Roni Helou autumn/winter 2017. Courtesy Roni Helou
Roni Helou autumn/winter 2017. Courtesy Roni Helou
Roni Helou autumn/winter 2017. Courtesy Roni Helou
Roni Helou autumn/winter 2017. Courtesy Roni Helou

A preview of Dubai's Fashion Forward 2017


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It's hard to believe, but Fashion Forward, the closest thing that Dubai has to a fashion week, is about to celebrate its 10th edition. That's five years of unstinting support for regional designers, both emerging and established.

Taking place from this Thursday until Sunday, at the new Design Quarter venue in the Dubai Design District, FFWD is celebrating this milestone with an impressive calendar of events, which promises to be bigger and better than ever before. Here is a preview of what we are most looking forward to.

A total of 29 labels are showing this season, with a dozen returning designers, including Roni Helou. The Beirut-based designer was selected by Starch Foundation to launch his brand and showcase his first collection at the ninth Fashion Forward Dubai earlier this year.

Helou's bold use of masculine tailoring for womenswear is already a favourite with The National's Luxury magazine, which used his pieces in its September fashion issue. For Helou's FFWD showcase, we are looking forward to a show he describes as being all about "strong women".

Image from Arwa al Banawi autumn/winter 2017 collection. Courtesy Arwa al Banawi
Image from Arwa al Banawi autumn/winter 2017 collection. Courtesy Arwa al Banawi

Saudi designer Arwa Al Banawi is also back with her trademark sharp blazers and bold patterns, as is Emirati Madiyah Al Sharqi, who will be bringing her signature textured style to FFWD. Skilful at blending weighty fabrics, she is also known for her unusual combinations, such as shearling and lace.

Part of Madiyah al Sharqi autumn winter 2017 FFWD finale show. Courtesy Madiyah al Sharqi
Part of Madiyah al Sharqi autumn winter 2017 FFWD finale show. Courtesy Madiyah al Sharqi

Another welcome return is Hussein Bazaza, whose bold designs are rapidly becoming a talking point. Strong shapes mixed with fearless patterns and colour (chartreuse velvet against digital patterning, anyone?) display a design maturity far beyond this 27-year-old Lebanese designer’s years. Lara Khoury, too, is becoming a force to be reckoned with. Her fluid style, which melds feminine drapery with structured, architectural cuts, is of the moment, yet somehow timeless.

Among the newcomers to FFWD is menswear designer Amine Bendriouich, who draws heavily on a Moroccan heritage to create dynamic menswear that is sparse of cut, but lavishly decorated.

Also new to the schedule is Uniti by Babak Vosoughi, a label that will be bringing edgy urban menswear to Dubai, while the city’s own Varoin Marwah will show off tailoring infused with cultural elements.

Another feature is Mini Fashion: Beyond Native, which is presenting three labels. Dress Addict, by Artem and Victor, is men’s luxe sportswear meets streetwear; Wael offers immaculate men’s suiting; while Zaid Farouki creates womenswear that reinterprets Arabic culture in modern designs.

No FFWD round-up is complete without a nod to the event’s over-the-top finale by Amato, which is now something of a tradition. We caught up with the brand’s designer, Furne One, ahead of the show, to ask why it is so important to be part of FFWD.

“Amato Couture has showcased at FFWD from the very beginning, and the challenge is to raise the bar even higher. We are known for avant-garde and dramatic shows, and this season will be no different. We will be diving into the deep abyss and bringing ashore beautiful gowns, sleek intricate dresses and flowing capes – all with the signature Amato twist. We design for women who are not afraid to explore their fashion styles, and who defy the norms,” says ever flamboyant One.

Part of Amato autumn winter 2017 FFWD finale show. Courtesy Amato
Part of Amato autumn winter 2017 FFWD finale show. Courtesy Amato

The Amato show is always jam-packed, despite a starting time of 10pm. “People line up hours before the show just to get in, and even fight for front row seats and backstage access,” the designer confides.

In addition to the shows, this season sees an expanded series of Fashion Talks that include conversations on day 1 with the queen of digital prints herself, Mary Katrantzou. Day 2 will include talks on the effect of influencers on fashion, while day 3 offers the opportunity to listen to Godfrey Deeny. In a real coup for FFWD, Deeny will be sharing his insights into fashion, gleaned from a career as an international fashion critic, which has seen him described by The Business of Fashion as one of the top 500 people shaping it. Armed as Deeny is with a staggering knowledge and an acerbic wit, this will be a highly entertaining event.

