The textile industry is a vibrant part of India’s rich heritage. However, while the sari is enjoying something of a modern makeover in some cities, several handmade textiles are waning for reasons such as industrial competition, consumer preferences for global fashion and lack of interest from younger generations of artisans.
Alongside some government projects to sustain endangered fabrics, regional techniques and national costumes, independent groups and individuals are attempting to revive various indigenous textile traditions. Here are three to know.
Mekhala sarongs, Nagaland
Theyie Keditsu, 42, has been wearing mekhalas — colourful, handwoven sarongs sported by Naga women — to church since she was 18. She inherited a passion for Naga textiles from her mother, but her interest turned serious when the owner of an established Kohima textile shop told Keditsu that fewer and fewer young women were visiting, and this waning interest would discourage weavers from creating the fabrics.
Galvanised by the conversation, Keditsu started @MekhalaMama in 2017 to change perceptions of these textiles, showcasing them as daily wear with fun and eclectic styling.
The Instagram page features Keditsu with the patterned weaves swept around her in vibrant colours and varying lengths. The images are accompanied by detailed posts about a particular mekhala or the story behind how Keditsu came to acquire it.
For example, for an International Women’s Day event she wore a black-and-white striped mekhala designed by women from the village of Chizami, to honour six achievers among them. This was represented in six diamond-patterned rows at the fabric’s selvedge. To represent Nagaland at a conference, she wore a striking maroon-and-white Angami (named after a Naga ethnic group), which at once conveyed her identity and the skill of the state’s female weavers.
“I want to convince women to invest in our textiles, not only as costumes or outfits for cultural occasions but also as valued items in their wardrobes and repositories of our rich heritage,” says Keditsu, an author, educator and poet who lives in the north-east Indian state of Nagaland.
She explains that weaving in Naga culture is traditionally done on a backstrap loom, which is not ideal for mass production. “To scale up this mode of production would disrupt its essence, which gives our textiles their value,” says Keditsu. For this reason, she hopes to convince weavers and stakeholders to position these textiles as luxury items.
Combating perceptions of traditional fabrics as old-fashioned is another issue Keditsu faces, with many Nagas now favouring western fashion over indigenous textiles. She counters this by demonstrating the contemporary fashion value of mekhalas, styling them with boots, leather jackets, men’s shirts, corsets and quirky tights.
“These textiles last longer than fast-fashion items and are both timeless and fashionable. Most of my mekhalas belong to my mother and grandmothers,” she says.
Toda embroidery, Tamil Nadu
More than 3,500km away from Nagaland, the Todas, an indigenous community considered to be the earliest inhabitants of the Nilgiri Hills in the South Indian state of Tamil Nadu, have a distinctive embroidery tradition. This is most notably seen in striking shawls in red and black on a white background, worn for ceremonies, festivals and ultimately as shrouds.
Practised exclusively by Toda women, the embroidery is done freehand with no tracing or outlines. The reversible fabric, made using woollen thread on a cotton base, is also notable for the darning stitch done from the back of the cloth.
Despite the embroidery having a Geographical Indication tag, sustaining the tradition has been a challenge as the Toda tribe dwindles in population, even as its youth move away for more lucrative job opportunities and cheaper machine-made imitations become more widely available.
Shalom Ooty is a social enterprise that has teamed up with Toda women since 2005 to market and sell their embroidery. “We help make their unique embroidery into marketable products, buying fabric and items on which they embroider, including saris, table linen and Christmas decorations,” says founder Sheela Powell.
Powell recalls her surprise at finding a Toda-embroidery sari online for only 2,000 Indian rupees ($24). “I ordered it to check its authenticity but found it was machine-made, the reverse side had a strip of cloth covering the threads. Genuine Toda hand-embroidery involves painstaking work and skill, and a sari costs about Rs15,000.”
At present, about 250 Toda women sell their embroidery — on everything from laptop holders and handbags to saris — through Shalom Ooty, earning up to Rs4,000 a week.
Even so, Powell is uncertain if these efforts are adequate. “If the younger Toda generation continues to be disinterested in creating the embroidery, then I fear it will die out within a decade,” says Powell, adding that teaching this embroidery beyond the community may be the only way for it to be sustained.
Kunbi sari, Goa
The tourist hotspot of Goa was a hub for the Kunbi sari, a handwoven checkered-patterned cotton sari with a dobby border (a silken flat inset). Worn by the Kunbi and Gawda communities, considered some of the oldest inhabitants of Goa, the sturdy garment was well-suited for work in the fields.
Its decline began during Portuguese rule from the mid-19th century when dressing styles changed and indigenous traditions became diluted. In 2009, textile designer Poonam Pandit worked with late Goan fashion designer Wendell Rodricks to revive the weaving of this garment.
