Consuelo Castiglioni doesn’t like interviews. In fact, the founder of Marni dislikes anything to do with the media. Notoriously reticent, her press appearances are rare – every move undertaken with painstaking precision and preparation. So when you do get the opportunity to interview her, it is something of a coup – but no easy task. Castiglioni is uncomfortable with the pomp that surrounds the fashion industry, not to mention its commercial constraints, and remains thoroughly tightly zipped. Although this doesn’t exactly win hearts and souls, keeping things at an arm’s length has always been her primary coping mechanism. “I am a very reserved person and prefer that my work speaks for me,” she explains.
She doesn’t advertise, either. Nor does she pester celebrities or key media. Which is all highly admirable, but, in an industry driven by packs of powerful publicists, it can’t have been an easy line to tread. Certainly, it is less difficult to defend such decisions when business is good, and perhaps her decision to remain removed has only ever added to Marni’s allure. For, despite having spent most of her career hovering on the periphery of the fashion world, she has been singled out as one of the most progressive and pioneering designers of our time. Whether or not she is conscious of her place in fashion history matters little – her eccentricity provides light relief in an industry that can often be seen as rife with banality.
“I don’t like narrow borders, nor do I like impositions,” Castiglioni says. “Marni is a range of possibilities for people to choose from, and I want the customer to be the one who makes those choices.”
In recent times, designers have increasingly had to call on their powers of invention to survive. Which has put Marni in prime position, for unlike so many of Castiglioni’s contemporaries, she will not allow her vision to be hampered by anything as prosaic as commercialism. Like her, her clothes are uncompromising. They are what they are – if you like them, you like them. If you don’t, you don’t. No apologies here.
The Swiss-born, part-Chilean Castiglioni grew up in Lugano, Switzerland. She talks of a happy childhood, with her mother at home taking care of her and her sister. “I remember lots of friends coming to our house, having fun in our garden and dressing up in our mother’s clothes. She taught me that if you believe in something, you have to fight to obtain it, without being influenced too much by others’ opinions.”
In 1978, she fell in love with and married Gianni Castiglioni, the eldest of four sons who worked in the family business, a fur company called CiwiFurs, which produced garments for many of the big international fashion labels. Soon after her wedding (she walked down the aisle in her grandmother’s wedding dress), she joined the company, despite having a complete lack of formal training. She initially focused on furs and later, more interestingly, on their reinvention.
“We met when we were very young and our paths developed naturally together, starting from our life together in Milan to founding Marni,” she says of the relationship.
The pair set up Marni in 1994, naming the new brand after Gianni’s sister, Marina, known affectionately as Marni. The first ready-to-wear collection was extremely well-received and before long, the duo was at the helm of one of the youngest but most highly respected fashion houses in Italy.
I ask if she felt like she had something to prove, breaking the market so quickly without the crutch of a formal design background. “The development was very organic,” she explains. “When we launched Marni in 1994, furs were very old-fashioned and my wish was to interpret them with a more modern twist and work the material with a fur-to-fabric approach. It proved successful. Every following step arrived naturally, such as the introduction of the first spring/summer collection, the accessories, menswear, etc. We always stepped onwards only when we felt the time was ripe.”
It is impossible to remain indifferent to such an inspired maverick. Often designers are so locked in a web of rules that they forget what design is meant to be about – innovation. Castiglioni is different. She has ensured that the Marni woman doesn’t rely purely on sex appeal – often defying traditional ideals of femininity and beauty completely. The brand’s aesthetic sits somewhere in the murky waters between high culture and the ordinary world – not an easy resting point.
“The Marni aesthetic is about the cross-contamination of different worlds and often composed of contrasting details – mixing couture and sportswear, the interest for folk and functionality, austerity and romanticism. I can only speak for myself, but innovation is such an important detail of my work, it means finding new solutions and interpreting elements in unexpected ways.”
And yet, despite her success, Castiglioni’s family has always come first, she says. “When my children were very young, I concentrated on taking care of them. It wasn’t until they were grown up that I started Marni. It is difficult to manage both things, but my family has always been my priority.”
Today, Castiglioni’s family is involved in every aspect of the business – a rare feat for an operation of this size. Her husband, Gianni (whom she admires “for his rational approach”), is Marni’s chief executive, and their daughter, Carolina, is the director of special projects.
