A camel fair in the Dubai desert did wonders for my spirit and my spirituality


Suhail Akram
  • English
  • Arabic

The first streaks of orange were lighting up the evening sky, but it wasn’t quite dusk yet. The undulating sand dunes that flashed past me as I drove along the Dubai-Al Ain highway looked as though they were made from gold dust in that light. Cruising in the third lane, I was in no rush.

“I want to hug this weather,” a radio jockey said on his show. The child-like desperation in his voice crackled through the car's speakers. It seemed as though he wanted to get out from his studio.

He probably didn’t, but I did. The first exit I saw was near a mofussil desert town called Al Lisaili. I stopped at a fuel station to grab a coffee and enjoy the winter breeze.

I ought to have continued on the highway to home, just like the flock of birds flying overhead against the setting sun and darkening sky.

As I took the first sip of the sugary Americano wobbling in the cupholder of my car, I noticed a long, unknown road disappearing into the night to my right. Why not, I thought.

I drove along the empty road for a few minutes and, suddenly, I was not alone any more. A grunt of camels greeted me, followed by an escalating murmur of men.

As I rolled down the window in anticipation, I saw it was hundreds of camels and hundreds of men. The animals were draped with checkered blankets over their humps to keep them warm, while the men wore white and brown turbans and long white thobes.

Stumbling upon a Sudanese camel fair in the Dubai desert was an unexpected surprise. Photo: Suhail Akram / The National
Stumbling upon a Sudanese camel fair in the Dubai desert was an unexpected surprise. Photo: Suhail Akram / The National

It felt surreal to think I was only about 50 kms away from the world’s tallest tower. The only other example that came to mind was the time I took the metro from New Delhi to Old Delhi’s Chawri Bazaar. I placed my hand on the railing as the escalator ascended from the bowels of the earth and slammed me straight into one of the world’s noisiest and most colourful markets.

But here, in the Dubai desert, I was catapulted into a different world altogether — not one of chaos or technology, or Netflix’s misplaced notions of the city, but one of sepia, of folklore. I soon learnt I had driven myself into a camel fair. The men had come from Sudan and were camping here, awaiting buyers for their animals.

At the margins of this desert camp, as I walked shyly towards the turbaned men, young Sudanese camel herders jostled around me. I confused them with my broken Arabic, but a smile is often a universal language, so it didn’t take us long to befriend each other.

A young, towering boy grabbed my Canon 5D Mark III camera and pointed to its viewfinder. “Show me how to get this damn thing started,” he seemed to say.

The camels sat in huddles, each group tethered to pegs sprouting out from various sand dunes. One group of animals was draped in blue, another in black and a third in white. Some camels wore nothing – which is not an indecent thing to do among the four-legged.

Most didn't bother when I inched closer to them with my camera. It’s not that we don’t see you, they probably thought; we just deny your existence.

The cold wind bristled over the dunes. I made my way towards a group of men who had lit a bonfire. As my feet dug into the shifting sands, the call to prayer rang out in the distance.

A Sudanese camel herder answers the call to prayer. Photo: Suhail Akram / The National
A Sudanese camel herder answers the call to prayer. Photo: Suhail Akram / The National

Men scattered to ready themselves for prayer. Even a few camels that had been standing, bent down on their front knees and sat down.

Feeling a certain spiritual refreshment, I left the camp soon after. As I drove on the fast lane, I had to urge myself to get back into the frame of mind that adheres to speed limits and lane indicators. In front of me, a glittering Dubai skyline was making itself felt. Behind me, I imagined, the indifferent camels and giggling young men wondered if my being among them meant something.

In any case, I was glad to have gone down the road usually not taken.

