The Headgear Gallery contains 300 vibrant accessories from across India. Photo: Maharaja Fateh Singh Museum
The Headgear Gallery contains 300 vibrant accessories from across India. Photo: Maharaja Fateh Singh Museum
The Headgear Gallery contains 300 vibrant accessories from across India. Photo: Maharaja Fateh Singh Museum
The Headgear Gallery contains 300 vibrant accessories from across India. Photo: Maharaja Fateh Singh Museum

Exploring India's history of hierarchy through its many hats


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Nestled within the dazzling Lakshmi Vilas Palace in Vadodara, Gujarat, a 200-hectare royal residential complex four times the size of Buckingham Palace, is the Maharaja Fateh Singh Museum.

Once the official residence of Gujarat’s illustrious Gaekwad family, the 19th century mansion today houses rare works belonging to the royal household’s personal collection.

It features European Renaissance and Rococo paintings, portraits, marble busts and more than 30 original paintings by celebrated Indian artist Raja Ravi Varma, as well as artefacts from across the world, including Chinese and Japanese porcelain displayed over two floors.

Adding to the visual enchantment is a fully functional toy train – the world’s smallest locomotive engine, once owned by a Gaekwad prince – kept in the sprawling gardens.

However, the museum’s most fascinating section is its Headgear Gallery – a staggering collection of 300 vibrant pieces of headwear from different Indian states including Gujarat, Rajasthan, Madhya Pradesh and Maharashtra. Known variously as feta, pugree, safa or topi in local languages, they were collected by the late Maharaja Ranjitsinh Gaekwad, Vadodara’s titular head from 1988 to 2012, during his sojourns.

Among the exhibits is a rare turban worn by the Gaekwad kings, made from 38 metres of cloth, encrusted with pearls and semi-precious gems; a humble cotton topi (cap) of a medieval tamashagir (street performer) as well as ceremonial headgear of the royal bridegrooms. A pugree of the Chouhan groom from Rajasthan with a triangular pointed shape is embellished with four long, knitted tassels.

The collection also demonstrates a wide range of fabrics and techniques used in crafting the headwear. Silk, cotton, satin as well as plant fibres, have been employed as well as sundry crafting techniques, further highlighting the artistic ingenuity behind each piece. These include the use of the sophisticated Bandhani and Muthra criss-cross tie dye methods as well as Kuchhi and gold Zardozi embroidery.

Manda Hingurao, the Headgear Gallery’s curator, tells The National: “The gallery project was initiated by Maharaja Ranjitsinh Gaekwad in the 1980s and took years of research and curation.

Manda Hingurao, the Headgear Gallery’s curator, explores the exhibition. Photo: Maharaja Fateh Singh Museum
Manda Hingurao, the Headgear Gallery’s curator, explores the exhibition. Photo: Maharaja Fateh Singh Museum

“So passionate was the maharaja about the semiotics of headgear that he even undertook an extensive doctoral research on this topic. The gallery was opened to the public in 2015 in his memory after he passed away in 2012. Apart from national and international tourists, we’re also attracting footfall from academics and researchers.”

India has perhaps the most eclectic headgear in the world, with different communities and states having their own signature ones. From the Rajputs to the Mughals, and the Sikhs to the Marathas, each community wore variegated headwear further influenced by local customs, religions, topography and climate.

They were also colour coded with different hues and fabrics, conveying the social hierarchies. While the aristocrats’ headgear were embellished with lavish beads and baubles, the commoners wore basic pugrees made from cotton without ornamentation.

Milind E Awad, associate professor at the School of Language Literature and Culture Studies, Jawaharlal University, New Delhi, says apart from being a fashion statement, Indian headgear is also imbued with symbolism.

Awad explains: “It played a vital role in medieval times because it was a social statement and used for caste hierarchisation. For instance, the agrarian castes’ pugrees were very different from the elite ones worn by the Brahmins – which basically underscored the former’s low place in society. Each royal dynasty had a special headgear with the cloth, colour and its baubles signifying several things, including the official rank and pedigree.”

A red headgear with a smoking pipe, mirror, comb and tobacco pouch tucked in the headgear worn by the male members of Gawariya Nomadic tribe. Photo: Maharaja Fateh Singh Museum
A red headgear with a smoking pipe, mirror, comb and tobacco pouch tucked in the headgear worn by the male members of Gawariya Nomadic tribe. Photo: Maharaja Fateh Singh Museum

The gallery’s exhibits also spotlight Indian sartorial history and royal quirks. For instance, the famous Gaekwad family pugree has a rounded point jutting out at the back, while the flat front features horizontal twisted bands. However, the biggest pugrees in the collection belong to the twin Rajasthani cities of Jaipur and Udaipur and weighed several kilograms.

Traditionally, every caste and sub-caste flaunted a distinct style of headwear that became a symbol of their community identity, elaborates Hingurao. “For example, the Puneri Pagdi was worn by the Maharashtrian Brahmins while the Kasabi Pagdi adorned the heads of wealthy Jains, the Vaishnav Kapol banias (merchants) as well as the diplomats. We also have headgears worn by the shepherds, the Parsees, Muslims and tribal communities, reflecting India’s cultural diversity.”

