Brand recognition has become something of a national sport. Based on status symbol rather than practical investment, the luxury industry and its role in self-actualisation do such a faultless job with marketing concepts that we tend to get caught up in the whole Ferris wheel, forgetting about quality and its actual worth entirely. As foolishly as a moth to a flame, the modern mid-level consumer is doing exactly what is asked of us: buying into branding like it matters. Where we are going wrong lies within our lack of confidence. Not entirely our fault I should add, for fashion can be a fickle beast. “Buy me! Wear me!” they mock – begging, teasing and taunting us to keep up.
That is not to say we shouldn’t splash out on something we love, just that we should learn to differentiate between true craftsmanship and a gimmick. The right stamp, despite what its makers will tell you, will rarely guarantee a long-term practical investment. It will not make us appear richer, thinner or more successful. The turnover of trends is too impermanent. In short, rarity does not necessarily equate to quality.
When preparing to invest, the more traditional assets triumph. Leather, gold, cashmere and silk: all materials with inherent value and, of course, durability. Don’t be afraid to ask where and how things have been produced or what exactly they are made from. In reality, often what most of us feel is expensive is often a garment’s true cost.
Logic will tell us that anything done on a small scale will ultimately remain expensive. Fashion has become cheap only because labour and production standards have been pushed downwards.
It is only when brands cut corners or when things are mass-produced that they appear as a bargain, so try, if nothing else, to be aware of that. My rule of thumb when it comes to the ethical debate is that if you’re questioning it, it’s normally your conscience throwing you a bone.
Aside from the physical labour involved in production, fabric contributes most to cost. When it comes to clothing, lean towards the heavier fabrics that will hold their shape over time. The higher-end brands can afford to use natural fabrics, which in turn will wear better.
Watch how the fabric falls when you try it on. If it moves with ease you are more than likely dealing with quality. Look for attention to detail: hand-finishings, complex embroidery and quality lining all indicate the right level of cost per wear.
What shows real nous is knowing how to beat the enemy at his own game. By buying expensive items out of season in the sales, we can trick the system; you are more likely to get a better quality wardrobe in the long run if you buy your summer dresses or swimwear in January or your heavy coats in July, as the markdown can be as low as 50 per cent.
And remember, one “big ticket item”, such as a good quality bag, coat or pair of shoes, will often help set the tone for the rest of your look, allowing us to buy cautiously the rest of the year.
Innovation, durability and practicality within our style choices all matter, of course, but not as much as our long-term emotional attachment will. So if nothing else, be sure that you are walking out with something you truly appreciate rather than what you have been told is cool.
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