On May 6, some of the world's most valuable gems will take centre stage at the coronation of King Charles III in Westminster Abbey.
One of those is the 530.2-carat Cullinan I diamond set in the Sovereign’s Sceptre. At the moment of his coronation, the king will wear the St Edward’s Crown, originally made for Charles II’s coronation in 1661 and set with rubies, amethysts, sapphires, garnet, topazes and tourmalines. Queen Camilla will be ordained with Queen Mary’s Crown, which has recently been altered to include three of Queen Elizabeth II’s favourite diamond brooches, cut from the same original diamond rough as the Cullinan I.
These are part of the royal regalia, potent symbols of the monarch’s power. However, they are not the only gemstones that will be sparkling in the abbey that day. Although recent news reports suggest the dress code for the coronation may be formal day wear, it is expected that aristocratic guests and royals from overseas will wear their own family tiaras, a tradition last witnessed at Queen Elizabeth II’s coronation in 1953.
Heirloom tiaras are currently being polished up for the occasion, while London’s jewellers have been busy creating glorious new pieces. De Beers, David Morris and Yoko London have all crafted one-of-a-kind creations to mark the coronation. The De Beers design is particularly contemporary and daring, featuring three arcs in blue titanium and platinum, each speckled with diamonds, while pear and baguette-shaped diamond drops are suspended on a fourth arc.
You don’t need to be a member of the nobility to don a tiara, but high-profile royal events always result in a flurry of enquiries at Bond Street jeweller David Morris, where a new wishbone-shaped design set with rose-cut pear-shaped diamonds is attracting attention. “Whenever a major royal event is approaching, we see a rise in requests for tiaras, particularly from the Middle East,” says senior designer Julian Medwell. “At David Morris, we cater to royal families throughout the world, including the Middle East."
Queen Elizabeth II loved pearls and pearl specialist Yoko London anticipates many will be worn in her honour by guests. “Therefore, we felt it fitting to mark the occasion with our own pearl tiara,” says the brand's founder and chief executive, Michael Hakimian.
His special coronation tiara features 24.97 carats of diamonds and South Sea pearls, and is inspired by the historic Lover’s Knot, a royal tiara frequently worn by Princess Diana and nowadays, by Catherine, Princess of Wales.
The coronation is predicted to be a boost for the economy, increasing tourism and uplifting consumer confidence, with customers drawing inspiration from all the jewels on show during the ceremony. “We feel the coronation will shine a spotlight on Britain and therefore expect it will serve to aid in brand recognition for British companies,” says Hakimian. “Made in England is getting stronger.”
This historic moment also gives jewellers the excuse to design something a little bit different. For instance, fine jewellery designer Annoushka has taken inspiration from the St Edward’s Crown to create a miniaturised reproduction. The limited-edition charm will bear the special King Charles III coronation hallmark.
Beyond crowns and tiaras, rings have also been designed. Showcasing their craftsmanship, Mayfair jeweller Boodles has created the Gemini ring, featuring two heart-shaped Cullinan diamonds sourced from the same mine as the diamonds in the Crown Jewels and set in a pink diamond bow.
David Morris, which made the bespoke dragon statue that adorns the bonnet of the Aston Martin that Queen Elizabeth gave to King Charles on his 21st birthday in 1969, has designed a second unique piece — a ring based on the colours of the Union Jack flag, with a central 17.5-carat rare purplish-blue spinel, a red-pink spinel and white diamonds.
Also about to emerge from the workshop is Hirsh London’s tribute, a yellow and cognac diamond butterfly brooch with a “technically challenging” en tremblant movement that is linked to the king’s personal interests. “For over 50 years, King Charles III has been a passionate and influential figure on the topic of environmentalism and sustainability,” says managing director, Sophia Hirsh. "Symbolising hope and new beginnings, we’ve created this Butterfly jewel in tribute to a king that has always been close to nature.”
