On the waterfront

Vancouver is well known for its beauty. There are trees on every street and the mountains soar above the skyline, always capped with a little snow. But the heart of Vancouver is the sea, and it is inescapable. The sea wall snakes around the city, offering pedestrians and bicyclists a welcome break from cars and a brief reprieve from city life. It was originally built to prevent the erosion of Stanley Park and this green oasis remains the most picturesque part of the journey. The noise of downtown is muffled by the 1,000 acres of trees in the park and the view is spectacular. If you look at the rocky beach beside the path, you'll be able to see the occasional crab or starfish, alongside odd piles of rocks which seem to defy gravity. Almost works of art, the stones are placed on top of one another, making piles which are sometimes a couple of feet high. Traditionally, they were used to mark paths by the aboriginals in Canada. In fact, they are such a deeply rooted part of Canadian culture that they were chosen to be the official logo for the 2010 Winter Olympics.

For those in favour of more natural beauty, the motorway journey up to Whistler, the Olympic site, is not to be missed. The road twists through the mountains, offering glimpses of the different inlets and the islands that dot our coast, but that journey leads to another city entirely. Back in Vancouver, the University of British Columbia has a reputation for having a beautiful campus, personally, however, I disagree. Situated at the westernmost edge of the city, it looks, to me, like an architectural war zone. Pseudo-gothic buildings fight it out with modern glass structures as old wooden buildings hunker down with concrete bunkers.

The mishmash of design aside, the location is ideal. Perched on the tip of the city, the best view can be found in the Rose Garden. In the summer the paths are scented with flowers from around the world. Also on site is the Museum of Anthropology, with excellent aboriginal artefacts. Vancouver has always been popular with Canadians seeking a better life than could be found on the East coast, and in the 1960s it was known as Lotus Land. At the time, Kitsilano was a haven for hippies, but it has become gentrified in the last 40 years, populated with organic grocery stores and fair trade coffee shops.

For a modern taste of the Bohemian lifestyle, take a trip to Commercial Drive. Walking around, you can pop into the local stores selling everything from locally designed clothes to baked goods to paintings. It is a very colourful neighbourhood as graffiti and murals brighten the sides of stores. Head off the main drag to the residential area and the houses are just as artistic, providing a backdrop for the beautiful front gardens.

The vibe changes significantly further up the drive with the old Italian neighbourhood. There you can find old-fashioned, hole-in-the-wall coffee shops. They are populated by old men who sit there all day, arguing politics in Italian and watching European football on television. Most of the delis and bakeries in this area are family run businesses which have been around for decades. Since it was founded, Vancouver has always juggled different cultures. We have the largest Chinatown in Canada, founded when the Trans Canada railway was being built and cheap labour was needed. With some of the most authentic Chinese food in North America, it is not uncommon to see restaurants with delicacies hanging in the window. Incense will waft from stores selling small trinkets, and spice shops will bombard your senses.

For a completely different sensory experience, make the trip to Granville Island. The market offers a cornucopia of local fruits and vegetables, freshly caught fish and bread still warm from the ovens. Surrounding the market are theatres, playing a mix of local productions and classical favourites. This area is a hub for artists and as you walk around you can see them blowing glass or working clay. The island is nestled in the city, but surrounded by water. As you can take a stroll around the perimeter, you can see the relics of the island's industrial past. There are many things for tourists here, including kayak rides.For most people, paddling through a town is a novel experience, and a wonderful way to see all the sights. As you glide through the water, the city slides slowly past.
@email:amcmeans@thenational.ae