Shoppers with a penchant for dark hues will have their fashion moment with autumn/winter 2009. Although colours have been appreciated across the board for bringing optimism, their effective visual shock is largely due to the dark and brooding shades that have served as a stark background. Even the boldest and brightest are mere accessories to the strong presence of black this season - a darkness that satisfies the austere demands of the economy as well as a classic style function.
Jonathan Saunders and Thakoon Panichgul both proved this point with their standout collections. Saunders, who has garnered some notoriety for his inventive graphics and colours, used black to create intense visual vibrations against the fierce orange, zingy yellow and vivid reds and bright blues of his garments. Meanwhile, Panichgul, who has been on Michelle's Obama's go-to designer list for some time, concocted a sophisticated outing marked by gloomy-hued frocks and luxe sportswear separates.
These brooding shades also belie a deeper emotional meditation. "I chose to focus on the indelible memories that make me happy, whether recent or moving back in time to a moment of raw, almost naïve, energy," said Maria Cornejo, another Obama favourite, of her Zero collection. On the runway, this vision translated into a parade of models with black circles around their eyes, dressed in menacing black outfits consisting of Samurai-like vests, jumpsuits, dolman wool coats, stretch leather pants, and a cross between a mask and a skull cap.
Unpredictable - and often disappointing - twists have become the hallmark of a season that is shrouded in worldly uncertainty. Carolina Herrera's typically uplifting Latin sensibility gave way to a collection that felt morbid and depressing, in stormy migraine-inducing shades and vampirical shapes. Erin Fetherston, whose whimsical imagination usually delivers flouncy frocks fit for princesses with a devil-may-care outlook on life, conjured up a fantasy land of black dresses with short rounded skirts and very naughty hemlines.
But black does not always denote gloom and glower - in fact, the shade is most serviceable to practicality. Marc Jacobs clashed schoolgirl greys with acid neons and black-based jewel shades, all dressed up in flirty, 1980s-style mini crinis and patterned leggings. And Teddy Willoughby's Bland, an all-black, horror film-inspired collection of meticulously constructed jersey dresses and wool coats, was all about wearable yet avant-garde flair.
"Black looks expensive, but it is actually less expensive to work with because you don't have to deal with lab dips and colour matching as much. It also shows the silhouette better by emphasising the negative space around the garment because of the increase in contrast," said Willoughby.
This functional strategy is something Patrik Rzepski can identify with, featuring strong silhouettes in his huge coats with large lapels, tops with full shoulders, sheer skirts and monastic black dresses. "You can create linear shapes and keep the focus on that - plus black never gets old," Rzepski observed.
This approach goes for menswear too, with the designer Tim Hamilton sticking with dark shades. "Black is always our base color," he said. Hamilton effectively used the hue to convey mischief, as models donned washed and wrinkled motorcycle jackets, plaid shirts and jodhpur-esque trousers that evoked both functionality and intrigue.
Even with these practical offerings, the most important response was that of the show-goers. "We are in an economy where we don't know how long things will stay on the shelves, so you can either go the safe route and keep it black or you can take the risk that way. Given the uncertainty of the times, we're more inclined to focus on what's going to be safe on the rack," admitted the stylist Julie Ragolia. And come rain or shine, whatever the season, economy, or global outlook, black always does seem to be the new black.
* Robert Cordero
The specs
- Engine: 3.9-litre twin-turbo V8
- Power: 640hp
- Torque: 760nm
- On sale: 2026
- Price: Not announced yet
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Other must-tries
Tomato and walnut salad
A lesson in simple, seasonal eating. Wedges of tomato, chunks of cucumber, thinly sliced red onion, coriander or parsley leaves, and perhaps some fresh dill are drizzled with a crushed walnut and garlic dressing. Do consider yourself warned: if you eat this salad in Georgia during the summer months, the tomatoes will be so ripe and flavourful that every tomato you eat from that day forth will taste lacklustre in comparison.
Badrijani nigvzit
A delicious vegetarian snack or starter. It consists of thinly sliced, fried then cooled aubergine smothered with a thick and creamy walnut sauce and folded or rolled. Take note, even though it seems like you should be able to pick these morsels up with your hands, they’re not as durable as they look. A knife and fork is the way to go.
