Twenty-two years ago, I edited a quarterly magazine for the Lebanese tourism ministry. Visitor, which lasted for six issues wasn’t half bad. We covered everything, with features on all the major cities – I am still very proud of the one we did on the woefully underappreciated Tripoli – and all the major archaeological sites. We also covered local cuisine, rural traditions, winter and summer sports and ran interviews with singers, actors, writers and poets. We tried to give advice on how not to get ripped off buying carpets and even spent a day at the Beirut Hippodrome, should any visiting racing fans fancy dropping by.
Visitor was distributed to all the major hotels and tourist offices but we knew it would only be appreciated by a niche readership. Quite simply, the profile of tourism back then wasn’t that interested in the hammams, khans and caravanserais of Tripoli; the faded delights of Baalbek’s Hotel Palmyra or the poetry of Salah Stetieh. The country’s tourism model was based on a simple formula that offered the Arab visitor a cool respite from the heat of the Gulf. They could unwind, eat, sip tea and smoke shisha, and they felt comfortable among the Lebanese who spoke their language and would bend over backwards to meet their every need. This model became more high powered after 9/11 and the reopening of the Beirut Central District, two events that would for the next decade attract an even more affluent Arab tourist.
So the sun shone and the sector made hay, but this harvest was largely collected in Beirut where tourists came to shop, relax, drink and dine. The outbreak of the Syrian civil war in 2011 changed all that and we haven’t seen any Arab visitors in significant numbers since; there is simply too much Iranian influence in the country and as a result, I would wager that the golden days when Lebanon was the default setting for fun in the sun for the Arabs has gone.
But all this, like a tanker turning in harbour, is slowly changing and the country is selling itself to a new generation of mainly western tourist on a more complex, “warts-and-all” formula, driven by a cuisine-based, love-of-life vibe.
I'm going to stick my neck out and posit that the global food traveller Anthony Bourdain started it back in 2015 with a visit to Lebanon as one of his Parts Unknown series on CNN. At the time, and on these pages, I eviscerated Mr Bourdon's one dimensional and often melodramatic view of the country – his dinner with a Hizbollah member was truly toe curling – but what I will now concede was that he understood Lebanon and was able to convey the complexity and diversity that tends to get under the skin of anyone who visits.
This "Come to Lebanon and taste life" philosophy has found willing converts. Lebanon is regularly listed as one of the world's top gastro destinations, while last year none other than Vogue ran a feature entitled "4 Perfect Days in Beirut". It spoke of "stunning juxtapositions: green hills, a sea-cradled peninsula, labyrinthine streets, neglected architecture – from Arabesque to Venetian Gothic … old mosques, churches and palaces." Travel catnip for anyone with an ounce of curiosity.
And now, heading off on a different, but equally compelling, tangent is GQ, which has just published a mini feature entitled "How to party like it's your last night on earth". It opened by informing American readers that "Beirut is the chosen destination for young rich cool kids across the globe – here's how to pretend you're one of them for 12 hours". Apparently the author only felt unsafe when his Uber driver got lost.
So there is a new category of tourist who wants a few “perfect days” in Lebanon to savour the food, the history and the energy. The private sector is, as usual, leading the way. There are more affordable hotels, restaurants and bars and the focus is now on the authentic, life-affirming experience of the sights, sounds and smells of Lebanon rather than the high-end, but somewhat sterile, offerings of the past.
I sense the Ministry of Tourism is also beginning to catch on to this, so if anyone there is reading this, it might be worth digging out those old Visitor features. It’s all still relevant. We just need to add something about Wi-Fi connectivity and, of course, Uber.
Michael Karam is a freelance writer who lives between Beirut and Brighton
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Cryopreservation: A timeline
- Keyhole surgery under general anaesthetic
- Ovarian tissue surgically removed
- Tissue processed in a high-tech facility
- Tissue re-implanted at a time of the patient’s choosing
- Full hormone production regained within 4-6 months
How the UAE gratuity payment is calculated now
Employees leaving an organisation are entitled to an end-of-service gratuity after completing at least one year of service.
The tenure is calculated on the number of days worked and does not include lengthy leave periods, such as a sabbatical. If you have worked for a company between one and five years, you are paid 21 days of pay based on your final basic salary. After five years, however, you are entitled to 30 days of pay. The total lump sum you receive is based on the duration of your employment.
1. For those who have worked between one and five years, on a basic salary of Dh10,000 (calculation based on 30 days):
a. Dh10,000 ÷ 30 = Dh333.33. Your daily wage is Dh333.33
b. Dh333.33 x 21 = Dh7,000. So 21 days salary equates to Dh7,000 in gratuity entitlement for each year of service. Multiply this figure for every year of service up to five years.
2. For those who have worked more than five years
c. 333.33 x 30 = Dh10,000. So 30 days’ salary is Dh10,000 in gratuity entitlement for each year of service.
Note: The maximum figure cannot exceed two years total salary figure.
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
UPI facts
More than 2.2 million Indian tourists arrived in UAE in 2023
More than 3.5 million Indians reside in UAE
Indian tourists can make purchases in UAE using rupee accounts in India through QR-code-based UPI real-time payment systems
Indian residents in UAE can use their non-resident NRO and NRE accounts held in Indian banks linked to a UAE mobile number for UPI transactions
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Key facilities
- Olympic-size swimming pool with a split bulkhead for multi-use configurations, including water polo and 50m/25m training lanes
- Premier League-standard football pitch
- 400m Olympic running track
- NBA-spec basketball court with auditorium
- 600-seat auditorium
- Spaces for historical and cultural exploration
- An elevated football field that doubles as a helipad
- Specialist robotics and science laboratories
- AR and VR-enabled learning centres
- Disruption Lab and Research Centre for developing entrepreneurial skills
Jawan
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Quick pearls of wisdom
Focus on gratitude: And do so deeply, he says. “Think of one to three things a day that you’re grateful for. It needs to be specific, too, don’t just say ‘air.’ Really think about it. If you’re grateful for, say, what your parents have done for you, that will motivate you to do more for the world.”
