The men's spring-summer 2012 spectacular in Milan this week may be the first fashion season where clothing and accessories are the last things on people's minds.
As PPR hunts assets, Prada and Salvatore Ferragamo court investors for initial public offerings (IPO) and a French investment firm snaps up Moncler, the chatter in Milan is of who will be next to list or being bought out.
Corneliani, a luxury suit-maker, kicked off the four-day Milan Fashion Week in the Italian city at the weekend.
Potential acquisition targets include Burberry, Mulberry and Tiffany, says John Guy, an analyst at Royal Bank of Scotland (RBS) in London.
LVMH's €4.3 billion (Dh22.6bn) purchase of the jeweller Bulgari, based in Rome, may spark a wave of consolidation as some companies seek to narrow the gap with their larger peers.
"Expect more mergers and acquisitions and IPOs," says Armando Branchini, the vice chairman of InterCorporate, a consulting company in Milan specialising in luxury goods. "When the favourable winds blow, all the sailors hoist their sails."
A lack of scale or expertise limits smaller companies' ability to build brand recognition and tap demand in Asia and may lead some to seek alternative paths to growth.
"China is a kind of winner-takes-all market where the bigger the brand, the better known you are, the more infrastructure you have on the ground and the more people want you," says Pierre Mallevays, the managing partner of Savigny Partners, an advisory company specialising in luxury goods in Milan.
"There's a virtuous circle of success that the big brands have there and it has only increased the value creation gap [with smaller brands]."
Spending on high-end brand names may rise 8 per cent this year to €185bn, excluding currency swings, according to the consultant Bain & Co.
Luxury sales in mainland China, which does not include Hong Kong, Macau or Taiwan, may surge 25 per cent to €11.5bn on the same basis, keeping it the fastest-growing market.
Last week, Unicredit said in a report the big brands, including LVMH, based in Paris, offered the most attractive valuations amid expected positive earnings momentum.
Plans to sell shares may be put on hold until stock markets rebound.
Moncler, a maker of US$1,000 (Dh3,670) ski jackets, scrapped an IPO in Milan because of market weakness and opted to sell a stake to Eurazeo, a French investment company.
When the moment is right, "Burberry is the obvious candidate" for a takeover and would fit nicely in the portfolio of Richemont, a Swiss luxury goods holding company, which includes Dunhill and Chloe, Mr Guy says.
Burberry, which gets about 30 per cent of sales in the Asia-Pacific region, appeals to consumers there because of its craftsmanship and "Made in England" heritage, even though it has fewer stores than peers in the region.
"That makes Burberry very attractive to a much larger player," says Mr Guy. "Mulberry also has enormous potential."
PPR, which is selling retail businesses to focus on luxury, sports and lifestyle, is targeting mid-sized companies with high-growth potential.
"The interest in luxury companies by established investors and new ones from Asia is forcing up valuations, which is potentially a sign of strong activity to come," says Mr Mallevays. LVMH paid a 60 per cent premium to snag Bulgari, the world's third-largest jeweller. Including debt, that was a multiple of 28.2 times earnings before interest, taxes, depreciation and amortisation, more than LVMH had paid for any other company.
PPR, which owns Gucci and Balenciaga, may have to also pay up or risk losing out in its bid to add to its watch and jewellery portfolio.
"Interesting luxury targets are usually family controlled," says Francois-Henri Pinault, the chief executive of PPR.
Many owners of companies he may be interested in, including the watchmaker Patek Philippe, aim to stay independent, says Victoria Lee, an analysts at Barclays Capital.
That may change amid Swiss regulatory changes. Swatch will from next year cut component deliveries as it seeks to end a regulatory requirement that it sell such parts to rivals.
If that happens, the financial burden of investing in their own research and development and manufacturing capabilities may force some smaller companies to sell.
Independent companies wishing to remain so may pursue IPOs as a path to fundraising instead. Ferragamo, the Italian luxury shoemaker, spurned suitors, both private equity and competitors, in favour of selling shares to the public, said Ferruccio Ferragamo, the company's chairman last week. Ferragamo is set to start trading in Milan on June 29.