“We are a very close family, and there is an open dialogue, filled with passion and attention,” Castiglioni explains. “Everyone contributes with their own ideas and experiences. It is stimulating for all of us.”
In dissecting her collections, it becomes clear that Castiglioni is also influenced by the intermingling of different art forms – particularly geometry and architecture. She speaks of her love of Frank Lloyd Wright and Mies van der Rohe because of the atmosphere they convey, but also for their use of form, colour, print and texture. Like Schiaparelli and Chanel before her, Castiglioni finds confrontation with other visions exciting, and her collaborations with the art world are always fascinating.
“I like to experiment and art for me is an immense source of ideas, images, colours, details and solutions. I think art is closely linked with fashion, as they are both an expression of the zeitgeist. Indeed, a dress can be seen as a piece of art: a functional one, a fine three-dimensional handicraft.”
Her approach towards the whole creative process is highly intuitive. “I follow my instincts completely and want to be involved in every step. This is not always easy or immediate to achieve. It takes many attempts until it really feels right.”
In 2012, somewhat surprisingly to those around her, Castiglioni accepted an offer to design a capsule collection for the high-street brand H&M. It was a plucky choice: here was a hugely successful avant-garde designer handing over the reins to a high-street superpower known for its throwaway fashion. How would youth culture even begin to understand the essence of the Marni woman?
Castiglioni’s aim was to produce a Marni collection that offered quality to the mainstream market. “I liked the challenge right away. It offered me the opportunity to reach a wider audience, in particular a younger generation.”
It sold out in minutes.
Of course, maintaining Castiglioni’s specific brand of tunnel vision is difficult in today’s corporate culture. Although the company had readily admitted to having been approached by potential investors and buyers for years, it wasn’t until the close of 2012 that Renzo Rosso and his company, Only the Brave (OTB), finally acquired a major stake, signalling Marni’s desire to expand further globally.
Wasn’t she worried? “OTB is an Italian company and Renzo is a friend – we felt that with him we could develop the company in the right way,” she says.
Their recent plans for expansion are of elephantine proportions – reportedly, the aim is to double sales. These include new store openings in Abu Dhabi and Saudi Arabia among other new markets, and the roll-out of strategic and infrastructural changes to their store concepts.
“The competition is becoming more and more difficult and the market is more and more demanding. We need to create new proposals all the time, which is really challenging.”
I ask if she ever thinks it would be nice to just live an ordinary life, to read books, see friends and do all of the things she enjoys without the pressures of “global expansion” and all that goes with it. For what are clothes without a life to live them in?
“My work is, of course, very much part of my life, but I do find moments to visit a new art gallery or to play with my grandchildren … this is very important to me. I couldn’t live without the house in the mountains in Celerina, Switzerland. It was built by my mother in 1963 and it’s one of the places where I can really relax and spend time with my family and friends.”
That’s the thing about Castiglioni – unlike many of her contemporaries, she is under no illusions about the eccentric world she inhabits, and chooses to approach the industry with a healthy level of irreverence. Like most inspired creatives, she has no time for popular taste, and I have a feeling that, deep down, she opposes conventional design as much as she does the limelight. “All I know is that if you have an opinion and a vision you have to follow it,” she maintains. “It is so important to remain true to oneself.”
