Burberry's Daniel Lee stages tribute to British heritage in debut runway show

Faux fur, oversized coats and hot water bottles dominated Burberry’s runway as Daniel Lee presented his vision for the British heritage label at London Fashion Week on Monday.

In a dark marquee in the city's Kennington Park, Lee delivered a colourful take on Burberry's classic camel and black and red checks as the brand moves into a new era under his tenure.

The Bradford, England-born chief creative officer, 37, drew inspiration from Burberry’s affinity with exploration and the outdoors in his first collection for the fashion house, according to the show notes.

Silhouettes were oversized and soft around the edges across both womenswear and menswear. Meanwhile the mackintosh-style trench coat was reimagined in a muted khaki with green faux fur lapels.

English rose-patterned tailoring sat alongside chunky rubber boots with an equestrian twist, cosy square-toed shearling and faux fur shoes in the autumn/winter 2023 collection.

There were also feather-embellished outfits in autumnal tones and pleated tartan-inspired kilts over trousers.

A revamped version of the Equestrian Knight design was blown up on blankets and dresses in blue and white.

Outfits were accessorised with hot water bottles, fuzzy trimmed bags and big scarves.

There was a notable absence of big-name models walking, in contrast with previous Burberry events that have featured those such as Bella Hadid.

Actor Jude Law's daughter Iris, and singer-songwriter Liam Gallagher's son Lennon, both walked Monday's runway.

Lee's outfits are key to chief executive Jonathan Akeroyd's aim to move the 167-year-old brand more upmarket and to attract younger consumers. Monday's show follows the unveiling of Burberry's new logo — a sleeker elongated typeface and a campaign steeped in "Britishness".

The Burberry Classics preview campaign released earlier this month, the first under Lee's creative direction, brought back a redesign of the brand's Equestrian Knight motif and featured British celebrities including footballer Raheem Sterling, rapper and MC Skepta and actress Vanessa Redgrave.

Lee previously created a buzz at Italy's Bottega Veneta with pillowy leather clutch handbags and slip-on heels. He replaced Riccardo Tisci last year.