Chafa Ghaddar, a Lebanese artist who lives in Dubai with her husband and baby, has an unlikely passion: frescoes.
“They give me goosebumps,” she says, effusively.
Fresco paintings are those in which paint is applied directly to the wall, rather than a canvas, while the plaster on the wall is still wet. (The name of the process comes from Italian for "fresh.") They are best known from the Renaissance in Italy – Michelangelo's work on the Sistine Chapel ceiling, where Adam is reaching out his hand towards God is made in fresco.
The style is found throughout the world across time periods, in depictions of the Buddha in Indian caves, in Byzantine icons throughout the Mediterranean region and in the revolutionary paintings of the Mexican muralists of the early 20th century.
Ghaddar’s interest in the technique starts with the near magic of its chemical process – that, as she puts it, “colour is only activated and stabilised through water”. The application of the pigment on the wet plaster causes a chemical reaction, and when the mortar dries, the pigment is locked inside the surface. The resulting paintings are extremely durable: the colours and lines of fresco painting are still vivid hundreds of years after they were first laid down.
Although fresco remains known mostly as a Renaissance technique, Ghaddar says, “if you go back to the origins, this idea of stabilising natural colour pigments on the wall can go back to the very first human being – they are the first gestures”.
Ghaddar was introduced to the form while working on commercial decoration projects after graduating from the Academie Libanaise des Beaux Arts in Beirut in 2009. While painting motifs in private houses, restaurants and bars, she grew fascinated by working with layers of material on walls. She travelled to Florence to learn the classics of the fresco technique, and returned to Beirut to adapt it to contemporary forms.
I'm infused with love and passion and respect for this technique. But at the same time, I have the complete freedom to trick it, to play with it, to problematise it and to criticise it – because for me, it's a field
Now, in a solo show, Recesses, to be exhibited at Tashkeel in Dubai from Tuesday, September 22 until October, she will dissect the elements of the practice in a series of sculptures, as well as a sound work and video, zeroing in on the particular temporality and processes of fresco making.
“There is a certain way of doing it, especially if you are following it by the rule of the Italian schools,” she says.
“Here, for the first time, I’m trying to experience fresco, but also talk about it, distancing a little bit from the chemistry as we know it classically. How can you talk about sand, pavement, desired colour, flesh, skin, ruin and the agency of materials, without having to be literally bonded to the material itself?
“I’m infused with love and passion and respect for this technique. But at the same time, I have the complete freedom to trick it, to play with it, to problematise it and to criticise it – because for me, it’s a field. It’s not about the need to create a correct fresco, but it’s something that evokes emotions and ideas and questions.”
Recesses begins by imagining frescoes if they were taken down from the wall. Ghaddar will show seven canvas works, for which she has performed the fresco technique on layers of fabric, laying down plaster, pigment, acrylic paint and varnish – typical materials for her murals – day by day. The works appear almost as sculptural objects, weighed down by the materials and labour she expends on them.
The rhythm of her work also refers to another key aspect of frescoes: the giornata, Italian for "a day's work". Because frescoes have to be made while the plaster is still wet, artists work in temporal blocks to accomplish the whole scene, plotting it out in chunks that can be accomplished within a day's work.
Ghaddar demonstrates this concept by including different areas of colour, patterns or textures on the canvas, so that each day is visually separate. One day, the blue pigment is applied in light washes, with the beige of the canvas barely tinted by the deep-blue colour. In another segment, it feels saturated, as if Ghaddar dipped the cloth in blue pigment and let it sit there overnight.
The long historical heritage of the fresco is made possible by the art form's durability. The decisions made in the first hours of a painting's application can have consequences that outlast the human lifespan. When Ghaddar says she "tricks" the technique, she means it literally – at times she applies pigment to the wall secco or when the plaster is dry – a ruse, she says, also used by Renaissance artists. "Sometimes, the artists would trick their commissioners – you know, they would lie," she explains.
“It’s only now with contemporary research that we are able to know which painting was a fresco and which was a secco.
“It depends on how fast you are working because the faster you work, the more humidity there is, and the more the layers bind to each other and guarantee a strong and a good chemical reaction.
“If one of your layers dries, maybe the next one will not sit properly – and so maybe it will fall in the next 400 years instead of falling after 1,000 years.”
Environmental conditions play a large role in a fresco’s durability. When Ghaddar moved to Dubai four years ago, she had to create her materials anew.
“It was a complete failure,” she says of the first fresco she attempted in the UAE. The pigment would not stick to the wood, which she was using as a base, and the entire painting fell off.
Unlike in Italy or other western countries, she says, few places in the Middle East sell fresco materials ready-made, as the tradition has not been as strong in the region.
In Beirut, she made her own base and plaster with the help of a local chemist. But the materials did not hold up in Dubai, because of the different heat and humidity levels, and so she had to start from scratch.
A selection of the works made from this new composition are on display as part Recesses. The Tashkeel show is the result of another process, too: the Critical Practice Programme, the equivalent of a master's programme at the art space that Ghaddar attended over the past two years.
She worked with two mentors, writer Kevin Jones and artist Jill Magi, who teaches at New York University Abu Dhabi, to refine her ideas, which culminated in the solo exhibition.
“With their help, I was able to really shift my ideas around materiality and my fascination with surfaces,” she says. “I brought it further into a body of work that challenges frescoes, and is a little more gritty and questions things a bit more.”
Chafa Ghaddar’s Recesses is at Tashkeel, Dubai, from Tuesday, September 22 to Friday, October 25
MATCH INFO
Rugby World Cup (all times UAE)
Final: England v South Africa, Saturday, 1pm
Benefits of first-time home buyers' scheme
- Priority access to new homes from participating developers
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How much do leading UAE’s UK curriculum schools charge for Year 6?
