A model on the runway at the Esprit show during the About You Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 21 at Kraftwerk in Berlin. Esprit became a global household name in the 1980s and 1990s. Getty
A model on the runway at the Esprit show during the About You Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 21 at Kraftwerk in Berlin. Esprit became a global household name in the 1980s and 1990s. Getty
A model on the runway at the Esprit show during the About You Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 21 at Kraftwerk in Berlin. Esprit became a global household name in the 1980s and 1990s. Getty
A model on the runway at the Esprit show during the About You Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 21 at Kraftwerk in Berlin. Esprit became a global household name in the 1980s and 1990s. Getty

Esprit plans Asia return with focus on expensive clothing


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Esprit Holdings, the once high-flying Hong Kong fashion retailer before it tumbled into years of losses, is planning a comeback in Asia, turning away from a fast-fashion strategy where it failed to compete with brands such as Zara and H & .

The company is now focusing on better-quality clothing that is more expensive than fast-fashion apparel but more sustainable, chief executive William Pak said in an interview with Bloomberg Television on Monday.

It is also returning to Asia after closing all 56 stores in the region in early 2020 amid coronavirus-induced lockdowns.

A pop-up store opened in Seoul in April, and a flagship outlet in Hong Kong’s Causeway Bay shopping centre is set to open next month.

While the focus will remain on e-commerce, the company wants to have at least one signature store in vital Asian markets where it also has an online presence, Mr Pak said.

It has launched online platforms in South Korea, Hong Kong, Taiwan and the Philippines, and plans to expand into mainland China, Singapore and Thailand by the end of the year.

Esprit’s changing strategy comes as the fast-fashion model faces increasing criticism over environmental, social and management issues such as wastefulness, questionable sourcing of materials and sweatshop manufacturing.

The company, which became a global household name in the 1980s and 1990s, is hoping to create a clean and youthful image to return to the heyday of double-digit growth.

“We are really targeting exponential growth of revenue,” Mr Pak said. “Esprit is not fast fashion, and it took a long time for this to be realised in the company.”

Still, Esprit faces an uphill battle winning back market share in Asia, one of the world’s most competitive fashion markets crowded with global majors who are expanding aggressively physically and online.

While many fast-fashion brands such as Zara and H & are switching to focus on sustainability, it also faces the rise of ultra-cheap online platforms such as China’s Shein, which is considering an initial public offering in the US as soon as 2024.

In its shift towards sustainability, Esprit has reduced its fashion cycles from 12 collections a year to four, supplemented with limited-edition collections with other partners. It is also moved its headquarters back to Hong Kong to streamline communications and logistics, because most of the company’s suppliers are in Asia.

The strategy helped Esprit to make a profit in 2021, the first in five years, with net income of HK$381 million ($48.5m).

Founded in 1968 by Susie and Doug Tompkins in San Francisco, Esprit went global in the 1970s after the couple met Hong Kong businessman Michael Ying, who found Chinese suppliers for the group.

In 1996, Esprit was taken over by private-equity investors Oaktree Capital Management and Cerberus Partners, who closed the brand’s US stand-alone stores and catalogue business.

As US sales declined, Esprit’s Asian unit grew. Esprit Far East, a Hong Kong-based unit founded by Mr Ying, sold shares to the public in 1993.

In 1996, Mr Ying bought Esprit’s European unit and renamed the company Esprit Holdings. He paid $150m for the rights to Esprit in the US in February 2002, uniting all the brands under a single company.

Once a blue-chip company in Hong Kong, Esprit was dropped from the city’s benchmark Hang Seng index in 2013 after sales plunged.

In numbers: PKK’s money network in Europe

Germany: PKK collectors typically bring in $18 million in cash a year – amount has trebled since 2010

Revolutionary tax: Investigators say about $2 million a year raised from ‘tax collection’ around Marseille

Extortion: Gunman convicted in 2023 of demanding $10,000 from Kurdish businessman in Stockholm

Drug trade: PKK income claimed by Turkish anti-drugs force in 2024 to be as high as $500 million a year

Denmark: PKK one of two terrorist groups along with Iranian separatists ASMLA to raise “two-digit million amounts”

Contributions: Hundreds of euros expected from typical Kurdish families and thousands from business owners

TV channel: Kurdish Roj TV accounts frozen and went bankrupt after Denmark fined it more than $1 million over PKK links in 2013 

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THE SPECS

Engine: 1.5-litre turbocharged four-cylinder

Transmission: Constant Variable (CVT)

Power: 141bhp 

Torque: 250Nm 

Price: Dh64,500

On sale: Now

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Company Profile

Name: Thndr
Started: 2019
Co-founders: Ahmad Hammouda and Seif Amr
Sector: FinTech
Headquarters: Egypt
UAE base: Hub71, Abu Dhabi
Current number of staff: More than 150
Funds raised: $22 million

