A wonderland for culture: How Sheikh Zayed Heritage Festival shines a light on traditions old and new


Saeed Saeed
  • English
  • Arabic

There is cold weather and then there is “jou wathbawy".

Meaning Al Wathba weather, this term was coined by friends when referring to the special kind of chill encountered in the suburb on the outskirts of the capital.

A 50-minute drive from the Abu Dhabi Corniche, Al Wathba is home to a varied landscape of desert, residential communities and wetlands.

Most of the year, the area quietly thrives off the spirit of its close-knit communities and ecotourists visiting the wetlands for sunset snaps of flamingos. However, in the winter months, Al Wathba truly comes into its own.

Running until Saturday, February 20 and located on a purpose-built site resembling a fort, Sheikh Zayed Heritage Festival invites not only the country, but indeed the world to Al Wathba for a colourful spectacle packed with international cultural pavilions, eclectic music performances, delicious bites and amusement park rides.

But you need to rug up first.

Jou wathbawy is desert cold – the kind of chill that is tough, probing and unable to be shrugged off with a long-sleeved shirt. Only a jacket or sweater will do when entering the vast complex, after paying a Dh5 ticket fee at one of the numerous entry points.

Mishal Al Mansouri is dressed for the occasion.

Clad in a thick, dark winter kandura and jacket, I find him among an enclave of pavilions when I arrive in the late afternoon.

The area is a purely regional affair with cosy-sized sections dedicated to Lebanon, Jordan and Oman – all home to a number of retailers selling everything from winter jackets, sweaters, rugs, coffee and tea sets to various types of Levant cheeses, olives and spices.

Kalim, a nut vendor at the Afghanistan market at Sheikh Zayed Heritage Festival. Victor Besa / The National
Kalim, a nut vendor at the Afghanistan market at Sheikh Zayed Heritage Festival. Victor Besa / The National

The queen of the block, however, is the Egyptian pavilion, which comes with its own replica of the Great Sphinx of Giza. It acts as a great background to the central stage, which hosts various musical performances and dances throughout the evening.

A Sudanese folk group is playing as Al Mansouri explains why he visits the festival every year.

“It's great to have a festival that is mostly dedicated to tradition and not just shopping," says the Abu Dhabi resident. "Yes, there are things to buy but the spirit is about knowing our culture and those from elsewhere. This is why I take my kids here, so they can have fun and maybe benefit from some knowledge.”

His annual visits also serve a practical purpose.

"We stock up on things for the house," he says. "Some of the furniture you find here you really can't see at the malls. They are traditional and sometimes handmade. So many Emirati families come here to get new things. It is a good chance to upgrade the living room every year."

Stepping back in time

For an insight into the festival’s keen cultural focus, I venture to both the Heritage Village and Al Wathba Souq.

Standing side by side, they are two of the many sections dedicated to Emirati history and traditional practices.

The Heritage Village recreates an Emirati square filled with majlises, stands selling home-made ouds and spices, as well as a falcon display. At the centre is a commanding stage on which a troupe perform the traditional Ayala dance.

Emirati Ayala dancers at the Heritage Village of the Sheikh Zayed Heritage Festival. Victor Besa / The National
Emirati Ayala dancers at the Heritage Village of the Sheikh Zayed Heritage Festival. Victor Besa / The National

A more immersive step back in time, however, is found in the sprawling Al Wathba Souq. Full of snaking paths and alleyways, this place resembles a television set from a historical Emirati drama.

That nostalgia is further accentuated by the local shopkeepers, whose own works are steeped in tradition.

"All of this is made at our farm that's not too far from here," says the Emirati woman – who prefers I call her "auntie" – behind the Yadooh stand.

With products ranging from fresh butter and chami cheese (Emirati cottage cheese) to zaatar, all the items sold are “fresh from the earth and flesh”.

It is the raw cow's milk she urges me to try. Sensing my initial discomfort, auntie's eyes soften as she proposes to drink it in front of me to quell my fears. I take a hearty swig: it is lukewarm, lightly fermented and surprisingly smooth. I buy the small bottle for Dh5.

Not far away is Umm Muhammad at her Al Burqa'a Al Emarat stand, home to a wide selection of oud, perfumes, jewellery and handcrafted Sheikh Zayed medallions.

She explains that the village vibe of the souk is not only cosmetic.

"We all know each other or make the effort to," she says. "All of us ladies greet each other, inquire about our families and ask if we could help in any way."

The festival mosque is replica of the 15th-century Al Badiyah Mosque located in Fujairah. Victor Besa / The National
The festival mosque is replica of the 15th-century Al Badiyah Mosque located in Fujairah. Victor Besa / The National

More Emirati history is found at sunset.

