Jewellery industry shines despite financial crisis



DUBAI // As the global financial downturn paralyses economies around the world, Middle Eastern jewellery retailers say the industry is due for a massive expansion as investors seek alternative assets and global retailers look to capitalise on regional consumer confidence. Already a hedge against inflation, demand for diamonds, gold and other jewellery is growing in the Middle East, China and India as buyers seek more stable alternatives to the financial markets.

"There has never been a better time to buy," said Varda Shine, the managing director of the Diamond Trading Company (DTC). "In times of uncertainty, consumers will buy more carefully." The Middle East is the third-largest consumer of diamond jewellery in the world. Retail diamond jewellery sales in the GCC alone bring in an estimated Dh7.34 billion (US$1.99bn) a year and are expected to see a significant increase this year despite the global sales slump, according to the Dubai Chamber of Commerce and Industry (DCCI).

"This country works with its own dynamics," said Amit Dhamani, the managing director of Dhamani Jewels. "We have a combination of customers from various nationalities here, which is driving business." As some of the world's developed countries struggle to stay afloat in the economic turmoil, jewellery retailers from around the world are embracing the region's comparatively confident consumers. As a result, Dubai is working to establish itself as a global hub for the diamond trade.

In April, a landmark initiative between the Dubai Multi Commodities Center (DMCC) and Damas Jewellery was unveiled, making Dubai the first government in the world to certify gemstone authenticity using a rare technology for grading and certifying diamonds in a way the human eye can never match. It is hoped that diamond certification will serve as a sales catalyst in this turbulent period for gold and jewellery prices. "We don't read enough internationally about what is going on here," said Peter Meeus, the chief executive of the International Diamond Laboratories (IDL), the subsidiary of the DMCC responsible for diamond certification.

"We sometimes forget that growth is produced by people, by companies who have put together real, phenomenal success stories over the past two years." According to Mr Meeus, the region is witnessing an explosion in retail space, with 6 million square metres available in the GCC and more than 4 million sq metres in development. The total is projected to top 16 million sq metres by 2015. Delegates gathered today in Dubai at the first Middle East-China Diamond and Jewellery Summit cited the massive buying power of the region's younger generation as a key to their success.

"Currently, in the Middle East, North Africa and South Asia region, there are 600 million people under the age of 20 - that is more than the entire European population," said Mr Meeus. "The industry has for so many years neglected the young generation and neglected the atmosphere to invite them and bring them back to our industry," added Tawhid Abdullah, the chief executive of Damas, the region's largest jewellery retailer.

"There is, therefore, a need to create fashionable, trendy, young jewellery." vsalama@thenational.ae

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Mercer, the investment consulting arm of US services company Marsh & McLennan, expects its wealth division to at least double its assets under management (AUM) in the Middle East as wealth in the region continues to grow despite economic headwinds, a company official said.

Mercer Wealth, which globally has $160 billion in AUM, plans to boost its AUM in the region to $2-$3bn in the next 2-3 years from the present $1bn, said Yasir AbuShaban, a Dubai-based principal with Mercer Wealth.

Within the next two to three years, we are looking at reaching $2 to $3 billion as a conservative estimate and we do see an opportunity to do so,” said Mr AbuShaban.

Mercer does not directly make investments, but allocates clients’ money they have discretion to, to professional asset managers. They also provide advice to clients.

“We have buying power. We can negotiate on their (client’s) behalf with asset managers to provide them lower fees than they otherwise would have to get on their own,” he added.

Mercer Wealth’s clients include sovereign wealth funds, family offices, and insurance companies among others.

From its office in Dubai, Mercer also looks after Africa, India and Turkey, where they also see opportunity for growth.

Wealth creation in Middle East and Africa (MEA) grew 8.5 per cent to $8.1 trillion last year from $7.5tn in 2015, higher than last year’s global average of 6 per cent and the second-highest growth in a region after Asia-Pacific which grew 9.9 per cent, according to consultancy Boston Consulting Group (BCG). In the region, where wealth grew just 1.9 per cent in 2015 compared with 2014, a pickup in oil prices has helped in wealth generation.

BCG is forecasting MEA wealth will rise to $12tn by 2021, growing at an annual average of 8 per cent.

Drivers of wealth generation in the region will be split evenly between new wealth creation and growth of performance of existing assets, according to BCG.

Another general trend in the region is clients’ looking for a comprehensive approach to investing, according to Mr AbuShaban.

“Institutional investors or some of the families are seeing a slowdown in the available capital they have to invest and in that sense they are looking at optimizing the way they manage their portfolios and making sure they are not investing haphazardly and different parts of their investment are working together,” said Mr AbuShaban.

Some clients also have a higher appetite for risk, given the low interest-rate environment that does not provide enough yield for some institutional investors. These clients are keen to invest in illiquid assets, such as private equity and infrastructure.

“What we have seen is a desire for higher returns in what has been a low-return environment specifically in various fixed income or bonds,” he said.

“In this environment, we have seen a de facto increase in the risk that clients are taking in things like illiquid investments, private equity investments, infrastructure and private debt, those kind of investments were higher illiquidity results in incrementally higher returns.”

The Abu Dhabi Investment Authority, one of the largest sovereign wealth funds, said in its 2016 report that has gradually increased its exposure in direct private equity and private credit transactions, mainly in Asian markets and especially in China and India. The authority’s private equity department focused on structured equities owing to “their defensive characteristics.”