Guests can also look forward to a pop-up store by regional online store The Modist, which will prove a boon for anyone looking to snap up some on-trend pieces. Also, the Fashion Future space in Building 4 will focus on graduate shows, while Building 6 will house the Fashion Cinema and Library. Swiss luxury watchmaker Baume & Mercier is, for a second year, the official timekeeper for FFWD, and as such is collaborating with three regional designers on a special project. Hussein Bazaza, Zayan Ghandour and Rula Galayini are creating one-off straps for Baume & Mercier watches, which will be on show in the brand's boutique in The Dubai Mall, and auctioned for charity next month.

Finally, ahead of the event, on Wednesday, FFWD is holding a D3 Preview, where visitors can get acquainted with designers, browse, shop and have pieces customised.

Above all, it’s a show of support for the region’s enormous talent.

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Company profile

Name: Back to Games and Boardgame Space

Started: Back to Games (2015); Boardgame Space (Mark Azzam became co-founder in 2017)

Founder: Back to Games (Mr Azzam); Boardgame Space (Mr Azzam and Feras Al Bastaki)

Based: Dubai and Abu Dhabi 

Industry: Back to Games (retail); Boardgame Space (wholesale and distribution) 

Funding: Back to Games: self-funded by Mr Azzam with Dh1.3 million; Mr Azzam invested Dh250,000 in Boardgame Space  

Growth: Back to Games: from 300 products in 2015 to 7,000 in 2019; Boardgame Space: from 34 games in 2017 to 3,500 in 2019

UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
BOSH!'s pantry essentials

Nutritional yeast

This is Firth's pick and an ingredient he says, "gives you an instant cheesy flavour". He advises making your own cream cheese with it or simply using it to whip up a mac and cheese or wholesome lasagne. It's available in organic and specialist grocery stores across the UAE.

Seeds

"We've got a big jar of mixed seeds in our kitchen," Theasby explains. "That's what you use to make a bolognese or pie or salad: just grab a handful of seeds and sprinkle them over the top. It's a really good way to make sure you're getting your omegas."

Umami flavours

"I could say soya sauce, but I'll say all umami-makers and have them in the same batch," says Firth. He suggests having items such as Marmite, balsamic vinegar and other general, dark, umami-tasting products in your cupboard "to make your bolognese a little bit more 'umptious'".

Onions and garlic

"If you've got them, you can cook basically anything from that base," says Theasby. "These ingredients are so prevalent in every world cuisine and if you've got them in your cupboard, then you know you've got the foundation of a really nice meal."

Your grain of choice

Whether rice, quinoa, pasta or buckwheat, Firth advises always having a stock of your favourite grains in the cupboard. "That you, you have an instant meal and all you have to do is just chuck a bit of veg in."

Mina Cup winners

Under 12 – Minerva Academy

Under 14 – Unam Pumas

Under 16 – Fursan Hispania

Under 18 – Madenat

Young women have more “financial grit”, but fall behind on investing

In an October survey of young adults aged 16 to 25, Charles Schwab found young women are more driven to reach financial independence than young men (67 per cent versus. 58 per cent). They are more likely to take on extra work to make ends meet and see more value than men in creating a plan to achieve their financial goals. Yet, despite all these good ‘first’ measures, they are investing and saving less than young men – falling early into the financial gender gap.

While the women surveyed report spending 36 per cent less than men, they have far less savings than men ($1,267 versus $2,000) – a nearly 60 per cent difference.

In addition, twice as many young men as women say they would invest spare cash, and almost twice as many young men as women report having investment accounts (though most young adults do not invest at all). 

“Despite their good intentions, young women start to fall behind their male counterparts in savings and investing early on in life,” said Carrie Schwab-Pomerantz, senior vice president, Charles Schwab. “They start off showing a strong financial planning mindset, but there is still room for further education when it comes to managing their day-to-day finances.”

Ms Schwab-Pomerantz says parents should be conveying the same messages to boys and girls about money, but should tailor those conversations based on the individual and gender.

