Among all the new restaurants opening on Abu Dhabi’s Al Maryah Island, Roberto’s Abu Dhabi is the one I was most excited about. With an outlet already running successfully in Dubai, I had high hopes for this upscale Italian restaurant.
Roberto’s is a sizeable venue – the lounge alone is as big as many restaurants in the UAE. But the relaxing earthy tones, neutral decor and sporadic greenery ensure the vast space remains warm and intimate.
The well-designed terrace is a seamless extension of the main dining room, overlooking The Galleria’s promenade, the water and the city beyond. The space is chic and modern, but not stuffy. There are no linens on the tables, the dress code is smart-casual, and the waiters are friendly and chatty.
There are nine Italian chefs cooking in the kitchen. The team led by head chef Francesco Guarracino, the former executive chef of Bice Mare in Dubai’s Souk Al Bahar.
He has a reputation for being on the right side of crazy when it comes to food and I was hoping to see some of that innovative madness here.
I was not disappointed. The menu has a handful of dishes from the Dubai outlet and a few from Enrico Bartolini, the two-Michelin-starred Italian chef who is the chief culinary adviser to the Roberto’s group. But the Abu Dhabi menu is 70 per cent Guarracino’s creations.
We start with a drink in the lounge, where we are served complimentary bites. We get foie gras in a fried-onion parcel atop a delicate pile of onion powder; a salmon taco; and a ball of aubergine wrapped in tomato gel, made to look like a cherry tomato – all palate-pleasing dishes to start the night right.
Our lobster appetiser is a plate of sliced lobster paired with red-onion triangles marinated in raspberry vinegar. The buttery lobster chunks are balanced effortlessly with the acidity from the sweet onions.
We also order the slow-roasted octopus with artichoke – a dish created in Abu Dhabi, we find out later, after multiple attempts by Guarracino to get it right. The thick, meaty tentacles have been cooked in the octopus’s own water (that is the secret to the intense, deep flavour). The exterior is charred and crispy, while the inside is tender. It comes with creamy cacio e pepe sauce (literally, cheese and pepper), which is also made with water from the octopus.
The burrata cheese ravioli is quite possibly the best pasta dish I have had in the capital. Seemingly simple and uncomplicated, the creamy, soft burrata packed inside the homemade ravioli brings this classic to another level.
It is brilliantly coupled with a sauce made from datterino tomatoes – small, date-shaped tomatoes that make for a sweet, rich sauce.
The beetroot and Gorgonzola risotto also delivers on taste. The deep, almost neon-purple colour is visually stunning.
The firm, perfectly chewy risotto has an earthy flavour from the beetroot without being overpowering, accented by sharp notes of Gorgonzola. This is Guarracino at his best – subtle, creative, surprising.
The desserts are less unusual, but still carry Guarracino’s trademark creativity. For example, the tiramisu makes use of mascarpone and coffee granita. It is a tasty balance of bitter and sweet, but borders on boring compared with the dishes that preceded it.
The panna cotta is kicked up a notch with dollops of mint gel, but it simply does not excite me as much as the rest of the meal. Another complaint, but one worth noting: the wait staff is knowledgeable and attentive but we are asked too many times by too many people – at least six – how our food is. It’s hard to keep the conversation flowing with that many interruptions.
Roberto’s Abu Dhabi has deservedly taken centre stage among the capital’s most notable restaurants in recent months.
It offers a healthy dose of Italian hospitality with an extensive list of inspired dishes made with ingredients that are nearly all sourced from Italy.
Trust me when I say you will walk away wanting more.
• Our meal for two at Roberto’s Abu Dhabi, Al Maryah Island, cost Dh600. To book, call 02 627 9009. Reviewed meals are paid for by The National and conducted incognito.
sjohnson@thenational.ae
Election pledges on migration
CDU: "Now is the time to control the German borders and enforce strict border rejections"
SPD: "Border closures and blanket rejections at internal borders contradict the spirit of a common area of freedom"
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Skewed figures
In the village of Mevagissey in southwest England the housing stock has doubled in the last century while the number of residents is half the historic high. The village's Neighbourhood Development Plan states that 26% of homes are holiday retreats. Prices are high, averaging around £300,000, £50,000 more than the Cornish average of £250,000. The local average wage is £15,458.
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The White Lotus: Season three
Creator: Mike White
Starring: Walton Goggins, Jason Isaacs, Natasha Rothwell
Rating: 4.5/5
COMPANY PROFILE
Name: Kumulus Water
Started: 2021
Founders: Iheb Triki and Mohamed Ali Abid
Based: Tunisia
Sector: Water technology
Number of staff: 22
Investment raised: $4 million
COMPANY%20PROFILE
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RESULTS
6.30pm Maiden (TB) Dh82.500 (Dirt) 1,400m
Winner Meshakel, Royston Ffrench (jockey), Salem bin Ghadayer (trainer)
7.05pm Handicap (TB) Dh87,500 (D) 1,400m
Winner Gervais, Connor Beasley, Ali Rashid Al Raihe.
7.40pm Handicap (TB) Dh92,500 (Turf) 2,410m
Winner Global Heat, Pat Cosgrave, Saeed bin Suroor.
8.15pm Handicap (TB) Dh105,000 (D) 1,900m
Winner Firnas, Royston Ffrench, Salem bin Ghadayer.