Then there are the bridal pugrees, aesthetically showcased in teak almirahs with transparent glass, a presentation befitting the pomp and ceremony synonymous with large Indian weddings. The Gaekwadi pugree, which required 21 metres of cloth was first dyed and then embellished with precious stones.

“It would take weeks to make these because the maharajas were pernickety about their headgear. Such was the importance accorded to the purgree that only a special community called Pagribands were trusted with making them. A well-crafted pugree earned appreciation from the king,” adds Hingurao.

As important as the crafting of the turbans was its styling. The Gawariya style, the 18-metre Pag for instance was worn by the Gawariya Nomadic tribesmen. It was kept big, explains Hingurao, because the itinerant men tucked their accessories like their smoking pipe, mirror, comb and tobacco pouch into it.

“The headdress took 20 minutes to be wrapped around the head, for which two pieces of clothes were used. One for framing the head and the second for styling,” she concludes.

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Starring: Idris Elba, Caleb McLaughlin, Jharrel Jerome

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One in nine do not have enough to eat

Created in 1961, the World Food Programme is pledged to fight hunger worldwide as well as providing emergency food assistance in a crisis.

One of the organisation’s goals is the Zero Hunger Pledge, adopted by the international community in 2015 as one of the 17 Sustainable Goals for Sustainable Development, to end world hunger by 2030.

The WFP, a branch of the United Nations, is funded by voluntary donations from governments, businesses and private donations.

Almost two thirds of its operations currently take place in conflict zones, where it is calculated that people are more than three times likely to suffer from malnutrition than in peaceful countries.

It is currently estimated that one in nine people globally do not have enough to eat.

On any one day, the WFP estimates that it has 5,000 lorries, 20 ships and 70 aircraft on the move.

Outside emergencies, the WFP provides school meals to up to 25 million children in 63 countries, while working with communities to improve nutrition. Where possible, it buys supplies from developing countries to cut down transport cost and boost local economies.

 

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Engine: twin-turbocharged 3.5-liter V6

Power: 450hp

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New UK refugee system

 

  • A new “core protection” for refugees moving from permanent to a more basic, temporary protection
  • Shortened leave to remain - refugees will receive 30 months instead of five years
  • A longer path to settlement with no indefinite settled status until a refugee has spent 20 years in Britain
  • To encourage refugees to integrate the government will encourage them to out of the core protection route wherever possible.
  • Under core protection there will be no automatic right to family reunion
  • Refugees will have a reduced right to public funds
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MATCH INFO

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Bayern Munich v Real Madrid

When: April 25, 10.45pm kick-off (UAE)
Where: Allianz Arena, Munich
Live: BeIN Sports HD
Second leg: May 1, Santiago Bernabeu, Madrid

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Martin Sabbagh profile

Job: CEO JCDecaux Middle East

In the role: Since January 2015

Lives: In the UAE

Background: M&A, investment banking

Studied: Corporate finance

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The biog

Favourite film: Motorcycle Dairies, Monsieur Hulot’s Holiday, Kagemusha

Favourite book: One Hundred Years of Solitude

Holiday destination: Sri Lanka

First car: VW Golf

Proudest achievement: Building Robotics Labs at Khalifa University and King’s College London, Daughters

Driverless cars or drones: Driverless Cars

The five pillars of Islam

1. Fasting 

2. Prayer 

3. Hajj 

4. Shahada 

5. Zakat 

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Tori Amos
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Timeline

2012-2015

The company offers payments/bribes to win key contracts in the Middle East

May 2017

The UK SFO officially opens investigation into Petrofac’s use of agents, corruption, and potential bribery to secure contracts

September 2021

Petrofac pleads guilty to seven counts of failing to prevent bribery under the UK Bribery Act

October 2021

Court fines Petrofac £77 million for bribery. Former executive receives a two-year suspended sentence 

December 2024

Petrofac enters into comprehensive restructuring to strengthen the financial position of the group

May 2025

The High Court of England and Wales approves the company’s restructuring plan

July 2025

The Court of Appeal issues a judgment challenging parts of the restructuring plan

August 2025

Petrofac issues a business update to execute the restructuring and confirms it will appeal the Court of Appeal decision

October 2025

Petrofac loses a major TenneT offshore wind contract worth €13 billion. Holding company files for administration in the UK. Petrofac delisted from the London Stock Exchange

November 2025

180 Petrofac employees laid off in the UAE

While you're here
The biog

First Job: Abu Dhabi Department of Petroleum in 1974  
Current role: Chairperson of Al Maskari Holding since 2008
Career high: Regularly cited on Forbes list of 100 most powerful Arab Businesswomen
Achievement: Helped establish Al Maskari Medical Centre in 1969 in Abu Dhabi’s Western Region
Future plan: Will now concentrate on her charitable work

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Long read

Mageed Yahia, director of WFP in UAE: Coronavirus knows no borders, and neither should the response

Updated: May 30, 2023, 6:13 AM