"Our study shows that while boys are spending more than girls, they also are saving more. Have open and honest conversations with your daughters about the wage and savings gap," she said. "Teach kids about the importance of investing – especially girls, who as we see in this study, aren’t investing as much. Part of being financially prepared is learning to make the most of your money, and that means investing early and consistently."

Our legal columnist

Name: Yousef Al Bahar

Advocate at Al Bahar & Associate Advocates and Legal Consultants, established in 1994

Education: Mr Al Bahar was born in 1979 and graduated in 2008 from the Judicial Institute. He took after his father, who was one of the first Emirati lawyers

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Key facilities
  • Olympic-size swimming pool with a split bulkhead for multi-use configurations, including water polo and 50m/25m training lanes
  • Premier League-standard football pitch
  • 400m Olympic running track
  • NBA-spec basketball court with auditorium
  • 600-seat auditorium
  • Spaces for historical and cultural exploration
  • An elevated football field that doubles as a helipad
  • Specialist robotics and science laboratories
  • AR and VR-enabled learning centres
  • Disruption Lab and Research Centre for developing entrepreneurial skills
Benefits of first-time home buyers' scheme
  • Priority access to new homes from participating developers
  • Discounts on sales price of off-plan units
  • Flexible payment plans from developers
  • Mortgages with better interest rates, faster approval times and reduced fees
  • DLD registration fee can be paid through banks or credit cards at zero interest rates
Squid Game season two

Director: Hwang Dong-hyuk 

Stars:  Lee Jung-jae, Wi Ha-joon and Lee Byung-hun

Rating: 4.5/5

The full list of 2020 Brit Award nominees (winners in bold):

British group

Coldplay

Foals

Bring me the Horizon

D-Block Europe

Bastille

British Female

Mabel

Freya Ridings

FKA Twigs

Charli xcx

Mahalia​

British male

Harry Styles

Lewis Capaldi

Dave

Michael Kiwanuka

Stormzy​

Best new artist

Aitch

Lewis Capaldi

Dave

Mabel

Sam Fender

Best song

Ed Sheeran and Justin Bieber - I Don’t Care

Mabel - Don’t Call Me Up

Calvin Harrison and Rag’n’Bone Man - Giant

Dave - Location

Mark Ronson feat. Miley Cyrus - Nothing Breaks Like A Heart

AJ Tracey - Ladbroke Grove

Lewis Capaldi - Someone you Loved

Tom Walker - Just You and I

Sam Smith and Normani - Dancing with a Stranger

Stormzy - Vossi Bop

International female

Ariana Grande

Billie Eilish

Camila Cabello

Lana Del Rey

Lizzo

International male

Bruce Springsteen

Burna Boy

Tyler, The Creator

Dermot Kennedy

Post Malone

Best album

Stormzy - Heavy is the Head

Michael Kiwanuka - Kiwanuka

Lewis Capaldi - Divinely Uninspired to a Hellish Extent

Dave - Psychodrama

Harry Styles - Fine Line

Rising star

Celeste

Joy Crookes

beabadoobee

Match info

What: Fifa Club World Cup play-off
Who: Al Ain v Team Wellington
Where: Hazza bin Zayed Stadium, Al Ain
When: Wednesday, kick off 7.30pm

The more serious side of specialty coffee

While the taste of beans and freshness of roast is paramount to the specialty coffee scene, so is sustainability and workers’ rights.

The bulk of genuine specialty coffee companies aim to improve on these elements in every stage of production via direct relationships with farmers. For instance, Mokha 1450 on Al Wasl Road strives to work predominantly with women-owned and -operated coffee organisations, including female farmers in the Sabree mountains of Yemen.

Because, as the boutique’s owner, Garfield Kerr, points out: “women represent over 90 per cent of the coffee value chain, but are woefully underrepresented in less than 10 per cent of ownership and management throughout the global coffee industry.”

One of the UAE’s largest suppliers of green (meaning not-yet-roasted) beans, Raw Coffee, is a founding member of the Partnership of Gender Equity, which aims to empower female coffee farmers and harvesters.

Also, globally, many companies have found the perfect way to recycle old coffee grounds: they create the perfect fertile soil in which to grow mushrooms. 

The specs
  • Engine: 3.9-litre twin-turbo V8
  • Power: 640hp
  • Torque: 760nm
  • On sale: 2026
  • Price: Not announced yet
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