COMPANY%20PROFILE
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MATCH INFO
Championship play-offs, second legs:
Aston Villa 0
Middlesbrough 0
(Aston Villa advance 1-0 on aggregate)
Fulham 2
Sessegnon (47'), Odoi (66')
Derby County 0
(Fulham advance 2-1 on aggregate)
Final
Saturday, May 26, Wembley. Kick off 8pm (UAE)
The Byblos iftar in numbers
29 or 30 days – the number of iftar services held during the holy month
50 staff members required to prepare an iftar
200 to 350 the number of people served iftar nightly
160 litres of the traditional Ramadan drink, jalab, is served in total
500 litres of soup is served during the holy month
200 kilograms of meat is used for various dishes
350 kilograms of onion is used in dishes
5 minutes – the average time that staff have to eat
COMPANY%20PROFILE
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The story in numbers
18
This is how many recognised sects Lebanon is home to, along with about four million citizens
450,000
More than this many Palestinian refugees are registered with UNRWA in Lebanon, with about 45 per cent of them living in the country’s 12 refugee camps
1.5 million
There are just under 1 million Syrian refugees registered with the UN, although the government puts the figure upwards of 1.5m
73
The percentage of stateless people in Lebanon, who are not of Palestinian origin, born to a Lebanese mother, according to a 2012-2013 study by human rights organisation Frontiers Ruwad Association
18,000
The number of marriages recorded between Lebanese women and foreigners between the years 1995 and 2008, according to a 2009 study backed by the UN Development Programme
77,400
The number of people believed to be affected by the current nationality law, according to the 2009 UN study
4,926
This is how many Lebanese-Palestinian households there were in Lebanon in 2016, according to a census by the Lebanese-Palestinian dialogue committee
The specs
Engine: 3.5-litre twin-turbo V6
Power: 380hp at 5,800rpm
Torque: 530Nm at 1,300-4,500rpm
Transmission: Eight-speed auto
Price: From Dh299,000 ($81,415)
On sale: Now
Company%20profile
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EName%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EPurpl%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3ECo-founders%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EKarl%20Naim%2C%20Wissam%20Ghorra%2C%20Jean-Marie%20Khoueir%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EBased%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EHub71%20in%20Abu%20Dhabi%20and%20Beirut%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EStarted%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E2021%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3ENumber%20of%20employees%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E12%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3ESector%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EFinTech%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EFunding%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E%242%20million%26nbsp%3B%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
What can victims do?
Always use only regulated platforms
Stop all transactions and communication on suspicion
Save all evidence (screenshots, chat logs, transaction IDs)
Report to local authorities
Warn others to prevent further harm
Courtesy: Crystal Intelligence
COMPANY%20PROFILE
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3ECompany%20name%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Klipit%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EStarted%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%202022%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EFounders%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Venkat%20Reddy%2C%20Mohammed%20Al%20Bulooki%2C%20Bilal%20Merchant%2C%20Asif%20Ahmed%2C%20Ovais%20Merchant%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EBased%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Dubai%2C%20UAE%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EIndustry%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Digital%20receipts%2C%20finance%2C%20blockchain%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EFunding%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20%244%20million%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EInvestors%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Privately%2Fself-funded%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
The specs
AT4 Ultimate, as tested
Engine: 6.2-litre V8
Power: 420hp
Torque: 623Nm
Transmission: 10-speed automatic
Price: From Dh330,800 (Elevation: Dh236,400; AT4: Dh286,800; Denali: Dh345,800)
On sale: Now
The specs: 2019 BMW X4
Price, base / as tested: Dh276,675 / Dh346,800
Engine: 3.0-litre turbocharged in-line six-cylinder
Transmission: Eight-speed automatic
Power: 354hp @ 5,500rpm
Torque: 500Nm @ 1,550rpm
Fuel economy, combined: 9.0L / 100km
Killing of Qassem Suleimani
More from Neighbourhood Watch:
Sole survivors
- Cecelia Crocker was on board Northwest Airlines Flight 255 in 1987 when it crashed in Detroit, killing 154 people, including her parents and brother. The plane had hit a light pole on take off
- George Lamson Jr, from Minnesota, was on a Galaxy Airlines flight that crashed in Reno in 1985, killing 68 people. His entire seat was launched out of the plane
- Bahia Bakari, then 12, survived when a Yemenia Airways flight crashed near the Comoros in 2009, killing 152. She was found clinging to wreckage after floating in the ocean for 13 hours.
- Jim Polehinke was the co-pilot and sole survivor of a 2006 Comair flight that crashed in Lexington, Kentucky, killing 49.
%E2%80%98FSO%20Safer%E2%80%99%20-%20a%20ticking%20bomb
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Players Selected for La Liga Trials
U18 Age Group
Name: Ahmed Salam (Malaga)
Position: Right Wing
Nationality: Jordanian
Name: Yahia Iraqi (Malaga)
Position: Left Wing
Nationality: Morocco
Name: Mohammed Bouherrafa (Almeria)
Position: Centre-Midfield
Nationality: French
Name: Mohammed Rajeh (Cadiz)
Position: Striker
Nationality: Jordanian
U16 Age Group
Name: Mehdi Elkhamlichi (Malaga)
Position: Lead Striker
Nationality: Morocco
'Laal Kaptaan'
Director: Navdeep Singh
Stars: Saif Ali Khan, Manav Vij, Deepak Dobriyal, Zoya Hussain
Rating: 2/5
The Settlers
Director: Louis Theroux
Starring: Daniella Weiss, Ari Abramowitz
Rating: 5/5
LIVING IN...