Rivals will be watching the success of both Ferragamo, whose shoes have been worn by actresses Marilyn Monroe and Jennifer Lopez over the company's 84-year history, and Prada, which is said to have raised about $2.1bn in a Hong Kong IPO after the company sold shares at the low end of its price range amid a global market slump.
Prada shares will start trading on Friday.
At the low end of the price range, Prada is valued at about 23 times estimated earnings while LVMH trades at about 18.55 times. PPR is valued at about 13.5 times.
Most deals involving medium-sized companies that lack the financial or human resources to tap growth in China, will be with investors who have expertise and contacts in the region to help manage the "rocketing" costs for employees and retail space.
The Ferragamo family in March sold an 8 per cent stake in the company to the Hong Kong businessman Peter Woo and agreed to raise its stakes in distributors based in China, Hong Kong, Taiwan and Macau.
How long potential targets stay independent may be partly a question of price, says Mr Guy.
"Luxury-goods stocks have had a phenomenal run since the financial downturn, but ultimately there is more to go for if you're a smaller player and you've still got big opportunities to grow size and scale relative to peers," he says.
* Bloomberg News
Killing of Qassem Suleimani
Dengue%20fever%20symptoms
%3Cp%3EHigh%20fever%20(40%C2%B0C%2F104%C2%B0F)%3Cbr%3ESevere%20headache%3Cbr%3EPain%20behind%20the%20eyes%3Cbr%3EMuscle%20and%20joint%20pains%3Cbr%3ENausea%3Cbr%3EVomiting%3Cbr%3ESwollen%20glands%3Cbr%3ERash%26nbsp%3B%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
NO OTHER LAND
Director: Basel Adra, Yuval Abraham, Rachel Szor, Hamdan Ballal
Stars: Basel Adra, Yuval Abraham
Rating: 3.5/5
COMPANY%20PROFILE
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3ECompany%20name%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Clinicy%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EStarted%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%202017%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EFounders%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Prince%20Mohammed%20Bin%20Abdulrahman%2C%20Abdullah%20bin%20Sulaiman%20Alobaid%20and%20Saud%20bin%20Sulaiman%20Alobaid%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EBased%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Riyadh%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ENumber%20of%20staff%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%2025%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ESector%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20HealthTech%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ETotal%20funding%20raised%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20More%20than%20%2410%20million%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EInvestors%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Middle%20East%20Venture%20Partners%2C%20Gate%20Capital%2C%20Kafou%20Group%20and%20Fadeed%20Investment%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
What is the definition of an SME?
SMEs in the UAE are defined by the number of employees, annual turnover and sector. For example, a “small company” in the services industry has six to 50 employees with a turnover of more than Dh2 million up to Dh20m, while in the manufacturing industry the requirements are 10 to 100 employees with a turnover of more than Dh3m up to Dh50m, according to Dubai SME, an agency of the Department of Economic Development.
A “medium-sized company” can either have staff of 51 to 200 employees or 101 to 250 employees, and a turnover less than or equal to Dh200m or Dh250m, again depending on whether the business is in the trading, manufacturing or services sectors.
