Quiet luxury and a €1 million bag at men's Paris Fashion Week

With all the buzz around Pharrell Williams's debut for Louis Vuitton last week, it is easy to forget that his was only the opening show of a very busy week in Paris While Williams pulled out all the stops for his presentation – which featured a gospel choir, performance by Jay-Z and endless Damier checks – other brands went relatively low-key for their shows. With a far more muted palette than the eye-popping colours seen at Vuitton, other men's labels delivered decidedly easy-going propositions. With an overall mood of grown-up gentle elegance, the collections offered a dressier yet truly wearable alternative to streetwear. To mark his fifth anniversary at the maison, Kim Jones delivered a show that featured models rising up from the floor on platforms like beautifully dressed statues. Not only was it hauntingly lovely to witness, this cinematic opening set a tone of quiet wonder, told out in the detailing of Jones' collection. Having delved into the haute couture side of Dior a few seasons ago, here he returned to that treasure trove again, adding floral brooches to suit jackets, scattering loose jewels across masculine tops and cardigans, as well as tracing the house cannage patterning in beading. The famous cross-hatched, stitched Dior cannage pattern is more typically seen on women’s pieces, such as the Lady Dior bag, but Jones reworked it for men this season, as a running theme tying the collection together. He offered it as chunky knitted jumpers run through with pink, boxy suits and shorts in slubby tweed in shades of blues and greys, and as round-shouldered overcoats in apricot tweed. It even appeared on the frames of sunglasses and running across heavy-soled loafers. Over at Givenchy , designer Matthew Williams also delved into the tailoring history of the house, opening his show with four beautifully roomy suits. Cut oversized – either in breadth or length, and with trousers that pooled at the shoes (also seen at the Louis Vuitton show) – these were followed with simple separates, which were anything but. Having struggled to find his feet at Givenchy at times, here Williams kept things simple by reworking everyday pieces that populate every man's wardrobe, with each given a light twist. Wool overcoats, anoraks and eyelet-decorated tops were elongated and expanded, while bomber jackets, tank tops and leather gillets had a shrunken fit. A boxy military jacket evolved into a sleeveless jumpsuit, while an evening jacket arrived snatched in at the waist. On the runway, Loewe creative director Jonathan Anderson once again offered his unique perspective. This arrived as trousers worn almost comically high, while a suede tunic top was also a bag. And this skewed viewpoint is absolutely Anderson's. Never afraid to add a dash of humour to his work, this outing saw two looks as giant fabric swatches, complete with oversized pins and a cream cardigan extended to the floor like a dressing gown – it was even belted the same way. There were double-collared knit jumpers, and what looked like flared denim jeans, but were actually made from thousands of blue crystals. Notably, Williams sat front row at this show, clutching a Vuitton bag worth about €1 million. Lifted straight from his collection, the bright yellow Speedy, made from crocodile leather, came with a solid gold chain and a gold and diamond lock. At Hermes , meanwhile, creative director Veronique Nichanian is the master of understatement. Having helmed the menswear division for 35 years – making her the longest-serving name at any label – she has created her own lexicon for men’s dressing, built around polished ease and meticulous detailing. With this collection, she delivered her trademark languid calm, run through with racy elements. Featuring shorts cut from butter-soft calf skin and roomy trousers turned up at the ankle, she added sheer layers that offered breezy comfort for the wearer. As mesh shirts, singlets and zip-through tops, the effect was deliriously light and sensual. However, the real star of the runway was the company's original bag, the Haut a Courroies, originally conceived to carry riding gear. Now reworked, it arrived in burgundy, burnt chocolate and in ecru canvas.

Quiet luxury and a €1 million bag at men's Paris Fashion Week

Fluid tailoring and extra-long trousers were recurring themes for spring/summer 2024 in the French capital