On a warm September evening, I find myself inside a gorgeous home in Al Yasmin neighbourhood of northern Riyadh.
The majlis is elegantly furnished with cyan blue sofas and silver chandeliers. The air is redolent with the aroma of saffron and cardamom rising from a brass dallah in a corner, slowly brewing gahwa. An irresistible platter of fresh, plump dates and basbousa (baked semolina cake soaked in sugar syrup) is placed in front of me as I exchange pleasantries with my host for the evening, Fatima Oliyan.
Clad in a beautiful white abaya with gold embroidery, Oliyan is one of many Riyadh locals who have opened their homes to tourists and expats, a trend that has taken off in recent years with the help of online platforms such as HiHome, which allows visitors to sign up for experiential tours providing insights into local culture and traditions. These tours, which typically last two to three hours, include visiting Saudi homes and farms, taking cooking classes with the host, trying on ethnic clothing, exploring regional art and interacting with the local community.
HiHome was founded in 2019 by Nourah AlSadoun, a young entrepreneur from Riyadh whose main aim was to showcase the richness of Saudi culture. “During my travels around the world, I realised that my most memorable moments weren’t in hotels or landmarks – they were always in people’s homes while sharing meals, stories and traditions,” says AlSadoun. “I wanted to create a platform that would open Saudi homes to the world, allowing visitors to connect with our culture in a genuine and personal way.”
Today, HiHome is present in 24 cities and towns across Saudi Arabia, offering more than 200 authentic experiences. More than 100 local hosts have joined the platform and many more are eager to participate. According to AlSadoun, "Saudis take pride in their homes, crafts and traditions," which is why the enthusiasm is not surprising. “For them, hosting is not only an opportunity to earn an income, but also a way to celebrate and preserve their heritage.”
As Oliyan gives me a tour of her home with childlike excitement, I can’t help but agree. “I love hosting guests from all over the world and sharing our food, traditions and rituals with them,” she says. “It just gives me so much happiness.”
During the two-hour house tour, my 12-year-old son and I have interesting chats with Oliyan and her daughter, Nada. We learn how to make gahwa the Saudi way while enjoying homemade, cookie-filled dates. I try on a gold-embroidered abaya and a hama (a golden headdress with dangling coins), while my son dresses in the traditional Saudi bisht and ghutra.
Oliyan shows me her art and antique collection, which she has accumulated over decades and shares interesting stories behind them. Her home is like a museum, filled with trinkets from all across the country, including rare pieces of Najdi and Asiri art, oxidised silver lamps, Arabic coffee sets and Bedouin jewellery. Walking through her space is like leafing through the pages of a Saudi history book with plenty to learn and enjoy. “People adore my home; they love taking pictures and want to come back,” Oliyan says.
Tours of houses filled with personal collections and heritage decor are particularly popular among visitors, as are creative workshops that involve painting traditional Najdi doors and Al-Qatt Al-Asiri souvenirs. Cooking classes that include preparing classic Saudi dishes with local families and culminate in lunch or dinner are also a big hit among guests.
Our tour concludes with a delicious five-course Saudi meal, featuring lentil soup, salad, warak enab, chicken mandi, potato souffle, refreshing drinks and desserts. Oliyan even packs some vine leaves and basbousa for us to enjoy when we return home, adding: “Visitors love my food and always tell me that they cannot find this quality in any restaurant". I can confirm the veracity of the statement because the chicken mandi is excellent and the basbousa is unlike anything I have had in Riyadh in the 18 months that I've lived here.
Recalling my visit a few days later, it's not the homemade food or interesting decor that stays with me. Instead, it is Oliyan's warmth and embracing of Saudi hospitality. Sitting in her living room, listening to her stories and laughing together over a cup of gahwa feels deeply intimate. “What you experience on our tours is real – no scripts, no staged shows, just genuine Saudi families sharing their lives,” AlSadoun explains, echoing my sentiments. “This intimacy and honesty make Saudi Arabia unforgettable for our guests,” she adds.
As the Kingdom rapidly transforms with soaring skyscrapers, upscale malls and futuristic museums, immersive encounters like the one at Oliyan’s keep visitors connected to the nation’s cultural heart. Rooted in centuries of history, time-honoured recipes and a thriving arts and crafts scene, these experiences offer far more than just a glimpse of Saudi heritage. They foster genuine connections with the people themselves, allowing visitors to carry home memories that linger long after their journey ends.
