Derwandi in Radisson Blue Hotel and Resort, Abu Dhabi, has long been a go-to for authentic Lebanese fare for discerning foodies in the capital.
As the restaurant opened an outpost in Dubai this year, The National visited the quiet and cosy spot, located along Jumeirah 2, to check out its offerings.
Where to sit, what to expect
My dining companion and I head to Derwandi on a hot summer afternoon – so hot, that even a five-minute walk from the parking area to the restaurant's entrance feels twice as long.
But once we enter the space, done up in soothing hues of blues and greens against white walls accented with light wood and rose gold lighting, we instantly feel the effects of its cooling, welcoming interior.
The restaurant, which can seat 300 people at capacity, is divided into four spaces – a cosy al fresco area with wicker chairs around a water feature; a non-smoking area that faces the bakery where fresh manakish and hot bread is made; an indoor smoking space that feels outdoorsy with its ample foliage and generous sunlight; and a terrace on top, which faces Box Park and offers views of Burj Khalifa and the Dubai skyline.
With its intimate seating, umbrella shading and calming water feature, we imagine the terrace will be a popular spot in the cooler months. We are also told Derwandi will soon be serving shisha on the terrace.
The restaurant is buzzing during lunch, with several families and couples around. We choose to sit facing the juice bar on the ground floor, which is where the extensive list of drinks, coffee and juices is prepared.
The menu
Diners are absolutely spoilt for choice here, with an expansive 13-page menu offering all-day breakfast, fattet, manoushe, soups, salads, mezze, shawarmas, grills, house specials, seafood, desserts and drinks.
Slightly overwhelmed by everything on offer, we ask our friendly server Ahmed for recommendations, and he suggests we start with the hummus Derwandi (Dh40), muhammara (Dh39) and sojouk in tomato sauce (Dh48).
While we are waiting, we are served chilled and refreshing strawberry, orange and ginger shots, which are swiftly followed by a basket brimming with fluffy and fragrant hot white and brown bread fresh out of the oven, along with a dip of zaatar and olives that offers a nice hit of umami.
The smooth and creamy hummus with a touch of pesto also does not disappoint, but what truly impresses is the perfectly textured, incredibly flavourful muhammara that has just a touch of spice – among the best we’ve had. The sausages doused in the tomato, garlic and chilli sauce, meanwhile, are moreish and warm and pair perfectly with the hot breads.
For mains, I opt for the kharouf mehchi (more on that below), while my dining partner gets the over-baked sea bass (Dh120), which is marinated with a tomato and basil sauce, topped with batata hara and comes with a side of tahini sauce.
Ahmed kindly debones the soft and flaky fish after it arrives at the table. However, my dining partner notes it's rather dry if had on its own, and needs to be paired with the accompaniments.
For desserts, we are served Ahlam El Derwandi (Dh42) – the restaurant’s take on a classic cheesecake, served with pistachio cardamom paste and crumbled halawa, as well as Umm Ali (Dh46).
The Umm Ali is served hot and is silky, comforting and absolutely loaded with nuts – although one too many raisins for my liking. It is slightly on the sweeter side, but makes for a great ending to the meal.
The Ahlam El Derwandi, meanwhile, is not too sweet but is quite heavy and would be ideal to order to share after a rich meal.
Standout dish
The house special, kharouf mehchi (Dh89), is unlike anything I’ve had before. It features oriental rice that has been cooked in beef stock, topped off with a hunky shank of lamb that weighs between 220 and 240 grams and some mixed nuts. It also comes with a side of yoghurt, as well as a smooth “oriental” sauce that features a blend of spices including paprika, pepper and cinnamon, that the restaurant should seriously consider bottling – comforting, bursting with flavours and a great accompaniment to the meat. The blend of flavours and textures makes the dish unique, and definitely one to order.
A chat with the chef
Chef Bassam Al Dika, who has 30 years of experience cooking authentic Lebanese cuisine, says he aims to champion fresh produce at Derwandi – using vegetables flown in from Lebanon and putting local meat in the spotlight – which is evident in the kharouf mehchi.
Of his cooking style, he says, “I strive to honour Lebanese flavours, which Derwandi is famous for. Harmonious textures allow diners to experience Lebanese gastronomy with every bite, as well as the rich heritage and hospitality.”
He recommends we try the kale-quinoa salad and Derwandi mixed grill the next time around.
Price point and contact information
Prices range from Dh27 to Dh60 for starters, Dh59 to Dh179 for main courses, and Dh32 to Dh55 for desserts.
Derwandi is located at Jumeirah 2 and is open from 8am to 1am from Sunday to Thursday and 8am to 2am on Friday and Saturday. For reservations, call 04 884 3290.
The review was conducted at the invitation of the restaurant