This article is part of a guide on where to live in the UAE. Our reporters will profile some of the country’s most desirable districts, provide an estimate of rental prices and introduce you to some of the residents who call each area home.
Specs
Engine: 51.5kW electric motor
Range: 400km
Power: 134bhp
Torque: 175Nm
Price: From Dh98,800
Available: Now
How to watch Ireland v Pakistan in UAE
When: The one-off Test starts on Friday, May 11
What time: Each day’s play is scheduled to start at 2pm UAE time.
TV: The match will be broadcast on OSN Sports Cricket HD. Subscribers to the channel can also stream the action live on OSN Play.
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
Moon Music
Artist: Coldplay
Label: Parlophone/Atlantic
Number of tracks: 10
Rating: 3/5
All or Nothing
Amazon Prime
Four stars
Important questions to consider
1. Where on the plane does my pet travel?
There are different types of travel available for pets:
- Manifest cargo
- Excess luggage in the hold
- Excess luggage in the cabin
Each option is safe. The feasibility of each option is based on the size and breed of your pet, the airline they are traveling on and country they are travelling to.
2. What is the difference between my pet traveling as manifest cargo or as excess luggage?
If traveling as manifest cargo, your pet is traveling in the front hold of the plane and can travel with or without you being on the same plane. The cost of your pets travel is based on volumetric weight, in other words, the size of their travel crate.
If traveling as excess luggage, your pet will be in the rear hold of the plane and must be traveling under the ticket of a human passenger. The cost of your pets travel is based on the actual (combined) weight of your pet in their crate.
3. What happens when my pet arrives in the country they are traveling to?
As soon as the flight arrives, your pet will be taken from the plane straight to the airport terminal.
If your pet is traveling as excess luggage, they will taken to the oversized luggage area in the arrival hall. Once you clear passport control, you will be able to collect them at the same time as your normal luggage. As you exit the airport via the ‘something to declare’ customs channel you will be asked to present your pets travel paperwork to the customs official and / or the vet on duty.
If your pet is traveling as manifest cargo, they will be taken to the Animal Reception Centre. There, their documentation will be reviewed by the staff of the ARC to ensure all is in order. At the same time, relevant customs formalities will be completed by staff based at the arriving airport.
4. How long does the travel paperwork and other travel preparations take?
This depends entirely on the location that your pet is traveling to. Your pet relocation compnay will provide you with an accurate timeline of how long the relevant preparations will take and at what point in the process the various steps must be taken.
In some cases they can get your pet ‘travel ready’ in a few days. In others it can be up to six months or more.
5. What vaccinations does my pet need to travel?
Regardless of where your pet is traveling, they will need certain vaccinations. The exact vaccinations they need are entirely dependent on the location they are traveling to. The one vaccination that is mandatory for every country your pet may travel to is a rabies vaccination.
Other vaccinations may also be necessary. These will be advised to you as relevant. In every situation, it is essential to keep your vaccinations current and to not miss a due date, even by one day. To do so could severely hinder your pets travel plans.
Source: Pawsome Pets UAE
The Beach Bum
Director: Harmony Korine
Stars: Matthew McConaughey, Isla Fisher, Snoop Dogg
Two stars
ON%20TRACK
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The biog
Name: Salvador Toriano Jr
Age: 59
From: Laguna, The Philippines
Favourite dish: Seabass or Fish and Chips
Hobbies: When he’s not in the restaurant, he still likes to cook, along with walking and meeting up with friends.
Killing of Qassem Suleimani
DC%20League%20of%20Super-Pets
%3Cp%3EDirector%3A%20Jared%20Stern%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3EStarring%3A%20Dwayne%20Johnson%2C%20Kevin%20Hart%2C%20John%20Krasinski%2C%20Keanu%20Reeves%2C%20Olivia%20Wilde%2C%20Kate%20McKinnon%2C%20Jameela%20Jamil%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3ERating%3A%203%2F5%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