For Al Maghrib prayers, traders and visitors gather at the festival mosque, which is a wonderful replica of the 15th-century Al Badiyah Mosque, named after the small village in Fujairah where it is located.

After the service, we are immediately snapped back to the present, or maybe even the future, with the festival’s signature Emirates Fountain revving into action.

Located within a lagoon at the centre of the festival, the LED tower is home to a dazzling light and laser show which runs frequently throughout the evening.

From Uzbekistan with love

One person not too fussed by the spectacle is Komoliddin Abdullayev.

He doesn’t even notice when I step into his corner stand, so immersed is he in a chess game played on a hand-carved board.

It is one of the many beautiful pieces of art encountered at the Uzbekistan pavilion, easily the most lavish and culturally enriching of the festival.

Komoliddin Abdullayev, right, and a friend plays chess on a handmade board from Uzbekistan at the Sheikh Zayed Heritage Festival. Victor Besa/The National
Komoliddin Abdullayev, right, and a friend plays chess on a handmade board from Uzbekistan at the Sheikh Zayed Heritage Festival. Victor Besa/The National

Abdullayev's Art Anor shop is one of half a dozen decorated stands showcasing the best of the former Soviet bloc country's heritage.

There are secular and religious artworks, national clothing including intricately embodied dresses, tunics and velour pants, and, of course, a stand selling the mighty pichak – a traditional Uzbek knife renowned for its versatile and acute blade.

Putting the chess game on hold, Abdullayev tells me Uzbek art is underrated both at home and abroad.

“We are only beginning to appreciate it now,” he says. “In my country there is a revival of the arts, particularly when it comes to miniatures and engraving. Inshallah, this will become popular internationally one day.”

Uzbek dumplings, known as manti, and kebab skewers are served inside the country's pavilion at the Sheikh Zayed Heritage Festival. Victor Besa / The National
Uzbek dumplings, known as manti, and kebab skewers are served inside the country's pavilion at the Sheikh Zayed Heritage Festival. Victor Besa / The National

What also needs to become more popular is Uzbek food.

The pavilion is home to an authentic kitchen serving traditional meals.

After asking for the chef’s recommendation, myself and two companions share a hearty meal of manti (steamed dumplings with sour cream), Uzbek pilaf (a rich dish cooked in beef stock and topped off with spices, veggies, onions and sultanas) and skewers of lamb, chicken and meat. It is delicious and comes at a cool price of Dh105.

A festival with heart

Satiated and content, I exit the festival convinced it’s one of the UAE's hidden gem.

Al Mansouri, the Emirati family man I met earlier in the day, was spot on. The Sheikh Zayed Heritage Festival’s focus on culture rather than commerce makes all the difference.

While the place is particularly busy and vibrant during the weekends, there is none of the chaotic wheeling and dealing associated with a market place.

Everyone involved, from the performers to the traders, seem to work in unison to preserve and present cultures new and old to a curious crowd.

This all makes for a fascinating evening out … just don’t forget your jacket.

Results

5pm: Al Maha Stables – Maiden (PA) Dh80,000 (Turf) 1,600m; Winner: Reem Baynounah, Fernando Jara (jockey), Mohamed Daggash (trainer)

5.30pm: Wathba Stallions Cup – Maiden (PA) Dh70,000 (T) 1,600m; Winner: AF Afham, Tadhg O’Shea, Ernst Oertel

6pm: Emirates Fillies Classic – Prestige (PA) Dh100,000 (T) 1,600m; Winner: Ghallieah, Sebastien Martino, Jean-Claude Pecout

6.30pm: Emirates Colts Classic – Prestige (PA) Dh100,000 (T) 1,600m; Winner: Yas Xmnsor, Saif Al Balushi, Khalifa Al Neyadi

7pm: The President’s Cup – Group 1 (PA) Dh2,500,000 (T) 2,200m; Winner: Somoud, Adrie de Vries, Jean de Roualle

7.30pm: The President’s Cup – Listed (TB) Dh380,000 (T) 1,400m; Winner: Haqeeqy, Dane O’Neill, John Hyde.

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INFO
Specs

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Power: 659hp
Torque: 1075Nm
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The specs

Engine: four-litre V6 and 3.5-litre V6 twin-turbo

Transmission: six-speed and 10-speed

Power: 271 and 409 horsepower

Torque: 385 and 650Nm

Price: from Dh229,900 to Dh355,000

Teachers' pay - what you need to know

Pay varies significantly depending on the school, its rating and the curriculum. Here's a rough guide as of January 2021:

- top end schools tend to pay Dh16,000-17,000 a month - plus a monthly housing allowance of up to Dh6,000. These tend to be British curriculum schools rated 'outstanding' or 'very good', followed by American schools

- average salary across curriculums and skill levels is about Dh10,000, recruiters say

