change drove the race for an alternative 

What is Genes in Space?

Genes in Space is an annual competition first launched by the UAE Space Agency, The National and Boeing in 2015.

It challenges school pupils to design experiments to be conducted in space and it aims to encourage future talent for the UAE’s fledgling space industry. It is the first of its kind in the UAE and, as well as encouraging talent, it also aims to raise interest and awareness among the general population about space exploration. 

UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
Tips for newlyweds to better manage finances

All couples are unique and have to create a financial blueprint that is most suitable for their relationship, says Vijay Valecha, chief investment officer at Century Financial. He offers his top five tips for couples to better manage their finances.

Discuss your assets and debts: When married, it’s important to understand each other’s personal financial situation. It’s necessary to know upfront what each party brings to the table, as debts and assets affect spending habits and joint loan qualifications. Discussing all aspects of their finances as a couple prevents anyone from being blindsided later.

Decide on the financial/saving goals: Spouses should independently list their top goals and share their lists with one another to shape a joint plan. Writing down clear goals will help them determine how much to save each month, how much to put aside for short-term goals, and how they will reach their long-term financial goals.

Set a budget: A budget can keep the couple be mindful of their income and expenses. With a monthly budget, couples will know exactly how much they can spend in a category each month, how much they have to work with and what spending areas need to be evaluated.

Decide who manages what: When it comes to handling finances, it’s a good idea to decide who manages what. For example, one person might take on the day-to-day bills, while the other tackles long-term investments and retirement plans.

Money date nights: Talking about money should be a healthy, ongoing conversation and couples should not wait for something to go wrong. They should set time aside every month to talk about future financial decisions and see the progress they’ve made together towards accomplishing their goals.

The biog

Age: 19 

Profession: medical student at UAE university 

Favourite book: The Ocean at The End of The Lane by Neil Gaiman

Role model: Parents, followed by Fazza (Shiekh Hamdan bin Mohammed)

Favourite poet: Edger Allen Poe 

The Bio

Favourite place in UAE: Al Rams pearling village

What one book should everyone read: Any book written before electricity was invented. When a writer willingly worked under candlelight, you know he/she had a real passion for their craft

Your favourite type of pearl: All of them. No pearl looks the same and each carries its own unique characteristics, like humans

Best time to swim in the sea: When there is enough light to see beneath the surface

The%20Killer
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The five pillars of Islam

1. Fasting

2. Prayer

3. Hajj

4. Shahada

5. Zakat 

Updated: July 11, 2023, 7:25 AM`