Burberry's spring/summer 2010 collection was shown at London Fashion Week in the traditional way but the new live screenings represent a step forward.
Burberry's spring/summer 2010 collection was shown at London Fashion Week in the traditional way but the new live screenings represent a step forward.

Burberry goes 3D: the future of fashion?



Tonight, at around 8pm, Burberry Prorsum will broadcast its autumn/winter 2010/11 catwalk show live in 3D from its London Fashion Week location to Dubai, New York, Los Angeles, Paris and Tokyo. A bevy of VIPs from the Middle East and India will attend the Dubai event, held at The Address hotel in Dubai Mall, among whom will be six women lucky enough to have been dressed by Burberry Prorsum. The rest will be rocking their most fashion-forward frocks, ready for the post-event party. The screening takes place in a room designed by the brand's chief creative officer Christopher Bailey (though, alas, he didn't have time to design special Burberry 3D glasses - apparently they will be the same as the Avatar ones).

It's pretty big stuff, both for fashion and for Dubai. This season has already seen a flurry of live streamings online by various designers, including Marc Jacobs and Rodarte in New York, while London Fashion Week has a schedule of more than 40 live broadcasts. One wonders, then, what the future for fashion weeks will be. Already the recession has prompted a trend for downsizing shows, whether into tiny, exclusive salon viewings or mere presentations. This has coincided with an improvement in technology and an increase in social networking usage to create a boom in online fashion activities, from e-tailing to iPhone apps.

Burberry has been at the vanguard of this movement, being one of the first to stream last season on live.burberry.com (and allowing live comments from viewers on Facebook and Twitter). The Art of the Trench website, too, has taken -advantage of social-networking and visual blogging trends, inviting viewers to submit their own classic trench coat photographs. For one of the world's oldest fashion brands, this is remarkably forward-thinking, and symptomatic of the constant -reworking of tradition that characterises Bailey's collections for Burberry Prorsum. "Burberry is a 154-year-old company but we have a very young, dynamic attitude and energy," he says. "Digital technology is such a fundamental part of everything we do. It is part of our culture and the way we communicate. We are always exploring all the different ways to make something more exciting or better experience for a consumer or employee, through technology." There is, of course, a risk that fashion brands are making a rod for their own backs. By democratising access to events that were formerly reserved for press, buyers and the odd special customer, the danger is that they inspire fashion fatigue in a public who have seen the clothes that will be in the shops a whole six months ahead. Bailey, though, sees only opportunity here. "The internet and social media allow you to add all these extra dimensions," he says. "Every single lookbook is digital now and when we shoot these or host an event, we capture them in film as well as photos. We might do an interview with the model we use, or play a song from the musician in our campaign. When you are looking at the images it gives you a much broader insight into the brand and how we are thinking. You get the emotion behind the clothes because you can elaborate on the story and the people behind it." Yet having been ahead of the streaming game already, it falls to the British brand to maintain the momentum with ever-more-exciting ideas, and Burberry could not have picked a better time for using 3D, with Avatar fever still running high. Moreover, Burberry, like -Lacoste, which showed a presentation of its New York show by Christophe Lemaire in Dubai last week, is running against the pack and bringing an -element of exclusivity to an inherently democratic medium by hosting an invitation-only event in just a few chosen cities. This is a wise move in light of the brand's previous experiments in popularity. (Think -chav-check baseball caps and so on). And this is where we are reminded that Burberry Prorsum is a very different proposition to the Burberry of Britain's high streets. Over the last few years, Bailey has quietly used the high-fashion branch of the label to push international style directions in a way that has been arguably as influential as Marc Jacobs, not only rescuing the brand from eternal naffness but also making it a recession-defying success. And as for the UAE? Well, while Burberry declined to comment on the specific choice of Dubai, saying each of the five cities was very important to them, it certainly feels like a vote of confidence, both in the -country's economic potential and in its status as a place that enjoys and understands fashion, rather than merely consuming labels. We may not be able to visit Pandora (and how distraught we are), but we can certainly stake a claim in Planet Burberry. gchamp@thenational.ae

UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
At a glance

Global events: Much of the UK’s economic woes were blamed on “increased global uncertainty”, which can be interpreted as the economic impact of the Ukraine war and the uncertainty over Donald Trump’s tariffs.