- it is becoming more common for schools to provide accommodation, sometimes in an apartment block with other teachers, rather than hand teachers a cash housing allowance

- some strong performing schools have cut back on salaries since the pandemic began, sometimes offering Dh16,000 including the housing allowance, which reflects the slump in rental costs, and sheer demand for jobs

- maths and science teachers are most in demand and some schools will pay up to Dh3,000 more than other teachers in recognition of their technical skills

- at the other end of the market, teachers in some Indian schools, where fees are lower and competition among applicants is intense, can be paid as low as Dh3,000 per month

- in Indian schools, it has also become common for teachers to share residential accommodation, living in a block with colleagues

The specs

AT4 Ultimate, as tested

Engine: 6.2-litre V8

Power: 420hp

Torque: 623Nm

Transmission: 10-speed automatic

Price: From Dh330,800 (Elevation: Dh236,400; AT4: Dh286,800; Denali: Dh345,800)

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Game Of Thrones Season Seven: A Bluffers Guide

Want to sound on message about the biggest show on television without actually watching it? Best not to get locked into the labyrinthine tales of revenge and royalty: as Isaac Hempstead Wright put it, all you really need to know from now on is that there’s going to be a huge fight between humans and the armies of undead White Walkers.

The season ended with a dragon captured by the Night King blowing apart the huge wall of ice that separates the human world from its less appealing counterpart. Not that some of the humans in Westeros have been particularly appealing, either.

Anyway, the White Walkers are now free to cause any kind of havoc they wish, and as Liam Cunningham told us: “Westeros may be zombie land after the Night King has finished.” If the various human factions don’t put aside their differences in season 8, we could be looking at The Walking Dead: The Medieval Years

 

The smuggler

Eldarir had arrived at JFK in January 2020 with three suitcases, containing goods he valued at $300, when he was directed to a search area.
Officers found 41 gold artefacts among the bags, including amulets from a funerary set which prepared the deceased for the afterlife.
Also found was a cartouche of a Ptolemaic king on a relief that was originally part of a royal building or temple. 
The largest single group of items found in Eldarir’s cases were 400 shabtis, or figurines.

Khouli conviction

Khouli smuggled items into the US by making false declarations to customs about the country of origin and value of the items.
According to Immigration and Customs Enforcement, he provided “false provenances which stated that [two] Egyptian antiquities were part of a collection assembled by Khouli's father in Israel in the 1960s” when in fact “Khouli acquired the Egyptian antiquities from other dealers”.
He was sentenced to one year of probation, six months of home confinement and 200 hours of community service in 2012 after admitting buying and smuggling Egyptian antiquities, including coffins, funerary boats and limestone figures.

For sale

A number of other items said to come from the collection of Ezeldeen Taha Eldarir are currently or recently for sale.
Their provenance is described in near identical terms as the British Museum shabti: bought from Salahaddin Sirmali, "authenticated and appraised" by Hossen Rashed, then imported to the US in 1948.

- An Egyptian Mummy mask dating from 700BC-30BC, is on offer for £11,807 ($15,275) online by a seller in Mexico

- A coffin lid dating back to 664BC-332BC was offered for sale by a Colorado-based art dealer, with a starting price of $65,000

- A shabti that was on sale through a Chicago-based coin dealer, dating from 1567BC-1085BC, is up for $1,950

Volvo ES90 Specs

Engine: Electric single motor (96kW), twin motor (106kW) and twin motor performance (106kW)

Power: 333hp, 449hp, 680hp

Torque: 480Nm, 670Nm, 870Nm

On sale: Later in 2025 or early 2026, depending on region

Price: Exact regional pricing TBA

UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
HEADLINE HERE
  • I would recommend writing out the text in the body 
  • And then copy into this box
  • It can be as long as you link
  • But I recommend you use the bullet point function (see red square)
  • Or try to keep the word count down
  • Be wary of other embeds lengthy fact boxes could crash into 
  • That's about it

Director: Jon Favreau

Starring: Donald Glover, Seth Rogen, John Oliver

Rating: 2 out of 5 stars

What is graphene?

Graphene is a single layer of carbon atoms arranged like honeycomb.

It was discovered in 2004, when Russian-born Manchester scientists Andrei Geim and Kostya Novoselov were "playing about" with sticky tape and graphite - the material used as "lead" in pencils.

Placing the tape on the graphite and peeling it, they managed to rip off thin flakes of carbon. In the beginning they got flakes consisting of many layers of graphene. But as they repeated the process many times, the flakes got thinner.

By separating the graphite fragments repeatedly, they managed to create flakes that were just one atom thick. Their experiment had led to graphene being isolated for the very first time.

At the time, many believed it was impossible for such thin crystalline materials to be stable. But examined under a microscope, the material remained stable, and when tested was found to have incredible properties.