8.50pm UAE 2000 Guineas Trial (TB) Conditions Dh183,650 (D) 1,600m
Winner Rebel’s Romance, William Buick, Charlie Appleby
9.25pm Dubai Trophy (TB) Conditions Dh183,650 (T) 1,200m
Winner Topper Bill, Richard Mullen, Satish Seemar
10pm Handicap (TB) Dh102,500 (T) 1,400m
Winner Wasim, Mickael Barzalona, Ismail Mohammed.
The specs: Macan Turbo
Engine: Dual synchronous electric motors
Power: 639hp
Torque: 1,130Nm
Transmission: Single-speed automatic
Touring range: 591km
Price: From Dh412,500
On sale: Deliveries start in October
Stamp duty timeline
December 2014: Former UK finance minister George Osbourne reforms stamp duty, replacing the slab system with a blended rate scheme, with the top rate increasing to 12 per cent from 10 per cent:
Up to £125,000 - 0%; £125,000 to £250,000 – 2%; £250,000 to £925,000 – 5%; £925,000 to £1.5m: 10%; Over £1.5m – 12%
April 2016: New 3% surcharge applied to any buy-to-let properties or additional homes purchased.
July 2020: Rishi Sunak unveils SDLT holiday, with no tax to pay on the first £500,000, with buyers saving up to £15,000.
March 2021: Mr Sunak decides the fate of SDLT holiday at his March 3 budget, with expectations he will extend the perk unti June.
April 2021: 2% SDLT surcharge added to property transactions made by overseas buyers.
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Formula Middle East Calendar (Formula Regional and Formula 4)
Round 1: January 17-19, Yas Marina Circuit – Abu Dhabi
Round 2: January 22-23, Yas Marina Circuit – Abu Dhabi
Round 3: February 7-9, Dubai Autodrome – Dubai
Round 4: February 14-16, Yas Marina Circuit – Abu Dhabi
Round 5: February 25-27, Jeddah Corniche Circuit – Saudi Arabia
At a glance
Global events: Much of the UK’s economic woes were blamed on “increased global uncertainty”, which can be interpreted as the economic impact of the Ukraine war and the uncertainty over Donald Trump’s tariffs.
Growth forecasts: Cut for 2025 from 2 per cent to 1 per cent. The OBR watchdog also estimated inflation will average 3.2 per cent this year
Welfare: Universal credit health element cut by 50 per cent and frozen for new claimants, building on cuts to the disability and incapacity bill set out earlier this month
Spending cuts: Overall day-to day-spending across government cut by £6.1bn in 2029-30
Tax evasion: Steps to crack down on tax evasion to raise “£6.5bn per year” for the public purse
Defence: New high-tech weaponry, upgrading HM Naval Base in Portsmouth
Housing: Housebuilding to reach its highest in 40 years, with planning reforms helping generate an extra £3.4bn for public finances
Mercer, the investment consulting arm of US services company Marsh & McLennan, expects its wealth division to at least double its assets under management (AUM) in the Middle East as wealth in the region continues to grow despite economic headwinds, a company official said.
Mercer Wealth, which globally has $160 billion in AUM, plans to boost its AUM in the region to $2-$3bn in the next 2-3 years from the present $1bn, said Yasir AbuShaban, a Dubai-based principal with Mercer Wealth.
“Within the next two to three years, we are looking at reaching $2 to $3 billion as a conservative estimate and we do see an opportunity to do so,” said Mr AbuShaban.
Mercer does not directly make investments, but allocates clients’ money they have discretion to, to professional asset managers. They also provide advice to clients.
“We have buying power. We can negotiate on their (client’s) behalf with asset managers to provide them lower fees than they otherwise would have to get on their own,” he added.
Mercer Wealth’s clients include sovereign wealth funds, family offices, and insurance companies among others.
From its office in Dubai, Mercer also looks after Africa, India and Turkey, where they also see opportunity for growth.
Wealth creation in Middle East and Africa (MEA) grew 8.5 per cent to $8.1 trillion last year from $7.5tn in 2015, higher than last year’s global average of 6 per cent and the second-highest growth in a region after Asia-Pacific which grew 9.9 per cent, according to consultancy Boston Consulting Group (BCG). In the region, where wealth grew just 1.9 per cent in 2015 compared with 2014, a pickup in oil prices has helped in wealth generation.
BCG is forecasting MEA wealth will rise to $12tn by 2021, growing at an annual average of 8 per cent.
Drivers of wealth generation in the region will be split evenly between new wealth creation and growth of performance of existing assets, according to BCG.
Another general trend in the region is clients’ looking for a comprehensive approach to investing, according to Mr AbuShaban.
“Institutional investors or some of the families are seeing a slowdown in the available capital they have to invest and in that sense they are looking at optimizing the way they manage their portfolios and making sure they are not investing haphazardly and different parts of their investment are working together,” said Mr AbuShaban.
Some clients also have a higher appetite for risk, given the low interest-rate environment that does not provide enough yield for some institutional investors. These clients are keen to invest in illiquid assets, such as private equity and infrastructure.
“What we have seen is a desire for higher returns in what has been a low-return environment specifically in various fixed income or bonds,” he said.
“In this environment, we have seen a de facto increase in the risk that clients are taking in things like illiquid investments, private equity investments, infrastructure and private debt, those kind of investments were higher illiquidity results in incrementally higher returns.”
The Abu Dhabi Investment Authority, one of the largest sovereign wealth funds, said in its 2016 report that has gradually increased its exposure in direct private equity and private credit transactions, mainly in Asian markets and especially in China and India. The authority’s private equity department focused on structured equities owing to “their defensive characteristics.”
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