There’s something magical about haute couture. It’s ageless and limitless, encompassing the fairy-tale ball gowns from our most beautiful fantasies, and the shrouded black guises of our most vivid nightmares.
It’s a time to celebrate intricate fabrics, swanky embellishments and innovative techniques. The designs may be one-of-a-kind and outrageously unaffordable, but what less can you expect from haute couture? Though the autumn/winter 2015 Paris haute couture fashion week opened with some uncertainties, it ended on an optimistic high, our appetites satiated with a seasonal dose of delectable couture.
With the multiplicity of birdcage corsets and bandage-like drapes across chests, Versace’s collection of gowns was more suited to rebellious teen proms and MTV sweet-16 parties than Parisian runways.
The looks were pulled farther into the realm of the juvenile with hair falling in loose, music festival-like waves, girdled by floral wreath headbands. On a brighter note the textiles were gorgeous. Beadwork, metallic chains and sequinned ropes were wrapped into chiffons that were frayed at the hems, giving a grungy, deconstructed feel to a collection sure to be lapped up by the likes of Taylor Swift.
From there, the week only got better, starting with the elegant fluidity shown in the sheer but somehow-not-vulgar designs at Dior. Dresses that could have looked like aged negligees piqued enthusiastic curiosity, while other designs were applauded for striking a rare balance between sultry and conservative. There were also lots of caped coats, with some featuring interesting, intentional oddities. The showstoppers at Giambattista Valli were a lilac tulle gown topped with bright orange three-dimensional flowers, and whimsical tulle skirts with trails, paired with tops of a more boxy nature.
Floral gowns and shift dresses featuring dropped waists, embellished floral vines and feather fringing were paired with tapered pants, while the rest of the collection brought together dreamy cutouts and textures, oriental inspirations and peppy pink and black colour combinations. In typical Elie Saab fashion, icy blues, pistachio greens and pale pinks were embroidered and embellished to create stunning goddess-like gowns, princess dresses and caped jumpsuits.
Fur accents gave a quirky pop, appearing on box clutches and lining the sides of dress bodices. The Cruella de Vils of the world were likely enamoured with Lagerfeld’s haute couture collection for Fendi, which was all about fur – in black, white, grey and even peach. Though styles were impeccable, aside from the occasional leather legging or jacquard kimono-like coat, the textile theme was a bit too repetitive for my liking.
Talent and vision were displayed at Viktor & Rolf, where the show started with 70s-style denim blouses skirted in structured white linens. Soon, it became apparent that models were being clothed in canvas paintings, gold framing included. Forget wearable art – they were wearable masterpieces, making the overall presentation the best part of haute couture fashion week, certainly trumping Kendall Jenner’s white pantsuit bridal finale for Chanel.
hlodi@thenational.ae
COMPANY%20PROFILE
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Types of policy
Term life insurance: this is the cheapest and most-popular form of life cover. You pay a regular monthly premium for a pre-agreed period, typically anything between five and 25 years, or possibly longer. If you die within that time, the policy will pay a cash lump sum, which is typically tax-free even outside the UAE. If you die after the policy ends, you do not get anything in return. There is no cash-in value at any time. Once you stop paying premiums, cover stops.
Whole-of-life insurance: as its name suggests, this type of life cover is designed to run for the rest of your life. You pay regular monthly premiums and in return, get a guaranteed cash lump sum whenever you die. As a result, premiums are typically much higher than one term life insurance, although they do not usually increase with age. In some cases, you have to keep up premiums for as long as you live, although there may be a cut-off period, say, at age 80 but it can go as high as 95. There are penalties if you don’t last the course and you may get a lot less than you paid in.
Critical illness cover: this pays a cash lump sum if you suffer from a serious illness such as cancer, heart disease or stroke. Some policies cover as many as 50 different illnesses, although cancer triggers by far the most claims. The payout is designed to cover major financial responsibilities such as a mortgage or children’s education fees if you fall ill and are unable to work. It is cost effective to combine it with life insurance, with the policy paying out once if you either die or suffer a serious illness.
Income protection: this pays a replacement income if you fall ill and are unable to continue working. On the best policies, this will continue either until you recover, or reach retirement age. Unlike critical illness cover, policies will typically pay out for stress and musculoskeletal problems such as back trouble.