Key facilities
- Olympic-size swimming pool with a split bulkhead for multi-use configurations, including water polo and 50m/25m training lanes
- Premier League-standard football pitch
- 400m Olympic running track
- NBA-spec basketball court with auditorium
- 600-seat auditorium
- Spaces for historical and cultural exploration
- An elevated football field that doubles as a helipad
- Specialist robotics and science laboratories
- AR and VR-enabled learning centres
- Disruption Lab and Research Centre for developing entrepreneurial skills
JOKE'S%20ON%20YOU
%3Cp%3EGoogle%20wasn't%20new%20to%20busting%20out%20April%20Fool's%20jokes%3A%20before%20the%20Gmail%20%22prank%22%2C%20it%20tricked%20users%20with%20%3Ca%20href%3D%22https%3A%2F%2Farchive.google%2Fmentalplex%2F%22%20target%3D%22_blank%22%3Emind-reading%20MentalPlex%20responses%3C%2Fa%3E%20and%20said%3Ca%20href%3D%22https%3A%2F%2Farchive.google%2Fpigeonrank%2F%22%20target%3D%22_blank%22%3E%20well-fed%20pigeons%20were%20running%20its%20search%20engine%20operations%3C%2Fa%3E%20.%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3EIn%20subsequent%20years%2C%20they%20announced%20home%20internet%20services%20through%20your%20toilet%20with%20its%20%22%3Ca%20href%3D%22https%3A%2F%2Farchive.google%2Ftisp%2Finstall.html%22%20target%3D%22_blank%22%3Epatented%20GFlush%20system%3C%2Fa%3E%22%2C%20made%20us%20believe%20the%20Moon's%20surface%20was%20made%20of%20cheese%20and%20unveiled%20a%20dating%20service%20in%20which%20they%20called%20founders%20Sergey%20Brin%20and%20Larry%20Page%20%22%3Ca%20href%3D%22https%3A%2F%2Farchive.google%2Fromance%2Fpress.html%22%20target%3D%22_blank%22%3EStanford%20PhD%20wannabes%3C%2Fa%3E%20%22.%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3EBut%20Gmail%20was%20all%20too%20real%2C%20purportedly%20inspired%20by%20one%20%E2%80%93%20a%20single%20%E2%80%93%20Google%20user%20complaining%20about%20the%20%22poor%20quality%20of%20existing%20email%20services%22%20and%20born%20%22%3Ca%20href%3D%22https%3A%2F%2Fgooglepress.blogspot.com%2F2004%2F04%2Fgoogle-gets-message-launches-gmail.html%22%20target%3D%22_blank%22%3Emillions%20of%20M%26amp%3BMs%20later%3C%2Fa%3E%22.%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
A MINECRAFT MOVIE
Director: Jared Hess
Starring: Jack Black, Jennifer Coolidge, Jason Momoa
Rating: 3/5
In numbers: PKK’s money network in Europe
Germany: PKK collectors typically bring in $18 million in cash a year – amount has trebled since 2010
Revolutionary tax: Investigators say about $2 million a year raised from ‘tax collection’ around Marseille
Extortion: Gunman convicted in 2023 of demanding $10,000 from Kurdish businessman in Stockholm
Drug trade: PKK income claimed by Turkish anti-drugs force in 2024 to be as high as $500 million a year
Denmark: PKK one of two terrorist groups along with Iranian separatists ASMLA to raise “two-digit million amounts”
Contributions: Hundreds of euros expected from typical Kurdish families and thousands from business owners
TV channel: Kurdish Roj TV accounts frozen and went bankrupt after Denmark fined it more than $1 million over PKK links in 2013
Specs
Engine: Duel electric motors
Power: 659hp
Torque: 1075Nm
On sale: Available for pre-order now
Price: On request
Company profile
Company: Verity
Date started: May 2021
Founders: Kamal Al-Samarrai, Dina Shoman and Omar Al Sharif
Based: Dubai
Sector: FinTech
Size: four team members
Stage: Intially bootstrapped but recently closed its first pre-seed round of $800,000
Investors: Wamda, VentureSouq, Beyond Capital and regional angel investors
Mercer, the investment consulting arm of US services company Marsh & McLennan, expects its wealth division to at least double its assets under management (AUM) in the Middle East as wealth in the region continues to grow despite economic headwinds, a company official said.
Mercer Wealth, which globally has $160 billion in AUM, plans to boost its AUM in the region to $2-$3bn in the next 2-3 years from the present $1bn, said Yasir AbuShaban, a Dubai-based principal with Mercer Wealth.
“Within the next two to three years, we are looking at reaching $2 to $3 billion as a conservative estimate and we do see an opportunity to do so,” said Mr AbuShaban.
Mercer does not directly make investments, but allocates clients’ money they have discretion to, to professional asset managers. They also provide advice to clients.
“We have buying power. We can negotiate on their (client’s) behalf with asset managers to provide them lower fees than they otherwise would have to get on their own,” he added.