- Nord Anglia International School (Dubai) – Dh85,032
- Kings School Al Barsha (Dubai) – Dh71,905
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*Annual tuition fees covering the 2024/2025 academic year
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Director: Sriram Raghavan
Producer: Matchbox Pictures, Viacom18
Cast: Ayushmann Khurrana, Tabu, Radhika Apte, Anil Dhawan
Rating: 3.5/5
The years Ramadan fell in May
The smuggler
Eldarir had arrived at JFK in January 2020 with three suitcases, containing goods he valued at $300, when he was directed to a search area.
Officers found 41 gold artefacts among the bags, including amulets from a funerary set which prepared the deceased for the afterlife.
Also found was a cartouche of a Ptolemaic king on a relief that was originally part of a royal building or temple.
The largest single group of items found in Eldarir’s cases were 400 shabtis, or figurines.
Khouli conviction
Khouli smuggled items into the US by making false declarations to customs about the country of origin and value of the items.
According to Immigration and Customs Enforcement, he provided “false provenances which stated that [two] Egyptian antiquities were part of a collection assembled by Khouli's father in Israel in the 1960s” when in fact “Khouli acquired the Egyptian antiquities from other dealers”.
He was sentenced to one year of probation, six months of home confinement and 200 hours of community service in 2012 after admitting buying and smuggling Egyptian antiquities, including coffins, funerary boats and limestone figures.
For sale
A number of other items said to come from the collection of Ezeldeen Taha Eldarir are currently or recently for sale.
Their provenance is described in near identical terms as the British Museum shabti: bought from Salahaddin Sirmali, "authenticated and appraised" by Hossen Rashed, then imported to the US in 1948.
- An Egyptian Mummy mask dating from 700BC-30BC, is on offer for £11,807 ($15,275) online by a seller in Mexico
- A coffin lid dating back to 664BC-332BC was offered for sale by a Colorado-based art dealer, with a starting price of $65,000
- A shabti that was on sale through a Chicago-based coin dealer, dating from 1567BC-1085BC, is up for $1,950
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
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Zayed Sustainability Prize
EPL's youngest
- Ethan Nwaneri (Arsenal)
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The specs
AT4 Ultimate, as tested
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Essentials
The flights: You can fly from the UAE to Iceland with one stop in Europe with a variety of airlines. Return flights with Emirates from Dubai to Stockholm, then Icelandair to Reykjavik, cost from Dh4,153 return. The whole trip takes 11 hours. British Airways flies from Abu Dhabi and Dubai to Reykjavik, via London, with return flights taking 12 hours and costing from Dh2,490 return, including taxes.
The activities: A half-day Silfra snorkelling trip costs 14,990 Icelandic kronur (Dh544) with Dive.is. Inside the Volcano also takes half a day and costs 42,000 kronur (Dh1,524). The Jokulsarlon small-boat cruise lasts about an hour and costs 9,800 kronur (Dh356). Into the Glacier costs 19,500 kronur (Dh708). It lasts three to four hours.
The tours: It’s often better to book a tailor-made trip through a specialist operator. UK-based Discover the World offers seven nights, self-driving, across the island from £892 (Dh4,505) per person. This includes three nights’ accommodation at Hotel Husafell near Into the Glacier, two nights at Hotel Ranga and two nights at the Icelandair Hotel Klaustur. It includes car rental, plus an iPad with itinerary and tourist information pre-loaded onto it, while activities can be booked as optional extras. More information inspiredbyiceland.com
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The years Ramadan fell in May
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UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
UPI facts
More than 2.2 million Indian tourists arrived in UAE in 2023
More than 3.5 million Indians reside in UAE
Indian tourists can make purchases in UAE using rupee accounts in India through QR-code-based UPI real-time payment systems
Indian residents in UAE can use their non-resident NRO and NRE accounts held in Indian banks linked to a UAE mobile number for UPI transactions
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Fuel consumption: 6.9L/100km
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Price: From Dh117,059
BMW M5 specs
Engine: 4.4-litre twin-turbo V-8 petrol enging with additional electric motor
Power: 727hp
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Price: From Dh650,000
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
'Project Power'
Stars: Jamie Foxx, Joseph Gordon-Levitt, Dominique Fishback
Director: Henry Joost and Ariel Schulman
Rating: 3.5/5
Killing of Qassem Suleimani
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The specs
Engine: 3.9-litre twin-turbo V8
Power: 620hp from 5,750-7,500rpm
Torque: 760Nm from 3,000-5,750rpm
Transmission: Eight-speed dual-clutch auto
On sale: Now
Price: From Dh1.05 million ($286,000)
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The specs: 2017 Ford F-150 Raptor
Price, base / as tested Dh220,000 / Dh320,000
Engine 3.5L V6
Transmission 10-speed automatic
Power 421hp @ 6,000rpm
Torque 678Nm @ 3,750rpm
Fuel economy, combined 14.1L / 100km
Dhadak 2
Director: Shazia Iqbal
Starring: Siddhant Chaturvedi, Triptii Dimri
Rating: 1/5
Volvo ES90 Specs
Engine: Electric single motor (96kW), twin motor (106kW) and twin motor performance (106kW)
Power: 333hp, 449hp, 680hp
Torque: 480Nm, 670Nm, 870Nm
On sale: Later in 2025 or early 2026, depending on region
Price: Exact regional pricing TBA
LEAGUE CUP QUARTER-FINAL DRAW
Stoke City v Tottenham
Brentford v Newcastle United
Arsenal v Manchester City
Everton v Manchester United
All ties are to be played the week commencing December 21.
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