 

Growth forecasts: Cut for 2025 from 2 per cent to 1 per cent. The OBR watchdog also estimated inflation will average 3.2 per cent this year

 

Welfare: Universal credit health element cut by 50 per cent and frozen for new claimants, building on cuts to the disability and incapacity bill set out earlier this month

 

Spending cuts: Overall day-to day-spending across government cut by £6.1bn in 2029-30 

 

Tax evasion: Steps to crack down on tax evasion to raise “£6.5bn per year” for the public purse

 

Defence: New high-tech weaponry, upgrading HM Naval Base in Portsmouth

 

Housing: Housebuilding to reach its highest in 40 years, with planning reforms helping generate an extra £3.4bn for public finances

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Test

Director: S Sashikanth

Cast: Nayanthara, Siddharth, Meera Jasmine, R Madhavan

Star rating: 2/5

The smuggler

Eldarir had arrived at JFK in January 2020 with three suitcases, containing goods he valued at $300, when he was directed to a search area.
Officers found 41 gold artefacts among the bags, including amulets from a funerary set which prepared the deceased for the afterlife.
Also found was a cartouche of a Ptolemaic king on a relief that was originally part of a royal building or temple. 
The largest single group of items found in Eldarir’s cases were 400 shabtis, or figurines.

Khouli conviction

Khouli smuggled items into the US by making false declarations to customs about the country of origin and value of the items.
According to Immigration and Customs Enforcement, he provided “false provenances which stated that [two] Egyptian antiquities were part of a collection assembled by Khouli's father in Israel in the 1960s” when in fact “Khouli acquired the Egyptian antiquities from other dealers”.
He was sentenced to one year of probation, six months of home confinement and 200 hours of community service in 2012 after admitting buying and smuggling Egyptian antiquities, including coffins, funerary boats and limestone figures.

For sale

A number of other items said to come from the collection of Ezeldeen Taha Eldarir are currently or recently for sale.
Their provenance is described in near identical terms as the British Museum shabti: bought from Salahaddin Sirmali, "authenticated and appraised" by Hossen Rashed, then imported to the US in 1948.

- An Egyptian Mummy mask dating from 700BC-30BC, is on offer for £11,807 ($15,275) online by a seller in Mexico

- A coffin lid dating back to 664BC-332BC was offered for sale by a Colorado-based art dealer, with a starting price of $65,000

- A shabti that was on sale through a Chicago-based coin dealer, dating from 1567BC-1085BC, is up for $1,950

The specs

Engine: 1.4-litre 4-cylinder turbo

Power: 180hp at 5,500rpm

Torque: 250Nm at 3,00rpm

Transmission: 5-speed sequential auto

Price: From Dh139,995

On sale: now

THE SPECS

Engine: 3.6-litre V6

Transmission: eight-speed automatic

Power: 285bhp

Torque: 353Nm

Price: TBA

On sale: Q2, 2020

MATCH INFO

Barcelona 2
Suarez (10'), Messi (52')

Real Madrid 2
Ronaldo (14'), Bale (72')

UAE%20medallists%20at%20Asian%20Games%202023
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Countdown to Zero exhibition will show how disease can be beaten

Countdown to Zero: Defeating Disease, an international multimedia exhibition created by the American Museum of National History in collaboration with The Carter Center, will open in Abu Dhabi a  month before Reaching the Last Mile.

Opening on October 15 and running until November 15, the free exhibition opens at The Galleria mall on Al Maryah Island, and has already been seen at the Jimmy Carter Presidential Library and Museum in Atlanta, the American Museum of Natural History in New York, and the London School of Hygiene and Tropical Medicine.

