Walking into Osteria Funkcoolio in Dubai feels like stepping into a vintage Italian postcard.
The ceiling is green. The mirrors are subtly frosted. There are floral wallpapers, enormous chandeliers, greyscale portraits, marble-top bars and booths with red leather seats. And the tables are covered with a white cloth.
The name doesn't offer sufficient clarification, either, but that's just how its owner – Akmal Anuar, the experimental chef behind award-winning 3Fils and Michelin-starred 11 Woodfire – prefers it.
Opening mid-March, the restaurant is tucked amid the quaint low-rise buildings of Port De La Mer in Jumeirah 1, a new waterfront development inspired by the Mediterranean, think terracotta roof tiles, rustic stonework and pastel exteriors.
Osteria means tavern or simple restaurant in Italy – after all, this is an Italian restaurant, kind of. It is also Japanese, but not quite fully Asian.
Above all, it's characteristically Anuar, who exudes funky and cool vibes in his green cargo pants paired with his white chef's coat. He removes his black cap and says “salt and pepper”, referring to his wavy dual-toned hair. He poses for the camera, opting for a spot in front of his portrait.
Peak creativity
In many ways, Osteria Funkcoolio is a peek into Anuar's riotous imagination – one that has been shaped by his previous ventures that achieved paramount success. Unlike these restaurants though, the Port De La Mer dining spot is a solo project, allowing him to “push the envelope” even further.
“I started with a passion for cooking, but now I think I hit my ceiling,” he tells The National. “I need to do more – build my own repertoire and really find out what makes me 'me'." Funkcoolio, as he refers to it, speaks to his “ongoing discovery” of himself, not just as a chef, but as a restaurateur.
“I could cook well, but that's it." he adds. "It was about going from one place to another just negotiating salaries. I had to ask myself what else I can bring to the table."
Anuar has been enjoying not being tied to partners so far, saying: “Before it was just me curating menus, doing a little bit of design while somebody else looks over – now I have to decide on even the smallest thing, like what glasses to use.”
Asked whether he's finally found his own brand, he says: “It's still in progress. I still can't define the right 'Akmal' way. I'm just going where creativity takes me, and the sky's the limit.”
It's also this aversion to stagnancy, Anuar implies, that led to the birth of Osteria Funkcoolio, describing the restaurant as his boldest play on creativity so far. From the name to the dishes, as well as the “conscious decision” to choose a small venue with only 34 covers, the Singaporean chef-restaurateur wants something borderline anomalous.
“Many people will expect me to open a bigger venue, especially after 11 Woodfire, but this is way smaller than many of my other restaurants,” he says. “I need to pull back a little bit, and focus on very good quality when it comes to the food and service.”
Itameshi cuisine
The choice of exploring the Itameshi – or Japanese-Italian – culinary concept also falls into Anuar's experimental pursuit. Although the fusion is not new, he says the UAE hasn't acclimatised to it yet.
“I've trained in a few Italian restaurants, with Italian chefs who add Japanese touches," he says. "I think there's nothing like this in the region so far. The flavours are very light, and you will not expect certain things to be on your plate.”
On the menu, this means pasta dishes may have a dashi or five spice. There is a risotto made of Koshihikari rice, the short grains are more commonly found in sushi, as well as a sea bass pasta dish with spring onions and sudachi, a lime-like fruit from Shikoku Island.
“I've travelled extensively in Japan and Italy, and these are two of the best places when it comes to premium ingredients,” says Anuar, who still expects detractors in his quest to play with two popular cuisines.
But he adds: “I don't care what people think. This is what I want to do. I have the fundamentals of Italian cooking. If it's good pasta from northern Italy, I will not touch it. What I do here is out of that context. It's our own recipes and combinations of flavours.
“Nobody can come and say 'this is not Italian' because it's never been just Italian. Simply put, it's an Italian restaurant with Asian food.”
Looking up, but grounded
Although Anuar has been known for his at 3Fils (currently sixth on Mena's 50 Best list) and Michelin-starred 11 Woodfire, he says for him ambition doesn't start with an accolade in mind.
“We will open the restaurant, and we will do our best," he says. "If it comes, it comes. We'll take it as a bonus. What's important is that we build a good culture, and find our own way."
Even before the Michelin win in 2022, he was already acquainted with the demands of big-ticket restaurants.
“I know the pressure. I have an idea of what works and what doesn't," he adds. "My focus is on our people. Everyone needs to be happy. Everyone needs to love their job, because that will elevate many things, and guests will feel that energy."
Undue pressure, Anuar explains, could even be detrimental to restaurants. “Sometimes you walk into a three-Michelin-starred venue and it feels stiff. We don't want that here,” he says.
Asked whether he's concerned about the increasing competition within Dubai's gastronomic scene, the chef replies: “I am not going to worry about that. I'll do my own thing.”
Exact opening date not yet announced, more information at funkcoolio on Instagram
England's lowest Test innings
- 45 v Australia in Sydney, January 28, 1887
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- 58 v New Zealand in Auckland, March 22, 2018
Racecard
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Real estate tokenisation project
Dubai launched the pilot phase of its real estate tokenisation project last month.
The initiative focuses on converting real estate assets into digital tokens recorded on blockchain technology and helps in streamlining the process of buying, selling and investing, the Dubai Land Department said.
Dubai’s real estate tokenisation market is projected to reach Dh60 billion ($16.33 billion) by 2033, representing 7 per cent of the emirate’s total property transactions, according to the DLD.
