Boule made from Jim Lahey’s recipe. Deborah L Williams
Boule made from Jim Lahey’s recipe. Deborah L Williams
Boule made from Jim Lahey’s recipe. Deborah L Williams
Boule made from Jim Lahey’s recipe. Deborah L Williams

In uncertain times, what could be more comforting than the certainty of bread?


  • English
  • Arabic

I pull a perfectly crusty boule from my oven. The kitchen smells so good that my children, who are 15 and 19, shuffle out of their rooms, eyes bleary from online learning and video chatting with college friends scattered around the world. The three of us look down at the Instagram-ready loaf. “My god, mum, look what you did. That’s amazing,” says the 19-year-old. He hasn’t been this impressed with me for at least a decade. The 15-year-old bypasses compliments and cuts to the chase: “When can we eat it and do we have good butter?”

We do have good butter. It melts into the warm slices like balm. And, for a few moments, standing there with my children, chewing fresh bread with butter, my mind is quiet. The pandemic-induced anxiety that has been a constant thrumming accompaniment to my every waking minute subsides. I wonder briefly if I could spend the rest of our social-distancing time simply making and eating bread. The kilos will accumulate, true, and I would waddle out of quarantine with a boule-shaped body, but it might not be a bad trade-off, all things considered.

If my hands were deep in dough, I could try to knead away my inchoate grief about a world reeling with loss

By nature, I am not a baker. I am not precise and I don’t like chemistry. I’m a stove-top person: add a bit of this, a dash of that, stir it around, and if it ends up not tasting that great on its own, wrap it in a tortilla and add cheese.

But now, in the desperate uncertainty of the coronavirus pandemic, I don’t want a sprinkle of this or a smattering of that. At a time when no one knows what’s going to happen, what could be more comforting than the certainty of bread? Perhaps that’s the reason for people panic-buying flour: how better to cope with the reality of being vulnerable and overwhelmed by circumstance than by measuring out cups of flour, teaspoons of salt and a sprinkling of the magic that is yeast? It’s precise. Calibrated. An act of domestic faith.

Baking and eating bread offers the writer a sense of control and comfort. Photo: Deborah L Williams
Baking and eating bread offers the writer a sense of control and comfort. Photo: Deborah L Williams

The boule I made comes from Jim Lahey’s (owner of Sullivan Street Bakery) famous “no-knead” recipe, which in some ways is the most magical of recipes because the bread just happens, with almost no human intervention. It emerges as bread, that is to say, even if you stay socially distant from it. And yet, for all of the no-knead deliciousness of Sullivan’s recipe, for my next loaf, I’m going to have to get more involved.

I think I need to dig my hands into the dough, a need explained by Sethe, the heroine of Toni Morrison's Beloved, who ekes out a living as a baker. There's nothing better than kneading bread, she thinks to herself, as a way to "start the day's serious work of beating back the past".

My problems can’t compare to Sethe’s but, like her, I’ve got some things to beat back: worries about my mother, whose immune system has been ravaged by a lifetime of rheumatoid arthritis, and about my 92-year-old father-in-law, now shut-in and alone in his New York apartment. I fret about my students, past and present, many of whom are living in Covid-19 hot spots. If my hands were deep in dough, soft as flesh, I could try to knead away my inchoate grief about a world reeling with loss.

It has a shape, the boule I made, unlike my anxiety, which is a free-­floating miasma that settles over me in the middle of the night like a reverse oxygen mask. It sucks the air out of me, makes it so hard for me to breathe that I stumble to the bathroom in the night and take my temperature. “If I don’t have a fever, I can’t be sick,” I tell myself again and again, mantra-like, until I can fall back to sleep.

I mean, yes, I know, it’s just bread. But it’s also a miracle: a blobby goo that metastasises into ­something edible, beautiful, even nutritious (if you can forego the butter, which I cannot). It’s as if yeast is the anti-­virus: it creates, rather than destroys.

Deborah L Williams is a literature professor at NYU Abu Dhabi

The specs

Engine: 4-litre twin-turbo V8

Transmission: nine-speed

Power: 542bhp

Torque: 700Nm

Price: Dh848,000

On sale: now

The specs

Price, base / as tested Dh135,000

Engine 1.6L turbo

Gearbox Six speed automatic with manual and sports mode

Power 165hp @ 6,000rpm

Torque 240Nm @ 1,400rpm 0-100kph: 9.2 seconds

Top speed 420 kph (governed)

Fuel economy, combined 35.2L / 100km (est)

FA Cup fifth round draw

Sheffield Wednesday v Manchester City
Reading/Cardiff City v Sheffield United
Chelsea v Shrewsbury Town/Liverpool
West Bromwich Albion v Newcastle United/Oxford United
Leicester City v Coventry City/Birmingham City
Northampton Town/Derby County v Manchester United
Southampton/Tottenham Hotspur v Norwich City
Portsmouth v Arsenal 

The years Ramadan fell in May

1987

1954

1921

1888

The Lost Letters of William Woolf
Helen Cullen, Graydon House 

MOUNTAINHEAD REVIEW

Starring: Ramy Youssef, Steve Carell, Jason Schwartzman

Director: Jesse Armstrong

Rating: 3.5/5

Essentials
The flights

Return flights from Dubai to Windhoek, with a combination of Emirates and Air Namibia, cost from US$790 (Dh2,902) via Johannesburg.
The trip
A 10-day self-drive in Namibia staying at a combination of the safari camps mentioned – Okonjima AfriCat, Little Kulala, Desert Rhino/Damaraland, Ongava – costs from $7,000 (Dh25,711) per person, including car hire (Toyota 4x4 or similar), but excluding international flights, with The Luxury Safari Company.
When to go
The cooler winter months, from June to September, are best, especially for game viewing. 