Mercer Wealth’s clients include sovereign wealth funds, family offices, and insurance companies among others.
From its office in Dubai, Mercer also looks after Africa, India and Turkey, where they also see opportunity for growth.
Wealth creation in Middle East and Africa (MEA) grew 8.5 per cent to $8.1 trillion last year from $7.5tn in 2015, higher than last year’s global average of 6 per cent and the second-highest growth in a region after Asia-Pacific which grew 9.9 per cent, according to consultancy Boston Consulting Group (BCG). In the region, where wealth grew just 1.9 per cent in 2015 compared with 2014, a pickup in oil prices has helped in wealth generation.
BCG is forecasting MEA wealth will rise to $12tn by 2021, growing at an annual average of 8 per cent.
Drivers of wealth generation in the region will be split evenly between new wealth creation and growth of performance of existing assets, according to BCG.
Another general trend in the region is clients’ looking for a comprehensive approach to investing, according to Mr AbuShaban.
“Institutional investors or some of the families are seeing a slowdown in the available capital they have to invest and in that sense they are looking at optimizing the way they manage their portfolios and making sure they are not investing haphazardly and different parts of their investment are working together,” said Mr AbuShaban.
Some clients also have a higher appetite for risk, given the low interest-rate environment that does not provide enough yield for some institutional investors. These clients are keen to invest in illiquid assets, such as private equity and infrastructure.
“What we have seen is a desire for higher returns in what has been a low-return environment specifically in various fixed income or bonds,” he said.
“In this environment, we have seen a de facto increase in the risk that clients are taking in things like illiquid investments, private equity investments, infrastructure and private debt, those kind of investments were higher illiquidity results in incrementally higher returns.”
The Abu Dhabi Investment Authority, one of the largest sovereign wealth funds, said in its 2016 report that has gradually increased its exposure in direct private equity and private credit transactions, mainly in Asian markets and especially in China and India. The authority’s private equity department focused on structured equities owing to “their defensive characteristics.”
Mane points for safe home colouring
- Natural and grey hair takes colour differently than chemically treated hair
- Taking hair from a dark to a light colour should involve a slow transition through warmer stages of colour
- When choosing a colour (especially a lighter tone), allow for a natural lift of warmth
- Most modern hair colours are technique-based, in that they require a confident hand and taught skills
- If you decide to be brave and go for it, seek professional advice and use a semi-permanent colour
Suggested picnic spots
Abu Dhabi
Umm Al Emarat Park
Yas Gateway Park
Delma Park
Al Bateen beach
Saadiyaat beach
The Corniche
Zayed Sports City
Dubai
Kite Beach
Zabeel Park
Al Nahda Pond Park
Mushrif Park
Safa Park
Al Mamzar Beach Park
Al Qudrah Lakes
Company profile
Company: Rent Your Wardrobe
Date started: May 2021
Founder: Mamta Arora
Based: Dubai
Sector: Clothes rental subscription
Stage: Bootstrapped, self-funded
Founder: Ayman Badawi
Date started: Test product September 2016, paid launch January 2017
Based: Dubai, UAE
Sector: Software
Size: Seven employees
Funding: $170,000 in angel investment
Funders: friends
Getting there
The flights
Flydubai operates up to seven flights a week to Helsinki. Return fares to Helsinki from Dubai start from Dh1,545 in Economy and Dh7,560 in Business Class.
The stay
Golden Crown Igloos in Levi offer stays from Dh1,215 per person per night for a superior igloo; www.leviniglut.net
Panorama Hotel in Levi is conveniently located at the top of Levi fell, a short walk from the gondola. Stays start from Dh292 per night based on two people sharing; www. golevi.fi/en/accommodation/hotel-levi-panorama
Arctic Treehouse Hotel in Rovaniemi offers stays from Dh1,379 per night based on two people sharing; www.arctictreehousehotel.com
Ms Yang's top tips for parents new to the UAE
- Join parent networks
- Look beyond school fees
- Keep an open mind