The Travel Diaries of Albert Einstein The Far East, Palestine, and Spain, 1922 – 1923
Editor Ze’ev Rosenkranz
Princeton
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Engine: 51.5kW electric motor
Range: 400km
Power: 134bhp
Torque: 175Nm
Price: From Dh98,800
Available: Now
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
Pathaan
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Billie Holliday: for the burn and also the way she told stories.
Thelonius Monk: for his earnestness.
Duke Ellington: for his edge and spirituality.
Louis Armstrong: his legacy is undeniable. He is considered as one of the most revolutionary and influential musicians.
Terence Blanchard: very political - a lot of jazz musicians are making protest music right now.
Australia World Cup squad
Aaron Finch (capt), Usman Khawaja, David Warner, Steve Smith, Shaun Marsh, Glenn Maxwell, Marcus Stoinis, Alex Carey, Pat Cummins, Mitchell Starc, Jhye Richardson, Nathan Coulter-Nile, Jason Behrendorff, Nathan Lyon, Adam Zampa
CHATGPT%20ENTERPRISE%20FEATURES
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Louis Tomlinson
3 out of 5 stars
(Syco Music/Arista Records)
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COMPANY PROFILE
Company name: Letstango.com
Started: June 2013
Founder: Alex Tchablakian
Based: Dubai
Industry: e-commerce
Initial investment: Dh10 million
Investors: Self-funded
Total customers: 300,000 unique customers every month
The specs: 2018 BMW X2 and X3
Price, as tested: Dh255,150 (X2); Dh383,250 (X3)
Engine: 2.0-litre turbocharged inline four-cylinder (X2); 3.0-litre twin-turbo inline six-cylinder (X3)
Power 192hp @ 5,000rpm (X2); 355hp @ 5,500rpm (X3)
Torque: 280Nm @ 1,350rpm (X2); 500Nm @ 1,520rpm (X3)
Transmission: Seven-speed automatic (X2); Eight-speed automatic (X3)
Fuel consumption, combined: 5.7L / 100km (X2); 8.3L / 100km (X3)
Where to donate in the UAE
The Emirates Charity Portal
You can donate to several registered charities through a “donation catalogue”. The use of the donation is quite specific, such as buying a fan for a poor family in Niger for Dh130.
The General Authority of Islamic Affairs & Endowments
The site has an e-donation service accepting debit card, credit card or e-Dirham, an electronic payment tool developed by the Ministry of Finance and First Abu Dhabi Bank.
Al Noor Special Needs Centre
You can donate online or order Smiles n’ Stuff products handcrafted by Al Noor students. The centre publishes a wish list of extras needed, starting at Dh500.
Beit Al Khair Society
Beit Al Khair Society has the motto “From – and to – the UAE,” with donations going towards the neediest in the country. Its website has a list of physical donation sites, but people can also contribute money by SMS, bank transfer and through the hotline 800-22554.
Dar Al Ber Society
Dar Al Ber Society, which has charity projects in 39 countries, accept cash payments, money transfers or SMS donations. Its donation hotline is 800-79.
Dubai Cares
Dubai Cares provides several options for individuals and companies to donate, including online, through banks, at retail outlets, via phone and by purchasing Dubai Cares branded merchandise. It is currently running a campaign called Bookings 2030, which allows people to help change the future of six underprivileged children and young people.
Emirates Airline Foundation
Those who travel on Emirates have undoubtedly seen the little donation envelopes in the seat pockets. But the foundation also accepts donations online and in the form of Skywards Miles. Donated miles are used to sponsor travel for doctors, surgeons, engineers and other professionals volunteering on humanitarian missions around the world.
Emirates Red Crescent
On the Emirates Red Crescent website you can choose between 35 different purposes for your donation, such as providing food for fasters, supporting debtors and contributing to a refugee women fund. It also has a list of bank accounts for each donation type.
Gulf for Good
Gulf for Good raises funds for partner charity projects through challenges, like climbing Kilimanjaro and cycling through Thailand. This year’s projects are in partnership with Street Child Nepal, Larchfield Kids, the Foundation for African Empowerment and SOS Children's Villages. Since 2001, the organisation has raised more than $3.5 million (Dh12.8m) in support of over 50 children’s charities.
Noor Dubai Foundation
Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum launched the Noor Dubai Foundation a decade ago with the aim of eliminating all forms of preventable blindness globally. You can donate Dh50 to support mobile eye camps by texting the word “Noor” to 4565 (Etisalat) or 4849 (du).
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- Nord Anglia International School (Dubai) – Dh85,032
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- Brighton College Abu Dhabi - Dh68,560
- Jumeirah English Speaking School (Dubai) – Dh59,728
- Gems Wellington International School – Dubai Branch – Dh58,488
- The British School Al Khubairat (Abu Dhabi) - Dh54,170
- Dubai English Speaking School – Dh51,269
*Annual tuition fees covering the 2024/2025 academic year
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Price: base / as tested: Dh382,000
Engine: 5.6-litre V8
Gearbox: Seven-speed automatic
Power: 428hp @ 5,800rpm
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Fuel economy, combined: 12.7L / 100km
AI traffic lights to ease congestion at seven points to Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Street
The seven points are:
Shakhbout bin Sultan Street
Dhafeer Street
Hadbat Al Ghubainah Street (outbound)
Salama bint Butti Street
Al Dhafra Street
Rabdan Street
Umm Yifina Street exit (inbound)