In her quest to galvanise existing weavers, Pandit came upon Baburao Babaji Tilve, known as Kaka, an elderly weaver. Though familiar with the kunbi sari, he was only weaving men’s loincloths — red-and-white-checked kushtis and the white valo — at the time.
“After months of observing and documenting Kaka’s work, he agreed to weave a line of saris with design guidance from Wendell and me,” says Pandit. This collaboration resulted in a contemporary collection of kunbi saris by Rodricks, with the project later handed over to the Goa College of Home Science.
Rodericks passed away in 2020 but his Kunbi saris are available through his brand. Pandit continued her work with Kaka, founding Kalakar Design in 2011, using Goan handloom techniques and designs for contemporary scarves and fabrics.
Pandit balances the traditional and modern through Kalakar, honouring the integrity of the Goan handloom tradition while creating contemporary designs in colour palettes such as ivory and beige and a fun series using neon threads. “We use the same count and construct of the traditional weave and create our products on the old looms,” she says.
While she is currently working on another textile project and Kaka no longer weaves due to health reasons, Pandit intends to expand into handwoven kunbi saris and garments soon, with Kaka’s sons at the loom.
All three entrepreneurs agree that a decline in these textile traditions will obscure the history and cultural identity they embody, ultimately diluting India’s rich heritage. However, they are not giving up hope. Sharing her optimism, Keditsu says @MekhalaMama’s following has grown to 30,000. Many shops now stock fabrics from demand directed from her account.
“Buying even one mekhala can help our women weavers send a child to school. I'm told that I'm an ‘influencer’. If that means more women are investing in and wearing mekhalas because of my account, it is a tag I gladly accept.”
Dengue%20fever%20symptoms
%3Cp%3EHigh%20fever%20(40%C2%B0C%2F104%C2%B0F)%3Cbr%3ESevere%20headache%3Cbr%3EPain%20behind%20the%20eyes%3Cbr%3EMuscle%20and%20joint%20pains%3Cbr%3ENausea%3Cbr%3EVomiting%3Cbr%3ESwollen%20glands%3Cbr%3ERash%26nbsp%3B%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
Switching%20sides
%3Cp%3EMahika%20Gaur%20is%20the%20latest%20Dubai-raised%20athlete%20to%20attain%20top%20honours%20with%20another%20country.%0D%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EVelimir%20Stjepanovic%20(Serbia%2C%20swimming)%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E%0D%3Cbr%3EBorn%20in%20Abu%20Dhabi%20and%20raised%20in%20Dubai%2C%20he%20finished%20sixth%20in%20the%20final%20of%20the%202012%20Olympic%20Games%20in%20London%20in%20the%20200m%20butterfly%20final.%20%0D%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EJonny%20Macdonald%20(Scotland%2C%20rugby%20union)%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E%0D%3Cbr%3EBrought%20up%20in%20Abu%20Dhabi%20and%20represented%20the%20region%20in%20international%20rugby.%20When%20the%20Arabian%20Gulf%20team%20was%20broken%20up%20into%20its%20constituent%20nations%2C%20he%20opted%20to%20play%20for%20Scotland%20instead%2C%20and%20went%20to%20the%20Hong%20Kong%20Sevens.%20%0D%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3ESophie%20Shams%20(England%2C%20rugby%20union)%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E%0D%3Cbr%3EThe%20daughter%20of%20an%20English%20mother%20and%20Emirati%20father%2C%20Shams%20excelled%20at%20rugby%20in%20Dubai%2C%20then%20after%20attending%20university%20in%20the%20UK%20played%20for%20England%20at%20sevens.%20%0D%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
Three ways to limit your social media use
Clinical psychologist, Dr Saliha Afridi at The Lighthouse Arabia suggests three easy things you can do every day to cut back on the time you spend online.
1. Put the social media app in a folder on the second or third screen of your phone so it has to remain a conscious decision to open, rather than something your fingers gravitate towards without consideration.
2. Schedule a time to use social media instead of consistently throughout the day. I recommend setting aside certain times of the day or week when you upload pictures or share information.
3. Take a mental snapshot rather than a photo on your phone. Instead of sharing it with your social world, try to absorb the moment, connect with your feeling, experience the moment with all five of your senses. You will have a memory of that moment more vividly and for far longer than if you take a picture of it.
Key facilities
- Olympic-size swimming pool with a split bulkhead for multi-use configurations, including water polo and 50m/25m training lanes
- Premier League-standard football pitch
- 400m Olympic running track
- NBA-spec basketball court with auditorium
- 600-seat auditorium
- Spaces for historical and cultural exploration
- An elevated football field that doubles as a helipad
- Specialist robotics and science laboratories
- AR and VR-enabled learning centres
- Disruption Lab and Research Centre for developing entrepreneurial skills
Tonight's Chat on The National
Tonight's Chat is a series of online conversations on The National. The series features a diverse range of celebrities, politicians and business leaders from around the Arab world.