Pkhali
This healthy little dish (a nice antidote to the khachapuri) is usually made with steamed then chopped cabbage, spinach, beetroot or green beans, combined with walnuts, garlic and herbs to make a vegetable pâté or paste. The mix is then often formed into rounds, chilled in the fridge and topped with pomegranate seeds before being served.
The specs: 2017 Dodge Ram 1500 Laramie Longhorn
Price, base / as tested: Dhxxx
Engine: 5.7L V8
Transmission: Eight-speed automatic
Power: 395hp @ 5,600rpm
Torque: 556Nm @ 3,950rpm
Fuel economy, combined: 12.7L / 100km
Global state-owned investor ranking by size
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Canada
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Managing the separation process
- Choose your nursery carefully in the first place
- Relax – and hopefully your child will follow suit
- Inform the staff in advance of your child’s likes and dislikes.
- If you need some extra time to talk to the teachers, make an appointment a few days in advance, rather than attempting to chat on your child’s first day
- The longer you stay, the more upset your child will become. As difficult as it is, walk away. Say a proper goodbye and reassure your child that you will be back
- Be patient. Your child might love it one day and hate it the next
- Stick at it. Don’t give up after the first day or week. It takes time for children to settle into a new routine.And, finally, don’t feel guilty.
MATCH INFO
Real Madrid 2
Vinicius Junior (71') Mariano (90 2')
Barcelona 0
The biog
Favourite car: Ferrari
Likes the colour: Black
Best movie: Avatar
Academic qualifications: Bachelor’s degree in media production from the Higher Colleges of Technology and diploma in production from the New York Film Academy
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
Types of fraud
Phishing: Fraudsters send an unsolicited email that appears to be from a financial institution or online retailer. The hoax email requests that you provide sensitive information, often by clicking on to a link leading to a fake website.
Smishing: The SMS equivalent of phishing. Fraudsters falsify the telephone number through “text spoofing,” so that it appears to be a genuine text from the bank.
Vishing: The telephone equivalent of phishing and smishing. Fraudsters may pose as bank staff, police or government officials. They may persuade the consumer to transfer money or divulge personal information.
SIM swap: Fraudsters duplicate the SIM of your mobile number without your knowledge or authorisation, allowing them to conduct financial transactions with your bank.
Identity theft: Someone illegally obtains your confidential information, through various ways, such as theft of your wallet, bank and utility bill statements, computer intrusion and social networks.
Prize scams: Fraudsters claiming to be authorised representatives from well-known organisations (such as Etisalat, du, Dubai Shopping Festival, Expo2020, Lulu Hypermarket etc) contact victims to tell them they have won a cash prize and request them to share confidential banking details to transfer the prize money.
* Nada El Sawy
The specs: 2018 Alfa Romeo Stelvio
Price, base: Dh198,300
Engine: 2.0L in-line four-cylinder
Transmission: Eight-speed automatic
Power: 280hp @ 5,250rpm
Torque: 400Nm @ 2,250rpm
Fuel economy, combined: 7L / 100km
Key facilities
- Olympic-size swimming pool with a split bulkhead for multi-use configurations, including water polo and 50m/25m training lanes
- Premier League-standard football pitch
- 400m Olympic running track
- NBA-spec basketball court with auditorium
- 600-seat auditorium
- Spaces for historical and cultural exploration
- An elevated football field that doubles as a helipad
- Specialist robotics and science laboratories
- AR and VR-enabled learning centres
- Disruption Lab and Research Centre for developing entrepreneurial skills
KILLING OF QASSEM SULEIMANI
more from Janine di Giovanni
How to come clean about financial infidelity
- Be honest and transparent: It is always better to own up than be found out. Tell your partner everything they want to know. Show remorse. Inform them of the extent of the situation so they know what they are dealing with.
- Work on yourself: Be honest with yourself and your partner and figure out why you did it. Don’t be ashamed to ask for professional help.
- Give it time: Like any breach of trust, it requires time to rebuild. So be consistent, communicate often and be patient with your partner and yourself.
- Discuss your financial situation regularly: Ensure your spouse is involved in financial matters and decisions. Your ability to consistently follow through with what you say you are going to do when it comes to money can make all the difference in your partner’s willingness to trust you again.
- Work on a plan to resolve the problem together: If there is a lot of debt, for example, create a budget and financial plan together and ensure your partner is fully informed, involved and supported.
Carol Glynn, founder of Conscious Finance Coaching