Know how to fight: Shetty married his wife, Radhi, three years ago (he met her in a meditation class before he went off and became a monk). He says they’ve had to learn to respect each other’s “fighting styles” – he’s a talk it-out-immediately person, while she needs space to think. “When you’re having an argument, remember, it’s not you against each other. It’s both of you against the problem. When you win, they lose. If you’re on a team you have to win together.”
The rules on fostering in the UAE
A foster couple or family must:
- be Muslim, Emirati and be residing in the UAE
- not be younger than 25 years old
- not have been convicted of offences or crimes involving moral turpitude
- be free of infectious diseases or psychological and mental disorders
- have the ability to support its members and the foster child financially
- undertake to treat and raise the child in a proper manner and take care of his or her health and well-being
- A single, divorced or widowed Muslim Emirati female, residing in the UAE may apply to foster a child if she is at least 30 years old and able to support the child financially
What is the FNC?
The Federal National Council is one of five federal authorities established by the UAE constitution. It held its first session on December 2, 1972, a year to the day after Federation.
It has 40 members, eight of whom are women. The members represent the UAE population through each of the emirates. Abu Dhabi and Dubai have eight members each, Sharjah and Ras al Khaimah six, and Ajman, Fujairah and Umm Al Quwain have four.
They bring Emirati issues to the council for debate and put those concerns to ministers summoned for questioning.
The FNC’s main functions include passing, amending or rejecting federal draft laws, discussing international treaties and agreements, and offering recommendations on general subjects raised during sessions.
Federal draft laws must first pass through the FNC for recommendations when members can amend the laws to suit the needs of citizens. The draft laws are then forwarded to the Cabinet for consideration and approval.
Since 2006, half of the members have been elected by UAE citizens to serve four-year terms and the other half are appointed by the Ruler’s Courts of the seven emirates.
In the 2015 elections, 78 of the 252 candidates were women. Women also represented 48 per cent of all voters and 67 per cent of the voters were under the age of 40.
MATCH INFO
English Premiership semi-finals
Saracens 57
Wasps 33
Exeter Chiefs 36
Newcastle Falcons 5
Ms Yang's top tips for parents new to the UAE
- Join parent networks
- Look beyond school fees
- Keep an open mind
NO OTHER LAND
Director: Basel Adra, Yuval Abraham, Rachel Szor, Hamdan Ballal
Stars: Basel Adra, Yuval Abraham
Rating: 3.5/5
Formula Middle East Calendar (Formula Regional and Formula 4)
Round 1: January 17-19, Yas Marina Circuit – Abu Dhabi
Round 2: January 22-23, Yas Marina Circuit – Abu Dhabi
Round 3: February 7-9, Dubai Autodrome – Dubai
Round 4: February 14-16, Yas Marina Circuit – Abu Dhabi
Round 5: February 25-27, Jeddah Corniche Circuit – Saudi Arabia
SPECS
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At a glance
Global events: Much of the UK’s economic woes were blamed on “increased global uncertainty”, which can be interpreted as the economic impact of the Ukraine war and the uncertainty over Donald Trump’s tariffs.
Growth forecasts: Cut for 2025 from 2 per cent to 1 per cent. The OBR watchdog also estimated inflation will average 3.2 per cent this year
Welfare: Universal credit health element cut by 50 per cent and frozen for new claimants, building on cuts to the disability and incapacity bill set out earlier this month
Spending cuts: Overall day-to day-spending across government cut by £6.1bn in 2029-30
Tax evasion: Steps to crack down on tax evasion to raise “£6.5bn per year” for the public purse
Defence: New high-tech weaponry, upgrading HM Naval Base in Portsmouth
Housing: Housebuilding to reach its highest in 40 years, with planning reforms helping generate an extra £3.4bn for public finances
The%20specs
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'O'
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Brief scoreline:
Manchester United 0
Manchester City 2
Bernardo Silva 54', Sane 66'
Super Saturday results
4pm: Mahab Al Shimaal Group 3 | US$350,000 | (Dirt) | 1,200m
Winner: Drafted, Pat Dobbs (jockey), Doug Watson (trainer).
4.35pm: Al Bastakiya Listed | $300,000 | (D) | 1,900m
Winner: Divine Image, Brett Doyle, Charlie Appleby.
5.10pm: Nad Al Sheba Turf Group 3 | $350,000 | (Turf) | 1,200m
Winner: Blue Point, William Buick, Charlie Appleby.
5.45pm: Burj Nahaar Group 3 | $350,000 | (D) | 1,600m
Winner: Muntazah, Jim Crowley, Doug Watson.
6.20pm: Dubai City of Gold Group 2 | $300,000 | (T) | 2,410m
Winner: Old Persian, William Buick, Charlie Appleby.
6.55pm: Al Maktoum Challenge Round 3 Group 1 | $600,000 | (D) | 2,000m
Winner: Capezzano, Mickael Barzalona, Salem bin Ghadayer.
7.30pm: Jebel Hatta Group 1 | $400,000 | (T) | 1,800m
Winner: Dream Castle, Christophe Soumillon, Saeed bin Suroor.
WHAT IS A BLACK HOLE?
1. Black holes are objects whose gravity is so strong not even light can escape their pull
2. They can be created when massive stars collapse under their own weight
3. Large black holes can also be formed when smaller ones collide and merge
4. The biggest black holes lurk at the centre of many galaxies, including our own
5. Astronomers believe that when the universe was very young, black holes affected how galaxies formed