Tonight’s Chat host Ricardo Karam is a renowned author and broadcaster who has previously interviewed Bill Gates, Carlos Ghosn, Andre Agassi and the late Zaha Hadid, among others.
Intellectually curious and thought-provoking, Tonight’s Chat moves the conversation forward.
Facebook | Our website | Instagram
Our family matters legal consultant
Name: Hassan Mohsen Elhais
Position: legal consultant with Al Rowaad Advocates and Legal Consultants.
Other workplace saving schemes
- The UAE government announced a retirement savings plan for private and free zone sector employees in 2023.
- Dubai’s savings retirement scheme for foreign employees working in the emirate’s government and public sector came into effect in 2022.
- National Bonds unveiled a Golden Pension Scheme in 2022 to help private-sector foreign employees with their financial planning.
- In April 2021, Hayah Insurance unveiled a workplace savings plan to help UAE employees save for their retirement.
- Lunate, an Abu Dhabi-based investment manager, has launched a fund that will allow UAE private companies to offer employees investment returns on end-of-service benefits.
2025 Fifa Club World Cup groups
Group A: Palmeiras, Porto, Al Ahly, Inter Miami.
Group B: Paris Saint-Germain, Atletico Madrid, Botafogo, Seattle.
Group C: Bayern Munich, Auckland City, Boca Juniors, Benfica.
Group D: Flamengo, ES Tunis, Chelsea, Leon.
Group E: River Plate, Urawa, Monterrey, Inter Milan.
Group F: Fluminense, Borussia Dortmund, Ulsan, Mamelodi Sundowns.
Group G: Manchester City, Wydad, Al Ain, Juventus.
Group H: Real Madrid, Al Hilal, Pachuca, Salzburg.
The alternatives
• Founded in 2014, Telr is a payment aggregator and gateway with an office in Silicon Oasis. It’s e-commerce entry plan costs Dh349 monthly (plus VAT). QR codes direct customers to an online payment page and merchants can generate payments through messaging apps.
• Business Bay’s Pallapay claims 40,000-plus active merchants who can invoice customers and receive payment by card. Fees range from 1.99 per cent plus Dh1 per transaction depending on payment method and location, such as online or via UAE mobile.
• Tap started in May 2013 in Kuwait, allowing Middle East businesses to bill, accept, receive and make payments online “easier, faster and smoother” via goSell and goCollect. It supports more than 10,000 merchants. Monthly fees range from US$65-100, plus card charges of 2.75-3.75 per cent and Dh1.2 per sale.
• 2checkout’s “all-in-one payment gateway and merchant account” accepts payments in 200-plus markets for 2.4-3.9 per cent, plus a Dh1.2-Dh1.8 currency conversion charge. The US provider processes online shop and mobile transactions and has 17,000-plus active digital commerce users.
• PayPal is probably the best-known online goods payment method - usually used for eBay purchases - but can be used to receive funds, providing everyone’s signed up. Costs from 2.9 per cent plus Dh1.2 per transaction.
Living in...
This article is part of a guide on where to live in the UAE. Our reporters will profile some of the country’s most desirable districts, provide an estimate of rental prices and introduce you to some of the residents who call each area home.
The specs
Engine: 2.0-litre 4-cylinder turbo
Power: 240hp at 5,500rpm
Torque: 390Nm at 3,000rpm
Transmission: eight-speed auto
Price: from Dh122,745
On sale: now
more from Janine di Giovanni
More from Neighbourhood Watch:
Pharaoh's curse
British aristocrat Lord Carnarvon, who funded the expedition to find the Tutankhamun tomb, died in a Cairo hotel four months after the crypt was opened.
He had been in poor health for many years after a car crash, and a mosquito bite made worse by a shaving cut led to blood poisoning and pneumonia.
Reports at the time said Lord Carnarvon suffered from “pain as the inflammation affected the nasal passages and eyes”.
Decades later, scientists contended he had died of aspergillosis after inhaling spores of the fungus aspergillus in the tomb, which can lie dormant for months. The fact several others who entered were also found dead withiin a short time led to the myth of the curse.