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SPEC%20SHEET
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The five pillars of Islam

1. Fasting

2. Prayer

3. Hajj

4. Shahada

5. Zakat 

While you're here
What%20is%20Dungeons%20%26%20Dragons%3F%20
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UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
COMPANY%20PROFILE
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So what is Spicy Chickenjoy?

Just as McDonald’s has the Big Mac, Jollibee has Spicy Chickenjoy – a piece of fried chicken that’s crispy and spicy on the outside and comes with a side of spaghetti, all covered in tomato sauce and topped with sausage slices and ground beef. It sounds like a recipe that a child would come up with, but perhaps that’s the point – a flavourbomb combination of cheap comfort foods. Chickenjoy is Jollibee’s best-selling product in every country in which it has a presence.
 

Company profile

Date started: December 24, 2018

Founders: Omer Gurel, chief executive and co-founder and Edebali Sener, co-founder and chief technology officer

Based: Dubai Media City

Number of employees: 42 (34 in Dubai and a tech team of eight in Ankara, Turkey)

Sector: ConsumerTech and FinTech

Cashflow: Almost $1 million a year

Funding: Series A funding of $2.5m with Series B plans for May 2020

Drishyam 2

Directed by: Jeethu Joseph

Starring: Mohanlal, Meena, Ansiba, Murali Gopy

Rating: 4 stars

Sole survivors
  • Cecelia Crocker was on board Northwest Airlines Flight 255 in 1987 when it crashed in Detroit, killing 154 people, including her parents and brother. The plane had hit a light pole on take off
  • George Lamson Jr, from Minnesota, was on a Galaxy Airlines flight that crashed in Reno in 1985, killing 68 people. His entire seat was launched out of the plane
  • Bahia Bakari, then 12, survived when a Yemenia Airways flight crashed near the Comoros in 2009, killing 152. She was found clinging to wreckage after floating in the ocean for 13 hours.
  • Jim Polehinke was the co-pilot and sole survivor of a 2006 Comair flight that crashed in Lexington, Kentucky, killing 49.
Singham Again

Director: Rohit Shetty

Stars: Ajay Devgn, Kareena Kapoor Khan, Ranveer Singh, Akshay Kumar, Tiger Shroff, Deepika Padukone

Rating: 3/5

Fighting with My Family

Director: Stephen Merchant 

Stars: Dwayne Johnson, Nick Frost, Lena Headey, Florence Pugh, Thomas Whilley, Tori Ellen Ross, Jack Lowden, Olivia Bernstone, Elroy Powell        

Four stars

MATCH INFO

Rugby World Cup (all times UAE)

Final: England v South Africa, Saturday, 1pm

Infiniti QX80 specs

Engine: twin-turbocharged 3.5-liter V6

Power: 450hp

Torque: 700Nm

Price: From Dh450,000, Autograph model from Dh510,000

Available: Now

The five pillars of Islam

1. Fasting

2. Prayer

3. Hajj

4. Shahada

5. Zakat 

The Florida Project

Director: Sean Baker

Starring: Bria Vinaite, Brooklynn Prince, Willem Dafoe

Four stars

The specs

Engine: Four electric motors, one at each wheel

Power: 579hp

Torque: 859Nm

Transmission: Single-speed automatic

Price: From Dh825,900

On sale: Now

Company%20profile
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3ECompany%20name%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EHakbah%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EStarted%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E2018%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EFounder%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3ENaif%20AbuSaida%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EBased%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3ESaudi%20Arabia%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ESector%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EFinTech%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ECurrent%20number%20of%20staff%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E22%20%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EInitial%20investment%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E%24200%2C000%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EInvestment%20stage%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3Epre-Series%20A%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EInvestors%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EGlobal%20Ventures%20and%20Aditum%20Investment%20Management%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cbr%3E%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
Mrs%20Chatterjee%20Vs%20Norway
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EDirector%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Ashima%20Chibber%C2%A0%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EStars%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Rani%20Mukerji%2C%20Anirban%20Bhattacharya%20and%20Jim%20Sarbh%C2%A0%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3ERating%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%202%2F5%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
F1 The Movie

Starring: Brad Pitt, Damson Idris, Kerry Condon, Javier Bardem

Director: Joseph Kosinski

Rating: 4/5

The specs

Engine: 2.0-litre 4-cylturbo

Transmission: seven-speed DSG automatic

Power: 242bhp

Torque: 370Nm

Price: Dh136,814

SPEC%20SHEET%3A%20APPLE%20IPHONE%2015%20PRO%20MAX
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Muguruza's singles career in stats

WTA titles 3

Prize money US$11,128,219 (Dh40,873,133.82)

Wins / losses 293 / 149

FROM%20THE%20ASHES
%3Cp%3EDirector%3A%20Khalid%20Fahad%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3EStarring%3A%20Shaima%20Al%20Tayeb%2C%20Wafa%20Muhamad%2C%20Hamss%20Bandar%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3ERating%3A%203%2F5%3C%2Fp%3E%0A