It has been three years since the ban on women driving in Saudi was lifted, and while many have taken to the road in their cars, some are choosing the greater adrenalin rush of motorbikes.
When the news came that the ban would be lifted, Fatimah, a dentist from Riyadh, immediately started asking if riding motorbikes would also be allowed.
"When I saw that it also applied to motorbikes, I was so excited and decided to work on learning to ride a motorbike before even learning to drive a car," she told The National.
Read more: Driving ambition: Saudi women reflect on three years at the wheel
She bought her first bike, a Harley-Davidson Sportster 48, before learning how to ride it.
"I didn't even know where to switch it on. So I bought it and directly took it to the learning school, even though they have their own bikes."
Fatimah said that her passion comes from the household she grew up in.
"I come from a bikers' family. My brothers are bikers. I used to go out with them as a passenger, but for me to be a rider was just a dream that I didn't know [would] happen one day," she said.
Zahra Abuali, from Dammam, on Saudi Arabia's Arabian Gulf coas, is also a motorcycle lover. She first rode in the kingdom in 2019 but her favourite ride was earlier this year.
With a group of bikers, she took to the road to cover more than 2,000 kilometres in 10 days. They started their trip in Hail and ended in Al Ula.
Her favourite stop was Wadi Al Disah in Tabuk, she said.
"When you are on a bike, you really can see how high the mountains are on both sides, and I think that is why riding in Wadi Al Disah was so special.”
The same day the ban was lifted, Zahra created an Instagram account called "Saudi Women Riders”, to build a community of Saudi women bikers, whether there or abroad, because she was living and riding bikes in the UAE at the time.
"Everyone was excited about the cars. I was excited about the bikes," she said.
On her account, Zahra shares her rides around Saudi Arabia and answers questions from any women interested in the sport.
Fatimah in Riyadh also provides support for any female riders via her own Instagram account. In addition, she became known in the community as the adopted mother for new female riders.
"Any girl who has a question about bikes, everyone tells her to go to Fatimah, and I welcome everyone."
Fatimah says she has a message behind doing this.
"I want to save the girls from the difficulties I went through at the start."
She helps with advice on which school to learn at, what steps to take, the best gear options and, most importantly, the safety protocols they need to follow.
Fatimah also wants to make women feel they have a community of bikers like them because this is one of the challenges she faced at the start.
She says that bikers' groups were "kind of masculine". Some bikers rejected her.
"I think they believed we were kind of invading their world," she said.
Fatimah is now vice president of a bikers' group called Hawks MC Riyadh. They have 55 members in the city, only five of whom are female.
Fatimah's friend, Nour Mohamed, is also a rider and agrees that their start was difficult.
But times are changing, she said.
"When people see female motorcyclists, they are not that surprised any more."
Despite facing some rejections at the start, she had her dad as her biggest supporter because he is a rider himself.
"He gave me my first helmet. I was happy to finally be a rider after 10 years of being a passenger behind him," Nour said.
Nour took it a step further in her group, the Harley Owners Group (HOG) Riyadh chapter. She is now a route captain, meaning she is responsible for leading a group of sometimes up to 20 bikers on the road. Her chapter is the biggest in the Middle East, with about 3,000 members. But only a few are female.
While Fatimah, Nour and Zahra mostly enjoy the speed and sightseeing, one woman took a different path on her motorbike.
In 2019, Dania Aqeel became the first Saudi woman to take part in motorcycle circuit racing.
She competed in the UAE National Sportsbike Superseries (2019/2020) and won Rookie of the Year in the BMR600 Championship in Bahrain (2019/2020).
Dania then shifted her interest to something else that reminded her of her childhood.
"We grew up playing in the deserts and riding dirt bikes and I just loved it," she said.
In March 2021, she was the first Saudi woman to compete in an FIA Cross Country Bajas World Cup event.
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Key figures in the life of the fort
Sheikh Dhiyab bin Isa (ruled 1761-1793) Built Qasr Al Hosn as a watchtower to guard over the only freshwater well on Abu Dhabi island.
Sheikh Shakhbut bin Dhiyab (ruled 1793-1816) Expanded the tower into a small fort and transferred his ruling place of residence from Liwa Oasis to the fort on the island.
Sheikh Tahnoon bin Shakhbut (ruled 1818-1833) Expanded Qasr Al Hosn further as Abu Dhabi grew from a small village of palm huts to a town of more than 5,000 inhabitants.
Sheikh Khalifa bin Shakhbut (ruled 1833-1845) Repaired and fortified the fort.
Sheikh Saeed bin Tahnoon (ruled 1845-1855) Turned Qasr Al Hosn into a strong two-storied structure.
Sheikh Zayed bin Khalifa (ruled 1855-1909) Expanded Qasr Al Hosn further to reflect the emirate's increasing prominence.
Sheikh Shakhbut bin Sultan (ruled 1928-1966) Renovated and enlarged Qasr Al Hosn, adding a decorative arch and two new villas.
Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan (ruled 1966-2004) Moved the royal residence to Al Manhal palace and kept his diwan at Qasr Al Hosn.
Sources: Jayanti Maitra, www.adach.ae
Sole survivors
- Cecelia Crocker was on board Northwest Airlines Flight 255 in 1987 when it crashed in Detroit, killing 154 people, including her parents and brother. The plane had hit a light pole on take off
- George Lamson Jr, from Minnesota, was on a Galaxy Airlines flight that crashed in Reno in 1985, killing 68 people. His entire seat was launched out of the plane
- Bahia Bakari, then 12, survived when a Yemenia Airways flight crashed near the Comoros in 2009, killing 152. She was found clinging to wreckage after floating in the ocean for 13 hours.
- Jim Polehinke was the co-pilot and sole survivor of a 2006 Comair flight that crashed in Lexington, Kentucky, killing 49.
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Company%20Profile
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Investors include: Dubai’s Beco Capital, US’s Endeavor Catalyst, China’s MSA, Egypt’s Sawari Ventures, Sweden’s Vostok New Ventures, Property Finder CEO Michael Lahyani
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If you go
The flights
Etihad (etihad.com) flies from Abu Dhabi to Luang Prabang via Bangkok, with a return flight from Chiang Rai via Bangkok for about Dh3,000, including taxes. Emirates and Thai Airways cover the same route, also via Bangkok in both directions, from about Dh2,700.
The cruise
The Gypsy by Mekong Kingdoms has two cruising options: a three-night, four-day trip upstream cruise or a two-night, three-day downstream journey, from US$5,940 (Dh21,814), including meals, selected drinks, excursions and transfers.
The hotels
Accommodation is available in Luang Prabang at the Avani, from $290 (Dh1,065) per night, and at Anantara Golden Triangle Elephant Camp and Resort from $1,080 (Dh3,967) per night, including meals, an activity and transfers.