Fashion notes: Play a game of clothes with fantasy chic

Over the past two seasons, fashion has shifted from an upbeat, clean-lined minimalism to something much darker – almost cinematic in execution.

Few have been able to escape the effect that fantasy has had on mainstream culture. Perhaps it is a much-needed dose of escapism, but the influence that The Lord of the Rings, The Hunger Games and Game of Thrones has had is enough to turn even the most unequivocal eye-rolling of realists into a dragon-slaying fantasist.

Certainly the coming season is enraptured by the new mood of escapism. There were several collections that drew richly on fantasy and fairy tale, brought to us by the likes of Alexander McQueen, Givenchy and Dolce & Gabbana.

But perhaps what’s more exciting is the threat of feminine allure and its subsequent power. It’s a good time for a gallant heroine – and an important reminder of what happens when she’s underestimated.

Think of the Emmy-winning designer Michele Clapton's dark portrayal of the luminary heroines in Game of Thrones – opulent studded or bejewelled aristocratic outerwear, offset distinctively by some weighty wildling bone armour.

The nipped waists, the ultra-feminine fabrics and the icy (loaded without being threatening) stare – appearance is everything; the choices of clothing rife with symbolism. The common ingredients? Impenetrable strength, femininity and a twist of dark romance.

The mood is almost dreamlike in quality, starting with feathery trims and layer upon layer of fine degrade-dyed (one colour merging into another) chiffon. The key is in mixing bohemianism with elements of plucky heroism.

Intricate coloured embroidery – as seen across the board on the beautiful creations on the runway – works beautifully, partly because the whole thing starts to look vaguely vintage. Dolce & Gabbana enticed us into a forest with a collection that melded historical influences with fantasy – Little Red Riding Hood and Maid Marian were both reference points. Meanwhile, at McQueen, Sarah Burton produced a magical collection based on “wild beauty”, insisting that she was finished with construction, corseting and control.

I’m all for compromise, but here we have a case of more is more. Forget throwing on a gypsy skirt and sandals and letting your hair run free, for there’s a whole lot of work to go into getting the look right. Full and defined eyebrows and dewy, flushed cheeks should be your starting point. This isn’t really boho at all – it’s more about an ethereal, magical quality of homespun detailing and artisanal finishings; a chance to reinvent and dip into the murky pool of escapism.

Plenty of accessories are a must: chunky jewellery with motifs such as feathers or birds work well, as will leather, buttons, beading, fringing and mirrors. You’ll also probably need a cape – preferably one with some very intricate (and expensive) beading work. Hats, leather gloves, chain handbags and patterned or lace tights will be your go-to, as seen at Bottega Veneta, Lanvin, Hermès and Jean Paul Gaultier.

The influential and commanding Khaleesi and her band of merry (wo)men in Game of Thrones wouldn’t give a monkey’s about her choice of clothing – she would see herself above such pedestrian nonsense. It’s a reference, however, that designers will turn to again and again, a bit like the gloriously cool Joan of Arc. Why? For who wants to be the charcoal when we can be the fire? And who doesn’t want to be a slave-liberating, magnetic mother of dragons?

ktrotter@thenational.ae