It is many times times stronger than steel, yet incredibly lightweight and flexible. It is electrically and thermally conductive but also transparent. The world's first 2D material, it is one million times thinner than the diameter of a single human hair.

But the 'sticky tape' method would not work on an industrial scale. Since then, scientists have been working on manufacturing graphene, to make use of its incredible properties.

In 2010, Geim and Novoselov were awarded the Nobel Prize for Physics. Their discovery meant physicists could study a new class of two-dimensional materials with unique properties. 

 

Ferrari 12Cilindri specs

Engine: naturally aspirated 6.5-liter V12

Power: 819hp

Torque: 678Nm at 7,250rpm

Price: From Dh1,700,000

Available: Now

Avengers: Endgame

Directors: Anthony Russo, Joe Russo

Starring: Robert Downey Jr, Chris Evans, Scarlett Johansson, Chris Hemsworth, Josh Brolin

4/5 stars 

Getting there
Flydubai flies direct from Dubai to Tbilisi from Dh1,025 return including taxes

Overview

Cricket World Cup League Two: Nepal, Oman, United States tri-series, Tribhuvan University, Kathmandu

Fixtures
Wednesday February 5, Oman v Nepal
Thursday, February 6, Oman v United States
Saturday, February 8, United States v Nepal
Sunday, February 9, Oman v Nepal
Tuesday, February 11, Oman v United States
Wednesday, February 12, United States v Nepal

What is Reform?

Reform is a right-wing, populist party led by Nigel Farage, a former MEP who won a seat in the House of Commons last year at his eighth attempt and a prominent figure in the campaign for the UK to leave the European Union.

It was founded in 2018 and originally called the Brexit Party.

Many of its members previously belonged to UKIP or the mainstream Conservatives.

After Brexit took place, the party focused on the reformation of British democracy.

Former Tory deputy chairman Lee Anderson became its first MP after defecting in March 2024.

The party gained support from Elon Musk, and had hoped the tech billionaire would make a £100m donation. However, Mr Musk changed his mind and called for Mr Farage to step down as leader in a row involving the US tycoon's support for far-right figurehead Tommy Robinson who is in prison for contempt of court.

Company Profile

Name: JustClean

Based: Kuwait with offices in other GCC countries

Launch year: 2016

Number of employees: 130

Sector: online laundry service

Funding: $12.9m from Kuwait-based Faith Capital Holding

Company Fact Box

Company name/date started: Abwaab Technologies / September 2019

Founders: Hamdi Tabbaa, co-founder and CEO. Hussein Alsarabi, co-founder and CTO

Based: Amman, Jordan

Sector: Education Technology

Size (employees/revenue): Total team size: 65. Full-time employees: 25. Revenue undisclosed

Stage: early-stage startup 

Investors: Adam Tech Ventures, Endure Capital, Equitrust, the World Bank-backed Innovative Startups SMEs Fund, a London investment fund, a number of former and current executives from Uber and Netflix, among others.

Red flags
  • Promises of high, fixed or 'guaranteed' returns.
  • Unregulated structured products or complex investments often used to bypass traditional safeguards.
  • Lack of clear information, vague language, no access to audited financials.
  • Overseas companies targeting investors in other jurisdictions - this can make legal recovery difficult.
  • Hard-selling tactics - creating urgency, offering 'exclusive' deals.

Courtesy: Carol Glynn, founder of Conscious Finance Coaching

What sanctions would be reimposed?

Under ‘snapback’, measures imposed on Iran by the UN Security Council in six resolutions would be restored, including:

  • An arms embargo
  • A ban on uranium enrichment and reprocessing
  • A ban on launches and other activities with ballistic missiles capable of delivering nuclear weapons, as well as ballistic missile technology transfer and technical assistance
  • A targeted global asset freeze and travel ban on Iranian individuals and entities
  • Authorisation for countries to inspect Iran Air Cargo and Islamic Republic of Iran Shipping Lines cargoes for banned goods
GAC GS8 Specs

Engine: 2.0-litre 4cyl turbo

Power: 248hp at 5,200rpm

Torque: 400Nm at 1,750-4,000rpm

Transmission: 8-speed auto

Fuel consumption: 9.1L/100km

On sale: Now

Price: From Dh149,900

UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
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Global state-owned investor ranking by size

1.

United States

2.

China

3.

UAE

4.

Japan

5

Norway

6.

Canada

7.

Singapore

8.

Australia

9.

Saudi Arabia

10.

South Korea

The specs
 
Engine: 3.0-litre six-cylinder turbo
Power: 398hp from 5,250rpm
Torque: 580Nm at 1,900-4,800rpm
Transmission: Eight-speed auto
Fuel economy, combined: 6.5L/100km
On sale: December
Price: From Dh330,000 (estimate)