 

Mercer, the investment consulting arm of US services company Marsh & McLennan, expects its wealth division to at least double its assets under management (AUM) in the Middle East as wealth in the region continues to grow despite economic headwinds, a company official said.

Mercer Wealth, which globally has $160 billion in AUM, plans to boost its AUM in the region to $2-$3bn in the next 2-3 years from the present $1bn, said Yasir AbuShaban, a Dubai-based principal with Mercer Wealth.

Within the next two to three years, we are looking at reaching $2 to $3 billion as a conservative estimate and we do see an opportunity to do so,” said Mr AbuShaban.

Mercer does not directly make investments, but allocates clients’ money they have discretion to, to professional asset managers. They also provide advice to clients.

“We have buying power. We can negotiate on their (client’s) behalf with asset managers to provide them lower fees than they otherwise would have to get on their own,” he added.

Mercer Wealth’s clients include sovereign wealth funds, family offices, and insurance companies among others.

From its office in Dubai, Mercer also looks after Africa, India and Turkey, where they also see opportunity for growth.

Wealth creation in Middle East and Africa (MEA) grew 8.5 per cent to $8.1 trillion last year from $7.5tn in 2015, higher than last year’s global average of 6 per cent and the second-highest growth in a region after Asia-Pacific which grew 9.9 per cent, according to consultancy Boston Consulting Group (BCG). In the region, where wealth grew just 1.9 per cent in 2015 compared with 2014, a pickup in oil prices has helped in wealth generation.

BCG is forecasting MEA wealth will rise to $12tn by 2021, growing at an annual average of 8 per cent.

Drivers of wealth generation in the region will be split evenly between new wealth creation and growth of performance of existing assets, according to BCG.

Another general trend in the region is clients’ looking for a comprehensive approach to investing, according to Mr AbuShaban.

“Institutional investors or some of the families are seeing a slowdown in the available capital they have to invest and in that sense they are looking at optimizing the way they manage their portfolios and making sure they are not investing haphazardly and different parts of their investment are working together,” said Mr AbuShaban.

Some clients also have a higher appetite for risk, given the low interest-rate environment that does not provide enough yield for some institutional investors. These clients are keen to invest in illiquid assets, such as private equity and infrastructure.

“What we have seen is a desire for higher returns in what has been a low-return environment specifically in various fixed income or bonds,” he said.

“In this environment, we have seen a de facto increase in the risk that clients are taking in things like illiquid investments, private equity investments, infrastructure and private debt, those kind of investments were higher illiquidity results in incrementally higher returns.”

The Abu Dhabi Investment Authority, one of the largest sovereign wealth funds, said in its 2016 report that has gradually increased its exposure in direct private equity and private credit transactions, mainly in Asian markets and especially in China and India. The authority’s private equity department focused on structured equities owing to “their defensive characteristics.”

COMPANY PROFILE
Name: ARDH Collective
Based: Dubai
Founders: Alhaan Ahmed, Alyina Ahmed and Maximo Tettamanzi
Sector: Sustainability
Total funding: Self funded
Number of employees: 4
Conservative MPs who have publicly revealed sending letters of no confidence
  1. Steve Baker
  2. Peter Bone
  3. Ben Bradley
  4. Andrew Bridgen
  5. Maria Caulfield​​​​​​​
  6. Simon Clarke 
  7. Philip Davies
  8. Nadine Dorries​​​​​​​
  9. James Duddridge​​​​​​​
  10. Mark Francois 
  11. Chris Green
  12. Adam Holloway
  13. Andrea Jenkyns
  14. Anne-Marie Morris
  15. Sheryll Murray
  16. Jacob Rees-Mogg
  17. Laurence Robertson
  18. Lee Rowley
  19. Henry Smith
  20. Martin Vickers 
  21. John Whittingdale