Iraqi artist Wijdan Al Majed is transforming Baghdad's concrete jungle into a colour-filled city with murals depicting well-known figures from the war-scarred country and abroad.
Perched on a scaffold at a busy intersection, the Baghdad College of Fine Arts artist and instructor is adding final touches to a mural dedicated to celebrated Iraqi poet, Muzzafar Al Nawab.
Peasant women in traditional dress adorn the background of the mural, commissioned by Baghdad mayor Alaa Maan.
He launched the initiative nine months ago in a bid to "bring beauty to the city and move art to the streets to get rid of the grey and dusty colours" that hang over Baghdad.
Majed, 49, an artist more accustomed to exhibiting her work in the cosy and reflective settings of galleries, at first had helpers to create the street art.
But she has turned to working alone, undaunted by the "huge challenges" she faces as a woman in a largely conservative, male-dominated society.
"Sometimes I work late into the night," said Majed, wearing jeans and shoes splattered with paint.
"The street is scary at night, and it's not easy for a woman to be out so late," she said.
Motorists and passers-by often slow down or stop to watch the woman on her scaffold, paintbrush in hand and hard at work.
'Iraqis have accepted me'
Disparaging comments are sometimes fired her way.
"I learn to live with it and ignore them," she said.
"People have become used to seeing a woman paint. Iraqi society has accepted me."
Many Iraqis are happily surprised by the transformation of their capital.
"This is the most beautiful Muzaffar," a motorist shouted as he drove past Majed, while she touched up the poet's mural.
Nicknamed the "revolutionary poet", Muzaffar Al Nawab, who spent years in jail for writing about successive repressive regimes in Iraq, holds a special place in the hearts of many Iraqis.
At least 16 murals have been painted across Baghdad, with one devoted to Jawad Salim, considered the father of Iraqi modern art and a celebrated sculptor, and another to the late, world-famous Iraqi-British architect, Zaha Hadid.
German sociologist Max Weber and Catholic saint Mother Teresa are among the foreigners celebrated on Baghdad's new murals.
Maan, an architect by profession, chooses the subjects which Majed paints in vivid colours — a jarring contrast with the rest of the city.
'Bringing joy' to the city
Baghdad's infrastructure was destroyed by a 13-year international embargo against the regime of late dictator Saddam Hussein, the 2003 US-led invasion that toppled him and the subsequent years of sectarian violence, culminating in the rise and fall of ISIS.
Maan acknowledges that much needs to be done to rehabilitate the city, which once stood as a beacon of Arab culture but now struggles like most of Iraq with corruption and mismanagement.
"The city is the first victim; any problem elsewhere in the country is reflected here," Maan said.
"When unemployment soars, you will see street vendors... and when the housing crisis flares, slums emerge."
Graffiti covers many buildings and facades in Baghdad — including political messages dating back to bloody anti-government protests that rocked the country for months from late 2019.
Cables from private electricity generators — desperately needed to make up for chronic power cuts — add to the disfigurement of the capital.
For Majed, painting murals "brings joy" across the city of nine million people.
In the teeming Al Sadriya neighbourhood, known for its market, a mural depicting two men selling watermelons has won hearts.
"This is a slice of Baghdad's heritage," said textile merchant Fadel Abu Ali, 63.
The mural is a reproduction of a work by late artist Hafidh Al Droubi, who often portrayed Baghdad daily life.
Islamophobia definition
A widely accepted definition was made by the All Party Parliamentary Group on British Muslims in 2019: “Islamophobia is rooted in racism and is a type of racism that targets expressions of Muslimness or perceived Muslimness.” It further defines it as “inciting hatred or violence against Muslims”.
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Biography
Favourite book: Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance
Holiday choice: Anything Disney-related
Proudest achievement: Receiving a presidential award for foreign services.
Family: Wife and three children.
Like motto: You always get what you ask for, the universe listens.
The essentials
What: Emirates Airline Festival of Literature
When: Friday until March 9
Where: All main sessions are held in the InterContinental Dubai Festival City
Price: Sessions range from free entry to Dh125 tickets, with the exception of special events.
Hot Tip: If waiting for your book to be signed looks like it will be timeconsuming, ask the festival’s bookstore if they have pre-signed copies of the book you’re looking for. They should have a bunch from some of the festival’s biggest guest authors.
Information: www.emirateslitfest.com
Countries recognising Palestine
France, UK, Canada, Australia, Portugal, Belgium, Malta, Luxembourg, San Marino and Andorra
UPI facts
More than 2.2 million Indian tourists arrived in UAE in 2023
More than 3.5 million Indians reside in UAE
Indian tourists can make purchases in UAE using rupee accounts in India through QR-code-based UPI real-time payment systems
Indian residents in UAE can use their non-resident NRO and NRE accounts held in Indian banks linked to a UAE mobile number for UPI transactions
West Asia Premiership
Dubai Hurricanes 58-10 Dubai Knights Eagles
Dubai Tigers 5-39 Bahrain
Jebel Ali Dragons 16-56 Abu Dhabi Harlequins
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THE BIO
Born: Mukalla, Yemen, 1979
Education: UAE University, Al Ain
Family: Married with two daughters: Asayel, 7, and Sara, 6
Favourite piece of music: Horse Dance by Naseer Shamma
Favourite book: Science and geology
Favourite place to travel to: Washington DC
Best advice you’ve ever been given: If you have a dream, you have to believe it, then you will see it.
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The biog
Name: Abeer Al Bah
Born: 1972
Husband: Emirati lawyer Salem Bin Sahoo, since 1992
Children: Soud, born 1993, lawyer; Obaid, born 1994, deceased; four other boys and one girl, three months old
Education: BA in Elementary Education, worked for five years in a Dubai school
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Employment lawyer Meriel Schindler of Withers Worldwide shares her tips on achieving equal pay
Do your homework
Make sure that you are being offered a fair salary. There is lots of industry data available, and you can always talk to people who have come out of the organisation. Where I see people coming a cropper is where they haven’t done their homework.
Don’t be afraid to negotiate
It’s quite standard to negotiate if you think an offer is on the low side. The job is unlikely to be withdrawn if you ask for money, and if that did happen I’d question whether you want to work for an employer who is so hypersensitive.
Know your worth
Women tend to be a bit more reticent to talk about their achievements. In my experience they need to have more confidence in their own abilities – men will big up what they’ve done to get a pay rise, and to compete women need to turn up the volume.
Work together
If you suspect men in your organisation are being paid more, look your boss in the eye and say, “I want you to assure me that I’m paid equivalent to my peers”. If you’re not getting a straight answer, talk to your peer group and consider taking direct action to fix inequality.