Spider-Man: No Way Home

Director: Jon Watts

Stars: Tom Holland, Zendaya, Jacob Batalon 

Rating:*****

The five pillars of Islam

1. Fasting

2. Prayer

3. Hajj

4. Shahada

5. Zakat 

Manchester United's summer dealings

In

Victor Lindelof (Benfica) £30.7 million

Romelu Lukaku (Everton)  £75 million

Nemanja Matic (Chelsea)  £40 million

 

Out

Zlatan Ibrahimovic Released

Wayne Rooney (Everton) Free transfer

Adnan Januzaj (Real Sociedad) £9.8 million

 

 

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What is a black hole?

1. Black holes are objects whose gravity is so strong not even light can escape their pull

2. They can be created when massive stars collapse under their own weight

3. Large black holes can also be formed when smaller ones collide and merge

4. The biggest black holes lurk at the centre of many galaxies, including our own

5. Astronomers believe that when the universe was very young, black holes affected how galaxies formed

UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
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The five pillars of Islam
Barbie
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Nayanthara: Beyond The Fairy Tale

Starring: Nayanthara, Vignesh Shivan, Radhika Sarathkumar, Nagarjuna Akkineni

Director: Amith Krishnan

Rating: 3.5/5

The years Ramadan fell in May

1987

1954

1921

1888

Libya's Gold

UN Panel of Experts found regime secretly sold a fifth of the country's gold reserves. 

The panel’s 2017 report followed a trail to West Africa where large sums of cash and gold were hidden by Abdullah Al Senussi, Qaddafi’s former intelligence chief, in 2011.

Cases filled with cash that was said to amount to $560m in 100 dollar notes, that was kept by a group of Libyans in Ouagadougou, Burkina Faso.

A second stash was said to have been held in Accra, Ghana, inside boxes at the local offices of an international human rights organisation based in France.

Types of bank fraud

1) Phishing

Fraudsters send an unsolicited email that appears to be from a financial institution or online retailer. The hoax email requests that you provide sensitive information, often by clicking on to a link leading to a fake website.

2) Smishing

The SMS equivalent of phishing. Fraudsters falsify the telephone number through “text spoofing,” so that it appears to be a genuine text from the bank.

3) Vishing

The telephone equivalent of phishing and smishing. Fraudsters may pose as bank staff, police or government officials. They may persuade the consumer to transfer money or divulge personal information.

4) SIM swap

Fraudsters duplicate the SIM of your mobile number without your knowledge or authorisation, allowing them to conduct financial transactions with your bank.

5) Identity theft

Someone illegally obtains your confidential information, through various ways, such as theft of your wallet, bank and utility bill statements, computer intrusion and social networks.

6) Prize scams

Fraudsters claiming to be authorised representatives from well-known organisations (such as Etisalat, du, Dubai Shopping Festival, Expo2020, Lulu Hypermarket etc) contact victims to tell them they have won a cash prize and request them to share confidential banking details to transfer the prize money.

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UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets

Adele: The Stories Behind The Songs
Caroline Sullivan
Carlton Books

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WOMAN AND CHILD

Director: Saeed Roustaee

Starring: Parinaz Izadyar, Payman Maadi

Rating: 4/5

Richard Jewell

Director: Clint Eastwood

Stars: Paul Walter Hauser, Sam Rockwell, Brandon Stanley

Two-and-a-half out of five stars 

From Conquest to Deportation

Jeronim Perovic, Hurst

 

Company: Instabug

Founded: 2013

Based: Egypt, Cairo

Sector: IT

Employees: 100

Stage: Series A

Investors: Flat6Labs, Accel, Y Combinator and angel investors

Lexus LX700h specs

Engine: 3.4-litre twin-turbo V6 plus supplementary electric motor

Power: 464hp at 5,200rpm

Torque: 790Nm from 2,000-3,600rpm

Transmission: 10-speed auto

Fuel consumption: 11.7L/100km

On sale: Now

Price: From Dh590,000

The five pillars of Islam

1. Fasting

2. Prayer

3. Hajj

4. Shahada

5. Zakat 

Updated: January 13, 2023, 7:17 AM`