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%3Cp%3EAverage%20amount%20of%20biofuel%20produced%20at%20DIC%20factory%20every%20month%3A%20%3Cstrong%3EApproximately%20106%2C000%20litres%3C%2Fstrong%3E%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3EAmount%20of%20biofuel%20produced%20from%201%20litre%20of%20used%20cooking%20oil%3A%20%3Cstrong%3E920ml%20(92%25)%3C%2Fstrong%3E%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3ETime%20required%20for%20one%20full%20cycle%20of%20production%20from%20used%20cooking%20oil%20to%20biofuel%3A%20%3Cstrong%3EOne%20day%3C%2Fstrong%3E%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3EEnergy%20requirements%20for%20one%20cycle%20of%20production%20from%201%2C000%20litres%20of%20used%20cooking%20oil%3A%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3E%E2%96%AA%20Electricity%20-%201.1904%20units%3Cbr%3E%E2%96%AA%20Water-%2031%20litres%3Cbr%3E%E2%96%AA%20Diesel%20%E2%80%93%2026.275%20litres%3C%2Fstrong%3E%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
Thanksgiving meals to try
World Cut Steakhouse, Habtoor Palace Hotel, Dubai. On Thursday evening, head chef Diego Solis will be serving a high-end sounding four-course meal that features chestnut veloute with smoked duck breast, turkey roulade accompanied by winter vegetables and foie gras and pecan pie, cranberry compote and popcorn ice cream.
Jones the Grocer, various locations across the UAE. Jones’s take-home holiday menu delivers on the favourites: whole roast turkeys, an array of accompaniments (duck fat roast potatoes, sausages wrapped in beef bacon, honey-glazed parsnips and carrots) and more, as well as festive food platters, canapes and both apple and pumpkin pies.
Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse, The Address Hotel, Dubai. This New Orleans-style restaurant is keen to take the stress out of entertaining, so until December 25 you can order a full seasonal meal from its Takeaway Turkey Feast menu, which features turkey, homemade gravy and a selection of sides – think green beans with almond flakes, roasted Brussels sprouts, sweet potato casserole and bread stuffing – to pick up and eat at home.
The Mattar Farm Kitchen, Dubai. From now until Christmas, Hattem Mattar and his team will be producing game- changing smoked turkeys that you can enjoy at home over the festive period.
Nolu’s, The Galleria Mall, Maryah Island Abu Dhabi. With much of the menu focused on a California inspired “farm to table” approach (with Afghani influence), it only seems right that Nolu’s will be serving their take on the Thanksgiving spread, with a brunch at the Downtown location from 12pm to 4pm on Friday.
The smuggler
Eldarir had arrived at JFK in January 2020 with three suitcases, containing goods he valued at $300, when he was directed to a search area.
Officers found 41 gold artefacts among the bags, including amulets from a funerary set which prepared the deceased for the afterlife.
Also found was a cartouche of a Ptolemaic king on a relief that was originally part of a royal building or temple.
The largest single group of items found in Eldarir’s cases were 400 shabtis, or figurines.
Khouli conviction
Khouli smuggled items into the US by making false declarations to customs about the country of origin and value of the items.
According to Immigration and Customs Enforcement, he provided “false provenances which stated that [two] Egyptian antiquities were part of a collection assembled by Khouli's father in Israel in the 1960s” when in fact “Khouli acquired the Egyptian antiquities from other dealers”.
He was sentenced to one year of probation, six months of home confinement and 200 hours of community service in 2012 after admitting buying and smuggling Egyptian antiquities, including coffins, funerary boats and limestone figures.
For sale
A number of other items said to come from the collection of Ezeldeen Taha Eldarir are currently or recently for sale.
Their provenance is described in near identical terms as the British Museum shabti: bought from Salahaddin Sirmali, "authenticated and appraised" by Hossen Rashed, then imported to the US in 1948.
- An Egyptian Mummy mask dating from 700BC-30BC, is on offer for £11,807 ($15,275) online by a seller in Mexico
- A coffin lid dating back to 664BC-332BC was offered for sale by a Colorado-based art dealer, with a starting price of $65,000
- A shabti that was on sale through a Chicago-based coin dealer, dating from 1567BC-1085BC, is up for $1,950