Jigra
Starring: Alia Bhatt, Vedang Raina, Manoj Pahwa, Harsh Singh
MATCH INFO
Scotland 59 (Tries: Hastings (2), G Horne (3), Turner, Seymour, Barclay, Kinghorn, McInally; Cons: Hastings 8)
Russia 0
The specs: 2018 Audi RS5
Price, base: Dh359,200
Engine: 2.9L twin-turbo V6
Transmission: Eight-speed automatic
Power: 450hp at 5,700rpm
Torque: 600Nm at 1,900rpm
Fuel economy, combined: 8.7L / 100km
SPEC%20SHEET%3A%20APPLE%20M3%20MACBOOK%20AIR%20(13%22)
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EProcessor%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Apple%20M3%2C%208-core%20CPU%2C%20up%20to%2010-core%20CPU%2C%2016-core%20Neural%20Engine%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EDisplay%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%2013.6-inch%20Liquid%20Retina%2C%202560%20x%201664%2C%20224ppi%2C%20500%20nits%2C%20True%20Tone%2C%20wide%20colour%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EMemory%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%208%2F16%2F24GB%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EStorage%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20256%2F512GB%20%2F%201%2F2TB%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EI%2FO%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Thunderbolt%203%2FUSB-4%20(2)%2C%203.5mm%20audio%2C%20Touch%20ID%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EConnectivity%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Wi-Fi%206E%2C%20Bluetooth%205.3%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EBattery%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%2052.6Wh%20lithium-polymer%2C%20up%20to%2018%20hours%2C%20MagSafe%20charging%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3ECamera%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%201080p%20FaceTime%20HD%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EVideo%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Support%20for%20Apple%20ProRes%2C%20HDR%20with%20Dolby%20Vision%2C%20HDR10%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EAudio%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%204-speaker%20system%2C%20wide%20stereo%2C%20support%20for%20Dolby%20Atmos%2C%20Spatial%20Audio%20and%20dynamic%20head%20tracking%20(with%20AirPods)%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EColours%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Midnight%2C%20silver%2C%20space%20grey%2C%20starlight%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EIn%20the%20box%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20MacBook%20Air%2C%2030W%2F35W%20dual-port%2F70w%20power%20adapter%2C%20USB-C-to-MagSafe%20cable%2C%202%20Apple%20stickers%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EPrice%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20From%20Dh4%2C599%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
Bridgerton%20season%20three%20-%20part%20one
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EDirectors%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EVarious%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EStarring%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Nicola%20Coughlan%2C%20Luke%20Newton%2C%20Jonathan%20Bailey%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3ERating%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E3%2F5%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
Killing of Qassem Suleimani
Killing of Qassem Suleimani
UAE tour of the Netherlands
UAE squad: Rohan Mustafa (captain), Shaiman Anwar, Ghulam Shabber, Mohammed Qasim, Rameez Shahzad, Mohammed Usman, Adnan Mufti, Chirag Suri, Ahmed Raza, Imran Haider, Mohammed Naveed, Amjad Javed, Zahoor Khan, Qadeer Ahmed
Fixtures:
Monday, 1st 50-over match
Wednesday, 2nd 50-over match
Thursday, 3rd 50-over match
The specs
Engine: 4.0-litre flat-six
Torque: 450Nm at 6,100rpm
Transmission: 7-speed PDK auto or 6-speed manual
Fuel economy, combined: 13.8L/100km
On sale: Available to order now
Jawan
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EDirector%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EAtlee%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EStars%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Shah%20Rukh%20Khan%2C%20Nayanthara%2C%20Vijay%20Sethupathi%26nbsp%3B%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3ERating%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E4%2F5%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
More from Rashmee Roshan Lall
Squid Game season two
Director: Hwang Dong-hyuk
Stars: Lee Jung-jae, Wi Ha-joon and Lee Byung-hun
Rating: 4.5/5
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
Most sought after workplace benefits in the UAE
- Flexible work arrangements
- Pension support
- Mental well-being assistance
- Insurance coverage for optical, dental, alternative medicine, cancer screening
- Financial well-being incentives
INDIA SQUAD
Rohit Sharma (captain), Shikhar Dhawan (vice-captain), KL Rahul, Suresh Raina, Manish Pandey, Dinesh Karthik (wicketkeeper), Deepak Hooda, Washington Sundar, Yuzvendra Chahal, Axar Patel, Vijay Shankar, Shardul Thakur, Jaydev Unadkat, Mohammad Siraj and Rishabh Pant (wicketkeeper)
Sole survivors
- Cecelia Crocker was on board Northwest Airlines Flight 255 in 1987 when it crashed in Detroit, killing 154 people, including her parents and brother. The plane had hit a light pole on take off
- George Lamson Jr, from Minnesota, was on a Galaxy Airlines flight that crashed in Reno in 1985, killing 68 people. His entire seat was launched out of the plane
- Bahia Bakari, then 12, survived when a Yemenia Airways flight crashed near the Comoros in 2009, killing 152. She was found clinging to wreckage after floating in the ocean for 13 hours.
- Jim Polehinke was the co-pilot and sole survivor of a 2006 Comair flight that crashed in Lexington, Kentucky, killing 49.