Lexus LX700h specs

Engine: 3.4-litre twin-turbo V6 plus supplementary electric motor

Power: 464hp at 5,200rpm

Torque: 790Nm from 2,000-3,600rpm

Transmission: 10-speed auto

Fuel consumption: 11.7L/100km

On sale: Now

Price: From Dh590,000

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UPI facts

More than 2.2 million Indian tourists arrived in UAE in 2023
More than 3.5 million Indians reside in UAE
Indian tourists can make purchases in UAE using rupee accounts in India through QR-code-based UPI real-time payment systems
Indian residents in UAE can use their non-resident NRO and NRE accounts held in Indian banks linked to a UAE mobile number for UPI transactions

Recipe

Garlicky shrimp in olive oil
Gambas Al Ajillo

Preparation time: 5 to 10 minutes

Cooking time: 5 minutes

Serves 4

Ingredients

180ml extra virgin olive oil; 4 to 5 large cloves of garlic, minced or pureed (or 3 to 4 garlic scapes, roughly chopped); 1 or 2 small hot red chillies, dried (or ¼ teaspoon dried red chilli flakes); 400g raw prawns, deveined, heads removed and tails left intact; a generous splash of sweet chilli vinegar; sea salt flakes for seasoning; a small handful of fresh flat-leaf parsley, roughly chopped

Method

Heat the oil in a terracotta dish or frying pan. Once the oil is sizzling hot, add the garlic and chilli, stirring continuously for about 10 seconds until golden and aromatic.

Add a splash of sweet chilli vinegar and as it vigorously simmers, releasing perfumed aromas, add the prawns and cook, stirring a few times.

Once the prawns turn pink, after 1 or 2 minutes of cooking,  remove from the heat and season with sea salt flakes.

Once the prawns are cool enough to eat, scatter with parsley and serve with small forks or toothpicks as the perfect sharing starter. Finish off with crusty bread to soak up all that flavour-infused olive oil.

 

Brief scores:

Toss: Sindhis, elected to field first

Kerala Knights 103-7 (10 ov)

Parnell 59 not out; Tambe 5-15

Sindhis 104-1 (7.4 ov)

Watson 50 not out, Devcich 49

RESULTS

5pm: Maiden (PA) Dh 80,000 (Turf) 1,200m
Winner: AF Majalis, Tadhg O’Shea (jockey), Ernst Oertel (trainer).

5.30pm: Maiden (PA) Dh 80,000 (T) 1,400m
Winner: Sawt Assalam, Szczepan Mazur, Ibrahim Al Hadhrami.

6pm: Maiden (PA) Dh 80,000 (T) 1,400m
Winner: Foah, Fabrice Veron, Eric Lemartinel.

6.30pm: Wathba Stallions Cup Handicap (PA) Dh 70,000 (T) 1,400m
Winner: Faiza, Sandro Paiva, Ali Rashid Al Raihe.

7pm: Handicap (PA) Dh 80,000 (T) 1,600m
Winner: RB Dixie Honor, Antonio Fresu, Helal Al Alawi.

7.30pm: Rated Conditions (TB) Dh 100,000 (T) 1,600m
Winner: Boerhan, Ryan Curatolo, Nicholas Bachalard.

MATCH DETAILS

Barcelona 0

Slavia Prague 0

COMPANY PROFILE
Name: ARDH Collective
Based: Dubai
Founders: Alhaan Ahmed, Alyina Ahmed and Maximo Tettamanzi
Sector: Sustainability
Total funding: Self funded
Number of employees: 4
Pakistanis%20at%20the%20ILT20%20
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Sour%20Grapes
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RESULTS

Bantamweight: Victor Nunes (BRA) beat Azizbek Satibaldiev (KYG). Round 1 KO

Featherweight: Izzeddin Farhan (JOR) beat Ozodbek Azimov (UZB). Round 1 rear naked choke

Middleweight: Zaakir Badat (RSA) beat Ercin Sirin (TUR). Round 1 triangle choke

Featherweight: Ali Alqaisi (JOR) beat Furkatbek Yokubov (UZB). Round 1 TKO

Featherweight: Abu Muslim Alikhanov (RUS) beat Atabek Abdimitalipov (KYG). Unanimous decision

Catchweight 74kg: Mirafzal Akhtamov (UZB) beat Marcos Costa (BRA). Split decision

Welterweight: Andre Fialho (POR) beat Sang Hoon-yu (KOR). Round 1 TKO

Lightweight: John Mitchell (IRE) beat Arbi Emiev (RUS). Round 2 RSC (deep cuts)

Middleweight: Gianni Melillo (ITA) beat Mohammed Karaki (LEB)

Welterweight: Handesson Ferreira (BRA) beat Amiran Gogoladze (GEO). Unanimous decision

Flyweight (Female): Carolina Jimenez (VEN) beat Lucrezia Ria (ITA), Round 1 rear naked choke

Welterweight: Daniel Skibinski (POL) beat Acoidan Duque (ESP). Round 3 TKO

Lightweight: Martun Mezhlumyan (ARM) beat Attila Korkmaz (TUR). Unanimous decision

Bantamweight: Ray Borg (USA) beat Jesse Arnett (CAN). Unanimous decision

'Nope'
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Updated: July 19, 2022, 4:30 AM`